Out of the Roads Again

The randomness of the road always excites my senses…

The Return to El Nido

Dusk at Baker’s Hill!

That same feeling of adventure hit me again, the innate wonder of the unknown whether it’s one new place or revisiting an old one. So, the same principle of hitting more birds with one stone was the strategy. The work trip in Puerto Princesa last February was a good opportunity, even with lot of work issues we were treated to island hopping at Honda Bay (Starfish Island, Luli Island, Cowrie island) which I love. It’s been almost two decades since my last cruise to this islets, it was a personal one. There has been lot of changes and I was seeing things with different eyes. There are structures now, maybe have enhanced the appearance and accommodation capacity but at the back of my mind, the waste and management disposal is always an issue. The attractions brought more people, boats though controlled are plying between islands more often. Paradise for fun seekers and socmed fanatics who need to update threads with good looking photos! My heart sunk for all the so-called developments…

Had a dip in Cowrie Island!

Eventually my dive plans in the city was cancelled and I chose to head for El Nido, it’s been awhile and almost ten years since my last visit. It was nothing new to be all alone, and there was no definite plans for my detour. Again, randomness felt like going to the unknown and surprises are always at stake. Risk is always better than regret, so they say!

Bacuit Bay, El Nido

I arrived at the transport terminal of El Nido past noon, along the way changes were eminent. The roads are now paved all throughout and lot of structures have sprouted. I hailed a trike to bring me straight to my lodge, the fare was way much higher. I was thinking to just walk with my back pack but the noon sun was scorching so I gave in. My modest room at Lualhati Gardens was just perfect and very accessible to any point in town. This was our same refuge when I first visited to El Nido, it wasn’t spared of changes. The gardens were gone, grounds are cemented and only one tree left standing in between the structures. I went for a walk after I settled my stuff and after inquiring from a sari-sari store, last minute hailed a trike for Las Cabañas to catch the sunset! There were lot of people already in the area lounging perhaps waiting for the sunset like me. :) The golden sunset shone gloriously as the day came to end. When I got back, I watched the guys from my door lively wrapping up post dive tasks, a dive shop is right in the front street of my lodge!

Lunch stop at Snake Island

I was picked up the next morning for an island hopping I booked last minute, the beach front was already full of tourists waiting for their boats. Our first challenge was getting into the boat, wade the waist-deep waters with the surf and hurriedly climb up the gangplank before the big waves could throw you down. Just enough adrenaline to start the adventure! :) The waters was bit rough, so sailing to the islands was not without crashing waves! The good thing was I was joined with matured people, mostly were residing or working abroad. Thankfully, not with shrieking or shouting young ones! :) I kept close to our tour guide as I used to do – they always can give lot of stories, tips, even open up their own living. John was a good-hearted fellow and he speaks Visayan, to my delight! He is a diver too and I told him also my diving trips in El Nido with the Palawan Divers, and was glad to know that some DMs I knew are still around in the town including Yoshi San. I was eyeing of the caves so I chose Tour B, it was sunny but the rough waters didn’t help. During the hopping I keep close to that friendly Ilocano couple who were Guam residents. The waves slowed down our boat, there was a need to shorten the cruise too as the winds might get fiercer in the afternoon. In the end, we only explored the Codugnon Cave which was bit challenging, swimming to the cliff and crawling trough that small entrance. That was tough especially for the oldies but it went well for all of us. We anchored at the shallows of Snake Island, the sand bar strip wasn’t there due to high tide. We waded the waters and trek the small hill getting a good view of the surroundings, in no time we waded back to the boat when the waters getting deep due to high tide. Our group settled there and had a leisure, long lunch surrounded by waters!

Nacpan Beach , I walked away from the crowds…

The next morning John picked me up, I decided a detour to Sibaltan and he offered to bring me there with his motorbike. That was a good decision, I learned from him that all water activities in El Nido for the day was cancelled by PCG due to rough waters. It was a long ride but the rural scenery was refreshing – it was all farm lands, the rice fields are all in different stages, cows & carabaos in the meadows and the greeneries. It was good to catch glimpse of the other side of El Nido, the communities thrive through agriculture. Grateful that the highways are paved, there were only bumps for the detours from the highway like when we search for QiPalawan and few road repairs along the way.

Sibaltan is a coastal barangay on the other side of El Nido town about 41 kilometers away, passing about four other barangays from the town. It was a Tuesday so the community was almost deserted, we went straight at the water front to look for Dive Sibaltan Shop. The super low tide gave us space to drive along the sandy beach. We had a good talk with Ms. Rose (diveshop manager), a group of divers who happened to be LAMAVE volunteers for manta rays research were setting out for the waters for the day’s task. The brief time with Ms. Rose gave me so much information and promised her to be back in near future. We went up to Erlittop Garden Eco Lodge for lunch, enjoying the food watching the horizons basking with nature. It was so serene! On our way back, John was strongly suggesting to detour to Duli Beach, a haven for surfing which wasn’t heard of the last time I was in El Nido. It was packed with surfers mostly foreigners, but the trash were all around was so disturbing. We still have enough time so John went straight to Nacpan Beach – there was so much changes, like many structures have sprouted. Few bars, tattoo parlor, massage parlor, restos and even some place for lodging. And again, so much trashes abound in the area. You cant go up anymore to the hill to get the view of the twin beaches – Calitang and Nacpan, the property was closed already for outsiders. The site have literally become crowded!

Dive shop right at Lualhati Garden!

I arrived in my lodgings before dark which gave me enough time to walk at the water front to catch a glimpse of the sunset. The next morning, I walked to the water front again earlier before the day’s bustle. The people were just few moving around, quiet unusual for a rural community. I left El Nido with a new perception of what this little town have become after almost ten years. I had beautiful memories of the town when I first came and even the second time when both I had the opportunity to dive its diverse depths!

Anew in the Highlands

Strawberry fields forever!

We had a quick travel to Misamis Occidental for work in March to catch up with our timelines. And I didn’t know there was something in store for us. It was a long road, as we chose not to cruise to Ozamis City from Mukas due to long queue vehicles at the port. We visited the towns in our itinerary and spent overnihgt at Oroquieta City. Our last stop was Don Victoriano Chiongbian (aptly dubbed as Don Vic), a little town tucked at the foot of Mt. Malindang. My work brought me here more than a decade ago for a special project, and we even spent overnight once in those trips. Just like any elevated community, it had temperate weather and going to bath with freezing water was the last thing you wanted!

Fresh, luscious strawberry fruit!

There was much changes too, all the road are now paved and I noticed lot of structures along the way when it used to be deserted. The town hall got even better and there was more activity, more people and more improvements. After a short meeting and our mission done, we left for the farm. The town is now a proud producer of strawberries!

Our visit turn out to be a discovery of farmlands now planted with strawberries, what was more interesting was the berries were sweet and in dark red color. The farm that we visited was less than hectare, but the harvests gave the lowly farmer a decent income twice a week. The volcanic soil was giving enough nutrients suitable for the berries. The stories we heard from the farmers was an inspiration. It was a success story for the farmers in Don Vic! That night on the road, I was still thinking about what we discovered from the little town on our way to Cagayan de Oro.

There’s a good reason to be back in the summer capital of Misamis Occidental!

Escape to San Isidro

Leaving for Ormoc…

There are still parts of eastern Visayas that have remained unexplored, while I spent a month in the south of Leyte for that marine volunteer works, the northern part was still uncharted. So, with an invitation from a retired work mate who had just built a vacation house in San Isidro we planned a summer break to this remote town hoping for a new discovery. I ended up alone, my two friends backed out for various reasons – the usual thing! :)

So one Thursday morning I flew to Cebu, went downtown and just like my previous visits in the queen city of the south, did my homage at Basilica Minore de Sto. Niño. I guess it felt like there’s something missing if I missed the visit. Fortunately, I was able to have a brief meet-up with a college friend having office nearby at the City Hall which is just a stone throw from the basilica and Magellan’s Cross! Yes, two hits with one stone. Then on, rush to port and took the ferry to Ormoc which I also look forward since I haven’t been into the city before. :) The cruise in the vast blue seas was smooth and we arrived as scheduled. It was perfect timing, my friend and family were downtown so that I had transportation for the drive to their hometown which was almost 80 kilometers away. The rural setting along the road was very welcoming! It was a long day, it was night time already when we arrived home.

Dusks in San Isidro is decorated with golden hues!

It was a real vacation I guess – eat, relax, fresh air and quite neighbourhood. Just few meters away is the beach and every morning fishers bring fresh catch. We joined the locals, strolled around, watched afternoon games for their coming fiesta. There was that glorious sunset in the dusk, everyday! We drove to Biliran asking directions along the way, explored neighbouring communities and was surprised to find a Jollibee outlet in such remote town! :)

Basilica Minore del Sto. Niño in blue hour

I went the same route for my return and thankfully my friend drive me off to Ormoc for my ferry ride to Cebu. An overnight stay at Cebu Century Plaza Hotel was good enough, and since it was Sunday I went for the holy mass at the basilica. I left early the next morning for the airport to catch my flight back to CdeO. I still hold on to my theory that seeing one new place is a door to a new world. The escape to this obscure remote town of San Isidro gave me fresh eyes for that side of the country. 🙂

And it always brings me joy when I came home after new discoveries, it’s empowering I guess. Travelling alone will make you stronger ready to embrace what’s ahead during the journey!

El Nido Affair 2

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One of the secrets in El Nido

“We will be back after five years.” – it was a promise to ourselves…

My first visit to El Nido three years back was with two reasons – to nurse my broken spirit after my mum’s demise and to fill the gap of our aborted Tubbataha 2010 plan. Discovering and diving in this quaint town was more than good enough, I came home with my light tan and twinkling eyes, that trip with my favorite dive buddy gave comfort somehow. And as if to console our selves as we left, he promised we will be back in five years and I was thinking if I would still be around after such time. Gladly, we were back not after five years but shortly, my buddy just gave in to my whims for a return this June, exactly three years from the first visit and what a joy! I was anticipating for a relaxing long weekend in this quiet town with sights like karst cliffs, mountains, greeneries, underwater life, beach and sunsets.

Simple Wishes

The trip was challenged again – confusing changes of my airline tickets, the rains and my buddy’s late arrival in PP but we made it though. Last evening flight from CdeO, overnight in Cebu, flight to Puerto, five hours wait, six hours bus ride, then I finally hit my bed almost midnight in El Nido. It was like more than 24 hours on the road! Indeed, I was wishing for an unhurried pace during the get-away.

We woke up the next morning with heavy downpour, the rains pounding the roof creating ground pools. Eager for our day’s dives I was hoping it would stop but refused to be bothered, I always considered rains as blessings. The downcast skies and showers did not prevent us in reporting to Palawan Divers at 8am as agreed. Accordingly the day’s dives were cancelled by management for safety reasons, inarguably it was logical and we trusted their judgment.

Wish granted! So our day one was all about relaxing and food galore, yes literally we hopped in three restos for all our day meals.  So as a start we had breakfast at The Art Café (tuna pesto, bruschetta, fruit shakes), lingered for sometime in their breezy second floor terrace, leisurely playing sungka while having our meals. For lunch, we chose The Alternative Resto and tried mixed veggies soup and fish steak with mashed potatoes. The place is at the waterfront overlooking Bacuit Bay and so we had a good view of the overcast horizons, it was an opportunity to sit by the seascape with such gloomy mode, and it was surprising that the surrounding waters was so calm. No sign whatsoever of disturbance. We got chance to walk around town on our way home, many changes were evident – lot of lodges, inns or hotels sprouted and so with restos, cafés, spas, bistros even new dive shops now lining the street. The down town is getting a bit crowded compared three years ago, though the bucolic atmosphere is still there. Funny was, we were in our wetsuits getting around – talking of properly dressed! Our afternoon nap compensated for the previous day long trip, and we had few hours to rest and unwind until evening.

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Blue skies, blue waters and serenity….

The gorgeous sunset that I wanted to view again by the bay was nowhere, downcast skies was all the way to the evening. But it didn’t stop us to walk the dark path to have our dinner at Bacuit Grill. Hadefe Cottages is in Brgy Masagana at the far end of the shoreline quiet accessible to the resto. Angel and I both loved the place, it has lovely view of sunset and night lights lining the coast in the evening. Most importantly, the food is great – we both loved the creamy shrimp spaghetti! I was imagining I was in St. Tropez (again) sitting there watching the night lights under a canopy of stars. But there were no stars this time, and the rain started to pour again after we ordered our food – and yes, we had shrimp spaghetti again with veggies salad! Bacuit Grill I think is iconic in El Nido, it was filled with diners especially evenings foreigners or local tourists alike.

Sometimes a simple wish is granted inscrutably, the poor weather turned the day as purely relaxing – easygoing and comfortably indulging us with good rest and good food.

Bacuit Depths Once More

The next morning promised bright skies despite the light morning rain, we found already other divers when we got at the dive shop and again all were foreigners – all four of them: a couple doing intro diving, one doing confine dives for OW course and one with high-tech cam doing some documentary who was joined to us with DM Doy. It was a bunch and it felt good to be back. I was glad to see DM Yoshi again and reminded him of our dives with them three years ago – amazing three long dives one sunny day which he described as crazy!

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Exploring once more Bacuit in the depths

We cruised about 10 minutes to Cadlao Island – the largest island in Bacuit Bay and dropped off Ms. Abby with the OW student at Paradise Beach. We got back to the nearby Natnat Beach for our first descent unto a sandy slope decorated alternately with soft corals, crinoids and tropical fishes. Mysteriously the viz was not bad despite the previous day rains. There were rabbit fishes, sergeants, clownfish, trumpetfish, trigger fish and a herd of striped eel fish. I tried to follow a giant bat fish that came near but was so elusive. There were several specie of nudis and found some bristle worms too. We ascend after 56 mins with my air still at 100 bars.

Giant bat fish!
Giant bat fish!

The sun was generous enough and brightened the skies for our dives. We proceed to Entalula Island as our next site and had our surface interval there. Our next descent was at the western side, DM Doy briefed us to go south bound halfway then swam back in same route for the boat. Rolling back for our entry we descend to a drop-off and drifted with the mild current. Tropical fishes hovered over soft and hard corals, there were damsels, puffer, triggers, trumpets and variety of anemone fishes. Then a blue spotted ribbontail ray resting on under sand crevice surprised us, but quickly hid from view disturbed by our quick movements. Our first time to spot such colorful ray, its radiant numerous blue spots and its flattened long tail with blue lines looked interesting. We found also a gray stingray resting on sand, quickly hopped nearby after our DM gently poked him. The stingrays for me were great find, absolutely. Our return to the boat meant swimming against the current which become stronger, such conditions made me cringe – swims against current are tiring! We hovered over a coral area for our safety stop, where a curious remora swam near us perhaps inspecting for a possible abode! We ascend after 50 minutes with my air at 100 bars.

Christmas tree bristle worm!
Christmas tree bristle worm!

Our surface interval was spent on a patch of white beach of West Entalula for our late lunch, obviously everyone was starving, it was past 1pm already! It was a perfect setting – turquoise waters, white beach, karst and blue sunny skies. We lingered a little while until we all piled up on the boat for our next site. The DMs were aiming for Pinaglugaban Rock but as we cruised, the waters went choppy so they decided last minute for Twin Rocks which is located at the north side of Miniloc Island. It was better I thought as it would be something new to explore than the Pinaglugaban. The water was

An alligator flat head - rare find!  But sorry, the blue ribbon tail and blue spotted  stingray quickly hid for a photo
An alligator flat head – rare find! But sorry, the blue ribbon tail and blue spotted stingray quickly hid away

indeed calm and the afternoon waters welcomed us as we back rolled for our entry. We ascend unto a reef slope with variety of tropical fishes, decorated with table corals, whips and sponges. We found two blue dotted stingray both resting on sands, it was surprising that they were not threatened of our presence, as they keep their grounds. There were yellow scadfish, sweetlips, anemone fish, pipefish and puffers. We passed by a school of transparent barracudas – another great find! At first I thought they were different specie of jacks. One more great find was a crocodile flathead, as bottom dweller it was camouflaging on the sands, I thought it was a stonefish. We ascend after 52 minutes with my air at 90 bars.

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Something new – different specie of nudi

Well, we finished off the day with pasta dinner in Bacuit Grill – I guess Angel just love the place and their great food. Again, it was pouring hard while we dine but the aura of the bistro was cheerful – it was filled with tourists again. As if everyone was oblivious of the dark night and rains….

Luxury Redefined

The next morning greeted us with bright skies which what we just wanted, one more day to relax and discover the twin beaches of Nacpan and Calitang! No rushing, we wanted our last day in our unhurried pace so we left the town by mid-morning taking Tolit’s motorcab. The first-half of the roads were paved and the rest were bumpy and pot-holed, there were ongoing road works leading to next town of New Ibajay. Just like back home, I think these on-going road works are all over the country. Watching the bukid sceneries is pure joy to me, the mountains, the fields – so serene and pure. The rice fields which I believe are rain-fed in different states – few were left from last harvest, some started to plow, few had seedlings sprouted already, few are ready to plant and some have started to plant already. And I am always amused of herons gathering near the carabao in the middle of the field, some even would hop on the carabao picking its back – two contrasting colors yet in harmony – white heron on black carabao’s back! We arrived Nacpan beach after an hour, the long stretch of long beach was almost deserted and the clear blue waters decorated with waves – like beckoning us! Such luxury when all those beaches out there are crowded and filled with man-made structures.

Nacpan and Calitang Beach
Nacpan and Calitang Beach

The mild sun was a blessing though the sky wasn’t blue enough for the photos, the subdued sky over the horizon created an unobtrusive milieu. Angel and I found a new friend, a local dog just came over us while we’re taking refuge under the coconut trees, she lingered with us and even joined us as we tried to walk the long beach but have to get back when it started to drizzle. I remembered the pup that joined us in Daku Island.

A pink boat in the beach!
A pink boat in the beach!

We started to walk the westward stretch, you can never miss the colossal resthouse on the beach which appeared ominous and hollow – a sharp contrast from the simple and ordinary abodes of the locals! We climbed the hill for a vantage of the two beaches – taking the higher grounds is the best way to get a good view of this extraordinary works of nature. We spotted few tourists taking photos on our way to the hill top, bit arduous and filled with tall grasses, I was wary of bee and insect stings. It was somewhat slippery due to rains. We got it to the top with the breathtaking view – extraordinaire indeed! The 360 degrees view of this little paradise was indeed soul-filling.

The scorching heat got us, we hastily got down with our guide Tolit, passing again the wide cogon grass area and almost run for the beach. We needed a quick swim, the heat and my itches were getting over me. It was all to ourselves as we swam, enjoying the turquoise waters like kids. Another luxury…

The hilltop for the grand view of this paradise
The hilltop for the grand view of this secret paradise

We were starving already, so we walked back again to the other end straight to Catian Beach. A quiet place with few beach huts under the coco trees, we had our late lunch while waiting for the fresh buko which Angel wanted. The buko was costly but undoubtedly good. 😛 One more luxury – dining at the beach front with the sounds of the crashing waves. The skies have cleared but still not blue enough for my photos. Anyway, after a relaxing lunch we had another swim at the front. The clear waters and the crashing big waves was irresistible. We swam and swam like kids and played with the big waves! I haven’t done it for a long time, I can’t remember when was the last. 

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To swim in this beautiful beach is an act of worship!

We finally left at 3pm passing again all the greeneries and fields, and got back to town in 45 minutes. Surprisingly shorter than going there, I think Tolits drove faster going home. We have enough time for some good rest before our long bus trip back to Puerto Princesa. For the second time, coming to El Nido is an affair for relaxing and for new discoveries. And again I am always grateful of Angel’s company during these exclusive trips.

Perhaps I will never get a chance to experience El Nido staying in Miniloc Island Resort, Lagen Island Resort or the latest addition and most luxurious, Pangulasian Island Resort but many would miss or often neglect the ordinary and simple things as opulent because it is not expensive and ostentatious. For me, the greatness of God always reveals itself in simple things, not rearranged by human hands.

I may not be back to this quaint town again but I’m taking all these beautiful memories to heart.  Yes, it’s another affair to remember.

Travel Notes:

1. There are lot of dive shops now in El Nido but I prefer Palawan Divers, we paid P 3,600.00 per head for three boat dives, including DM, BCD & reg, lunch and marine conservation fee. Enriched air would cost P 300.00/tank, certification is necessary.
2. Aside from vans, El Nido can be reached also by Roro aircon bus at P 425.00/pax; reservation is needed to get a sure seat especially if you have a flight to catch in Puerto Princesa.
3. Skin care essentials – sunscreen, tapis or hat. If you head for Nacpan, don’t forget insect repellent to protect from sand flies. I’m still suffering from bites allergies after four weeks!


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Snorkeling at its Best

Jellyfish Lagoon

Being a water person, diving and snorkeling most often is my agenda in trips and being around in search for interesting sites, I can name five which I recommend worthy to explore.  Although my hunt is still on-going I’m pretty sure there are still sites to discover around the country.  I have snorkeled in these spots, and I wasn’t disappointed.  Aside of the rich marine life and idyllic setting, all these spots are off beaten.  So getting there is in itself challenging making the journey more enthralling, or would I say truly enchanting.

Wreck as reefs

5. Lusong Gunboat. Located in Coron Bay in Lusong Island, this shallow wreck is one of the large concentration of WW II wrecks in the area. Lying from the surface about 10 meters, the wreck is very visible and watching the varied colorful marine life surrounding the area is wonderful.  Most wrecks are too deep for snorkel, so having one this shallow is too interesting for non-divers.

Rich fish life in marine sanctuary

4. Marine Sanctuary, Balicasag Island.  Off the captivating Panglao Island in Bohol, it’s an eco-tourism destination and maintained by Philippine Tourism Authority (PTA), it’s a marine life sanctuary. PTA and Philippine Navy jointly promote the island for underwater sports and as model for environmental and ecological preservation. It’s about 45 minutes by pumpboat from Alona Beach. It’s ideal for snorkeling, docking at fish sanctuary, feeding fish is wonderful as fish go near you up close, viewing deep down under with corals, sponges, star fishes, colorful fishes amidst deep blue waters is so breathtaking! I always believe that there’s much beauty deep down, more than what we see in the dry lands.

Blue river!

3. Enchanted River.  This blue river is situated in Hinatuan, Surigao Sur and going there is such a long trip.  But just watching the refreshing blue waters is truly enchanting.  The marine life consists of snappers, sweet lips and rabbit fish – viewing them through your goggles or mask surrounded by its blue waters can be too mesmerizing, wondering such specie thrive in a river.  They have grown in size and number and have claimed the blue waters as their home.  Feeding them is an added attraction, at 12:00 noon as if they have clocks, they all float-up for their feeds.  Wonderful sight!

Rich fish life in Shimizu!

2. Shimizu Island.  One of the captivating islets we hopped on in El Nido, its just one of those idyllic islands with pristine white beach with a backdrop of limestone cliffs. Just stepping into the shallow waters, you can already catch glimpse of large herd of tropical fish swarming the waters.  Shallow as one meter- sergeants, wrasses, damsels and other tropical species come near, so near your hand as you feed them.  I have never such encounter with fishes so tame, they are all around swimming in swarm.  So lovely!

Stingless jellyfish!

1. Tojoman Lagoon. A hidden paradise!  Nothing could be more wonderful than swimming with the stingless jellyfish not just in tens but millions of them.  Those brown jellies in varied sizes swimming and pulsating, so near you. So incredible indeed!  So friendly, one can touch. swim and play with these slimy brown creatures..  So serene, so beautiful.  The lagoon is secretly tucked in Bucas Grande islands in Surigao Norte, comparable if not at par with Jellyfish Lagoon in Palau.

The above sites are truly worthy for a visit, so give in to your adventurous spirit and have a wonderful aqua trip.  Don’t forget your mask, snorkel and sunscreen, its real hot out there!

El Nido Affair

Crystal clear waters, limestone cliffs, blue skies…

El Nido – so distant, opulent and perceived to be luxurious, a popular destination many tourists have been raving to explore.  The notion of visiting it this year is somewhat remote as it was only an alternate for Tubbataha 2010.  Then last minute we deferred our coveted dive trip, and hastily arranged our schedules for our mid-year trip to this enchanting quaint town at the  northern part of the Last Frontier.

The arrangements were not easy – evaluating the possible routes required longer leave from work and it made me cringe since being away on month ends must be avoided as I was warned.  Both Angel and I crossed our fingers, and when it was approved with no questions asked I was elated but tried not to spill any hint of excitement!  My tickets were squeezed too to get easier course and ended up more costly compared to early-purchased ones.  We carefully planned our itinerary believing the place has much to offer  and we need to make most of our time, after all we have three full days to explore  El Nido, not to mention two days of travel time.

On the Road

As usual I sneak home one Thursday morning as I have to catch up my early flight to Cebu hoping again I would bump no one I knew at the airport but as I queue up to check-in, somebody was beaming calling me. Of all the people, executives from BFAR whom I knew well! So the usual questions, they were delighted I’m heading for a dive trip, knowing me with subdued traits it was surprising for them I became passionate with the marine world. We parted ways as they were on another plane.

I found myself seated  between two men on my flight to Cebu, it felt stupid why I didn’t ask for a window seat. I waited for more than two hours for my next flight and we touched down Puerto Princesa as scheduled with Angel waiting for over an hour, we rushed to Fort Wally terminal as the van has been waiting for us.  My mind considering possibilities as I got a message earlier from Seair that my flight was cancelled! We resolved to settle things when we arrive in our destination.  In a little while, we left and set off for the long trip about 238 kilometers away.  The heat was scorching!

Somehow I was surprised that the roads are paved far from what I conceived as dusty and potholed, stories I heard told me going up north are all rough roads!  Until we reached Roxas two hours later for our lunch stop, it was all smooth.   On our way,  I was trying to search for a rainbow, pressing my nose on the glass windows but found none, but was relieved when it appeared on the west side with its end just beyond the field!  I always took rainbows as sign of a wonderful trip which Angel also affirmed.  As we passed the towns of San Vicente and Taytay, there were still road works and estimated to be 70% completed until El Nido.  Our vehicle had a breakdown about 40 kilometers away before finally reaching our destination, delaying our arrival past 6pm.

Bacuit Bay horizons….

Surprisingly, the sun was still up and we had a great view of the colorful sunset at Bacuit Bay as our vehicle crawled to the town center.  It was all too gorgeous!  🙂

Holiday  Begins

We settled at Lualhati Cottages, a place farther away from downtown but still walking distance. It’s a quiet place with garden and fruit trees around,  a comfy and decent dwellings which Angel and I liked.  Few days earlier we agreed to find some place overlooking the bay to get a sunset view every day, it would be so wonderful!   🙂 We went for a walk downtown: buy some needs, had dinner at a carenderia, went to the beach front and search Og’s Pension to check their rooms.  The beach front was in festive mood as lot of people was night swimming perhaps because it’s the feast of St. John the Baptist.  We walked the whole stretch trying to get the El Nido night atmosphere – there were restos, bar, lodge, inns and beach hotels lining up – like any beach front it offered a lot of dwellings to pass the night by.  One thing I like when in a holiday in a strange place, I can wear anything (modestly, of course) without worrying somebody I knew would catch me, dress code and decorum at the office is sometimes drastic!  😛  Angel and I discussed where to dine in the next three evenings to wind up our day’s events!  We tried to remember landmarks as it would be our path in the next days.  We got back to our lodge  thankful it’s just ideal to our liking – I can hear the crickets, night bird and house lizard sounds – environment friendly still!  We doze off finally, it’s been a long day and the morrow’s schedule requires much energy!

Diving in Bacuit Bay

We check in at Palawan Divers the next morning before 8am as instructed, earlier I was trying to negotiate for a 3-dive trip to maximize time but not promising although they will consider if other divers will sign in, no other bookings yet at that time as informed. I was getting excited as it has been more than two months since I last dove with Angel at Kalanggaman Island.  So, when I asked GM Yoshi and Ms. Abby if we can have 3 dives, Angel and I was thrilled when they showed us the plan for the three spots!  😀  Other divers can just snorkel around while we do the third descent.  After we signed up, briefing, review of hand signals  with DM Windel, other divers came.  Malcolm, Paddi & Heidi are Britons while Rafael is French – all  foreigners!  Might as well worthwhile to mention that in all our dives, foreigners are regulars (mostly Europeans) and they too are wondering why locals are not so much into diving.

Somewhat the skies are downcast, an advantage actually since the heat will be minimal.  We cruise the bay for or first descent at Abdeens Reef, Angel and I was with DM Windel and Malcolm.  We did the roll-back entry, it felt so good to be back in the waters!  When we got down, our first sighting was the garden eel – we stayed for awhile getting a good view while it tried to come out almost thirds trying to observe us perhaps!  And again, the feeling of belonging to the marine world engulfed me – so beautiful, so serene… Then suddenly a school of stripe fish appeared, camouflaging as big fish – such a rare sight! DM Windel was so keen on macros, we search on corals, crinoids, rocks for shrimp, small crabs, and lot of tiny colorful nudis.   Tropical fishes abound at the reef – butterfly, bat, angels, banners, damsels, surgeons, rabbit, anemonefish, barramundi, anthias, moorish idol, lionfish and a moray under a coral. Somewhere along while we get shallower, I was struggling to control my buoyancy so one kilo weights was added for me which made me more stable while doing the safety stop.  After 63 minutes, we ascend with 40 bars of my air left.

Exploring the secret in the depths of Bacuit Bay

After an hour of interval, we cruise shortly to Paglugaban Rock for our second descent, we went down at 21.8 meters as deepest and again there was an array of fishes, critters, corals plus rock formations.  We went into alley-like formations, ship front and boulders. Suddenly, we heard an explosion, looking around we wondered what it was! We found out later from DM Windel it was some dynamite explosion – what, in broad daylight? In a marine protected area? By law, El Nido (MNR AO # 518 expanded by DENR AO # 14 s. of 1992; Proclamation #32 is now at congress) is protected, terrestrial or coastal. How ridiculous!  Nonsensical – how far have they gone in destroying this paradise? After awhile, we went around though and there was anemones again, lionfish, porcupine fish, unicorn, parrots, triggers, puffers, butterfly, a lobster, colorful nudis and variety of hard corals.  We ascend after 73 minutes with 30 bars of my air left.  I was wondering if the fishers got all the catch they wanted after the blast, have they realized the extent of damage done on the marine environment?

It started to drizzle as we speed off to Entalula Island for our late lunch, there was a patch of white beach and we anchored there for our stop.  We took refuge under a tree and took our meals leisurely talking and Ms Abby telling us stories about this small quaint town. We just sat on the sand surrounding an improvised low table (Japanese style) bidding our time.

Squid eggs hanging on at the cage!

Finally, for our third descent we hop to Comocotan Island, a small rock islet.  Lowly in structure but rich deep down.  Initially, it was only Angel and I was booked but in the end Malcolm enlisted too.  Since we’re in same group, we got out of the boat together, we descend almost 3pm.  The first sight that met us as we got down were cages with green leaves, we came closer and found lot of squid eggs hanging  on it – whitish small tubes, which could produce thousands if not millions of mollusks. How magnificent!  We found fusiliers, groupers, wrasses, cardinal fish, spotted sweet lips, variety of anemone fish again and colorful unique nudis in pairs. We took a closer look of a shell covered in black, thought for awhile it was a big nudi.  🙂  We circled completely the small islet and after 76 minutes we surfaced with 40 bars of my air left.  I realized later that all of us went down for the last dive! Well, how can a diver resist such opportunity?  🙂

We sailed off back to town still drizzling grateful for the great marine encounters of the day.  GM Yoshi commented it’s unusual for them to have three long dives in a day!  Before we could call the day off at the diveshop, DM Windel discussed with us the species we got into and we learned so many things from him.  We roam the streets looking for a place to dine, we retraced our steps and settled at Lonesome Carabao Lounge which was just near the diveshop.  Fortunately, the rains have stopped already and after our relaxed dinner we walked back to our lodge.    It was such a long day, and after rinsing our gears we surrendered to the comfort of our beds.  There was no sunset today….

Water, Water Everywhere!

The next two days was devoted for island hopping and snorkeling and what a joy – I just love the waters!  🙂  On our second day, we explored Small Lagoon and Big Lagoon at Miniloc Island.  We swam and snorkeled to get into the small lagoon, there were many kayakers inside but we wade to the innermost corner to explore a small cave.

Cave inside the small lagoon

There were formations inside, you can get a good view as you swam around the waters inside but there was less fish life.  We hop next to big lagoon cruising around, the two Koreans in our company was simply amazed of the sights, perhaps they were attracted with the limestone cliffs. We cruised to Payong-payong Beach for our lunch, a small white beach near Miniloc Island Beach Resort.  We snorkeled round while waiting for our lunch, I had the opportunity to observe a school of parrots & triggers feeding on dead corals, I learned that they are capable of producing cu. ft of sand in a year! We had a sumptuous lunch of grilled snappers and pork chop with veggie salad, having  a good view of the resort but to me it looks gloomy and ominous.

We hop next to Shimizu Island (named after two Japanese brothers who died while diving due to air loss), there’s a white beach again but what was most interesting was the active fish life in the area.  We snorkeled and even without food, throng of sergeants, six bar wrasse and damsels gather around on you, it was simply marvelous!

Feeding with sergeants, six-bar wrasse & damsels

Angel and I enjoyed so much fish feeding (sorry!), they came near surrounding you and feeding from bare hands was simply amazing!  🙂  We lingered for awhile going round and round, we took turns in taking photos…

Our last hop for the day was in 7 Commando Island, another white beach too just beyond the limestone cliffs south east of the town.  When we got back, we roamed the streets again trying to search for El Nido Foundation to buy a fish id book but when we got there, it was closed.  So we went straight back to our lodge to freshen up.  Our dinner was spent at Art Café believing the food would be great plus the wifi connection.  🙂  Indeed it was – our fish n chips, Hawaiian pizza and fruit shakes were perfect but somewhat pricey!  Most of the diners were foreigners, Angel and I was amused because two dogs were roaming around the restaurant and nobody dared to drive them away!  Dogs everywhere…

Mysterious secret beach…

The next morning we attended Sunday mass at St. Francis of Assissi church as our first agenda of the day and later rushed back to our lodge to prepare for our last day of exploring  Bacuit archipelago.  We found again the two Koreans plus a French couple joined with us for the tour.  We cruised for Matinloc Island which led us to our first stop at Hidden Beach – another small patch of white beach hidden among the limestone cliffs.  We swam again and snorkeled a bit just trying to observe the underwater scene.  We cruised next to Secret Beach which the waters become choppy when we got near the area.  It was bit challenging, with the raging waters we swam to a small entrance at the rock cliff, must be careful not to be swept by the big waves.  But when you get inside, it seems another place – crystal calm waters, white sands, lush vegetations, rock cliffs – all so natural and serene.  We stayed awhile swimming and enjoying the scenery inside the little paradise.  We swam back again the raging waters back to the boat.

We cruised to Star Beach which belonged to Tapiutan Island, our next stop for our lunch, which was just across the Shrine. Another white beach but lot of mosquitoes!  While waiting for our food, we swam again and snorkeled to view the corals in the area. We did some fish feeding but not much fish life. We had a sumptuous lunch again of grilled squid and fish with veggie salad.  We hop across next to the Shrine.  It has small port, a

Matinloc island shrine

cottage, a gazebo and a little chapel.  We explored a bit and climb up the limestone cliff to get an overlooking view of the surrounding waters.  We look up to that small rugged cross on the topmost of the cliff. We saw a large school of fish

Just love the fishes!

in shallow waters near the port which darkens the area – such rich resources!  We did a side trip to Kulasa Beach for fish feeding and snorkeling again.  Fish life was active – trumpet fishes, damsels, anthias, sergeants, and anemones too.  Our last stop for the day was at Helicopter Island (because It looks like helicopter at a distance), it has a long stretch of white beach, crystal waters, reefs, rich fish life even in shallow waters and idyllic setting.  I snorkeled again viewing the underwater in all its splendor, soon I’ll be missing all these and I just wanted to immerse myself in all its perfection.

In our last day, Angel and I wished to catch a glimpse of the gorgeous sunset at Bacuit Bay and true indeed, the sun showed up in the afternoon. We planned for a dinner overlooking the bay, we headed for Bacuit Grill to the end of the beach front.  The colorful sunset displayed its countenance as if smiling, beckoning to take in its vast glory!  Our food was just perfect – shrimp spaghetti, fish steak in bacuit sauce, garden salad and fruit shakes.  It felt luxurious and I was imagining I was in St. Tropez!  We enjoyed our dinner in oil lamp with matching night lights from the port!  So picturesque…

When we got back in our room, we started to pack up.  Our holiday almost ended… 😦

Journey Back

We woke up earlier the next morning and finished packing – always I have a lot of stuff to pack!  With the cancellation of  my El Nido-Manila flight, I ended up going to Puerto Princesa with Angel and joined him in his Zest Air flight to Manila in the afternoon.  We got into Fort Wally van again on our way back and reached Puerto a little past 12 noon. We wanted to treat ourselves with a sumptous lunch, gladly we ended up at Ka Lui Restaurant after asking the tricycle driver for a good resto in the city.

Fish cordon bleu for lunch at Ka Lui

The good ambience plus the delectable dishes have refreshed us – fish cordon bleu, tuna steak, tubbataha salad, fruit shakes plus a complimentary fresh fruit salad was more than enough for my hunger.  Again, we indulge ourselves to close a wonderful holiday!  🙂  While waiting for our 5:20pm flight, we transferred to Itoy’s Café and  taking advantage of the wifi connection while sipping  capuccino.  We checked in early and found the pre-departure area full, at least there’s no one I knew here!  It was my first time for Zest Air (so with Angel), our flight was smooth but  our landing was delayed due to some emergency at the old domestic airport, we hovered around and circled four times – the thing is I was getting a good view of the sunset at high  altitude!  Somewhere in the mid of the flight, we spotted a rainbow in the horizons – a reminder for a wonderful journey….  🙂

An Affair to Remember

Grateful all the arrangements work well for me, I left for the airport from Visayas Avenue the next morning for my 420am flight.  Actually I only slept about three hours, so as soon as we got airborne for my flight back to CdeO, I doze off straight and only woke up when we touched down.  The Lord again arranged all things perfectly, indeed entrusting things to Him can do wonders.  I reported back to work as planned.  I sat on my desk doing my work, my workmates had no idea what I been up to. Will they notice my tan or the twinkle in my eyes?  🙂  Maybe, maybe  not…

I could have wanted more, our Dive Tubbataha!  as planned – I waited for it, prepared for it, saved for it and dreaming of it. I learned that sometimes no matter how carefully we plan for things, interventions can come beyond our control, without doubt for a purpose. But the El Nido affair had in many ways refreshed me, I hold on to my theory that knowing one new place is therapeutic, some kind of a door to another world.  It gives a smile to one’s lips and twinkle in one’s eyes. I couldn’t be more bullish to admit that the wonderful dives at Bacuit Bay with my friend and dive buddy Angel was incredible and educational one: three long dives in a row, dynamite blast underwater, first encounter of camouflaging stripe fish, and witnessed a squid eggs habitation.  The Tubbataha dream can wait, but El Nido affair is something I will always cherish.  We might not be able to visit this quaint town in the next five years but the experience is something I would treasure and relish, never to be forgotten.  Indeed, an affair to remember…