"Now more than ever do I realize that I will never be content of a sedentary life on the surface, I will always be haunted by thoughts of being drenched elsewhere"….
A natural pool tucked in Magpupungko Beach in Pilar, Siargao Island. It is a tidal pool exposed only during low tide, one of the deep crevice along the shore covered with waters during high tide but creates a jade green wide waters when the tide subside, perfect for swimming and snorkeling. It’s deepest part is about 18 feet on low tide. While swimming you can get the view and sound of the crashing waves to the shore, creating an infinity effect. Rock formations abound nearby, the largest of which is the Mapupungko Rock – a diamond shape rock sitting on top of flat rock as if suspended for some time before rolling off.
Just one of the nature’s wonders in Siargao Island!
Water is always life giving – the gushing of falls, the cold pools, the showers and whitish foams is without doubt reviving. Remembering Kawasan Falls of Badian, a southern town of Cebu.
Before my page would gather cobwebs, I am writing this account as we had finally explored the depths of main island Camiguin. We had our original schedule in May but chose over the transplantation works in the Linamon Project, catching the last Saturday of the month when my dive buddy came over. Now, I just thought it was an important moment, not only because we finally explored these coveted sites, it was the birthday trip of my favorite dive buddy!
We did the usual routines on our weekend trips – Friday dinner, packing-up gears, four hours sleep, early bus drive and sleepy ride to the site. I was grateful our DM suggested for lodgings near the sites to save time and costs, it was comfortable enough and not costly. We took the jeepney from Benoni port to Mambajao as suggested again by our DM, than taking the costly motorbike ride, then finally took the tricycle to Barangay Agoho. We were biding our time just like in our previous travels, just allowing things fell into its place as it was still early.
Lava rocks in Old Vulcan
In our first descent, from Brgy. Yumbing, our boat brought us to Old Volcano site – the spot where the fierce eruption of the Vulcan transforming the island what it is now today. Navigating through blue waters against the green mountain ranges for about 30 minutes – it was an exclusive dive for us. The rustic Camiguin always fascinated me – it was pretty sunny and just perfect for the much needed dives, it’s been twelve weeks since our last dive!
Back rolling for our first descent, the cold waters refreshed me from the “summer” heat. Agreeing to limit our depths to 35 meters, we didn’t waste time going down. Boulders and lava rocks were visible though covered now with colorful corals and crinoids. We passed by in crevices, as if some kind of large cracks now covered with soft and hard corals plus variety of fish species claiming as their abode. There were sea fans in yellow, green and violet scattered in the area, one was so wide it obscured my way. Enjoying the rich diversity and making sure my buddy in sight, I inspected closely some crevices, then in complete surprise I saw the manta ray passing quickly away, but without missing its graceful flapping as in flying! Rare and wonderful. Angel and our DM was making signs and noticed it so late.
Violet seafan – so wide!
We agreed earlier to make the first two dives and take late lunch so we could spend more time at the Sunken Cemetery, I never had a close encounter of the big Cross and so the idea was just perfect. We took those small boats for rent to the marker – funny because at first the friendly bangkero was asking if we will swim to the spot! We spent the whole stretch of our surface interval at the marker dismissing hunger – for Angel’s climb on the big cross and for the endless photos. Our boat man served as our photographer, and honestly he took good shots! 🙂
Cross marker now tangled with corals
Our next descent was intriguing, I always enjoy unknown sites because there is much to explore and there is much to tell after the discovery. Sunken Cemetery has been a dream site – so near, yet so far. It was a sandy slope with more or less stable depth, never a drop-off, I guess cemeteries are normally plain. There were variety of corals in different shapes and colors, sponges, worms, crinoids and fishes – anthias, shrimpfish, lions, angels, bannerfish, snappers and more. Indeed, we found the cross markers now tangled with corals, not only two but three – the last one was when we were about to have our safety stop! All of them almost buried with the corals on them. I was hoping to find skulls and bones, but it is impossible after two centuries of the eruption. Either the remains were deeply buried in the depths, or blown into pieces or swept away with tides and currents. The spot now has now turned into a marine paradise. Finally, the discovery after five years – of the ancient part of this island! I have to hold on with Angel to keep me steady during our safety stop perhaps I was already too famished to control my ascent. My favorite buddy always knew my need with just one look!
A stonefish resting between corals
Our late lunch at Terrasi served as our surface interval for our last dive. We quickly sailed for fifteen minutes to Black Forest, a sanctuary off the coast of White Island. The sand bar still with people, enjoying the mild afternoon sun. My first sighting as we got the depths was a handful of garden eels almost half up but as soon as I got near them, they quickly disappear. There was moray eel whose mouth and eyes closed, which I found unusual perhaps it was sleepy already. There were crinoids, worms, perennial lionfish, clownfish & anthias. We caught site too of few miniature nudis, cleaner shrimp lurking in the anemones and clams. There was stonefish too, and the friendly lowly turtle swam coyly before us – well, Angel chased it again for photos! We surfaced after 54 minutes with my air still at 1200 psi.
An afterglow after our third dive!
Lacking sleep the dives sapped my energy but the three wonderful dives made me smile as I drift off to sleep. The Island Born of Fire is truly magical and I will always love this paradise. I have more than hundred reasons to come here again and again and again.
Seize this moment now, as there might be no chance next time…
Coming to Sohoton is always a joy and even how brief and quick my hop few days back it was a great way to welcome summer and a refreshing break from work. After two months I was back, but this time with Angel after three years when he first came to Butuan and Surigao to catch glimpse of Northeast Mindanao. It was some kind of homecoming especially that he wanted to dine at Margie’s for his cravings!
On the Move
Although it meant long road trip for Angel, he decided to have his entry and exit point in Cagayan de Oro which I was grateful as I have a companion during the rides. So after three hours of sleep on Friday night and sneaking from home, our escape started too early when we catch the 330am King long bus for Butuan, and after more than five hours took another bus and at noon reached Bad-as, Placer with the rains constantly pouring on our way. Thankful that the summer sun is brightly shining while at Bad-as, we waited for more than an hour before the van left to Port Hayanggabon in Claver, with our boat already waiting. Watching the blue waters and feeling the fresh air as we drove along the coastal towns gave a spirit lift wanting to reach my haven sooner. We rode the afternoon waves cruising to the islands, and as if to welcome us the waves kept splashing on us and gave a shower of salt water on our skin. It kept us swinging as we drew near with smiles on our faces, but halfway the waters cleared and we sped off straight to Cinnamon. The POs cottage had been prepared ready to embrace us for the remaining precious hours in my little paradise.
Dusk at Port Hayanggabon
Not wanting to waste time, we rushed off with our guide Reggie to Marka A Island, a rock mountain islet in green vegetation surrounded with blue waters with small patch of beach. Angel and I wanted to freshen our gills as it’s been four weeks since our last dive. From our yellow small boat, we jumped off to the waters to swim and snorkel, indeed we were not disappointed. The sandy slope was decorated with variety of corals – most are table corals in different colors and sizes punctuated with variety of fish species. Trumpet fishes, Moorish idol, damsels, anemone fishes, pipefish. Sweetlips, fusiliers and lot more. A bluish boxfish wiggling its way from us, he hid away down the corals as it noticed us following him. We drifted with the late afternoon current as we watched the scenery below us, as we swam shallower we caught glimpse of striped fish in herd camouflaging as one big fish, then a pair of trumpets attacked them and they scattered but grouped back again, the poor herd was bullied at least twice. We swam to the small white beach as the waters getting colder joining other people there. We lingered for some time in the shallow waters with the orange horizon beyond as the day’s sun ebbed down.
Watching sunset with its crepuscular rays while on the waters…
One Night Magical
It was getting dark when we rushed back in our refuge in Cinnamon, only kerosene lamps illumined the place creating a warm glow in the dark. As usual the singing cicadas cutting the stillness of the night, coupled with the waves in the nearby shore was all the audible sounds you have in the island. Our nipa & bamboo cottage was just perfect for a good night’s rest without doubt, it was such ideal for unwinding after a long week at work. Our sumptuous dinner of fresh and organic food under the canopy of stars with fresh sea air in candlelight was just lovely! Something that is very rare in the city. And finishing it off with fresh cinnamon tea, felt like one fresh pot was not enough for me and Angel, after we tried concocting it with honey, and later with calamanci extract! We enjoyed too the company of PO staff who seemed to accommodate every wishes we had. Retiring for the night was all we need after a long day with lack of sleep, our fresh linens seemed to beckon. Imagine sleeping with open windows, cicadas singing, waves rolling with the stars above, then few fireflies inside our cottage hovering up – rare sight on summer months! This is what living in rural setting is all about – so natural, organic and unaffected – away from the complexities of city life. Unending stories until we drift off to sleep….
Water, Water Everywhere
Nothing is refreshing than waking up with gentle sea breeze blowing and sounds of rolling waves nearby, with the morning twilight in the horizons. We need to start early to make most of our time but not without getting an idyllic breakfast near the shore. Watching the horizons, while sipping our cappuccino – again in candle light. C’est la vie! The hopeless romantic in me was completely absorbed in such opulence feeling like were in a beach villa overlooking the shore.
Green waters and lush green vegetation
Our visit to the islands was not complete without seeing our jelly friends, it was our first stop for the day, we sped off to the reception center and transferred on a small banca. We paddled our way with our guide, that same placid lagoon that housed million of stingless jellyfishes. But to our dismay, it wasn’t on its peak yet, only few of the brown jellies were matured and the rest of the population was still too small. By estimates, they will be full grown by June yet – somehow they were affected by climate changes, perhaps. We got off from the banca to snorkel for awhile, playing few of the jellies that came near us but again to our dismay, the guide told us to be back on the boat. Swimming with the jellies was not allowed anymore! The swim was brief but perhaps enough for now…
It started to drizzle when we sped off to Sohoton Cove, the tide slowly subsiding. It always gave me that sense of wonder every time passing that opening for the cove. It’s intriguing that under the semi-cave shade, one could hardly get the chance to explore the entrance with the fierce currents, the deep blue waters mesmerizing. Variety of plants grew on the rock islets – iron wood, pitcher plant, agoho tree and more species that can survive on rocks rather than soil. Our first stop was the Hagukan Cave which was indeed snoring when we got there. The vacuum inside gave that sound as the water wasn’t low enough yet, the entrance still almost covered with water. Angel and I jumped off, and a guide led me to swam deep and got inside, I was gasping when I float up! We linger for a moment and swam inside feeling the cold and warm waters.
Entrance to Hagukan Cave
We sailed next to Magkakaub Cave catching two boatful of tourists, Angel all beaming suggested for the jump – which was precisely the reason for getting there. We went last from the other guests, but rock climbing in the cave seems easier now after some time of doing it again and again. But alas – I still have to gather the courage to jump which I did eventually, and even for Angel! The great splash was too liberating – I will do it again and again until I still have the strength to climb for the cave exit. J I still wanted to swim but we were such in a rush for lack of time. We sailed back for our return with the rain pouring – as if some great blessing was poured on us from heaven!
The cottage was in full motion when we got there preparing for guests on lunchtime, we just need to freshen up and pack although my heart wanted to stay longer. We went nearby with Roldan to gather some fresh cinnamon barks, the island is blessed with these trees scattered around and which they utilized as welcome drink for guests. Our fresh buko was ready, but choose to have it during our meals. I wanted to slow down as our stay nearing its end – how pathetic we barely had twenty hours in the islands! Our sumptuous lunch glued us for some time on our table – the fresh fish, the soup, the buko – everything delectable and natural to our liking.
Leaving Home
The Bucas Grande group has been a home for me and Cinnamon is exactly the spot where I can relax and be comfortable like my first home. I can snorkel and swim in the waters just few steps from the cottage or I can just laze around in the small patch of white beach or simply sit on the porch and watch the endless horizon beyond. It is an environmentalist’s dream.
We rode the waves on our small boat under the blazing noon sun, but promising myself to be back again in its bosom to explore more of the islands – like that elusive cave that traverse to another barangay or even to try diving in its turquoise waters. And just like when we come, the sea water flashing gave us some shower as if to bid bye. Our brief stay was incredibly uplifting and wonderful and I was wishing I could have stayed for another day. Surely, there are reasons to be back again in Sohoton.
Notes:
Sohoton National Park is a protected area – terrestrial or coastal. The communities within the Bucas Grande islands are organized – fisherfolk, women, youth – duly registered. These rural groups were recipients and partners in community-based resource management program for coastal communities. SAVE Sohoton, the PO which run the cottage and coop store in Cinnamon, is one of them.
It always brings joy to me to be in Sohoton, I used to come during summer months when weather is bit considerate and the park full of action. Unexpectedly I was transported into this remote islands for work, I was thrilled in a way though I know the objective is not about carousing in the waters. The past week was indeed incredible, after a wonderful Sagada weekend I went straight to Bucas Grande islands.
Setting aside one day after a bloody workshop, with my workmates we explored the islands. Although I have wanted to visit my jelly friends in Tojoman Lake, it was nil. They were not in season yet. Everything was in a rush but was able to fit in with our time schedule. It was without doubt a wet trip.
We explored Bolitas and Crystal Caves after descending from Tiktikan lake, got scratches after I came out from Bolitas. Only then I knew that only five people are allowed inside due to low oxygen supply inside. We sailed then to La Fortuna, a small patch of white beach under the coconut trees. The turquoise waters was irresistible and as if the sea water wasn’t enough, we walk a bit and immersed ourselves in the lake. We rushed off to Cinnamon for lunch, swam again in its waters and hop on a floating raft enjoying the surrounding vista.
We burped after a sumptuous lunch and not wanting to waste our time, we rushed off to Sohoton Cove making most of the low tide. I was transported again into another world, like my first visit I’m still mesmerized in awesome wonder. Exploring Hagukan and Magkakaub Cave was an adventure for my mates, it required courage and endurance especially for non-swimmers. But it was worth all their effort, there wasn’t similar wonders they visited like the cove. The day ended up with another swimming in Marka A Island – white beach, turquoise waters, marine life. It was all to ourselves!
The sun and sea water on my skin and the sea air in my lungs gave me much pleasure. Simple things that gave simple joy.There was that sense of well-being that made me spring back to life. The orange horizon in the dusk and the cicada singing reminded me that the day was over. For awhile it was enough, but I will be back soon…
Life in the Great Beyond 
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