Author: cbartazo

Diving Adventures in Moalboal: A Return to Paradise

Diving Adventures in Moalboal: A Return to Paradise

cbartazo

After a wonderful sojourn and matching discoveries in Sibaltan, another diving trip was put to order in June. Yes, in summer like it used to be!  For some time, I was aiming and wanted to be back in Cabilao Island but conditions were not favorable, a weekend was too short for the trip.  Our instinct just urged us and we randomly decide for our fave destination in southern Cebu.  It was almost five years since our last visit and it was like a homecoming!

Pescador Island in a distance

Just like my quirky escapes – late flight, no proper meals, early dawn bus ride – yet arrived safely in town still dark. My buddy and I realized now that Moalboal is not too far from the city, we barely had three hours on the road. After five years though, there has been lot of noticeable changes, the roads are wider paved all the way, and that old acacia tree at the junction going to Panagsama Beach is now obscured with new structures. More buses are routing to south and realistically dawn rides barely had stops along the road!  If not for the bus crew alerting us for the stop, we could have slept all along and ended somewhere else! 😊 So, we wind up at Jolibee’s-24H as our refuge while still dark, and had our early coffee there.

Just when day breaks, we hailed a trike that brought us to Ananas Guesthouse and accordingly had our much-needed nap! Just enough to freshen me up until 9am, to have my essentials for the day – my dailies and repacking of needed gears, we were expected for the 10:30am dive schedule at Savedra Dive Center.

Mystical Depths

An eye catching but very significant to divers is this slogan at the diveshop, “Some of us must live underwater.”  It brought me thinking that I can only come for a visit in an hour or so, if only that’s possible – if only…  The wall chart had our names with DM Vernel indicated Pescador Island as our first dive! We organized our gears and had my regulator for necessary check for leaks, in no time we piled up on the dive boat. We had two other divers with our DM, there are two other larger groups in our boat also heading for Pescador.  It was looming before us as we cruised towards the island, there were boats already mooring in a short distance. After the briefing, we assembled with our DM and did our giant stride entry.

See the shrimp?

We navigated south to west (yes, this route made us a full circle of the island!) with our right shoulder to the wall, wonderful critters abound – a juvenile yellow frogfish, twice we encountered stonefish – alone and a couple in another spot, a scorpionfish camouflaged between the corals, lionfish, reef fishes and few bivalves that snapped as we passed by.  Even with the devastation of typhoon Odette in December 2021, which is visible in its terrain yet still the critters thrived and have decorated the wall.  Our DM peeked on corals and crevices for micros – few nudis, coral shrimps and coral crabs were lurking on them almost invisible if not for our DMs keen eyes.  It was just so interesting searching for these tricky invertebrates, you don’t know what you find and I would always wonder that such animals exist! I wouldn’t know if don’t descend in the depths.  We went around floating weightless in silence, now and then I’d look for my buddy as it should be, to be mindful in every beat. Slowly we went up from the wall over a patch of corals, until we have our safety stop. In no time our DM deployed his SMB, I signaled Angel for our ascent.  We all assembled and boarded the boat as it got near to fetch us. I had 55 minutes with 23.8m as deepest, still with 100 bars.

Our pizza lunch was perfect as our surface interval, light but full.  We chose Veranda Kitchen & Bar overlooking the shores for some sea breeze relaxing for the next dive. 

Lunch leftover!

We promptly went back at the dive shop to prepare for the next descent checking our gears, and alas Angel’s dive computer was nowhere in sight! Our last descent as scheduled was at Ludo which was something new to us, our DM informed that the highlight of this site is the sitting Mermaid statue which sound interesting! The plan was a shore dive but, in the end, they got us unto the boat as they were going northwest and just drop us off near our site. We were separated from the large group, so it’s like an exclusive dive for me and Angel because our DM said we had low air consumption compared to others! 😊We gave up looking for the dive computer and went on.

The Mermaid

We did the entry again in giant stride, feeling the warm afternoon waters. In no time, we descend anticipating for some surprise. And there she was surrounded with some rocks, sitting quietly looking up as if waiting for someone to come and join her fantasies! We circled and lingered briefly watching her, then proceed to float silently on the sandy slope. I was glad there was no sighting of trashes, I guess the community have managed well on waste disposal and I remembered clearly in our last dive here, there were no visible trashes.  Sadly though, typhoon Odette have left damage in the coral reefs and still haven’t recovered. Visibly, it isn’t as colorful before but still we had amazing finds among the thriving corals – orange frogfish couple, nudis, anemone shrimp, banded pipefish, moray eel. The rare ghost pipefish was a real surprise too! We floated we got into a large school of scads, then finally the sardines appeared above us! I turned around, all I saw was large throng of the silvery fishes.

Sardines!

And I always find joy in the depths just floating in silence with only the sound of my breathing audible, with the sardines swimming in unison. How marvelous, nature indeed knew how to stage an amazing show! We continued floating in the midst of this trance, absorbing the beauty and wonder until slowly we ascend in the shallows. Swimming toward the channel, we remained underwater for faster navigation. It was a long swim, thankfully the current was just manageable. I kept near especially that Angel don’t have his dive computer.   Finally, we emerged up very near the shores right in the dive shop channel. I needed help walking back to the shop, and luckily, I still had the strength to carry my gears on my own!  I went 66 minutes at 19 meters as deepest, still with 70 bars of air.

Well, the tiring part again was the after dive care of the gears, in our final packing Angel’s dive computer suddenly was found in the corner which put smiles on our faces! 😊 We finally left after things settled walking back leisurely to our lodgings about kilometer away.  I watched sunsets here and even laze around at White Beach but it’s different now as we’re stationed distant from the shores.  Still, Moalboal will always be a favorite go to for my diving escape.

More sardines!

Unwritten Rule

Somehow, our after-dive tradition is to have decent dinner, to compensate for spent energy but mainly to celebrate the good dives, wonderful sightings, good weather and meeting randomly new faces who were kind to us.  To be thankful for this wonderful gift of exploring the depths, not everyone had the opportunity to do so. In my life tapestry, diving is a thread that adds vibrancy and warmth of my being.

Panagsama is now filled-up with lot of establishments not to mention restos and bars lined up along the road, in the night it became a rowdy tourist setting. We settled that evening at Blue Mango Bar after an assessment with others. The next morning, after meeting and thanking our French host we left for the city. We continued to splurge for a sumptuous lunch at Everyday Coffee and Tea in downtown Cebu.😊

We can only celebrate the good things bestowed, life is too short not to be grateful for His abundant graces!

NB. Photos courtesy of http://www.lakwatsero.com

Exploring Sibaltan: A Hidden Gem for Divers

Exploring Sibaltan: A Hidden Gem for Divers

cbartazo

At the start of the year, many agendas were set in place and some of these were plans that were put off for awhile due to other priorities. But just like every year beginnings, so many recurring interruptions occurred just the way it used to be. Nevertheless, terminating my services in my workplace was final and the necessary arrangements have continued carefully and smoothly to cushion the impact of expected bumps of my departure.   Keeping my cool was the least I could do to manage a smooth transition.

Obviously, diving trips is included in the plans for the year. Perhaps to compensate during the pandemic era when I had none for three years and last year with only one dive trip was almost nothing.  Exactly, I need to start off with somewhere new, a place to discover and gain more learnings as I wanted to. And I waited long enough to once again immerse myself in the stillness and silence in the depths!

Sunrise every morning!

Sibaltan has been in my list for some time, coming here though has been shelved momentarily for some valid reasons, visiting this barangay required much longer time than the usual quirky weekend trips.  I managed a brief visit last year during a detour from an official trip and eagerly promised to return in no time for the depths. Marine enthusiasts had been arriving in this remote coastal community for the wonderful rare manta ray sighting.  There are only three (3) sites in the country for mantas and Sibaltan is one! Although I wasn’t sure when but I was resolute to set foot again in this laid-back barangay.

Thankfully, my volunteer works in the town of San Vicente (in March and April) gave me good access to other towns in Palawan, so after my two-month works I went straight to El Nido setting aside four days for the detour. Right, solely for the awaited dives in Sibaltan!  I was like a fish out of water after almost ten months of no dives, my gills were just pretty dried up.

I was aiming for Dive Sibaltan diveshop after a brief encounter with Ms. Rose in my last visit, the good thing was the shop have environment friendly cottages now ready for guests.  And being on the eastern side, it gave an ample view of the beautiful sunrise.  I needed to slow down and decided to have a relaxing night before the scheduled three dives the next day.  Yes, in my comfortable pace.

Eco-friendly cottage at Dive Sibaltan

Apart from El Nido

This northeast barangay forty-one (41) kilometers away is a stark contrast from the main town, far from being congested, rowdy and busy.  It was so peaceful and the locals were very helpful and friendly.  I was just in time when one cottage was vacated few hours after I arrived, so I went for a relaxed long lunch at Floresita’s Beach Resort until 2pm for the check-in.  I love the cottage facing the waterfront, the wide expanse of the horizon was so calming.

View from the cottage veranda

The next morning was slow and unhurried with the lovely sunrise appeared cheerily. I took it as a promise of a wonderful day!  There were two group of divers for that day, I was joined with three Deutsch who were also aiming for the manta, under DM Timur.  I have to use the shop’s stuff for my gears except my dive computer, rarely will I do without my own wetsuit but I had no choice. We all boarded the dive boat with the crew and cruise for “Saan Ka” for about twenty five minutes, where the mantas have four cleaning stations. We all entered the waters in giant stride, one of the Deutsch (Christian) was assigned as my buddy, DM Tim signaled to follow him. We descend to sandy bottom and carefully followed our DM as we hopped from one station to the next, in between were some rocks that sheltered few critters and reef fishes.  The visibility was a little shady, but it was good enough to find blue spotted ray and a turtle. DM Tim inspected a whip and found a skeleton shrimp! We waited after every station stop but the was no sign of mantas.   I spent a good 73 minutes with my deepest at 18.1 meters, my air down to 70 bars.

After an hour of interval, our boat maneuvered and anchored for the Wild East site, which revealed a colorful reef filled with variety of corals – soft, branching, rubber, cabbage as well as barrel sponges. Taking a closer look was good enough to find critters, bivalves that quickly snap as I passed, nudis and a stonefish!  Lots of reef fishes swimming coyly over the reef – chromis, sand perch, batfish, angels, butterfly, banners, wrasses, lizardfish and the ever-wiggling anthias.  😊 Androids, whips and some worms were also tucked between and under crevices.  The second dive had 60 minutes bottom time at 17 meters deepest, still with 100 bars.

Our late lunch served as our surface interval for more than an hour, the boat anchored just of of Binulbulan island.  I had a brief chat also with my buddy Christian and the LAMAVE volunteer for manta ray conservation who joined us in the dives for data works of the day.

DM Tim randomly suggested to try again Saan Ka for our last dive, in case a manta would give us a chance. Out of curiosity I asked the volunteer the usual time that mantas visit the cleaning station, casually Gucci said it’s normally in mid-morning.  So, it would be pure luck if we got one but there’s no harm in trying.  I quickly turned to Christian before we jumped off and asked to hold unto him, just in case I have trouble with my buoyancy during my safety stop of which he said not a problem. 😊

We descend to the sandy bottom carefully observing any signal from DM Tim, we followed him slowly as he carefully peeked on whips, corals and grasses looking for critters.  A blue spotted ray camouflaging on the sand suddenly flipped away as we approached. We leisurely went around on the sandy bottom, a turtle showed up unperturbed of our presence. DM Tim gave it a handful of sea algae which gobbled it hungrily! Then, slowly DM Tim poked something on the sand, it revealed a pair of flounder which quickly wiggled away. I rarely had encounters with flounder, it was interesting.  Then, unexpectedly not far from us, a shadowy figure hovered above the last station over few rocks and corals with fishes swimming coyly. Our DM pointed it out and carefully we came closer watching in awe of the lone manta, it stayed in our midst flapping slowly. We came too close that our DM tugged our fins signaling to move away a little, my buddy and I stayed anchored on the sandy bottom just looking up making most of the remaining time until my NDL was down to 3 minutes. I signaled to our DM for the safety stop as I slowly ascend with a little wave for the manta. It was a success, a wonderful surprise from the wild!  My dive computer went Greek when I was doing my safety stop, which our DM signaled okey until my thumbs up for the ascend. I did 59 minutes with 17.8 meters as deepest, my air still at 70 bars.

We had a cheery mode as we got into the boat, so glad with the sightings until we sailed for the shores. In awe, the encounters affirmed how diverse and mysterious the depths as always.  It was a good decision to be back for the last dive at Saan Ka after all.  Ms. Rose was so glad when she learned we found a manta in our last dive, it’s been more than three weeks since their last sighting. 😊It was another memorable descent, new learnings and successful trip in search of the elusive manta!

Leaving Sibaltan next morning

For me, Sibaltan is a place to be, a hidden gem tucked in its remoteness.  A spot to recharge, relax and appreciate the serenity of rural setting.  And, obviously to be one with nature, to be in the bosom of its depths!

NB.  Sorry, no underwater photos during my dives.

Sunsets and Serenity: Life in Sto. Niño, Palawan

Sunsets and Serenity: Life in Sto. Niño, Palawan

cbartazo

Many of us may not have heard of this remote coastal community in Palawan and if one mention about San Vicente, what comes to mind are Port Barton, Long Beach, Bato ni Ningning, so on. But for me, San Vicente is where Barangay Sto. Niño is, a gem with a productive marine environment rich in diversity.

Here are my few favorite photos from this beautiful paradise!

  • Sunset at the end of each day
  • Voleyball at dusk
  • Fishers left for the night
  • Walk ends at the Bukana
  • That afternoon glow!
  • Hatchlings unto the long journey
  • Peaking at Peak View Resort
  • Blue skies that meet the blue seas
  • Imuruan Island
  • Fiery sunset!
The horizon from Bato ni Ningning

At the end of each day, one can always expect the changing hues in the horizon making it a huge canvas before our very eyes. So lovely, which brings to my mind how wondrous and magnificent the handiworks of the Creator!

My photos were too limited and insufficient to depict the beauty, serenity and splendor of this hidden coastal community and it would be unjust if I wont admit how I love the slow and simple life in Sto. Nino. The place to be if you love to swim in clear waters and watch sunsets at the end of each day!

The LAMAVE Expedition (Sea Turtles, Sweat and Sunsets!) 🐢

The LAMAVE Expedition (Sea Turtles, Sweat and Sunsets!) 🐢

cbartazo

Engaging with volunteer works especially for the marine environment was one of my greatest desires, which was too disturbing to ignore. I did one five years ago relative to data research for marine sanctuary establishment in Southern Leyte and it was a rewarding one. I learned many new things far from what I was doing and I was a changed person.  Indeed, the marine world is an invaluable resource when the Earth is more than 70% water, obviously all forms of life is dependent in our oceans and water ways.  We are all aware that its protection and conservation is not just necessary but mandatory to sustain all of us and the generations to come.

Hatchlings ready for release !

For two years I planned and searched to find one within the country, considering schedules to match applicable season with my work timelines. Randomly, inquired from LAMAVE and evaluate their requirements and was grateful that they don’t limit their volunteers to foreigners.  I aimed for the Marine Turtle Conservation, confident that I can meet sufficiently the field work requirements – walk approximately eight (8) kilometers for beach patrol!  Turtles are remarkable and just one of my favorite specie, my encounters with them in the depths always brings the soft-hearted in me, and I was just enamoured with this graceful and humble critter. Knowing this animal deeply would be interesting and most importantly contributing in its protection and conservation I believe has far-reaching results in the long run.

My two-month stay in the project site was full, each day had important tasks supporting the project staff and other volunteers. I joined the team in March, the turtles were still nesting though not as extensive in the previous months of December, January and February. Beach patrols, data encoding, hatchery checks, excavations, samples processing, as well as information and education campaign collaborating with LGUs and public schools.  We had household chores schedules too, the challenging part was cooking for everyone considering food restrictions and limited sources – there is no supermarket in the barangay!  It was a test of endurance and embracing the limitations and simplicity of rural life.

Hatchlings unto the long journey!

My encounter with marine turtles on the surface during the works was life changing, and realizing the importance for its protection. I learned that hatchlings had a very slim survival as they went for the long journey, so that every turtle existing underwater is a miracle! My favorite part was the hatchling releases which either done early mornings or in nightfall.  One morning check I had more than hundred hatchlings for release, I was alone and few dogs were in the side lines. I can’t wait until later when the sun is up very hot but I feared the dogs would attack when I release them!  Watching the little creatures crawling towards the clear waters was just lovely. Dusks release was even more charming, while waiting for all of them to get the waters we watched the glorious sunset feeling relaxed after the day’s task. Actually, watching sunset is my favorite part of the day! 😊

My tremendous respect for the environment influenced this desire to engage and share my time and resources for the gargantuan task in the preservation of the environment and our common home in general. I am hoping that in my little way this will encourage locals to support and actively involved in many ways to support this mission.  We are all interconnected and what you do to environment ultimately you do to yourself.

I came home with a grateful heart filled with new learnings, gained new friends with similar passion for the environment and a strengthened desire to continue to support for the mission.

NB.

LAMAVE or Large Marine Vertebrate Research Institute of the Philippines is a Filipino non-government organization dedicated to the conservation of marine megafauna. To date, has worked with governments and communities in over 9 provinces in the Philippines.

Diving in Camiguin Again: Escape to Paradise

Diving in Camiguin Again: Escape to Paradise

cbartazo

I had only one dive trip during the year and gratefully I did it in my favorite island, my dive buddy just gave in for that tryst!

That weekend escape was planned way ahead, and it was just right being so tight with work responsibilities. The third quarter had been laden with work plans that needs extra effort, and the depths therapy was needed to recharge. I don’t want to be in rush, so we head for the island on a Friday and commute like it used to be as real traveler. 🙂

It was “me” time so my accommodations was booked way ahead, the dives however was arranged while on our way and thankfully we got confirmed instantly without much fuss. It was a good decision to dive with Scuba de Oro, it was an exclusive dive for us as there were no expected guests on the day. Later in the evening after we took a leisurely walk around town – church to ask mass schedule, halo-halo treat at Viola’s, watch out the shores at the park near the Parola, search for VJandEP shop -we met up with DM Amir for some pleasantries and short briefing for the dives. He was too polite to drop us at La Dolce Vita for our dinner. Angel was craving for authentic pizza and pasta! 🙂

Amir was on the dot the next morning to pick us up, we need to drive further to Benoni as we we’re aiming for Mantigue Island. It was low tide so we need to wade down the water to get unto the small row boat and finally to the dive boat. The cheery weather was promising, but I was wondering if the school of jacks would be still be there since they’re morning critters. The dives concentrated on the island, it was good to be back.

Our first dive was at the Sanctuary aiming for the jacks, the waters was calm as expected. We geared up taking our time, in no time we went in giant stride! It felt good to be in the depths again, feeling weightless and at peace with the silence. Reef fishes just goin around as we slowly kick feeling the warm waters. In no time, the jacks appeared in great display barely moving. They have grown in number though I believe there are still that went astray from the school, and they are now bigger from the last time I saw them! There was triggerfish, anthias, wrasses and more reef fishes. Some sponges , sea cucumbers, whips and few androids. We spent a good 60 minutes with 29.7 meters as my deepest, my air down to 70 from 200 bars.

After an hour of surface interval, the boat headed for Turtle Point to watch once more those giant turtles . We entered in giant stride again and descended unto sandy slope, floating again peacefully watching and observing critters. In no time, turtles came after the other. The current was too mild so we just flow around, reef fishes still abound. We found a giant grouper! As we went shallower, I stumbled garden eels up on their burrows, I love these critters and got for some stop awhile just observing them going up and up! 🙂 We went up on a patch of corals for our safety stop until we signaled for ascent. I went 59 minutes with 20.9 meters as deepest, my air down to 120 bars. I was surprised of my low air consumption, but then it was a relaxing dive so it was good! 🙂 It was lunchtime when we surfaced, so we had some fellowship lunch with the boys.

After our leisure lunch, we sailed back to the shores grateful for the good weather and great dives. Amir brought us back to our lodgings in the Poblacion. It was another great escape in my fave island, the dives were just what I needed after a lull of more than six months. I was grateful too that my favorite dive buddy joined me, it was more than three years after our last dive before the pandemic era.

NB. Sorry, no underwater photos during these dives.