Sunsets and Serenity: Life in Sto. Niño, Palawan

Many of us may not have heard of this remote coastal community in Palawan and if one mention about San Vicente, what comes to mind are Port Barton, Long Beach, Bato ni Ningning, so on. But for me, San Vicente is where Barangay Sto. Niño is, a gem with a productive marine environment rich in diversity.

Here are my few favorite photos from this beautiful paradise!

The horizon from Bato ni Ningning

At the end of each day, one can always expect the changing hues in the horizon making it a huge canvas before our very eyes. So lovely, which brings to my mind how wondrous and magnificent the handiworks of the Creator!

My photos were too limited and insufficient to depict the beauty, serenity and splendor of this hidden coastal community and it would be unjust if I wont admit how I love the slow and simple life in Sto. Nino. The place to be if you love to swim in clear waters and watch sunsets at the end of each day!

The LAMAVE Expedition (Sea Turtles, Sweat and Sunsets!) 🐢

Engaging with volunteer works especially for the marine environment was one of my greatest desires, which was too disturbing to ignore. I did one five years ago relative to data research for marine sanctuary establishment in Southern Leyte and it was a rewarding one. I learned many new things far from what I was doing and I was a changed person.  Indeed, the marine world is an invaluable resource when the Earth is more than 70% water, obviously all forms of life is dependent in our oceans and water ways.  We are all aware that its protection and conservation is not just necessary but mandatory to sustain all of us and the generations to come.

Hatchlings ready for release !

For two years I planned and searched to find one within the country, considering schedules to match applicable season with my work timelines. Randomly, inquired from LAMAVE and evaluate their requirements and was grateful that they don’t limit their volunteers to foreigners.  I aimed for the Marine Turtle Conservation, confident that I can meet sufficiently the field work requirements – walk approximately eight (8) kilometers for beach patrol!  Turtles are remarkable and just one of my favorite specie, my encounters with them in the depths always brings the soft-hearted in me, and I was just enamoured with this graceful and humble critter. Knowing this animal deeply would be interesting and most importantly contributing in its protection and conservation I believe has far-reaching results in the long run.

My two-month stay in the project site was full, each day had important tasks supporting the project staff and other volunteers. I joined the team in March, the turtles were still nesting though not as extensive in the previous months of December, January and February. Beach patrols, data encoding, hatchery checks, excavations, samples processing, as well as information and education campaign collaborating with LGUs and public schools.  We had household chores schedules too, the challenging part was cooking for everyone considering food restrictions and limited sources – there is no supermarket in the barangay!  It was a test of endurance and embracing the limitations and simplicity of rural life.

Hatchlings unto the long journey!

My encounter with marine turtles on the surface during the works was life changing, and realizing the importance for its protection. I learned that hatchlings had a very slim survival as they went for the long journey, so that every turtle existing underwater is a miracle! My favorite part was the hatchling releases which either done early mornings or in nightfall.  One morning check I had more than hundred hatchlings for release, I was alone and few dogs were in the side lines. I can’t wait until later when the sun is up very hot but I feared the dogs would attack when I release them!  Watching the little creatures crawling towards the clear waters was just lovely. Dusks release was even more charming, while waiting for all of them to get the waters we watched the glorious sunset feeling relaxed after the day’s task. Actually, watching sunset is my favorite part of the day! 😊

My tremendous respect for the environment influenced this desire to engage and share my time and resources for the gargantuan task in the preservation of the environment and our common home in general. I am hoping that in my little way this will encourage locals to support and actively involved in many ways to support this mission.  We are all interconnected and what you do to environment ultimately you do to yourself.

I came home with a grateful heart filled with new learnings, gained new friends with similar passion for the environment and a strengthened desire to continue to support for the mission.

NB.

LAMAVE or Large Marine Vertebrate Research Institute of the Philippines is a Filipino non-government organization dedicated to the conservation of marine megafauna. To date, has worked with governments and communities in over 9 provinces in the Philippines.

Out of the Roads Again

The randomness of the road always excites my senses…

The Return to El Nido

Dusk at Baker’s Hill!

That same feeling of adventure hit me again, the innate wonder of the unknown whether it’s one new place or revisiting an old one. So, the same principle of hitting more birds with one stone was the strategy. The work trip in Puerto Princesa last February was a good opportunity, even with lot of work issues we were treated to island hopping at Honda Bay (Starfish Island, Luli Island, Cowrie island) which I love. It’s been almost two decades since my last cruise to this islets, it was a personal one. There has been lot of changes and I was seeing things with different eyes. There are structures now, maybe have enhanced the appearance and accommodation capacity but at the back of my mind, the waste and management disposal is always an issue. The attractions brought more people, boats though controlled are plying between islands more often. Paradise for fun seekers and socmed fanatics who need to update threads with good looking photos! My heart sunk for all the so-called developments…

Had a dip in Cowrie Island!

Eventually my dive plans in the city was cancelled and I chose to head for El Nido, it’s been awhile and almost ten years since my last visit. It was nothing new to be all alone, and there was no definite plans for my detour. Again, randomness felt like going to the unknown and surprises are always at stake. Risk is always better than regret, so they say!

Bacuit Bay, El Nido

I arrived at the transport terminal of El Nido past noon, along the way changes were eminent. The roads are now paved all throughout and lot of structures have sprouted. I hailed a trike to bring me straight to my lodge, the fare was way much higher. I was thinking to just walk with my back pack but the noon sun was scorching so I gave in. My modest room at Lualhati Gardens was just perfect and very accessible to any point in town. This was our same refuge when I first visited to El Nido, it wasn’t spared of changes. The gardens were gone, grounds are cemented and only one tree left standing in between the structures. I went for a walk after I settled my stuff and after inquiring from a sari-sari store, last minute hailed a trike for Las Cabañas to catch the sunset! There were lot of people already in the area lounging perhaps waiting for the sunset like me. :) The golden sunset shone gloriously as the day came to end. When I got back, I watched the guys from my door lively wrapping up post dive tasks, a dive shop is right in the front street of my lodge!

Lunch stop at Snake Island

I was picked up the next morning for an island hopping I booked last minute, the beach front was already full of tourists waiting for their boats. Our first challenge was getting into the boat, wade the waist-deep waters with the surf and hurriedly climb up the gangplank before the big waves could throw you down. Just enough adrenaline to start the adventure! :) The waters was bit rough, so sailing to the islands was not without crashing waves! The good thing was I was joined with matured people, mostly were residing or working abroad. Thankfully, not with shrieking or shouting young ones! :) I kept close to our tour guide as I used to do – they always can give lot of stories, tips, even open up their own living. John was a good-hearted fellow and he speaks Visayan, to my delight! He is a diver too and I told him also my diving trips in El Nido with the Palawan Divers, and was glad to know that some DMs I knew are still around in the town including Yoshi San. I was eyeing of the caves so I chose Tour B, it was sunny but the rough waters didn’t help. During the hopping I keep close to that friendly Ilocano couple who were Guam residents. The waves slowed down our boat, there was a need to shorten the cruise too as the winds might get fiercer in the afternoon. In the end, we only explored the Codugnon Cave which was bit challenging, swimming to the cliff and crawling trough that small entrance. That was tough especially for the oldies but it went well for all of us. We anchored at the shallows of Snake Island, the sand bar strip wasn’t there due to high tide. We waded the waters and trek the small hill getting a good view of the surroundings, in no time we waded back to the boat when the waters getting deep due to high tide. Our group settled there and had a leisure, long lunch surrounded by waters!

Nacpan Beach , I walked away from the crowds…

The next morning John picked me up, I decided a detour to Sibaltan and he offered to bring me there with his motorbike. That was a good decision, I learned from him that all water activities in El Nido for the day was cancelled by PCG due to rough waters. It was a long ride but the rural scenery was refreshing – it was all farm lands, the rice fields are all in different stages, cows & carabaos in the meadows and the greeneries. It was good to catch glimpse of the other side of El Nido, the communities thrive through agriculture. Grateful that the highways are paved, there were only bumps for the detours from the highway like when we search for QiPalawan and few road repairs along the way.

Sibaltan is a coastal barangay on the other side of El Nido town about 41 kilometers away, passing about four other barangays from the town. It was a Tuesday so the community was almost deserted, we went straight at the water front to look for Dive Sibaltan Shop. The super low tide gave us space to drive along the sandy beach. We had a good talk with Ms. Rose (diveshop manager), a group of divers who happened to be LAMAVE volunteers for manta rays research were setting out for the waters for the day’s task. The brief time with Ms. Rose gave me so much information and promised her to be back in near future. We went up to Erlittop Garden Eco Lodge for lunch, enjoying the food watching the horizons basking with nature. It was so serene! On our way back, John was strongly suggesting to detour to Duli Beach, a haven for surfing which wasn’t heard of the last time I was in El Nido. It was packed with surfers mostly foreigners, but the trash were all around was so disturbing. We still have enough time so John went straight to Nacpan Beach – there was so much changes, like many structures have sprouted. Few bars, tattoo parlor, massage parlor, restos and even some place for lodging. And again, so much trashes abound in the area. You cant go up anymore to the hill to get the view of the twin beaches – Calitang and Nacpan, the property was closed already for outsiders. The site have literally become crowded!

Dive shop right at Lualhati Garden!

I arrived in my lodgings before dark which gave me enough time to walk at the water front to catch a glimpse of the sunset. The next morning, I walked to the water front again earlier before the day’s bustle. The people were just few moving around, quiet unusual for a rural community. I left El Nido with a new perception of what this little town have become after almost ten years. I had beautiful memories of the town when I first came and even the second time when both I had the opportunity to dive its diverse depths!

Anew in the Highlands

Strawberry fields forever!

We had a quick travel to Misamis Occidental for work in March to catch up with our timelines. And I didn’t know there was something in store for us. It was a long road, as we chose not to cruise to Ozamis City from Mukas due to long queue of vehicles at the port. We visited the towns in our itinerary and spent overnihgt at Oroquieta City. Our last stop was Don Victoriano Chiongbian (aptly dubbed as Don Vic), a little town tucked at the foot of Mt. Malindang. My work brought me here more than a decade ago for a special project, and we even spent overnight once in those trips. Just like any elevated community, it had temperate weather and going to bath with freezing water was the last thing you wanted!

Fresh, luscious strawberry fruit!

There was much changes too, all the road are now paved and I noticed lot of structures along the way when it used to be deserted. The town hall got even better and there was more activity, more people and more improvements. After a short meeting and our mission done, we left for the farm. The town is now a proud producer of strawberries!

Our visit turn out to be a discovery of farmlands now planted with strawberries, what was more interesting was the berries were sweet and in dark red color. The farm that we visited was less than hectare, but the harvests gave the lowly farmer a decent income twice a week. The volcanic soil was giving enough nutrients suitable for the berries. The stories we heard from the farmers was an inspiration. It was a success story for the farmers in Don Vic! That night on the road, I was still thinking about what we discovered from the little town on our way to Cagayan de Oro.

There’s a good reason to be back in the summer capital of Misamis Occidental!

Escape to San Isidro

Leaving for Ormoc…

There are still parts of eastern Visayas that have remained unexplored, while I spent a month in the south of Leyte for that marine volunteer works, the northern part was still uncharted. So, with an invitation from a retired work mate who had just built a vacation house in San Isidro we planned a summer break to this remote town hoping for a new discovery. I ended up alone, my two friends backed out for various reasons – the usual thing! :)

So one Thursday morning I flew to Cebu, went downtown and just like my previous visits in the queen city of the south, did my homage at Basilica Minore de Sto. Niño. I guess it felt like there’s something missing if I missed the visit. Fortunately, I was able to have a brief meet-up with a college friend having office nearby at the City Hall which is just a stone throw from the basilica and Magellan’s Cross! Yes, two hits with one stone. Then on, rush to port and took the ferry to Ormoc which I also look forward since I haven’t been into the city before. :) The cruise in the vast blue seas was smooth and we arrived as scheduled. It was perfect timing, my friend and family were downtown so that I had transportation for the drive to their hometown which was almost 80 kilometers away. The rural setting along the road was very welcoming! It was a long day, it was night time already when we arrived home.

Dusks in San Isidro is decorated with golden hues!

It was a real vacation I guess – eat, relax, fresh air and quite neighbourhood. Just few meters away is the beach and every morning fishers bring fresh catch. We joined the locals, strolled around, watched afternoon games for their coming fiesta. There was that glorious sunset in the dusk, everyday! We drove to Biliran asking directions along the way, explored neighbouring communities and was surprised to find a Jollibee outlet in such remote town! :)

Basilica Minore del Sto. Niño in blue hour

I went the same route for my return and thankfully my friend drive me off to Ormoc for my ferry ride to Cebu. An overnight stay at Cebu Century Plaza Hotel was good enough, and since it was Sunday I went for the holy mass at the basilica. I left early the next morning for the airport to catch my flight back to CdeO. I still hold on to my theory that seeing one new place is a door to a new world. The escape to this obscure remote town of San Isidro gave me fresh eyes for that side of the country. 🙂

And it always brings me joy when I came home after new discoveries, it’s empowering I guess. Travelling alone will make you stronger ready to embrace what’s ahead during the journey!

Emerging from Cocoons!

Everyone is slowly, with caution and being very measured and very careful emerging out of their cocoons, now looking around and figuring out what they can do.  I guess for travelers like me, there has been lot of plans especially for trips – places to visit or revisit and activities to do – all of which everyone is dying to savor once again. For me, I’ve been missing the trips and the randomness of being on the road.

Slowly, I’m preparing myself to get back into the groove, those that would lead to where and what I love – the depths!  Also, I’ve been longing for those treks and being on top of heights.  Few of my planned hustles in the next semester is now in order, and I can’t wait! 😊

Dive in Mantangale and Camiguin

I have been dying to be back in my element, it’s unbelievable that it’s been two years since my last dive.  So for my quickie trip, my go-to abode for diving will always be Mantangale, Balingoan. And more than just for the dives, the place is perfect for other activities to unwind after a long week. One can sit quietly by the beach watching the horizons colored in perfect shades of blue, with the island born of fire at a distance!

Speaking of island, my favorite island of Camiguin is a haven for diving with thirty (30) dive sites all over, some of which are hard to beat. Aside from its natural wonders – falls, volcano, hot & cold spring, white beach, soda spring, so on – visit to the island is not complete without diving in its pristine reefs.

             Mantangale Alibuag Dive  Resort Inc. (MADRI)

             Balingoan, Misamis Oriental

            www.mantangale.com

            Mobile No. 0917 801 4560 or 0916 303 9415

            Camiguin Soul Divers

            Looc Tupsan, Mambajao, Camiguin

            www.camiguinsouldivers.com

            Mobile No. 0919 925 8453

Back to Isla

Busan Grande group has always been favorite get away, especially in those times when I just want for some quiet sojourn.  A place where one can find comfort surrounded with blue and green waters while listening to crashing waves, yet secluded from great structures.  Most importantly, its inhabitants are organized communities that are involved in protecting and preserving their invaluable resources.  They perfectly understood that nobody would do it for them except themselves and its protection is their ultimate mission if not sustain this nature’s gift endowed for their livelihood. The coastal communities around the islands believed in their heart that natural resources are always worth the effort in its preservation and protection as legacy for the next generation.

            Sohoton Grande Tours

            SAVE Sohoton Org.

            Mobile No. 0985 146 5670

Go Climb Once More

Just few days when I get back at work, my trekking group welcomed me with a trip plan and what a joy! So they were saying after 2ndQ hustles, we will go for a camping trip, They will make the necessary  arrangements with friends in South Cotabato.  The good thing is, I’ll tag along with them just leaving everything to their command.

Lake Holon trails just opened again for public after a lull during the pandemic, it was launched last March 12 spearheaded by Tboli Tourism Office and this was good news for all.  Actually, it’s like shooting two birds for this trek, climb Mt. Melingoy (Mt. Parker) and camp at Lake Holon. Another nature’s surprises await for this trip!

Napantao: Paradise in the South

Whale shark abound the area and we were lucky during our hunt before leaving the Expedition!

The CCC Expedition required me to stay for a whole month in the base camp located in one of the most diverse coast along Sogod Bay. Napantao is one of the 22 barangays of San Francisco, a lowly coastal town in Southern Leyte.  Remote and unheard of, out of the tourism radar even for diving.

My stay was brief but long enough to observe and experience the diverse marine life on its front waters.  It was however, for my eyes only since photo shoots were not allowed or never part  during the training and survey dives.  In some way, it was a good opportunity to focus on the existing marine life in the surrounding reefs. Actually, a volunteer should be mindful and must stay focused, accuracy is necessary. In many instances, I was too engrossed on the lessons and actual exams underwater and so unconsciously ignored species in one way or another.  Like, if the agenda was Invertebrates & Impacts I will easily ignore the fishes and other marine life; or if our aim was for the Substrates, my eyes will search for the corals, sponges, rocks, mud, so on. My eyes were out for the day’s mission – no more, no less.

Yet, I could not undermine the richness of the surrounding waters which has been my training ground and the scenery at the end of each day. I caught glimpse of them every time after our second dive for the day. If we have more time, we swam back slowly over the reefs, wiggled among the big boulders and watch the colorful corals and variety of fishes. The surgeons, a group of damsels over there, a pair of trumpet fish darting from behind, brown and yellow box fish, a swarm of blue fusiliers and the different chromis in colors.  Then I encountered a goliath grouper, it was unbelievably huge, it was roaming around perhaps looking for prey. I was just watching at a distance, it’s unethical to go near and disturb them.  Indeed, one should have a tremendous respect even for the marine animals.  Those giant spadefish that swam coyly every exit or approach in the channel, reminding me to relax and to take easy on a daily basis.

One morning, we woke up wondering that a luxury boat anchored in the front waters, only to find out it was a dive cruise spending whole day for the dives. And regularly, dive boats from Padre Burgos cruised to Napantao for diving bringing their guests, which for me brought home that surrounding waters is tremendously rich with marine life.

I will always think and believe that this coastal barangay is a legendary dive site and marine habitat. The soft waves riveting the blue waters and the golden hues of sunset at the end of each day were great reminders of God’s wondrous works. And there was much beyond the surface, the fish sanctuary and surrounding reef were filled with colorful marine life keeping in balance its marine ecosystem and sustaining the valuable resources of its community.

NB. Above photo was courtesy of FBM Gareth Turner