Thrills of Tubbataha Trails (Part I)

Tubbataha waterworld…

When your heart is in your dream, nothing is ever too extreme…

I have written enough about the planning, waiting and seizing our great Tubbataha dream and needless to say that along come with it were the unending thrills and joy as the countdown started.  Now, it took me awhile to finally scribble what’s inside me – really how ironic that while my heart and mind was filled with treasured sweet memories from the trip, I don’t want to scribble anything about it – not yet.  And just like what Angel said in his SMS after our trip, the memories of our great dives keeps playing in my mind.

The Waiting is Over

The headstrong in me pushed me enough to vanish from never ending work even without my approved leave on hand, the thrills had gotten me enough courage to simply digress.  The morning horizons when I left Cagayan de Oro promised a sunny day, and I was hoping such would be the condition in the next four days in the Sulu Sea.  Though I promised Sir Dodong Uy (our team leader) I would see them at CdeO airport, I haven’t talked to my companions until we reached Puerto Princesa.

But I caught up Fr. John Young, SJ at Mactan pre-departure and briefly chat with him until we separated for the boarding. Smiling I said to him, “I made it!” which he immediately corrected, “We made it!”  He told me last December when I first met him that it’s been three summers for his Tubbataha attempt.  Well, Angel and I only missed one attempt for the Dive Tubbataha 2010 plans.

Our team converged at Puerto Princesa airport – Sir Dodong & Ma’am Nana Uy, Fr. John Young, Monsignor Nene Caldoza, Fr. Aldrin Alaan, Sir Jan Surposa, Mark Allen Du – as we wait for Angel whose arrival was 20 minutes later from our Mactan flight.  We got back downtown after we checked-in at our yacht for a sumptuous lunch at Ka Lui Resto, at past 1pm everyone was starving.

We finally sailed at 7pm watching the beacon lights as we departed Puerto Princesa port with the stars above us, promising fine weather for our journey towards the vast waters of our dream paradise…

Gray Reef Shark

Great Waterworld

The next morning we were in Sulu Sea purely surrounded with blue waters – Tubbataha at last!  I belonged to the Red Group – Sir Dong & Ma’am Nana, Fr. John, Doc Candy, Sir Jan, Mark, and Angel – with DM Wally assigned to us.

Day 1.  Our first dive schedule was at 9am for a check-out, though most of the divers wanted it sooner as we arrived earlier.  Our first descent was at Malayan Wreck not so far away from where HCA moored, though we didn’t get near the wreck but went to a wall covered with gorgonians in variety of colors along with hard and soft corals. I was most fascinated with sharks – white tips and gray reef – just swimming coyly below us just like any other fish.  In a few minutes I was hyperventilating and catching my breath and I wondered, I signaled and DM Wally with Sir Dong was at the rescue.  My usual 6 lbs weight was too heavy and so in my succeeding dives I have 4 lbs weight which I found comfortable.  We had a dose of sharks in our second and third dive at Wall Street and Amos Rock respectively, plus variety of reef fishes.  Our fourth and last dive of the day was bit late already it was almost a night dive, we descend at Ranger Station with our torch.  There wasn’t much fish life, they could have taken refuge already in their abodes.  We uncovered some dwellers though on rocks and crevices – groupers, snappers and sweet lips. Sea cucumbers were abundant too. Such lovely sightings in our first day.

Sea Turtle among the colorful corals

Day 2.    Blessed again with good weather, we woke up earlier on our second day as first dive was at 6am.  We hope for more good sightings, the sharks have become very common already. Our first descent was at Shark Airport – and true to its name, white tips and gray reefs keep darting now and then! There were sharks again on our second site at Seafan Alley I watch in awe with the abundance of large and thick seafans in variety of colors on the wall. Aside from variety of reef fishes, we sighted turtles – one was feeding on corals and didn’t go away when we watched him and another one we met when we are about to ascend.  The day’s highlight was on our third dive, everybody was thrilled.  We were floating as we watch the scenery at the Shark Airport, I catch a glimpse of something black coming toward us, at first I didn’t recognize. I got a good view watching the devil ray swimming above us until it disappeared!  We went back to Seafan Alley on our last dive – we had sharks again, triggerfishes, more reef fishes plus school of jacks.  Two days of diving at North Atoll was just perfect.

Day 3.    We were up again early for the 6am dive, with the skies somewhat overcast. We had the greatest surprise on that Sunday morning at Delsan Wreck!  We didn’t go to the wreck but stayed on the sandy slope with a shallow wall beyond resembling like a bowl.  There was some current and swam a bit like waiting, barely 9 minutes after descending I was at 30 meters when there was some commotion. Lo and behold – the whale shark!  Everything went fast, everybody was moving fast – I went deeper at 33.8m to get a good view watching in awe underneath. The great whale shark with white tips, gray reefs, tunas and giant trevally swimming with him side by side, and as if giving as a chance to take another look – they circled once more in great display for all of us.  The sight was so enthralling! Before we ascend, there was a large school of jacks before as we went shallower.  Our next descent was at the Lighthouse which didn’t disappoint us, we went to the wall covered with seafans and variety of corals.  We had sharks again- black tips and gray reef, barracuda, blue fin trevally, big morays, jacks, parrots and sea turtle.  After our surface interval for our third dive, the waters become choppy so DM Wally advised to defer our dive until the waters will be manageable.  We made our last descent for the day past 4pm already, grateful we made it. Black Rock was another wall dive, decorated with seafans, sponges and corals in variety of colors.  We sighted triggers, chromis, cardinals, groupers, sweet lips, puffers, wrasses and lot more.  It doesn’t matter we only had three descents for the day, the whale shark sighting was more than enough to compensate for it.  It was a blessed Sunday indeed at South Atoll….

Great whaleshark!
Great whaleshark!

Day 4.  On our last day, our boat went back to North Atoll for the scheduled dives. We had overcast skies again but everyone hoped we could complete the dives.  Our boat tender riding on the waves as we went to Malayan Wreck for our first descent, our group agreed to just stay at the wall and had an easy dive.  I just observed all the fish and creatures before me as I went through, although everyone’s hoping for another surprise. J There were yellow and black breams, damsels, surgeons, fusiliers, bluefin trevally, triggers, humphead wrasse, moray and of course sharks.  The white tip swimming coyly below me just like any ordinary fish.  The weather has been down cast and it started to drizzle already.  After more than two hours interval we geared for the next dive which was my last descent at the reefs, notifying our DM.  My noon flight the next day restricted me to let go of the last dive of the cruise.  There wasn’t rain anymore but the waves persisted.  We went back to Malayan Wreck determined to make most of my last descent as Fr John urged.  We went for the wall observing the fish life there, the visibility still good.  There were triggers, breams, trevally, snappers, fusiliers and variety of chromis.  After 40 minutes, I slowly ascend for my safety stop to a coral garden watching the reef fishes, then DM Wally signaled for a shark pointing ahead of me – there it was! On a spot of white sands about 6 meters from the surface, there lying flat on the sand a lone gray reef shark almost a meter in size.  Lying peacefully asleep on its habitat – what a wonderful sight! Perching behind the corals for few minutes, I watched it in awe J  Angel came over and went far by taking a photo – perhaps disturbed by the lights, it quickly swam away. L Though it was time to surface, we still linger in the coral garden until Angel pointed out the wreck just a little ahead of us – how can I be short-sighted! We quickly swam to the spot grateful that there wasn’t current, circled and went around. I was thrilled – I love wrecks! There was lot of dwellers down the wreck – giant groupers, trevally, sweet lips, wrasses, parrots and more – such an active fish life.  We managed to take some photos and explored a bit but heard signals to get back to chase boat for the ascent. It started to rain already and the waters getting more choppy.  Angel and I was the last as we raced back for the boat, which we can hardly see underwater.  We hold unto the boat as it quickly left the spot as the waves getting fiercer.  I hold on to Angel’s hand while we’re on the raging waters with the boat moving until he got on,  and the stairs was moved for me to climb up.   Sometimes you need to be tough to survive  certain conditions.  Anyway, the small wreck was a fine way to end my quest at the reefs, it was my longest dive during the cruise at 63 minutes.      We sped off riding on the waves to take refuge in the yacht.

Pair of many-spotted sweetlips

The great waterworld of Tubbataha is a piece of heaven on earth.  The exhilaration of being surrounded by colorful fish of great variety is simply hard to equal. It was a very moving experience. While you’ve probably seen photos and videos on diving, you won’t understand what it’s really like or how it really felt until you’ve experienced it yourself.

Tubbataha Waterworld

Tubbataha Reefs Dive Sites

Dive Summary
May 6-9, 2011

A list of our descents during our recent live aboard trip to the mysterious depths of the Sulu seas, a paradise called Tubbataha Reefs. It was a four-day of “eat, dive, sleep” bustle, obviously the mermaid in me was rejoicing fulfilling this great dream. It was such pure joy to be in the waters, watching breathtaking sights deep down, in silence.

Four wet days with thirteen dives in all, in one of stunning dive sites in Asia and one of World Heritage Site in the Philippines. Thirteen amazing dives that marked a highlight in my pursuits as a diver.

Day 1 North Atoll
1. Malayan Wreck – wall dive
Max depth: 31.4m
Bottom Time: 0:50H
Air left: 70 bars
Sightings:

White tip sharks, gray reef sharks, giant trevally, napoleon wrasse,
School of barracuda, variety of sea breams, snappers, sweetlips
(banded, oriental, spotted), variety of groupers, variety of wrasse
large gorgonians (lavender, yellow, green)
sea cucumbers (leopardfish, ananas, etc)
2. Wall Street – wall dive
Max. Depth: 23.0m
Bottom Time: 0:50H
Air left: 80 bars
Sightings:

White tip & gray reef sharks, variety of tropical fish
Variety of colorful sea fans
Soft corals
3. Amos Rock –
Max. Depth: 19.9m
Bottom Time: 0:50m
Air left: 70 bars
Sightings:

Sharks (more than 10), giant moray eel
Sweet lips, groupers, trigger fish. Parrotfish, Pufferfish
boxfish
4. Ranger Station – late afternoon
Max. Depth: 19.2m
Bottom Time: 0:45H
Air left: 90 bars
Sightings:

Groupers, sweet lips, snappers
Sea cucumbers

Note: Lesser fish life as it was dark already, could have taken refuge in their abodes

Day 2 North Atoll
5. Shark Airport
Max. Depth: 32.0m
Bottom Time: 0:46H
Air left: 100 bars
Sightings:

White tipsand gray reef sharks
Jacks, parrot fish, fusiliers
Thick gorgonians
6. Seafan Alley
Max. Depth: 23.4m
Bottom Time: 0:48H
Air Left: 70 bars
Sightings:

Snappers, triggers, wrasses, parrots
Surgeons, emperors, angels, pufferfish
Sea turtles (2)
7. Shark Airport
Max. Depth: 25.5m
Bottom Time: 0:49H
Air left: 100 bars
Sightings:

White tips, gray reef, silver tip Giant manta ray!
8. Seafan Alley
Max. Depth: 17.2m
Bottom Time: 0:51m
Air left: 70 bars
Sightings:

School of jacks, sharks, triggerfish
Sea cucumbers

Day 3 South Atoll
9. Delsan Wreck
Max. Depth: 33.8m
Bottom Time: 0:44H
Air left: 80 bars
Sightings:

Whale shark! About 5 meters with white tips & gray reef sharks, giant tunas and trevally trooping with him
School of jacks, triggers, bluefin trevally Sea turtle
10. Lighthouse (Delsan)
Max. Depth: 20.4m
Bottom Time: 0:53H
Air left: 80 bars
Sightings:

Black tips, gray reef, barracuda,
Blue fin trevally, moray eel
Sea turtle
Sea fans, se cucumbers
11. Black Rockdeferred due to water conditions
Max. Depth: 18.6m
Bottom Time: 0:48H
Air left: 100 bars
Sightings:

Seafans, sponges, corals covered the wall
Triggers, cardinals, chromis, damsels
Puffers, sweetlips, wrasses, groupers

Day 4 North Atoll
12. Malayan Wreck – wall dive
Max. Depth: 23.6m
Bottom Time: 0:53H
Air left: 80 bars
Sightings:

White tips sharks (2) perched on sand sleeping Bluefin trevally with napoleon wrasse Moray eel with a remora
Breams, snappers, fusiliers, emperors
13. Malayan Wreckwall, then sandy slope to the wreck
Max. Depth: 24.9m
Bottom Time: 1:03H
Air left: 90 bars
Sightings:

Gray reef shark (about 1m) perch on white sand, asleep
White tips sharks
Sea turtle
Triggers, sweet lips, groupers. Trevally, breams
Small ship wreck, 4m underwater when we had our tour around it

NB. Map courtesy of Expedition Fleet Cruises

A Cruise for a Lifetime

M/Y Hans Christian Andersen

In less than seventy-two hours, I’ll be on a cruise to a dream paradise – aboard on a beautiful yacht surrounded with blue waters.  With three priests – which includes Father President of FSUU (my alma mater), a bishop and a vicar – and a physician, it felt like I’m on pilgrimage to the holy land.  They are all from Butuan, yes all four of them from my home town. So it felt like I’m home.  More than that, I’m with my good friend and favorite dive buddy Angel to fulfill our dream to relish the splendor of the unequaled Tubbataha underwater paradise.

It would be my first time for a luxury cruise and without doubt I would love everything on this trip, I’ll be off again with one of my greatest love – diving!  And as I told Angel, I don’t want to go without him as we dreamed this together like more than two years back.  There’s no better than a friend who’ s too keen and passionate sharing a fervent wish and dream…

I’m driving myself for much work for the past days to compensate for the time I would be away, and I’m whining – why is it that there is much to do when I want to go away? On second thought I need it to get away from feeling spoiled from such opulence.  Now, as I pour my thoughts here I pause for awhile with twinkling eyes…

Our one big dream to a paradise called Tubbataha, one grand trip and our cruise for a lifetime!

Mad about Moalboal!

There is something relaxing in the depths…

Coming back to this rural town in western Cebu has been planned before I could even return home during a dive trip back in July 2009. It felt like there’s something more to discover in this place, and definitely with only one descent in Pescador Island, the mermaid in me didn’t get enough of its splendor in its depths!  Angel and I promised ourselves to be back…

Our diver’s itch is pestering again for the sardine’s run, such that Angel and I squeezed our weekend for this much awaited return.  I was hoping again to have three dives to make most of the trip, it was fortunate we took the van for Moalboal so we got to the diveshop much earlier as expected.  DM Geom of Cebu Dive Center have set up for us one shore dive in mid-morning  and two boat dives in the afternoon. As there were no other divers it was some kind of exclusive dive for us!

Gaudy Marine Life

We went for a shore dive on our first descent at the House Reef – DM Geom was firm that I should carry my gears on my back which I don’t really like.   If Mario was there, he wont allow it!  I struggled donning my fins with the tank on my back, and need to hold on with Angel for support.  DM Geom insisted that I’m not fit to dive if I can’t do it, and he is right!

We wade on a sandy slope and went deeper on a wall, DM Geom is so keen on macros so we search on anemones, sea fans and soft corals for critters – minute shrimps, nudis, coral crabs and more.  There were pipefish in abundance scattered all over – big and small ones. Of course the fish life is as well abundant – colorful anthias, sergeants, damsels, wrasses, sweetlips, angels, lionfish, hawkfish, cardinals and banners.  We followed a juvenile barramundi who was camera shy, we found two turtles in different locations who both have remoras on their backs! We were amused with the lavender fat nudis on a colorful coral.  There were gorgonians, soft corals, crinoids – all blended in the reefs.  A good find we had was the thor shrimp near the anemones.

We went back and before we had our safety stop, we found a turtle resting on a reef with remoras on its back.  After 53 minutes with 21.6m as our deepest, we ascend with still 89 bars of air.  Our lunch break at the Little Corner served as our surface interval.

Spotted lavender nudibranch

Our second descent was the highlight of the day, this is our main reason for coming back – explore once more Pescador Island!  We are mad about the mystical sardines run – the unequalled wonderful attraction of the island.  After cruising for about fifteen minutes, we descend at the southern tip with a wall, a deep one but we need to maintain at 20m depth.  We were greeted with variety of tropical fishes – variety of anthias, variety of anemone fish, damsels, snappers, lionfish and angel fish.  We went north ward and we sighted squat lobster and nudis – one just need sharp eyes and you’ll always have colorful macros.  Scorpion fish, trumpet and pipefish – somewhere we sighted also a herd of trevally.  All these with a backdrop of soft and hard corals, crinoids, sponges merge together a colorful paradise.

Colorful depths…

DM Geom summoned us pointing upward – and there, darkened our view above us – million of sardines!  We swam away from the wall towards the run – watching in awe, I went up and down to get near giving me a bad profile. So grand, all them banded together, then two jacks appeared disturbing their line of path. We got back to the wall after the display and went shallower on a slope of reefs for our safety stop.  We found frogfish on tube coral, boxfish and more of the sardines again.  They have really gotten greater in number – they look so magical on the colorful reefs against the sunlight!    We ascend with 50 minutes bottom time, still 70 bars of my air.  At the surface, the waters gone rough already – the sea is enraged according to DM Geom!  He cancelled our last dive in the island and escaped from the raging waters, then speed near the mainland for shelter.

Ornate ghost pipefish!

Indeed when we got to Talisay spot, the were no signs of choppy surface – it was so calm, we stayed there for our interval.  We had our final descent at 4:05pm on a sandy slope with variety of corals again, gorgonians, hydroids and crinoids – there were puffers, colourful clown fish and anthias again.  Then DM Geom summoned us for the ornate ghost pipefish trying to camouflage near soft coral polyps – rare find! We found a turtle again with the remora fish on him, handful of pipefish, lionfish, scorpion fish and group of puffers.  The sight of the healthy corals with tropical fishes on it was so calming and relaxing.  We ascend after 48 minutes with 80 bars of air and 18.3 meters as our deepest.

Fully Laden Day

Catching an early fight for Mactan, two hour drive to Moaboal, three great dives in its waters are more than enough for a Saturday.  It was full but so comforting – to unwind a full week at work. It still amaze me that in a real sense, it’s an exhaustive bustle yet at the end of the day, the mermaid in me felt so contented and pleased, unmindful of being tired.  Again, it can never be put in words.

Once more, we are still planning to be back in Moalboal to dive not only once ,but more in Pescador.  Angel and I will be back again for sure.  Now, that I guess is pure madness!

Seizing Tubbataha Dream!

Prologue:

Measuring 99,600 hectares in size, the Tubbattaha Reef National Marine Park (TRNMP) is made up of 2 atolls rising in the middle of the Sulu Sea. A Study by Conservation International has confirmed what Scientists long theorized, that it is the nursery for fish and coral larvae that populates the Sulu-Sulawesi Triangle  – an area that not only covers the most important and productive fishing grounds of the Philippines but extends as far south as Malaysia and Indonesia.

So important is this submerged structure in the balance of the underwater eco- system that UNESCO declared it a world heritage site as far back as 1993. In 1998, Former Philippine President Fidel Ramos, a keen diver himself, created Task Force Tubbataha and a station equipped with radar and manned by zealous rangers was established and now guards the park 24/7.

Several factors are responsible for the almost virgin conditions of this underwater jewel. The convergence of currents constantly brings in a barrage of the nutrients and clean water a healthy reef and its inhabitants demand. Being the largest and almost lone structure in the middle of a vast expanse of ocean guarantees a healthy influx of pelagic visitors looking for a meal and other services an underwater community provides.

Being almost a hundred nautical miles from the nearest port, access is only through Live-aboard vessels and voyages to the park are determined by the weather. A small window-from late March to early June when calm seas and clear skies are the best and only times for divers to visit. The strong winds and rough swells the rest of the year deters both authorized and un-authorized incursions into the park and permits the reef to settle back into its natural state of regeneration. *

December 2008.  The idea came to invade the mysterious depths of Sulu seas, when Angel and I planned and pledged ourselves for Dive Tubbataha 2010.  They said it’s the holy grail for divers in the country and you can never be an accomplished one unless you explored its depths.  But more than proving to ourselves and counting sites visited, we wanted desperately to experience and catch sight of the glorious beauty of this elusive paradise – an epitome of the exquisiteness of creation!

Our plans were put in order:  dive as often our schedules and pockets can allow, earn course necessary to increase our capacity, acquire necessary gears, learn lessons from every dive we had, and more.  Enjoying every bit of the journey towards this dream.  The banner of  “Dive Tubbataha 2010” brandishing Angel’s travel log since early 2009.

But things didn’t turn out as planned and visiting the reefs last year was cancelled and deferred indefinitely. It didn’t dampen our spirits though and I always believed there is always a time for everything, a perfect time.  And trusting that the Lord always knows what’s best, that waiting is part of his answers to prayers.  And so we wait…

December 2010.    Two years exactly when Angel and I both pledged ourselves to this promise like a covenant.  The message came unexpectedly, without any hint through a priest.  I was diving one quiet Sunday for my last dive of the year, just six days before Christmas.  Fr. John Young, SJ whom I just met, simply asked if I want to join them in their Tubba trip – I was caught off guarded – surprises always come in unlikely situations.  That was my greatest gift last Christmas, indeed real gifts don’t come on packages and bows!

I have to relay the news to Angel, as always I had the last word for our dive trips – he simply threw it back to me to decide. I waited for about two weeks to listen if we’d really go. It is expensive and it would mean some preparations to be put in order in just four months – it meant stretching budget in the next months when we have other scheduled trips already.

Now, just barely seven weeks before our cruise on first week of May I can’t help being excited for the journey, though I don’t want to spill any hint of excitement!  😛  I’m writing this note to set a milestone,  the wait wasn’t really long and I thank the Lord for  granting this favor and for always working out things for me in countless times – in His own terms.

A passion burning incessantly in my inner core.  Dear Tubbataha, here we come!

*Quoted from www.tubbatahareef.org