Category: Adventures

Balicasag Island: Milestone Dives

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Balicasag Island

I knew I have to be back to Balicasag Island to dive and savor once more its underwater life. This is the place where it all started – my fascination of the great marine life. While on a family vacation six years ago, I snorkeled with my sister at the marine sanctuary.  I was lost in awe with the blue, blue waters and beyond.  I have promised myself to become a diver since then…

Alone in Alona

Arriving very early in Tagbilaran, I have so much time to spare. How ironic when there’s so much to do back at work, here I am wandering in the city square!  After attending mass at the cathedral, I crossed to the plaza watching a large flock of doves on the ground, feeling like I’m in Hyde Park.  Though Panglao town can be reached by 20 -25 minutes by car, I arrived at my lodgings near Alona Beach after an hour through a mini-bus and trycicle rides.

Alona Beach afternoon

The staff of JJ Alona was kind enough to guide me as I went to the bustling district of Alona Beach. Though I was aiming to go direct to Sierra Madre Divers, she insisted I must try Tropical Divers (previously Pro-Safari Divers) which was recommended by DM Geom. I believe it was an excellent dive operator but it was bit pricey. The Danish manager Karl, was also friendly who promised to organize a Balicasag trip with me if I should decide. I tried to ask for D4 strap but not available, though he assured to get one if I stay longer in the island.  Anyhow, we left for Sierra Madre to register, glad that they have two boats for Balicasag the next day.  After asking for the DM assigned to me (DM Bart will be with the chinese OW students in another boat) and departure time, we walked back to JJ Alona but not without passing the bustling beach. I remembered Boracay and Puerto Galera!

There were no other guests, a quite place is all I need with the rest of the afternoon.  It was raining hard…

Balicasag and Kalipayan

Despite the rain, the sun shone brightly the next morning. Though I arrived earlier as expected, the shop staff was already on their toes, and the place was filled with guests.  I was joined with local government staff of Carmen, Bohol who was friendly and generous to me.  They found it surprising that I am alone.  We cruised for about 20 minutes until we moored in one of the bouys floating about 100 metres from the island’s shore.

nudi on corals- both colorful

Our first descent was at Black Forest, I was hoping to encounter again the giant napoleon wrasses like last time.  Since the group were new divers and it took awhile for their preparation, I requested my dive guide to descend ahead.  Now I know, that’s what other divers felt when I was yet a newbie –  it felt like forever to wait .  We descend on sandy ground, with corals and tropical fishes abound.  There was current, so we drifted along until we got into a wall decorated with soft and hard corals.  There were invertebrates – colourful nudis, cleaner shrimp, and anemone crab.  A green turtle graced us but was too shy, it fled away as soon as it noticed us around.  There was variety of tropical fishes hovering on corals, sponges and anemones.  Although the marine life was still active, I noticed there wasn’t much larger species that I encountered. I hope they were just at rest somewhere around and have not totally left Black Forest.  After 50 minutes I ascend with 80 bars of air.

anemone crab

Glinting my eyes with the scorching heat, I was wishing to once again walk on the white sands on the island but the boat moored far for the interval.  At past 12 nooon, we had our next descent at Turtle Point.  I was hoping I would find turtles but for the whole 59 minutes of my bottom time, there was none!  I stayed behind again from other divers together with my dive guide, searching for macros as there was no pelagics around.  There were at least four nudi species I spotted, scorpionfish, lionfish and other tropical fishes.   There was a moray eel gawking at me but my cam failed.  It was filled with soft and hard corals, crinoid, sponges and anemones. Normally, there were only two dives in the island, so we cruised back to Alona Beach after we surfaced past 1pm.  This made me to my 100th dive!

moray eel gawking at me!

Again, making most of my long travel,  my time and expenses, I requested for third dive even just nearby, I was lone – other divers have called it a day taking their late  leisure lunch sat nearby resto. Quarter before four o’clock, we sped our way to Kalipayan for my last descent.  Together with my dive guide, I immersed myself with the cold afternoon waters and went deep down, unto a colourful reef punctuated by invertebrates as I passed by. A moray eel lurking on soft coral, went out gawking at me perhaps wondering what kind of fish I am! Then we moved to a sandy ground decorated with green sea grasses and those big thorny brownish starfish.  There were patches of hard corals as we went along, with tropical fishes hovering around.  We ascend after 39 minutes – it was short but has to end sooner for my flight the next day.  When we got back to the beach, the place was grueling preparing for the night’s bustle.  Dinner tables of the restos were out on the white beach ready for diners.  The area started to become more alive as the sun comes down, tourists started to flocked around the beach.

blue, blue world - my world!

Milestone Dives

Going back  to Bohol again wasn’t my priority, but my dive buddy requested for it so I arranged things for me to come. He didn’t make it though, but there’s no reason for me to cancel mine.  It turned out to have my 100th dive right on the very spot where my passion for life in the depths all started.  I wish there will be another hundred dives to come, if not two, three, four or more.

And perhaps, I will be back again in Balicasag Island – may be not sooner but for sure I will not wait for a hundred dive before I would set foot again to see more of  its depths!

Travel Notes

My route for this trip:

Cagayan de Oro to Tagbilaran  – by boat (Trans Asia Lines), 9 hours
Tagbilaran Pier to Panglao bus terminal – Tricycle
Tagbilaran to Panglao Sawang – Mini bus, 45 minutes
Sawang to Alona Beach – Tricycle, 10-15 minutes

Return trip:

Tagbilaran to Cebu – Ocean Jet, 2 hours
Cebu to Cagayan de Oro – plane, 1 hour & 15 minutes

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Enchanted Blue River

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blue, blue river !

Blue river?  I was intrigued when I first heard of it,  rivers may have clear waters or worse murky, but never blue.  But this river is indeed blue!  Couple of weeks ago, I visited this best-kept secret in Hinatuan, a coastal town in Surigao Sur.  It was almost two hours from San Agustin, and as we go through the spot with those trees and vines, it felt like I’m transported into another world.  It gave me a sense of being in a city somewhere in another dimension.

The blue waters seems to beacon one –  to just jump into the river, but how mysterious!  I watched in awe – so pure, so natural,  hidden in this remote corner in Mindanao.  It was heard there were groups who tried to dive its depths. Indeed, they posted on the info board a  report of technical and cave specialty divers who went down to explore the depths of the river.  How magnificent, but unfortunately there were no details but merely brief introduction of the expedition.  😦  It looked so creepy at the river head, the dark corner mysteriously hiding  is a cave underneath!

I was still cracking my head why it is blue, when my companions were waving at me to come into the waters. Descending from the concrete steps into the shallow waters, it seemed I was overwhelmed of the wonderful sight before me.  And once in the cold waters, there was that familiar urge to see what’s beyond, the rush to just dive in to the depths. Yes, lo and behold!  A white pavement-like on its side down to the bed on a slope, with a depth of about 30 feet – that’s what made the water so blue!  🙂 The slope is formed like a cone with about two feet wide clearing on its bottom.

With visibility of about 50-60 feet, the waters was so clear and with those oversized sweetlips and rabbitfish swimming coyly, it was a wonderful sight!   Sea species claimed its abode in the river, yet the waters is brackish – such another mystery!  The waters is connected in the deep blue sea underneath, it is part of the sea camouflaging as river.  I stayed longer just floating and swam nearer into that mysterious dark corner at the river head.  Someday, somehow I wish I could penetrate its mysterious depths….

One day, I promise a return in this baffling, enchanted river in Hinatuan.


Travel Notes:

Hinatuan is about 1.5 hours from San Agustin and  1.5 hours from Bislig City, this coastal town in Surigao del Sur can be reached by bus from San Francisco, Agusan del Sur.

My route:  Cagayan de Oro – Butuan (by aircon bus – 4 hours)
Butuan to San Agustin via Los Arcos, Bayugan (by private vehicle – 2.5 hours)
San Agustin to Hinatuan (by private vehicle – 1.5 hours)

Back to My Little Paradise

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jellies started floating up!

One of those few things that I never grow tired of doing during summer is to be in Bucas Grande group, this secluded place is like home to me.  The peaceful environment with its natural attractions has captured my heart and nagged me to savor its beauty even just once in a year.

A couple of weeks ago, I went to my paradise unexpectedly, it was unplanned although I knew I must go.  So I seized the opportunity when my trip up north was postponed due to unfavorable weather. The adage was true that while the city is in typhoon, it doesn’t mean that in the distant islands it’s pouring rain, the sun was perfectly shining like summer!

My sister dropped everything back home when I invited her, although at short notice she simply gave in to my whim.  Leaving Butuan almost 2pm, we arrived almost 4pm in Bad-as junction and was grateful that van for Port Hayanggabon was stationed leaving any minute.  The afternoon sun gives a warm glow as we drove along the coastal towns of Placer, Bacuag, Gigaquit and Claver. We arrived at the port almost sundown, our boat waiting.  Rushing to buy for needs, we left almost getting dark. The stars started to appear in the skies and some fireflies welcomed as we cruised for our night’s lodge. The boatman with trained eyes managed our boat single handedly until we reached at Tiktikan Lake almost 7pm.  Somehow I still have gotten energy to climb up to the reception area even in dark with only a small torch to illumine our way.

magkakaub cave entrance

Just as it is, everything so natural and unspoiled.  There’s no electricity, but they got used to it already, the small kerosene lamp served as our light.  The cicadas singing in the darkness, cutting the stillness of the night.  We woke up the following morning watching the placid lake before us and the sunrise breaking behind the limestone cliffs.

Sohoton in a Day

We rushed to the information center for a courtesy hi with DH, somehow I’m grateful with all the necessary arrangements he made for my trip, even how short the notice was.  So we started early taking advantage of the low tide, I wanted to revisit the hidden charms of my paradise.  I always feel that familiar rush of blood flow when entering the cove, so mysterious it felt like I’m transported into another world. We went around and got first into Hagukan Cave, swam inside, stayed for awhile and mingle with other guests.  We  then proceed to the challenging Magkakaub Cave,  walk inside, view the formations and the fruit bats up, then went rock climbing for the exit. Well, we got at the ramp ready for the plunge but alas I still have to gather much courage for the jump 😛  It’s my fourth time and yet my spirit needed some urging.  It felt so free having the big leap, the big splash and the water rush felt so good!  🙂 Navigating around the cove watching limestone cliffs covered with greens, clear waters and blue skies is like paradise to me.

the landmark for exit!

My most favorite spot here is the Jellyfish Lagoon (Tojoman Lake), I was ecstatic when DH told me it’s peak season of the jellies!  When we entered the lagoon, all others were coming out so it was comforting it won’t be too crowded.  And there I watched in awe, of my brown friends starting to float up in view. I swam around getting up close with them.  My sister can’t believe it’s stingless. All of them in varied sizes, pulsating like talking to me, and swimming right there all around me. I stayed in the waters long to my heart’s content, swimming with my jelly friends.  I still have wanted to linger more but my companions seemed tired already, so I finally went up the boat feeling sorry I have to leave.

boats ready...

After our late lunch and brief rest back at Tiktikan Lake, we cruised to La Fortuna to explore another inland lake there and hoping to get some fresh buko. We walked on a trail to the lake and have some swim there.  When we got back, we swam on the white beach while waiting for our boat.  I missed Spirit, it should have been fun playing with him in the waters.  We cruised to another spot to buy some buko, it was a white beach too and while waiting I swam again with the waves pushing me ashore.  😛  We got back to the info center, catching up DH with some visitors.  We savor the fresh buko lamaw while discussing latest updates in the park and the PO.  We hastily finished up to see the spot where the new cottage owned by SAVE Sohoton was built.  Actually, it’s a good improvement – a new economic activity of the PO.  It sat in a cove with turquoise waters and white sands, a simple cottage of indigenous materials still with works on-going.  It promises a wonderful spot for swimming, snorkeling or just lounging on the small patch of white beach.  We rushed back at the info center and finally sailed to the guest house for night’s refuge, when it began to get  dark.

Promise to be Back

The next morning, we woke up watching the placid waters from our window.  How serene and beautiful, so peaceful and divine.  I knew I never grow tired of coming to this place. I was too glad that it has maintained its unspoiled beauty, its people have well-preserved its environment. I was glad I didn’t see any litters, except few when we got to the lake which our guide defended coming from open waters brought by the tide.  Sohoton folks have done great job in preserving this paradise.

Our boat left riding on the morning waves – my favorite haven getting obscure as we got farther.  Still I promise myself to be back again, hoping its beauty will be same as I knew her.  It’s about its serenity, the vast sea, limestone cliffs, crystal waters, elusive marine life, orange skies, starry nights, singing cicadas, placid lakes and my jelly friends.   My place, my refuge, my paradise…

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Thrills of Tubbataha Trails (Part II)

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Ananas sea cucumber

For when God possesses the dreamer, He will mold the dream and it will be right…   Verdell Davis

Like a Bootcamp

During the four-day expedition with maximum of four dives in a day, life become like a series of order – time to wake up and eat, specific time for dives, surface intervals and personal time for rest. Time management is still necessary, you don’t want everybody waiting for you when the chase boat is ready leaving.  Weather is unpredictable, in a matter of minutes the waters become choppy.  The departure of the three speed boats from HCA is in sequence as scheduled.

For safety, all divers in each chase boat shall descend and ascend together – so when we got into the waters on a roll-back entry, with our masks ready and regulators on, DM Wally always said, “On my count – one, two, three!” Splash! And I heard that in all my thirteen dives. 😛  Other buzzwords we had are as pleasing like, “Food is ready!” from the kitchen staff and a sumptuous buffet is before us. Or when the divers got back from the waters, you could almost hear everybody asking, “What did you see?” and what followed are passionate descriptions of the sightings.

While Venusians have explored diving and many have excelled, the Martians still dominated it. It’s not for the faint-hearted as they say.  So it wasn’t strange that there were only six (Memey & Pia from Manila; Natisha from Canada; Ma’am Nana, Doc Candy and me from Mindanao) of us out of 25 diver guests.  I was thrilled with the thought of being one of these special and adventurous people.

Diving is never a place for an “ooops”, definitely no errors allowed so following basic rules is purely no-nonsense.  Any untoward incident may lead to end the trip, without doubt a total disaster for all of us!

Eat, Dive, Sleep, Pray & Love

We eat at least five times a day, there was such abundance of food complete with dessert – like what about ice cream in the middle of the sea?  🙂 I still have to limit my food intake though. And the dives were such like a buffet – it was my first time to have four descents in a day, really wet!  And sleep is almost instant after long day of dives, no such sleeping late like when back home. Rest is all about sleep during the cruise.

I believe there’s one thing common to all of us in the boat – pray – everyone was praying for a good weather every day.  Because the weather in the area can be so unpredictable, the rains and the waves may come any time.  Nobody would want the cruise to be aborted due to bad weather. And we were privileged to have three priests right in our group – Fr. John, Fr. Aldrin and Monsignor Nene – so we didn’t miss the Sunday mass which was being officiated by Fr. John.  It was such a deep and solemn celebration.  Somehow, with three diving priests with us, there was such an assurance of daily prayers for all our safety.

The excitement of getting into the waters and breathing deep down or discovering the unknown are just coating of this incessant aquatic adventures.  It’s more about passion of the marine world, the life beyond the depths – just pure love for these creatures, wondering and watching in awe all these wondrous forms of life.  I know I’ll never grow tired of my dive quests, the God of the sea never seems to exhaust incredible sights in his kingdom.  And as a water person, I promised myself I’ll go on diving until I grow old when my gnarled fingers could still hold and operate gadgets or my wobbly legs could still kick for my fins.

We had the opportunity to sit down in dinner with one of our co-diver guest during the cruise – one of the three “father & son” team. He chattered about all the incredible sightings we had in the reefs full of passion and have felt same sentiment with him and as if to close his little speech, he declared he loves diving. Angel and I watching him, without batting an eyelash almost in unison declared solemnly, “We too!”

One Great Dream

Two brave souls dared for this great Tubbataha dream, I know now nothing is ever extreme with one’s aspirations.  All I needed was an ardent spirit, determined heart and one good friend who shared same deep passion for the great marine world.  It was another living proof that God is ever faithful to His promises!

We waited enough for this mission, our ultimate trip away to a paradise not everyone has the opportunity to savor its grandeur.  A world away, apart from the maze of crowded cityscape to a place of tranquility.  A place where there are no structures but water everywhere, aquatic nature in all its purity.

Tubbataha – where a brave and passionate diver’s dreams come true!

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Thrills of Tubbataha Trails (Part I)

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Tubbataha waterworld…

When your heart is in your dream, nothing is ever too extreme…

I have written enough about the planning, waiting and seizing our great Tubbataha dream and needless to say that along come with it were the unending thrills and joy as the countdown started.  Now, it took me awhile to finally scribble what’s inside me – really how ironic that while my heart and mind was filled with treasured sweet memories from the trip, I don’t want to scribble anything about it – not yet.  And just like what Angel said in his SMS after our trip, the memories of our great dives keeps playing in my mind.

The Waiting is Over

The headstrong in me pushed me enough to vanish from never ending work even without my approved leave on hand, the thrills had gotten me enough courage to simply digress.  The morning horizons when I left Cagayan de Oro promised a sunny day, and I was hoping such would be the condition in the next four days in the Sulu Sea.  Though I promised Sir Dodong Uy (our team leader) I would see them at CdeO airport, I haven’t talked to my companions until we reached Puerto Princesa.

But I caught up Fr. John Young, SJ at Mactan pre-departure and briefly chat with him until we separated for the boarding. Smiling I said to him, “I made it!” which he immediately corrected, “We made it!”  He told me last December when I first met him that it’s been three summers for his Tubbataha attempt.  Well, Angel and I only missed one attempt for the Dive Tubbataha 2010 plans.

Our team converged at Puerto Princesa airport – Sir Dodong & Ma’am Nana Uy, Fr. John Young, Monsignor Nene Caldoza, Fr. Aldrin Alaan, Sir Jan Surposa, Mark Allen Du – as we wait for Angel whose arrival was 20 minutes later from our Mactan flight.  We got back downtown after we checked-in at our yacht for a sumptuous lunch at Ka Lui Resto, at past 1pm everyone was starving.

We finally sailed at 7pm watching the beacon lights as we departed Puerto Princesa port with the stars above us, promising fine weather for our journey towards the vast waters of our dream paradise…

Gray Reef Shark

Great Waterworld

The next morning we were in Sulu Sea purely surrounded with blue waters – Tubbataha at last!  I belonged to the Red Group – Sir Dong & Ma’am Nana, Fr. John, Doc Candy, Sir Jan, Mark, and Angel – with DM Wally assigned to us.

Day 1.  Our first dive schedule was at 9am for a check-out, though most of the divers wanted it sooner as we arrived earlier.  Our first descent was at Malayan Wreck not so far away from where HCA moored, though we didn’t get near the wreck but went to a wall covered with gorgonians in variety of colors along with hard and soft corals. I was most fascinated with sharks – white tips and gray reef – just swimming coyly below us just like any other fish.  In a few minutes I was hyperventilating and catching my breath and I wondered, I signaled and DM Wally with Sir Dong was at the rescue.  My usual 6 lbs weight was too heavy and so in my succeeding dives I have 4 lbs weight which I found comfortable.  We had a dose of sharks in our second and third dive at Wall Street and Amos Rock respectively, plus variety of reef fishes.  Our fourth and last dive of the day was bit late already it was almost a night dive, we descend at Ranger Station with our torch.  There wasn’t much fish life, they could have taken refuge already in their abodes.  We uncovered some dwellers though on rocks and crevices – groupers, snappers and sweet lips. Sea cucumbers were abundant too. Such lovely sightings in our first day.

Sea Turtle among the colorful corals

Day 2.    Blessed again with good weather, we woke up earlier on our second day as first dive was at 6am.  We hope for more good sightings, the sharks have become very common already. Our first descent was at Shark Airport – and true to its name, white tips and gray reefs keep darting now and then! There were sharks again on our second site at Seafan Alley I watch in awe with the abundance of large and thick seafans in variety of colors on the wall. Aside from variety of reef fishes, we sighted turtles – one was feeding on corals and didn’t go away when we watched him and another one we met when we are about to ascend.  The day’s highlight was on our third dive, everybody was thrilled.  We were floating as we watch the scenery at the Shark Airport, I catch a glimpse of something black coming toward us, at first I didn’t recognize. I got a good view watching the devil ray swimming above us until it disappeared!  We went back to Seafan Alley on our last dive – we had sharks again, triggerfishes, more reef fishes plus school of jacks.  Two days of diving at North Atoll was just perfect.

Day 3.    We were up again early for the 6am dive, with the skies somewhat overcast. We had the greatest surprise on that Sunday morning at Delsan Wreck!  We didn’t go to the wreck but stayed on the sandy slope with a shallow wall beyond resembling like a bowl.  There was some current and swam a bit like waiting, barely 9 minutes after descending I was at 30 meters when there was some commotion. Lo and behold – the whale shark!  Everything went fast, everybody was moving fast – I went deeper at 33.8m to get a good view watching in awe underneath. The great whale shark with white tips, gray reefs, tunas and giant trevally swimming with him side by side, and as if giving as a chance to take another look – they circled once more in great display for all of us.  The sight was so enthralling! Before we ascend, there was a large school of jacks before as we went shallower.  Our next descent was at the Lighthouse which didn’t disappoint us, we went to the wall covered with seafans and variety of corals.  We had sharks again- black tips and gray reef, barracuda, blue fin trevally, big morays, jacks, parrots and sea turtle.  After our surface interval for our third dive, the waters become choppy so DM Wally advised to defer our dive until the waters will be manageable.  We made our last descent for the day past 4pm already, grateful we made it. Black Rock was another wall dive, decorated with seafans, sponges and corals in variety of colors.  We sighted triggers, chromis, cardinals, groupers, sweet lips, puffers, wrasses and lot more.  It doesn’t matter we only had three descents for the day, the whale shark sighting was more than enough to compensate for it.  It was a blessed Sunday indeed at South Atoll….

Great whaleshark!
Great whaleshark!

Day 4.  On our last day, our boat went back to North Atoll for the scheduled dives. We had overcast skies again but everyone hoped we could complete the dives.  Our boat tender riding on the waves as we went to Malayan Wreck for our first descent, our group agreed to just stay at the wall and had an easy dive.  I just observed all the fish and creatures before me as I went through, although everyone’s hoping for another surprise. J There were yellow and black breams, damsels, surgeons, fusiliers, bluefin trevally, triggers, humphead wrasse, moray and of course sharks.  The white tip swimming coyly below me just like any ordinary fish.  The weather has been down cast and it started to drizzle already.  After more than two hours interval we geared for the next dive which was my last descent at the reefs, notifying our DM.  My noon flight the next day restricted me to let go of the last dive of the cruise.  There wasn’t rain anymore but the waves persisted.  We went back to Malayan Wreck determined to make most of my last descent as Fr John urged.  We went for the wall observing the fish life there, the visibility still good.  There were triggers, breams, trevally, snappers, fusiliers and variety of chromis.  After 40 minutes, I slowly ascend for my safety stop to a coral garden watching the reef fishes, then DM Wally signaled for a shark pointing ahead of me – there it was! On a spot of white sands about 6 meters from the surface, there lying flat on the sand a lone gray reef shark almost a meter in size.  Lying peacefully asleep on its habitat – what a wonderful sight! Perching behind the corals for few minutes, I watched it in awe J  Angel came over and went far by taking a photo – perhaps disturbed by the lights, it quickly swam away. L Though it was time to surface, we still linger in the coral garden until Angel pointed out the wreck just a little ahead of us – how can I be short-sighted! We quickly swam to the spot grateful that there wasn’t current, circled and went around. I was thrilled – I love wrecks! There was lot of dwellers down the wreck – giant groupers, trevally, sweet lips, wrasses, parrots and more – such an active fish life.  We managed to take some photos and explored a bit but heard signals to get back to chase boat for the ascent. It started to rain already and the waters getting more choppy.  Angel and I was the last as we raced back for the boat, which we can hardly see underwater.  We hold unto the boat as it quickly left the spot as the waves getting fiercer.  I hold on to Angel’s hand while we’re on the raging waters with the boat moving until he got on,  and the stairs was moved for me to climb up.   Sometimes you need to be tough to survive  certain conditions.  Anyway, the small wreck was a fine way to end my quest at the reefs, it was my longest dive during the cruise at 63 minutes.      We sped off riding on the waves to take refuge in the yacht.

Pair of many-spotted sweetlips

The great waterworld of Tubbataha is a piece of heaven on earth.  The exhilaration of being surrounded by colorful fish of great variety is simply hard to equal. It was a very moving experience. While you’ve probably seen photos and videos on diving, you won’t understand what it’s really like or how it really felt until you’ve experienced it yourself.

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