"Now more than ever do I realize that I will never be content of a sedentary life on the surface, I will always be haunted by thoughts of being drenched elsewhere"….
Few months back, I went south in the Caraga region to experience nature’s wonders in this remote corner in Mindanao. The trip actually was like shooting several birds with one stone – while on an official meeting, I visited three amazing spots. Although I was reminding myself that we have work to do and it must be first things first – I was thrilled, I have wanted to visit these spots long time ago!
Surigao del Sur although still rustic in setting and often times with threatened peace and order situation has amazing wonders tucked in the rural areas. It is dotted with islands and idyllic white beaches, has great marine life, endowed with rivers, falls and lakes. The province is actually a remarkable destination for nature lovers, most of which are unspoiled and mysterious.
Enchanted River
I have never seen a blue river before – just this one and that’s a real wonder. It’s a remote place and the trip is long, it lies in Barangay Talisay in Hinatuan, one of the coastal towns in Surigao Sur. Getting into the spot felt like you’re transported into another world in a different dimension, it’s a surreal experience. Although the spot is now developed to cater tourist & visitors, the river is maintained in its original form.
Blue, blue river!
The bluish water is caused by the white pavement stone formation slanting towards the bed just like a wall. Since it is white, the blue sky reflected just like what we see on white beaches with blue waters. It’s about 30 feet deep, the water is salty and marine life exists. There were sweetlips, snappers and rabbitfish which actually thrive in sea water! This river is connected underneath with the sea, in fact there is a cave on its head believed to be direct to the deeps. A nature’s wonder indeed!
Great for snorkeling!
Although diving is not allowed, a group of certified cave divers were granted to do exploratory dive, but it was too deep before they could reach its end – it was a bottomless pit! The cold blue water is great for swimming, and with active fish life it is also great for snorkeling.
Tinuy-an Falls
The trip to Bislig City was also long, going through rough roads and getting into the forest – mountains, lush vegetations and hectares of untilled lands will meet you as you go your way. From the entrance, in between is a wide clearing
Tinuy-an Falls, a wonderful gift of nature!
perhaps by nature is for people to watch its great splendor, a three-tiered falls dubbed as Little Niagara due to its wide span of cascading waters. It was too wonderful to behold from afar, like I was engulfed in such majesty!
Rafting for the falls!
It was so natural, with cool fresh air and green backdrop. Going to the topmost is allowed and you can wade in the waters in every tier or get a body massage from the gushing waters – feels so good. At the ground pool, by means of raft one can get nearer the falls but the water is too rough for swimming, but the sound of fierce fall of waters is too reviving. Discovering this magnificent falls is worth the trip!
Britania Group
This group of islands has been in my list to visit, it was pure blessing since our lodgings was in San Agustin town so we had good access to the islands. It has a total of 24 islets – all uninhabited, but only five are commonly visited by
Summer is for blue skies, turquoise waters, white sands!
tourists. These islets belong to Barangay Britania, a coastal community which maintained two marine sanctuaries. The municipality of San Agustin is a partner for MRDP projects and a GEF site, a municipality active in preservation and protection of marine resources.
Just one of the islands in Britania group – Buslon Islet
Although we were advised by the boatman to have an early cruise for the high tide, we left for the islands past twelve noon under the hot blazing sun! But it was all perfect – all the three islets we hopped were with white pristine beach – Hagonoy, Naked and Buslon islands. As it was during weekdays, the islands were all to ourselves – we swam and frolic to all our hearts content. It was pure nature fun under the sun, surrounded with cool blue waters while watching the nearby islets. So serene, so beautiful, so wonderful!
Travel Notes
How to get to San Agustin:
CdO to Butuan – Aircon bus at P 337.00
Butuan to San Francisco, Agusan del Sur – Aircon bus at P 142.00
San Francisco to Brgy. Britania, San Agustin – Non aircon bus at P 72.00 or P 80.00 by van
“I am always moved by the sight of a hull lying at the bottom of the sea. To me, it seems that a ship in that situation has entered the ‘great beyond’, into another existence, a world of shadows.” ~Jacques Yves Coasteau~
Coming back to Calamianes this year has been kind of melodramatic, why when I was all set to go a year ago – plane tickets paid and dive plans in place – it was cancelled to give way for another priority. My heart sank, but it was a victory being able to give up desires over something for spiritual growth. To appease myself, I promised to return early part of this year but again deferred and boldly set it in October. This all-consuming passion to dive once more for the monsters keeps nagging me, my gills and fins were aching for it. I have wanted to be in Coron once a year with my favorite dive buddy for wreck diving.
Glitches, No More?
Be careful what you wish, you might end up with it. I gave Angel with incredulous look when he smiled and reminded me I wanted to be with him for the round trip passage to Coron – perhaps. I have prearranged plane tickets all the way to Calamian and back home to save leave from work. Well, we ended up taking the boat after our flight was cancelled and me coming back to Manila with him on the boat again. Halleluiah – but with a price! It’s a taboo for me to talk on here about finance issues, but I have to admit it cost me much for the penalties in changing my return flight home.
Waiting, queuing, negotiating, calls, arrangements, changing tickets, rushing to pier, and getting tickets. It was exhaustive, but we made it though. We were thankful we had other alternative after our flight was cancelled. It was miracle, we got tourist accommodation in adjoining bunks when the boat was filled with people. But again, be careful….
Back to Paradise
Arriving midday with the scorching heat, I sighed with deep breath as we descend from the boat with quick steps down to the port. It was two years ago, I waited long for this homecoming. I was smitten with Coron during my first visit, I went back three months later to explore more of its splendor. All its wonders in the surface was indeed pristine and alluring – a perfect paradise in the last frontier. And more enticing to me was its mysterious depths.
Blue world still, even from the wreck…
The shipwrecks in Coron is the second largest concentration of diveable World War II wrecks in the Pacific, sunk in September 24, 1944 just a year after SCUBA was invented by Sir Jacques Cousteau. . Now almost seven decades underwater, it created vast artificial reefs as haven for varied marine species and wonderful spot for divers. In the world, there are only two other wreck diving destinations that offer a comparable historic experience: Truk Lagoon in Central Pacific and Scapa Flow, off the Orkney Islands in Scotland. But the Coron wrecks win over these sites – it is less expensive to dive here and the water is warmer.
Coron sunset from Mt. Tapyas
As the remaining afternoon would be too short for island hopping, we dismissed the idea and opted to rediscover downtown Coron. We walked around for over an hour and had a relaxing stop at BOG Café for coffee break, the cake & pastries were great and exactly what we fancied for our cravings! Thinking of the glorious sunset, Angel and I agreed for an afternoon climb to Mt. Tapyas – just to be fit and get away with the calories from the rich cheesecake.
Mt. Tapyas Cross
Angel was teasing me not to look tired as we passed five other groups as we climbed our way, we did the 700+ steps in 25 minutes! We waited for sundown as we watched overlooking the town, outlying islands, calm waters and the surrounding hills. Then slowly, everything in the horizon turned reddish and golden as the setting sun ebbed down in the distance over the vast ocean. Such great splendor, it was my best sunset so far! It was dark already when we descend, the lighted cross created a wonderful glow on the mountain top. We finished off our long day dipping in Maquinit Hotsprings – one thing I don’t miss when I’m in Coron. Nothing could be more perfect than soaking in warm waters while gazing the stars above us – it felt so heavenly. Famished we got back downtown to try Old House Resto, we ended having dinner in candle light as there was no electricity! We both love the food at the Old House. 🙂
Descend, Descend, Descend!
Thinking of additional three wrecks to explore thrilled me, arriving later as scheduled gave as another surprise – Irako Maru is in the list for our dives! It was a perfect sunny Sunday as we cruised for over an hour northwest for our first descend, together with other six divers – all foreigners just like in my previous dives. It seemed that divers from all corners of the world came unceasingly for these historic wrecks.
Holes and rusted bars of wreck
We took the giant step for our entry splashing the cold waters, I can’t wait to see Irako described as the longest and deepest wreck in the area. We hold on to the bouy line as we descend slowly, it was all hazy until we catch glimpse of some solid form. DM Nonoy briefed us to stay only outside and may penetrate some lighted portion. He motioned that we go ahead of the others, the silts might be stirred and we would see nothing. Admittedly, I was distracted of the monster I barely noticed the marine life around. This large ship can not be explored in just one dive, at 147m long covering the whole stretch was impossible! It has been literally stripped of anything – it is now mere skeletons. It is now a bare vast metal encrusted with hard corals and brownish rust. We swam around a bit and reluctantly got back to the bouy line when our DM motioned for it. As we slowly ascend having the safety stop, a large school of jackfish appeared nearby. I went to take a closer look but sadly I went back deeper, which made me to do again for the three minutes safety stop. It was a short dive at 36 minutes with 32.2m as my deepest.
Graceful flatworm floating before us…
We cruised shortly for our next site and had our early lunch as our surface interval. Olympia Maru aka Morazan Maru is another new site to me, it was another large ship slightly smaller than Irako. We hold on again for the bouy line as we descend directly on its port side as it was lying on its starboard side. Some kind of a wide surface, we found holes both square and round ones. Feeling that familiar rush to get inside and explore its dark secrets! We floated slowly as if flying careful not to stir the silts, felt so wonderful. I challenged myself as we got into a small square hole for smooth entry and just flow inside like the waters. Following our DM as we penetrated and searched for something lurking in the dark corners, but not forgetting to make sure Angel was just around nearby. We spotted lionfish, scorpion fish, juveniles, a puffer and camouflaging colored clams.
A peacock lionfish!
The big cargo rooms and boiler rooms allows penetration and we practically roam around passing chambers going up and own and back again. Rusted bars, big iron wheel perhaps for the boilers and we saw the hole damaged by bomb strikes which disabled the ship. The ray of light penetrating inside gave some interesting effect inside the dark rooms. I practically ignored my dive computers flashing signals, I just need to make most of my time down but covering the whole stretch of 122m is again impossible. We finally headed for the bouy line to stabilize our depths, alas I needed a deco stop and was penalized for 8 minutes – first time so far! But with still more than 100 bars of air I had no worries, I had a total bottom time of 58 minutes with 24.4m as my deepest.
The ship mast encrusted with corals and rust
Our last descent was at East Tangat Wreck situated southwest side of Tangat Island in the Bay, the wreck lies listing to starboard down a sandy slope. It is a shallow wreck in fact it was near the shores, I catch a glimpse of its end while our dive boat moored for our surface interval. We had rounds and passed by rusted bars and few chambers, its mast is now covered with hard corals and brown rust. We spotted sponges, hard and soft corals, crinoids and sea grasses clinging on bars. We spotted too at least four specie of colorful nudis – lavender, blue, white with orange antlers, and another bluish
Taking shelter in the wreck
crawling on the corals. There was flatworms, graceful lionfish, clown fish, sea squirts, bat fish and spade fish. The marine life was wonderful enough for photos but again I got distracted with the wreck. We ascend after 49 minutes with 16.8m as my deepest. All my residual air were still more than 100 bars in my tank for all three ascents.
Patience and Obedience in One
Last year was a test of obedience in pursuing my dive trips – plainly no Tubbataha and no Coron. Now, I know why. Just two months later after my Coron fiasco, the Tubbataha dream was answered unexpectedly! Surely it pays to wait and obey, and even with some glitches we made it to Calamian. My trip this year was filled with treasured memories, new discoveries and new learnings. It might be awhile before I can return but deep in me there is always that desire to exhaust the remaining wrecks in Coron waters. They say, do not go for a trip like seeing 20 countries in a 30-day tour. Now, I say do not go for safari dive trip in Coron for you will miss to savor the beauty and mystery of these awesome monsters. Exactly why I am not in a rush…
Exactly why Angel and I still have reasons to be back in Calamianes, who knows it might be sooner!
NB. Underwaterphotos courtesy of Angel, using his Olympus Tough 8000 with PT 045 as casing.
I knew I have to be back to Balicasag Island to dive and savor once more its underwater life. This is the place where it all started – my fascination of the great marine life. While on a family vacation six years ago, I snorkeled with my sister at the marine sanctuary. I was lost in awe with the blue, blue waters and beyond. I have promised myself to become a diver since then…
Alone in Alona
Arriving very early in Tagbilaran, I have so much time to spare. How ironic when there’s so much to do back at work, here I am wandering in the city square! After attending mass at the cathedral, I crossed to the plaza watching a large flock of doves on the ground, feeling like I’m in Hyde Park. Though Panglao town can be reached by 20 -25 minutes by car, I arrived at my lodgings near Alona Beach after an hour through a mini-bus and trycicle rides.
Alona Beach afternoon
The staff of JJ Alona was kind enough to guide me as I went to the bustling district of Alona Beach. Though I was aiming to go direct to Sierra Madre Divers, she insisted I must try Tropical Divers (previously Pro-Safari Divers) which was recommended by DM Geom. I believe it was an excellent dive operator but it was bit pricey. The Danish manager Karl, was also friendly who promised to organize a Balicasag trip with me if I should decide. I tried to ask for D4 strap but not available, though he assured to get one if I stay longer in the island. Anyhow, we left for Sierra Madre to register, glad that they have two boats for Balicasag the next day. After asking for the DM assigned to me (DM Bart will be with the chinese OW students in another boat) and departure time, we walked back to JJ Alona but not without passing the bustling beach. I remembered Boracay and Puerto Galera!
There were no other guests, a quite place is all I need with the rest of the afternoon. It was raining hard…
Balicasag and Kalipayan
Despite the rain, the sun shone brightly the next morning. Though I arrived earlier as expected, the shop staff was already on their toes, and the place was filled with guests. I was joined with local government staff of Carmen, Bohol who was friendly and generous to me. They found it surprising that I am alone. We cruised for about 20 minutes until we moored in one of the bouys floating about 100 metres from the island’s shore.
nudi on corals- both colorful
Our first descent was at Black Forest, I was hoping to encounter again the giant napoleon wrasses like last time. Since the group were new divers and it took awhile for their preparation, I requested my dive guide to descend ahead. Now I know, that’s what other divers felt when I was yet a newbie – it felt like forever to wait . We descend on sandy ground, with corals and tropical fishes abound. There was current, so we drifted along until we got into a wall decorated with soft and hard corals. There were invertebrates – colourful nudis, cleaner shrimp, and anemone crab. A green turtle graced us but was too shy, it fled away as soon as it noticed us around. There was variety of tropical fishes hovering on corals, sponges and anemones. Although the marine life was still active, I noticed there wasn’t much larger species that I encountered. I hope they were just at rest somewhere around and have not totally left Black Forest. After 50 minutes I ascend with 80 bars of air.
anemone crab
Glinting my eyes with the scorching heat, I was wishing to once again walk on the white sands on the island but the boat moored far for the interval. At past 12 nooon, we had our next descent at Turtle Point. I was hoping I would find turtles but for the whole 59 minutes of my bottom time, there was none! I stayed behind again from other divers together with my dive guide, searching for macros as there was no pelagics around. There were at least four nudi species I spotted, scorpionfish, lionfish and other tropical fishes. There was a moray eel gawking at me but my cam failed. It was filled with soft and hard corals, crinoid, sponges and anemones. Normally, there were only two dives in the island, so we cruised back to Alona Beach after we surfaced past 1pm. This made me to my 100th dive!
moray eel gawking at me!
Again, making most of my long travel, my time and expenses, I requested for third dive even just nearby, I was lone – other divers have called it a day taking their late leisure lunch sat nearby resto. Quarter before four o’clock, we sped our way to Kalipayan for my last descent. Together with my dive guide, I immersed myself with the cold afternoon waters and went deep down, unto a colourful reef punctuated by invertebrates as I passed by. A moray eel lurking on soft coral, went out gawking at me perhaps wondering what kind of fish I am! Then we moved to a sandy ground decorated with green sea grasses and those big thorny brownish starfish. There were patches of hard corals as we went along, with tropical fishes hovering around. We ascend after 39 minutes – it was short but has to end sooner for my flight the next day. When we got back to the beach, the place was grueling preparing for the night’s bustle. Dinner tables of the restos were out on the white beach ready for diners. The area started to become more alive as the sun comes down, tourists started to flocked around the beach.
blue, blue world - my world!
Milestone Dives
Going back to Bohol again wasn’t my priority, but my dive buddy requested for it so I arranged things for me to come. He didn’t make it though, but there’s no reason for me to cancel mine. It turned out to have my 100th dive right on the very spot where my passion for life in the depths all started. I wish there will be another hundred dives to come, if not two, three, four or more.
And perhaps, I will be back again in Balicasag Island – may be not sooner but for sure I will not wait for a hundred dive before I would set foot again to see more of its depths!
Travel Notes
My route for this trip:
Cagayan de Oro to Tagbilaran – by boat (Trans Asia Lines), 9 hours
Tagbilaran Pier to Panglao bus terminal – Tricycle
Tagbilaran to Panglao Sawang – Mini bus, 45 minutes
Sawang to Alona Beach – Tricycle, 10-15 minutes
Return trip:
Tagbilaran to Cebu – Ocean Jet, 2 hours
Cebu to Cagayan de Oro – plane, 1 hour & 15 minutes
Blue river? I was intrigued when I first heard of it, rivers may have clear waters or worse murky, but never blue. But this river is indeed blue! Couple of weeks ago, I visited this best-kept secret in Hinatuan, a coastal town in Surigao Sur. It was almost two hours from San Agustin, and as we go through the spot with those trees and vines, it felt like I’m transported into another world. It gave me a sense of being in a city somewhere in another dimension.
The blue waters seems to beacon one – to just jump into the river, but how mysterious! I watched in awe – so pure, so natural, hidden in this remote corner in Mindanao. It was heard there were groups who tried to dive its depths. Indeed, they posted on the info board a report of technical and cave specialty divers who went down to explore the depths of the river. How magnificent, but unfortunately there were no details but merely brief introduction of the expedition. 😦 It looked so creepy at the river head, the dark corner mysteriously hiding is a cave underneath!
I was still cracking my head why it is blue, when my companions were waving at me to come into the waters. Descending from the concrete steps into the shallow waters, it seemed I was overwhelmed of the wonderful sight before me. And once in the cold waters, there was that familiar urge to see what’s beyond, the rush to just dive in to the depths. Yes, lo and behold! A white pavement-like on its side down to the bed on a slope, with a depth of about 30 feet – that’s what made the water so blue! 🙂 The slope is formed like a cone with about two feet wide clearing on its bottom.
With visibility of about 50-60 feet, the waters was so clear and with those oversized sweetlips and rabbitfish swimming coyly, it was a wonderful sight! Sea species claimed its abode in the river, yet the waters is brackish – such another mystery! The waters is connected in the deep blue sea underneath, it is part of the sea camouflaging as river. I stayed longer just floating and swam nearer into that mysterious dark corner at the river head. Someday, somehow I wish I could penetrate its mysterious depths….
One day, I promise a return in this baffling, enchanted river in Hinatuan.
Travel Notes:
Hinatuan is about 1.5 hours from San Agustin and 1.5 hours from Bislig City, this coastal town in Surigao del Sur can be reached by bus from San Francisco, Agusan del Sur.
My route: Cagayan de Oro – Butuan (by aircon bus – 4 hours)
Butuan to San Agustin via Los Arcos, Bayugan (by private vehicle – 2.5 hours)
San Agustin to Hinatuan (by private vehicle – 1.5 hours)
One of those few things that I never grow tired of doing during summer is to be in Bucas Grande group, this secluded place is like home to me. The peaceful environment with its natural attractions has captured my heart and nagged me to savor its beauty even just once in a year.
A couple of weeks ago, I went to my paradise unexpectedly, it was unplanned although I knew I must go. So I seized the opportunity when my trip up north was postponed due to unfavorable weather. The adage was true that while the city is in typhoon, it doesn’t mean that in the distant islands it’s pouring rain, the sun was perfectly shining like summer!
My sister dropped everything back home when I invited her, although at short notice she simply gave in to my whim. Leaving Butuan almost 2pm, we arrived almost 4pm in Bad-as junction and was grateful that van for Port Hayanggabon was stationed leaving any minute. The afternoon sun gives a warm glow as we drove along the coastal towns of Placer, Bacuag, Gigaquit and Claver. We arrived at the port almost sundown, our boat waiting. Rushing to buy for needs, we left almost getting dark. The stars started to appear in the skies and some fireflies welcomed as we cruised for our night’s lodge. The boatman with trained eyes managed our boat single handedly until we reached at Tiktikan Lake almost 7pm. Somehow I still have gotten energy to climb up to the reception area even in dark with only a small torch to illumine our way.
magkakaub cave entrance
Just as it is, everything so natural and unspoiled. There’s no electricity, but they got used to it already, the small kerosene lamp served as our light. The cicadas singing in the darkness, cutting the stillness of the night. We woke up the following morning watching the placid lake before us and the sunrise breaking behind the limestone cliffs.
Sohoton in a Day
We rushed to the information center for a courtesy hi with DH, somehow I’m grateful with all the necessary arrangements he made for my trip, even how short the notice was. So we started early taking advantage of the low tide, I wanted to revisit the hidden charms of my paradise. I always feel that familiar rush of blood flow when entering the cove, so mysterious it felt like I’m transported into another world. We went around and got first into Hagukan Cave, swam inside, stayed for awhile and mingle with other guests. We then proceed to the challenging Magkakaub Cave, walk inside, view the formations and the fruit bats up, then went rock climbing for the exit. Well, we got at the ramp ready for the plunge but alas I still have to gather much courage for the jump 😛 It’s my fourth time and yet my spirit needed some urging. It felt so free having the big leap, the big splash and the water rush felt so good! 🙂 Navigating around the cove watching limestone cliffs covered with greens, clear waters and blue skies is like paradise to me.
the landmark for exit!
My most favorite spot here is the Jellyfish Lagoon (Tojoman Lake), I was ecstatic when DH told me it’s peak season of the jellies! When we entered the lagoon, all others were coming out so it was comforting it won’t be too crowded. And there I watched in awe, of my brown friends starting to float up in view. I swam around getting up close with them. My sister can’t believe it’s stingless. All of them in varied sizes, pulsating like talking to me, and swimming right there all around me. I stayed in the waters long to my heart’s content, swimming with my jelly friends. I still have wanted to linger more but my companions seemed tired already, so I finally went up the boat feeling sorry I have to leave.
boats ready...
After our late lunch and brief rest back at Tiktikan Lake, we cruised to La Fortuna to explore another inland lake there and hoping to get some fresh buko. We walked on a trail to the lake and have some swim there. When we got back, we swam on the white beach while waiting for our boat. I missed Spirit, it should have been fun playing with him in the waters. We cruised to another spot to buy some buko, it was a white beach too and while waiting I swam again with the waves pushing me ashore. 😛 We got back to the info center, catching up DH with some visitors. We savor the fresh buko lamaw while discussing latest updates in the park and the PO. We hastily finished up to see the spot where the new cottage owned by SAVE Sohoton was built. Actually, it’s a good improvement – a new economic activity of the PO. It sat in a cove with turquoise waters and white sands, a simple cottage of indigenous materials still with works on-going. It promises a wonderful spot for swimming, snorkeling or just lounging on the small patch of white beach. We rushed back at the info center and finally sailed to the guest house for night’s refuge, when it began to get dark.
Promise to be Back
The next morning, we woke up watching the placid waters from our window. How serene and beautiful, so peaceful and divine. I knew I never grow tired of coming to this place. I was too glad that it has maintained its unspoiled beauty, its people have well-preserved its environment. I was glad I didn’t see any litters, except few when we got to the lake which our guide defended coming from open waters brought by the tide. Sohoton folks have done great job in preserving this paradise.
Our boat left riding on the morning waves – my favorite haven getting obscure as we got farther. Still I promise myself to be back again, hoping its beauty will be same as I knew her. It’s about its serenity, the vast sea, limestone cliffs, crystal waters, elusive marine life, orange skies, starry nights, singing cicadas, placid lakes and my jelly friends. My place, my refuge, my paradise…
Life in the Great Beyond 
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