"Now more than ever do I realize that I will never be content of a sedentary life on the surface, I will always be haunted by thoughts of being drenched elsewhere"….
Wreck as artificial reef tangled with soft corals making it home of marine life.
Rolls of interlink wires now calcified after more than 70 years underwater!
Penetrating Kyokuzan Maru, no fear of the dark!
This flatworn was spotted in Irako!
This tiny nudibranch blended with colorful soft corals
Sea squirts grown like flowers covered steel parts of ship wreck
Tangles of purple corals decorated side borad of East Tangat Wreck
Hundreds of bags of cement turn rock hard pillows inside Irako Maru
Coron is one of those places I kept coming back, more than its pristine beaches, crystal waters, stunning views and friendly people, I love its mystery beyond the surface. In our fifth homecoming we dove at Irako Maru, Kogyu Maru and the East Tangat Wreck. Penetrating the holes and the darks inside the monsters always blew me away!
“Why and what did take us too long to be back in Malapascua?”
Our first visit to this northern most island in Cebu almost three years ago was in many ways memorable, I was struck when I first set foot on its shores. I remembered I was almost running on the white sandy beach after I jumped out from the boat towards our simple cottage. This is a backpacker’s dream spot, I thought. Although we missed the thresher sharks at Monad Shoal, we had a great time discovering Kalanggaman Island and its depths. The place is practically left with time, no exact road network. No pave streets but a criss-cross of trails for motorbikes to traverse to any point of the island. Practically a flat site similar to Maldives, like 6-10 meters above sea level.
Well, coming to exotic place is always posed with challenges, with everything in place the weather was our only possible hindrance. So, a typhoon came affecting Visayas & Mindanao and on the morning of my flight it was pouring rain! It was almost cancelled but was grateful we made it when the skies over CdeO cleared, Angel was already waiting in Cebu.
Long – Awaited Return
We arrived Maya port past noon already with the sun shining bright, actually the heat was scorching which was to our advantage, obviously the weather would offer good visibility for the dives. Wishing to reach the shores fast but our cruise to the island slowed down as if teasing us again – the island looming larger in view as we approached. The water taxi (tunda) was there to meet us and transport in groups finally to the station just near our dive shop. It was good to see again Ms. Amelia of Divelink, somehow it’s more comfortable to dive with people you knew and trusted, unfortunately the DM assigned to us before had left the island already.
The perennial clown fish was there to welcome us!
We left hurriedly after the necessary arrangements for the next day dives, with no decent meals since last night dinner, at 4pm we were both starving. Before we settled in our lodgings we had a meal summarized in one – well, fitting for my abstinence! Actually we devoured our pasta and salad.
Our alarms went off at 4am the next morning, we need to be early as the assembly time was at 445am. My second time to be up that early for a dive – only for the threshers! After the long wait, Angel and I both hoped that we will encounter this phenomenal specie. It was still dark as we got to the shop. We were joined with five Thai divers, who all looked Filipino to me.
Monad Shoal
We had a thresher shark show!
The shoal is a mound that rose up from 250m depths, it had walls with sandy slope that created like a plateau, where the sharks converge every morning for the cleaning, the wrasses having early breakfast in return. In short, they are co-mensal to each other. There were five boats already anchored as we approached the area, we were the last to arrive I guess. The cold waters splashed as we all entered in giant step one by one, we all went for the line for the descent. At 10 meters, Angel and I had our first morning surprise when two threshers quickly appeared in view swimming restlessly as if looking for a cleaner wrasse. So beautiful, it’s there with its long tail and prominent dorsal fins! We were lead by our guide James down to the wall at the viewing deck, where the divers lined up waiting for the threshers to appear. Practically, it was a sit and wait activity as we were told during the briefing – like watching a movie! No one is allowed to swim around or cross the viewing ground so as not to disturb them, the air bubbles from the tank can scare the sharks mistaking it as fishing nets – based on research and observation.
Practically, it was a sit and wait activity…
Indeed, after awhile threshers came to the ground intermittently when it reached five I stop counting and just enjoyed the view. Obviously I dismissed all other marine life in the area but like others focused alone on the sharks. But Angel said, there were at least eleven sightings of threshers. We went further but stayed close to the wall with James and found more, we went back to the viewing deck as other divers left the area. The last shark I had went nearer and it was a face to face encounter – those glassy round eyes gazing and its tail finning for swift movements averting its directions as if teasing me then. It felt so beautiful I wanted to cry but quickly reminded myself my tears won’t allow me to see clearly the sharks. I still wanted to linger on ground holding the line but my dive guide signaled for my dive computer, alas my NDL was down to 3 minutes! He summoned me for the ascent, Angel was already moving up away to the slope. It was so amazing I hardly took any photos, it was truly magical only your heart and mind captured the scene!
I still had the adrenaline rush I carried the tank on my back up the boat (which is rare) and gave Angel a quick warm hug for an afterglow of the incredible thresher sharks encounter. It was overwhelming I can’t contain, it was worth the wait…
Gato Island
Our two remaining dives was scheduled at Gato, an uninhabited island shaped like a cat in back view, off the coast of Malapascua about 30 minutes away on boat. We were joined with two other lady divers (foreigners too) with DM Nick. The Thai divers still joining, we were divided into two groups as we increase in number, reasonable as the site requires more care and work.
Reef sharks in a cavern in Gato island, Malapascua (Photo credits to Angel)
From distance, the island looks ordinary and bleak – like a big boulder punctuated with few trees and vegetation, it has a guard house being an MPA but the surrounding waters was raging. DM Nick briefed us to search overhangs and crevices and the possibility of currents. We descend on a slope decorated with soft corals, tropical fishes, sea stars, clams, urchins and more. Most surprising was the sighting of white tip shark hiding under an overhang, I think it was resting or sleeping unmindful of its visitors. It was a big one, it can’t just wiggle away from us! We found a juvenile yellow frogfish, so cute it sat on the sand near the urchin. DM Nick inspected anemones and we found too cleaner shrimp and few nudis. We went around on some rocks and found another big white tip under a crevice, sleeping again. Well, white tips are nocturnal so they went to hunt prey on night when other critters are sleeping. The shark sightings in the shallows was a real treat for me and Angel, it was unexpected. We ascend after 49 minutes with my air still at 80 bars.
Juvenile yellow frogfish – rare find!
After more than an hour of surface interval we geared up for the last descent, which according to DM Nick was a mini-cave dive. We listened intently for the instructions, reminders and demo how to fin once inside – our careless movement can cause clouding up the sands. We will traverse the dark tunnel about 30 meters long, so we need to light up our torch as we enter the waters. The boat moored near the guardhouse but the water was still raging. Our group entered the waters and swam first for the spot which was an advantage as we will get the viewing first! With our torches on, we headed for the dark carefully finning, it was wide enough to accommodate us. The overhangs partly concealed the area, then we stop quietly perching controlling our buoyancy as if waiting for a scene. Lo and behold, slowly looming were white tips swimming coyly, circling around five in all like a family – big, medium and a pup. A pair of trevally or jacks was playing, glistening as I point my torch on them. Hovering nearby were group of snappers and few groupers. Such a wonderful sight – watching these creatures in their own habitat!
Can you find the anemone shrimp?
We proceed to traverse the tunnel and went to a sandy slope punctuated with soft corals, headed to a reef and were surprised when a white tip quickly passed by and disappeared in a blink of an eye. We sighted banded sea snake – a pair of juveniles and a big one slithering on the corals. There was a lionfish, anemone fish and the shy moray eel. Keen eyes were needed for the macros, the cleaner shrimp and the jumping juvenile scorpionfish didn’t escape DM Nick’s searching mode. We surfaced after 56 minutes with my air still at 100 bars. Exhausted and the waters still choppy, I hold on to Angel as we swam back to boat. Still overwhelmed we were asking ourselves as we took our seats on the boat, “Why did it take us too long to be back in Malapascua?”
The shy moray eel…
Simply Euphoric
High in spirits, we chatter now and then about the sharks – at the diveshop, on our way to the lodge, during dinner, in the sleeping room. Angel declared it as his best dive, next to Tubbataha cruise I commented. Indeed, you’ll never know the mystery of an island – more than on the surface. Many are paradise in the depths, its unspeakable grandeur is more than what the eyes can see. This trip was without challenges but turned out to be about sharks – a great sharks day. And guess what, the proverbial rainbow appeared before us as we cruise back to Maya port the following morning, its other end in Gato Island! It wasn’t drizzling and the early morning sun decorated the horizons, yet the rainbow – right, our heavenly sign of a blissful trip…
A natural pool tucked in Magpupungko Beach in Pilar, Siargao Island. It is a tidal pool exposed only during low tide, one of the deep crevice along the shore covered with waters during high tide but creates a jade green wide waters when the tide subside, perfect for swimming and snorkeling. It’s deepest part is about 18 feet on low tide. While swimming you can get the view and sound of the crashing waves to the shore, creating an infinity effect. Rock formations abound nearby, the largest of which is the Mapupungko Rock – a diamond shape rock sitting on top of flat rock as if suspended for some time before rolling off.
Just one of the nature’s wonders in Siargao Island!
Water is always life giving – the gushing of falls, the cold pools, the showers and whitish foams is without doubt reviving. Remembering Kawasan Falls of Badian, a southern town of Cebu.
Before my page would gather cobwebs, I am writing this account as we had finally explored the depths of main island Camiguin. We had our original schedule in May but chose over the transplantation works in the Linamon Project, catching the last Saturday of the month when my dive buddy came over. Now, I just thought it was an important moment, not only because we finally explored these coveted sites, it was the birthday trip of my favorite dive buddy!
We did the usual routines on our weekend trips – Friday dinner, packing-up gears, four hours sleep, early bus drive and sleepy ride to the site. I was grateful our DM suggested for lodgings near the sites to save time and costs, it was comfortable enough and not costly. We took the jeepney from Benoni port to Mambajao as suggested again by our DM, than taking the costly motorbike ride, then finally took the tricycle to Barangay Agoho. We were biding our time just like in our previous travels, just allowing things fell into its place as it was still early.
Lava rocks in Old Vulcan
In our first descent, from Brgy. Yumbing, our boat brought us to Old Volcano site – the spot where the fierce eruption of the Vulcan transforming the island what it is now today. Navigating through blue waters against the green mountain ranges for about 30 minutes – it was an exclusive dive for us. The rustic Camiguin always fascinated me – it was pretty sunny and just perfect for the much needed dives, it’s been twelve weeks since our last dive!
Back rolling for our first descent, the cold waters refreshed me from the “summer” heat. Agreeing to limit our depths to 35 meters, we didn’t waste time going down. Boulders and lava rocks were visible though covered now with colorful corals and crinoids. We passed by in crevices, as if some kind of large cracks now covered with soft and hard corals plus variety of fish species claiming as their abode. There were sea fans in yellow, green and violet scattered in the area, one was so wide it obscured my way. Enjoying the rich diversity and making sure my buddy in sight, I inspected closely some crevices, then in complete surprise I saw the manta ray passing quickly away, but without missing its graceful flapping as in flying! Rare and wonderful. Angel and our DM was making signs and noticed it so late.
Violet seafan – so wide!
We agreed earlier to make the first two dives and take late lunch so we could spend more time at the Sunken Cemetery, I never had a close encounter of the big Cross and so the idea was just perfect. We took those small boats for rent to the marker – funny because at first the friendly bangkero was asking if we will swim to the spot! We spent the whole stretch of our surface interval at the marker dismissing hunger – for Angel’s climb on the big cross and for the endless photos. Our boat man served as our photographer, and honestly he took good shots! 🙂
Cross marker now tangled with corals
Our next descent was intriguing, I always enjoy unknown sites because there is much to explore and there is much to tell after the discovery. Sunken Cemetery has been a dream site – so near, yet so far. It was a sandy slope with more or less stable depth, never a drop-off, I guess cemeteries are normally plain. There were variety of corals in different shapes and colors, sponges, worms, crinoids and fishes – anthias, shrimpfish, lions, angels, bannerfish, snappers and more. Indeed, we found the cross markers now tangled with corals, not only two but three – the last one was when we were about to have our safety stop! All of them almost buried with the corals on them. I was hoping to find skulls and bones, but it is impossible after two centuries of the eruption. Either the remains were deeply buried in the depths, or blown into pieces or swept away with tides and currents. The spot now has now turned into a marine paradise. Finally, the discovery after five years – of the ancient part of this island! I have to hold on with Angel to keep me steady during our safety stop perhaps I was already too famished to control my ascent. My favorite buddy always knew my need with just one look!
A stonefish resting between corals
Our late lunch at Terrasi served as our surface interval for our last dive. We quickly sailed for fifteen minutes to Black Forest, a sanctuary off the coast of White Island. The sand bar still with people, enjoying the mild afternoon sun. My first sighting as we got the depths was a handful of garden eels almost half up but as soon as I got near them, they quickly disappear. There was moray eel whose mouth and eyes closed, which I found unusual perhaps it was sleepy already. There were crinoids, worms, perennial lionfish, clownfish & anthias. We caught site too of few miniature nudis, cleaner shrimp lurking in the anemones and clams. There was stonefish too, and the friendly lowly turtle swam coyly before us – well, Angel chased it again for photos! We surfaced after 54 minutes with my air still at 1200 psi.
An afterglow after our third dive!
Lacking sleep the dives sapped my energy but the three wonderful dives made me smile as I drift off to sleep. The Island Born of Fire is truly magical and I will always love this paradise. I have more than hundred reasons to come here again and again and again.
Life in the Great Beyond 
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