Travel – Life in the Great Beyond

Iloilo’s Gems: Food, Art, and Heritage

December 3, 2024February 20, 2025cbartazo

Promising myself one slow travel before the year end was one of my agenda in the last quarter, it was also a long-planned visit to a friend who wanted a meet up sans official duties. Well, just a year ago I was in the city for few hours as a pass-through to Bacolod City for some official trip. That was more convenient since CEB has daily flights to Iloilo City from Cagayan de Oro. The City of Love is one of my favorite cities, and I was truly looking forward for that last weekend in October for the visit.

Something Old

I love visiting again and again because of Iloilo’s great culinary choices, which are my favorite such as KBL, paella, callos, arroz valenciana and scallops! Where every food is namit gid, right? Such that my first stop when I got downtown from the airport was Ponsyon (by Brealthrough) at La Plazuela, for dinner with my friend.

It was drizzling on that Sunday but first things first. We attended the 8am mass in Molo Church (Church of St. Anne Parish) for a start, for some reason my visit in the city is not complete without coming here. I guess I got attracted with its gothic architecture just like those old churches in Europe! The showers didn’t stop as we wander a bit in Molo Plaza, crossing to the nearby Molo Mansion. Old structures never failed to amaze me. We decided to take our late breakfast in one of those small cafés that lined the mansion compound, while waiting for the rains to stop.

We hailed a jeepney to Villa-Arevalo district to revisit Camiña Balay nga Bato (Avanceña Ancestral House), as usual we were shown around after the short video to the delight of my friend. She is based in Iloilo but she never got to come in the old house which dates back in 1865 when the Philippines was still a Spanish colony. This house is really ancient with rich cultural heritage – the pillars, walls, windows, furniture & fixtures, the grand staircase which was tilted steep for protection. We learned that you need to climb up the stairs sideways holding long skirt to prevent from falling! So, we went up to the kitchen and dining area for our bites, with some lessons on the ilustrado way of sipping the tsokolate! This is the best part of the house tour! We requested for refill enjoying the delicious hot tsokolate, chatted longer at the long table until more guests came over. I guess they had the best tasting hot tsokolate, they had a trade secret in its preparation and the organic tablea are from their own cacao produce.

Our very late lunch cum dinner (past 3pm) was in my old time favorite Healthy Kitchen, they have transferred to another location which is just walking distance from Festive Walk. That same healthy plant-based food I kept coming back in my previous visits in the city – fresh fruit lemonades, vietnamese fresh spring rolls (wrapped in rice paper), quesadilla, arroz a la cubana! 😊

At the airport while waiting for my flight and after buying pinasugbo and bandi for pasalubong, I got hot La Paz batchoy for my late lunch and it was just good as it was. Yes, always namit gid! 😊

Something New

I am a museum junkie so if ever I got the chance, I love to visit even briefly. Indeed, there was lack of time. I was planning to revisit the Museo Iloilo but nil, I was aiming for the Iloilo Museum of Contemporary Arts (IloMOCA) which is something new to me! I need some thing to stir my curiosity of colorful works and I read good reviews on the exhibits. The Festive Walk is a new commercial district by Megaworld in Mandurriao, just a kilometer from SM City which was new to me, though it was not necessary to see the complex I need to be there due to IloMOCA. I guess the place was more flashy during the night but I was there in broad daylight for the exhibits. The museum is housed in Casa de Emperador, a three-floor modern building, far from those ancient structured museums. The first museum in Visayas and Mindanao dedicated to modern and contemporary art.

It was fortunate I caught up with their “Lamang Dagat” exhibit featuring local young artists to promote awareness in marine protection and conservation. I was glad how widespread the marine world protection issues got attention from all walks of life. The young generation awareness could harness more efforts for the movement, after all the future belongs to them! I spent more than three hours for the exhibits, it was a rush indeed and I wish I could spend more time just sitting on those benches but maybe next time. I guess choosing your priorities where to spend more is the game inside museums, one can never get enough time.

Obviously, ILOMOCA was the highlight of this trip. As I was packing for my trip home, I peeked from my hotel window and I saw Guimaras Island just beyond. I guess it was a sign to cruise for the island again, maybe I can get a chance next time when I‘m in the city once more. Who knows? 😊

Disclosures:

Entrance fee at Camina Balay nga Bato is PhP 150.00 inclusive of refillable hot tsokolate!
Entrance fee at ILOMOCA is PhP 150.00 for adults and PhP 120.00 for students.
Molo Mansion has no entrance fee, it housed a Kultura souvenir shop.
Healthy Kitchen Café is located at Abeto St., Mandurriao just walking distance from Festive Walk
Vans going to and from the airport are available to save transportation costs, way to go for backpackers as it’s much cheaper than taking the taxi

A Day Tour to Carles: Budget-Friendly Island Escapades

November 25, 2024November 19, 2025cbartazo

Have you heard of Carles? This town is 147 kilometers away from Iloilo City but fortunately I made it round trip just to visit the islands. It was possible but well, forget about the slow trips I wanted after my retirement! The islands have been elusive to me, though I have visited the town few years back for a DIY Sicogon Island cruise and Mt. Opao trek. The province of Iloilo has still a lot in store for adventure.

At first, I thought I need to stay overnight in the town, it was fortunate I came across a day tour package to the islands and the deal was purely cost saving! It means waking up at 4am for the long trip, it was fine though we arrived at Bancal port before 8am which was just right for the 830am meet up. 😊 The weather was downcast, they said cruises to the islands were cancelled in the past days. Again, it was perfect timing that cruises were back after clearance from PCG on that Saturday!

Sailing in open seas with subdued skies!

We all piled up in our respective boats, I dunno how they arranged the joiners but all were strangers. I chose the second-row seat from the front to protect me from the splashing waves just in case. My seat mates were young couple whom I forgot to ask their names, quiet and pleasant and never rowdy. 😊There was a long wait and the boat finally left past 9am already.

The first stop was in Ojatras Island (Pulupandan), it has white sand beach with clear waters, decorated with unique rock formations. We were given time to explore around and shortly, we left for the next point aiming for Tangke Lagoon. The water was rough as we sailed and docking at the spot was impossible, the waves was turbulent and getting out of the boat with those rock and limestone cliff was just dangerous. The crew asked to skip the lagoon for obvious reasons.

We piled up again on our boat and sailed for Antonia Point, having an overtime before lunch so we can have a long and relaxed dining later as the crew suggested. 😊 This small island has a resort, little store for snacks & essentials, and few residents which I think the owner of the establishments. The long white coast was lined up with coconut trees and there were tables and benches for guests to relax on the beach. It has a good swimming area too with interesting rock formations at end point. I got the chance to mingle and chatted with the crew and asked if there’s scuba diving in the islands given the blue surrounding waters but there was none. I was wondering why, there was no doubt its depths could offer rich and diverse marine environment for enthusiasts.

The boat dropped off instead in Bantigue Sandbar after getting a message from their admin that lunch prep was still on-going, as we were heading to Cabugao Sur for that lunch break. The white sandbar was naked, a stretch of sand long enough for an easy stroll, the waters was clear enough and those waves riveted the shores with flapping sounds. Each on his own but Emman the friendly guide made the joiners comfortable, randomly offering to take photos for anyone who needs assistance.

We finally headed for our lunch to Cabugao Sur but alas, we need to wade waist deep to the shores more than a hundred meters! The sumptuous lunch was waiting, I was more interested of my favorite scallops! 😊 Yes, unlimited scallops – grilled and boiled – so perfect for my cravings. There were crabs, squid, shrimps and more scallops! Then I happened to sit during our meals with three friendly ladies from Davao City who chatted with me, though they were in another boat. I think everyone was purely delighted with the abundant food. 😊

The famous Cabugao Gamay island was our last hop, I guess the icon of the islands located in the southernmost tip. The white beach on both sides, foliage, some rock formations and that hill to climb up and watch 360° view from the top. They said this viewpoint is known as selfie island, because generally all tourists who got there up will get their photos. I agree it’s a must-see spot but sadly, one is only allowed 5-7 minutes to be there to give way for others. In the end, we sailed for Bancal Port almost 4pm glad that the weather favored us with waters calm enough for the cruise. But then, we need to leave before the sunset could display its golden hues.

We had a smooth trip back to Iloilo City and was drop off in my hotel past 8pm, the arrangements went fine and that quickie trip to Carles for the islands was a good deal, I guess. By the way, this is an island-hopping trip so be ready to get wet! 😊

Disclosures:

There was a myth and common belief that tall human beings believed to be giants lived in the place a long, long time ago thus, the name Isla Gigantes!
The Joiners’ day tour costs PhP 1,099.00 per pax inclusive of lunch; round trip aircon van Iloilo City-Bancal Port-Iloilo City costs PhP 700.00 with pick-up and drop off at respective hotel.
Accommodations are available in the islands located in Cabugao Sur and Antonia Point
Be ready with the essentials – swim wear, dry pack for valuables, sunscreen and water for hydration.

San Vicente: Wildlife and Idyllic Islands

October 5, 2024February 21, 2025cbartazo

Palawan is always synonymous to clear waters, white beaches, serene islands and wildlife that are endemic in this last frontier of the country. I had the chance to see few remote and hidden spots while staying for two months in San Vicente.

Our late-night beach patrols allowed me to encounter the Palawan badgers, known in local dialect as “Pantot”. We were walking on the beach in darkness when from the corner of my eye I saw small eye pairs glowing in the dark (like penlights) a little distance from the shores and the foul smell in the air. The badgers only go out at night for food hunt, I guess. They are nocturnal and wandered around the shores, we saw footprints going to the waters, I guess they are having marine critters for food. The smell though was just so unbearable. The Palawan tree squirrels, locally known as “Bising” are also common in the wild, I saw few while on the road, scrambling as we passed by. They look exactly as squirrels but smaller and very timid. There are wild ducks too that I saw swimming not really far from our station for hatchery checks, they come in group fishing for food but too far away to get some photos. 😊And yes, we saw monkeys crossing the road when we drive to another barangay for some data gathering. Those were what I encountered during my brief stay not to mention the Olive Ridley sea turtles that nests along the coastlines of the town.

Photo credits to www.inaturalist.org for North Palawan Badger and Palawan Tree Squirrel

Wild ducks cooling themselves on the waters

We had the chance also to tread its surrounding waters and see secluded islands during team’s day out, hiring two boats from locals. We were up earlier than usual for the food prep, and sailed almost mid-day already. The good thing was the spots were below tourist radar, so there were no people around, it was all to ourselves!

Our first stop was in Bay Island where we had our lunch, we landed on a patch of uninhabited white beach with clear waters, foliage, trees and few rocks – so perfect for idyllic swim. It was a sunny day but the sea breeze was just good as we linger for a long lunch, and swam later. 😊

We sailed next for the picturesque Imurowan Island though that white beach we hop unto was just at the back of the property, it was actually a private island. Its front has on-going works and development for a resort they said and it’s an exclusive site for the owners. It was lovely, just watching the horizons while listening to the waves. Mt. Kapuas the highest point of North Palawan can be seen too. We stayed longer here just taking the serenity of the place.

We sailed once more for our last stop at Buntot ng Pagi, a rock formation submerged in the waters maybe shaped like a stingray tail though I didn’t take a closer look if it really was. There was no beach, but we stop and anchored the boat. All of us got out from our boats and swam in the cold afternoon waters, there was no current. 😊

These were just few of the natural wonders I witnessed in San Vicente and I knew that there were many more hidden from naked eyes. I was wondering for the marine creatures underwater that can be found if we only dive in its depths!

NB.

San Vicente is one of the 23 municipalities of Palawan located in the north, which is 176 kilometers from Puerto Princesa and 124 Kilometers to El Nido.

Diving Adventures in Moalboal: A Return to Paradise

July 20, 2024January 29, 2025cbartazo

After a wonderful sojourn and matching discoveries in Sibaltan, another diving trip was put to order in June. Yes, in summer like it used to be! For some time, I was aiming and wanted to be back in Cabilao Island but conditions were not favorable, a weekend was too short for the trip. Our instinct just urged us and we randomly decide for our fave destination in southern Cebu. It was almost five years since our last visit and it was like a homecoming!

Just like my quirky escapes – late flight, no proper meals, early dawn bus ride – yet arrived safely in town still dark. My buddy and I realized now that Moalboal is not too far from the city, we barely had three hours on the road. After five years though, there has been lot of noticeable changes, the roads are wider paved all the way, and that old acacia tree at the junction going to Panagsama Beach is now obscured with new structures. More buses are routing to south and realistically dawn rides barely had stops along the road! If not for the bus crew alerting us for the stop, we could have slept all along and ended somewhere else! 😊 So, we wind up at Jolibee’s-24H as our refuge while still dark, and had our early coffee there.

Just when day breaks, we hailed a trike that brought us to Ananas Guesthouse and accordingly had our much-needed nap! Just enough to freshen me up until 9am, to have my essentials for the day – my dailies and repacking of needed gears, we were expected for the 10:30am dive schedule at Savedra Dive Center.

Mystical Depths

An eye catching but very significant to divers is this slogan at the diveshop, “Some of us must live underwater.” It brought me thinking that I can only come for a visit in an hour or so, if only that’s possible – if only… The wall chart had our names with DM Vernel indicated Pescador Island as our first dive! We organized our gears and had my regulator for necessary check for leaks, in no time we piled up on the dive boat. We had two other divers with our DM, there are two other larger groups in our boat also heading for Pescador. It was looming before us as we cruised towards the island, there were boats already mooring in a short distance. After the briefing, we assembled with our DM and did our giant stride entry.

We navigated south to west (yes, this route made us a full circle of the island!) with our right shoulder to the wall, wonderful critters abound – a juvenile yellow frogfish, twice we encountered stonefish – alone and a couple in another spot, a scorpionfish camouflaged between the corals, lionfish, reef fishes and few bivalves that snapped as we passed by. Even with the devastation of typhoon Odette in December 2021, which is visible in its terrain yet still the critters thrived and have decorated the wall. Our DM peeked on corals and crevices for micros – few nudis, coral shrimps and coral crabs were lurking on them almost invisible if not for our DMs keen eyes. It was just so interesting searching for these tricky invertebrates, you don’t know what you find and I would always wonder that such animals exist! I wouldn’t know if don’t descend in the depths. We went around floating weightless in silence, now and then I’d look for my buddy as it should be, to be mindful in every beat. Slowly we went up from the wall over a patch of corals, until we have our safety stop. In no time our DM deployed his SMB, I signaled Angel for our ascent. We all assembled and boarded the boat as it got near to fetch us. I had 55 minutes with 23.8m as deepest, still with 100 bars.

Our pizza lunch was perfect as our surface interval, light but full. We chose Veranda Kitchen & Bar overlooking the shores for some sea breeze relaxing for the next dive.

We promptly went back at the dive shop to prepare for the next descent checking our gears, and alas Angel’s dive computer was nowhere in sight! Our last descent as scheduled was at Ludo which was something new to us, our DM informed that the highlight of this site is the sitting Mermaid statue which sound interesting! The plan was a shore dive but, in the end, they got us unto the boat as they were going northwest and just drop us off near our site. We were separated from the large group, so it’s like an exclusive dive for me and Angel because our DM said we had low air consumption compared to others! 😊We gave up looking for the dive computer and went on.

We did the entry again in giant stride, feeling the warm afternoon waters. In no time, we descend anticipating for some surprise. And there she was surrounded with some rocks, sitting quietly looking up as if waiting for someone to come and join her fantasies! We circled and lingered briefly watching her, then proceed to float silently on the sandy slope. I was glad there was no sighting of trashes, I guess the community have managed well on waste disposal and I remembered clearly in our last dive here, there were no visible trashes. Sadly though, typhoon Odette have left damage in the coral reefs and still haven’t recovered. Visibly, it isn’t as colorful before but still we had amazing finds among the thriving corals – orange frogfish couple, nudis, anemone shrimp, banded pipefish, moray eel. The rare ghost pipefish was a real surprise too! We floated we got into a large school of scads, then finally the sardines appeared above us! I turned around, all I saw was large throng of the silvery fishes.

And I always find joy in the depths just floating in silence with only the sound of my breathing audible, with the sardines swimming in unison. How marvelous, nature indeed knew how to stage an amazing show! We continued floating in the midst of this trance, absorbing the beauty and wonder until slowly we ascend in the shallows. Swimming toward the channel, we remained underwater for faster navigation. It was a long swim, thankfully the current was just manageable. I kept near especially that Angel don’t have his dive computer. Finally, we emerged up very near the shores right in the dive shop channel. I needed help walking back to the shop, and luckily, I still had the strength to carry my gears on my own! I went 66 minutes at 19 meters as deepest, still with 70 bars of air.

Well, the tiring part again was the after dive care of the gears, in our final packing Angel’s dive computer suddenly was found in the corner which put smiles on our faces! 😊 We finally left after things settled walking back leisurely to our lodgings about kilometer away. I watched sunsets here and even laze around at White Beach but it’s different now as we’re stationed distant from the shores. Still, Moalboal will always be a favorite go to for my diving escape.

Unwritten Rule

Somehow, our after-dive tradition is to have decent dinner, to compensate for spent energy but mainly to celebrate the good dives, wonderful sightings, good weather and meeting randomly new faces who were kind to us. To be thankful for this wonderful gift of exploring the depths, not everyone had the opportunity to do so. In my life tapestry, diving is a thread that adds vibrancy and warmth of my being.

Panagsama is now filled-up with lot of establishments not to mention restos and bars lined up along the road, in the night it became a rowdy tourist setting. We settled that evening at Blue Mango Bar after an assessment with others. The next morning, after meeting and thanking our French host we left for the city. We continued to splurge for a sumptuous lunch at Everyday Coffee and Tea in downtown Cebu.😊

We can only celebrate the good things bestowed, life is too short not to be grateful for His abundant graces!

NB. Photos courtesy of http://www.lakwatsero.com

Exploring Sibaltan: A Hidden Gem for Divers

June 10, 2024January 29, 2025cbartazo

At the start of the year, many agendas were set in place and some of these were plans that were put off for awhile due to other priorities. But just like every year beginnings, so many recurring interruptions occurred just the way it used to be. Nevertheless, terminating my services in my workplace was final and the necessary arrangements have continued carefully and smoothly to cushion the impact of expected bumps of my departure. Keeping my cool was the least I could do to manage a smooth transition.

Obviously, diving trips is included in the plans for the year. Perhaps to compensate during the pandemic era when I had none for three years and last year with only one dive trip was almost nothing. Exactly, I need to start off with somewhere new, a place to discover and gain more learnings as I wanted to. And I waited long enough to once again immerse myself in the stillness and silence in the depths!

Sibaltan has been in my list for some time, coming here though has been shelved momentarily for some valid reasons, visiting this barangay required much longer time than the usual quirky weekend trips. I managed a brief visit last year during a detour from an official trip and eagerly promised to return in no time for the depths. Marine enthusiasts had been arriving in this remote coastal community for the wonderful rare manta ray sighting. There are only three (3) sites in the country for mantas and Sibaltan is one! Although I wasn’t sure when but I was resolute to set foot again in this laid-back barangay.

Thankfully, my volunteer works in the town of San Vicente (in March and April) gave me good access to other towns in Palawan, so after my two-month works I went straight to El Nido setting aside four days for the detour. Right, solely for the awaited dives in Sibaltan! I was like a fish out of water after almost ten months of no dives, my gills were just pretty dried up.

I was aiming for Dive Sibaltan diveshop after a brief encounter with Ms. Rose in my last visit, the good thing was the shop have environment friendly cottages now ready for guests. And being on the eastern side, it gave an ample view of the beautiful sunrise. I needed to slow down and decided to have a relaxing night before the scheduled three dives the next day. Yes, in my comfortable pace.

Apart from El Nido

This northeast barangay forty-one (41) kilometers away is a stark contrast from the main town, far from being congested, rowdy and busy. It was so peaceful and the locals were very helpful and friendly. I was just in time when one cottage was vacated few hours after I arrived, so I went for a relaxed long lunch at Floresita’s Beach Resort until 2pm for the check-in. I love the cottage facing the waterfront, the wide expanse of the horizon was so calming.

The next morning was slow and unhurried with the lovely sunrise appeared cheerily. I took it as a promise of a wonderful day! There were two group of divers for that day, I was joined with three Deutsch who were also aiming for the manta, under DM Timur. I have to use the shop’s stuff for my gears except my dive computer, rarely will I do without my own wetsuit but I had no choice. We all boarded the dive boat with the crew and cruise for “Saan Ka” for about twenty five minutes, where the mantas have four cleaning stations. We all entered the waters in giant stride, one of the Deutsch (Christian) was assigned as my buddy, DM Tim signaled to follow him. We descend to sandy bottom and carefully followed our DM as we hopped from one station to the next, in between were some rocks that sheltered few critters and reef fishes. The visibility was a little shady, but it was good enough to find blue spotted ray and a turtle. DM Tim inspected a whip and found a skeleton shrimp! We waited after every station stop but the was no sign of mantas. I spent a good 73 minutes with my deepest at 18.1 meters, my air down to 70 bars.

After an hour of interval, our boat maneuvered and anchored for the Wild East site, which revealed a colorful reef filled with variety of corals – soft, branching, rubber, cabbage as well as barrel sponges. Taking a closer look was good enough to find critters, bivalves that quickly snap as I passed, nudis and a stonefish! Lots of reef fishes swimming coyly over the reef – chromis, sand perch, batfish, angels, butterfly, banners, wrasses, lizardfish and the ever-wiggling anthias. 😊 Androids, whips and some worms were also tucked between and under crevices. The second dive had 60 minutes bottom time at 17 meters deepest, still with 100 bars.

Our late lunch served as our surface interval for more than an hour, the boat anchored just of of Binulbulan island. I had a brief chat also with my buddy Christian and the LAMAVE volunteer for manta ray conservation who joined us in the dives for data works of the day.

DM Tim randomly suggested to try again Saan Ka for our last dive, in case a manta would give us a chance. Out of curiosity I asked the volunteer the usual time that mantas visit the cleaning station, casually Gucci said it’s normally in mid-morning. So, it would be pure luck if we got one but there’s no harm in trying. I quickly turned to Christian before we jumped off and asked to hold unto him, just in case I have trouble with my buoyancy during my safety stop of which he said not a problem. 😊

We descend to the sandy bottom carefully observing any signal from DM Tim, we followed him slowly as he carefully peeked on whips, corals and grasses looking for critters. A blue spotted ray camouflaging on the sand suddenly flipped away as we approached. We leisurely went around on the sandy bottom, a turtle showed up unperturbed of our presence. DM Tim gave it a handful of sea algae which gobbled it hungrily! Then, slowly DM Tim poked something on the sand, it revealed a pair of flounder which quickly wiggled away. I rarely had encounters with flounder, it was interesting. Then, unexpectedly not far from us, a shadowy figure hovered above the last station over few rocks and corals with fishes swimming coyly. Our DM pointed it out and carefully we came closer watching in awe of the lone manta, it stayed in our midst flapping slowly. We came too close that our DM tugged our fins signaling to move away a little, my buddy and I stayed anchored on the sandy bottom just looking up making most of the remaining time until my NDL was down to 3 minutes. I signaled to our DM for the safety stop as I slowly ascend with a little wave for the manta. It was a success, a wonderful surprise from the wild! My dive computer went Greek when I was doing my safety stop, which our DM signaled okey until my thumbs up for the ascend. I did 59 minutes with 17.8 meters as deepest, my air still at 70 bars.

We had a cheery mode as we got into the boat, so glad with the sightings until we sailed for the shores. In awe, the encounters affirmed how diverse and mysterious the depths as always. It was a good decision to be back for the last dive at Saan Ka after all. Ms. Rose was so glad when she learned we found a manta in our last dive, it’s been more than three weeks since their last sighting. 😊It was another memorable descent, new learnings and successful trip in search of the elusive manta!

For me, Sibaltan is a place to be, a hidden gem tucked in its remoteness. A spot to recharge, relax and appreciate the serenity of rural setting. And, obviously to be one with nature, to be in the bosom of its depths!

NB. Sorry, no underwater photos during my dives.

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