Rivers, Falls, Islands

Surigao Sur golden sunrise!

Few months back, I went south in the Caraga region to experience nature’s wonders in this remote corner in Mindanao. The trip actually was like shooting several birds with one stone – while on an official meeting, I visited three amazing spots.  Although I was reminding myself that we have work to do and it must be first things first – I was thrilled, I have wanted to visit these spots long time ago!

Surigao del Sur although still rustic in setting and often times with threatened peace and order situation has amazing wonders tucked in the rural areas.  It is dotted with islands and idyllic white beaches, has great marine life, endowed with rivers, falls and lakes.  The province is actually a remarkable destination for nature lovers, most of which are unspoiled and mysterious.

Enchanted River

I have never seen a blue river before – just this one and that’s a real wonder. It’s a remote place and the trip is long, it lies in Barangay Talisay in Hinatuan, one of the coastal towns in Surigao Sur.  Getting into the spot felt like you’re transported into another world in a different dimension, it’s a surreal experience.  Although the spot is now developed to cater tourist & visitors, the river is maintained in its original form.

Blue, blue river!

The bluish water is caused by the white pavement stone formation slanting towards the bed just like a wall.  Since it is white, the blue sky reflected just like what we see on white beaches with blue waters.  It’s about 30 feet deep, the water is salty and marine life exists.  There were sweetlips, snappers and rabbitfish which actually thrive in sea water!  This river is connected underneath with the sea, in fact there is a cave on its head believed to be direct to the deeps.  A nature’s wonder indeed!

Great for snorkeling!

Although diving is not allowed, a group of certified cave divers were granted to do exploratory dive, but it was too deep before they could reach its end – it was a bottomless pit!  The cold blue water is great for swimming, and with active fish life it is also great for snorkeling.

Tinuy-an Falls

The trip to Bislig City was also long, going through rough roads and getting into the forest – mountains, lush vegetations and hectares of untilled lands will meet you as you go your way.  From the entrance, in between is a wide clearing

Tinuy-an Falls, a wonderful gift of nature!

perhaps by nature is for people to watch its great splendor, a three-tiered falls dubbed as Little Niagara due to its wide span of cascading waters.  It was too wonderful to behold from afar, like I was engulfed in such majesty!

Rafting for the falls!

It was so natural, with cool fresh air and green backdrop.  Going to the topmost is allowed and you can wade in the waters in every tier or get a body massage from the gushing waters – feels so good.  At the ground pool, by means of raft one can get nearer the falls but the water is too rough for swimming, but the sound of fierce fall of waters is too reviving.  Discovering this magnificent falls is worth the trip!

Britania Group

This group of islands has been in my list to visit, it was pure blessing since our lodgings was in San Agustin town so we had good access to the islands.  It has a total of 24 islets – all uninhabited, but only five are commonly visited by

Summer is for blue skies, turquoise waters, white sands!

tourists.  These islets belong to Barangay Britania, a coastal community which maintained two marine sanctuaries. The municipality of San Agustin is a partner for MRDP projects and a GEF site, a municipality active in preservation and protection of marine resources.

Just one of the islands in Britania group – Buslon Islet

Although we were advised by the boatman to have an early cruise for the high tide, we left for the islands past twelve noon under the hot blazing sun!  But it was all perfect – all the three islets we hopped were with white pristine beach – Hagonoy, Naked and Buslon islands.  As it was during weekdays, the islands were all to ourselves – we swam and frolic to all our hearts content.  It was pure nature fun under the sun, surrounded with cool blue waters while watching the nearby islets. So serene, so beautiful, so wonderful!

Travel Notes

How to get to San Agustin:

CdO to Butuan  – Aircon bus at P 337.00
Butuan to San Francisco, Agusan del Sur – Aircon bus at P 142.00
San Francisco to Brgy. Britania, San Agustin – Non aircon bus at P 72.00 or P 80.00 by van

Balicasag Island: Milestone Dives

Balicasag Island

I knew I have to be back to Balicasag Island to dive and savor once more its underwater life. This is the place where it all started – my fascination of the great marine life. While on a family vacation six years ago, I snorkeled with my sister at the marine sanctuary.  I was lost in awe with the blue, blue waters and beyond.  I have promised myself to become a diver since then…

Alone in Alona

Arriving very early in Tagbilaran, I have so much time to spare. How ironic when there’s so much to do back at work, here I am wandering in the city square!  After attending mass at the cathedral, I crossed to the plaza watching a large flock of doves on the ground, feeling like I’m in Hyde Park.  Though Panglao town can be reached by 20 -25 minutes by car, I arrived at my lodgings near Alona Beach after an hour through a mini-bus and trycicle rides.

Alona Beach afternoon

The staff of JJ Alona was kind enough to guide me as I went to the bustling district of Alona Beach. Though I was aiming to go direct to Sierra Madre Divers, she insisted I must try Tropical Divers (previously Pro-Safari Divers) which was recommended by DM Geom. I believe it was an excellent dive operator but it was bit pricey. The Danish manager Karl, was also friendly who promised to organize a Balicasag trip with me if I should decide. I tried to ask for D4 strap but not available, though he assured to get one if I stay longer in the island.  Anyhow, we left for Sierra Madre to register, glad that they have two boats for Balicasag the next day.  After asking for the DM assigned to me (DM Bart will be with the chinese OW students in another boat) and departure time, we walked back to JJ Alona but not without passing the bustling beach. I remembered Boracay and Puerto Galera!

There were no other guests, a quite place is all I need with the rest of the afternoon.  It was raining hard…

Balicasag and Kalipayan

Despite the rain, the sun shone brightly the next morning. Though I arrived earlier as expected, the shop staff was already on their toes, and the place was filled with guests.  I was joined with local government staff of Carmen, Bohol who was friendly and generous to me.  They found it surprising that I am alone.  We cruised for about 20 minutes until we moored in one of the bouys floating about 100 metres from the island’s shore.

nudi on corals- both colorful

Our first descent was at Black Forest, I was hoping to encounter again the giant napoleon wrasses like last time.  Since the group were new divers and it took awhile for their preparation, I requested my dive guide to descend ahead.  Now I know, that’s what other divers felt when I was yet a newbie –  it felt like forever to wait .  We descend on sandy ground, with corals and tropical fishes abound.  There was current, so we drifted along until we got into a wall decorated with soft and hard corals.  There were invertebrates – colourful nudis, cleaner shrimp, and anemone crab.  A green turtle graced us but was too shy, it fled away as soon as it noticed us around.  There was variety of tropical fishes hovering on corals, sponges and anemones.  Although the marine life was still active, I noticed there wasn’t much larger species that I encountered. I hope they were just at rest somewhere around and have not totally left Black Forest.  After 50 minutes I ascend with 80 bars of air.

anemone crab

Glinting my eyes with the scorching heat, I was wishing to once again walk on the white sands on the island but the boat moored far for the interval.  At past 12 nooon, we had our next descent at Turtle Point.  I was hoping I would find turtles but for the whole 59 minutes of my bottom time, there was none!  I stayed behind again from other divers together with my dive guide, searching for macros as there was no pelagics around.  There were at least four nudi species I spotted, scorpionfish, lionfish and other tropical fishes.   There was a moray eel gawking at me but my cam failed.  It was filled with soft and hard corals, crinoid, sponges and anemones. Normally, there were only two dives in the island, so we cruised back to Alona Beach after we surfaced past 1pm.  This made me to my 100th dive!

moray eel gawking at me!

Again, making most of my long travel,  my time and expenses, I requested for third dive even just nearby, I was lone – other divers have called it a day taking their late  leisure lunch sat nearby resto. Quarter before four o’clock, we sped our way to Kalipayan for my last descent.  Together with my dive guide, I immersed myself with the cold afternoon waters and went deep down, unto a colourful reef punctuated by invertebrates as I passed by. A moray eel lurking on soft coral, went out gawking at me perhaps wondering what kind of fish I am! Then we moved to a sandy ground decorated with green sea grasses and those big thorny brownish starfish.  There were patches of hard corals as we went along, with tropical fishes hovering around.  We ascend after 39 minutes – it was short but has to end sooner for my flight the next day.  When we got back to the beach, the place was grueling preparing for the night’s bustle.  Dinner tables of the restos were out on the white beach ready for diners.  The area started to become more alive as the sun comes down, tourists started to flocked around the beach.

blue, blue world - my world!

Milestone Dives

Going back  to Bohol again wasn’t my priority, but my dive buddy requested for it so I arranged things for me to come. He didn’t make it though, but there’s no reason for me to cancel mine.  It turned out to have my 100th dive right on the very spot where my passion for life in the depths all started.  I wish there will be another hundred dives to come, if not two, three, four or more.

And perhaps, I will be back again in Balicasag Island – may be not sooner but for sure I will not wait for a hundred dive before I would set foot again to see more of  its depths!

Travel Notes

My route for this trip:

Cagayan de Oro to Tagbilaran  – by boat (Trans Asia Lines), 9 hours
Tagbilaran Pier to Panglao bus terminal – Tricycle
Tagbilaran to Panglao Sawang – Mini bus, 45 minutes
Sawang to Alona Beach – Tricycle, 10-15 minutes

Return trip:

Tagbilaran to Cebu – Ocean Jet, 2 hours
Cebu to Cagayan de Oro – plane, 1 hour & 15 minutes

Back to My Little Paradise

jellies started floating up!

One of those few things that I never grow tired of doing during summer is to be in Bucas Grande group, this secluded place is like home to me.  The peaceful environment with its natural attractions has captured my heart and nagged me to savor its beauty even just once in a year.

A couple of weeks ago, I went to my paradise unexpectedly, it was unplanned although I knew I must go.  So I seized the opportunity when my trip up north was postponed due to unfavorable weather. The adage was true that while the city is in typhoon, it doesn’t mean that in the distant islands it’s pouring rain, the sun was perfectly shining like summer!

My sister dropped everything back home when I invited her, although at short notice she simply gave in to my whim.  Leaving Butuan almost 2pm, we arrived almost 4pm in Bad-as junction and was grateful that van for Port Hayanggabon was stationed leaving any minute.  The afternoon sun gives a warm glow as we drove along the coastal towns of Placer, Bacuag, Gigaquit and Claver. We arrived at the port almost sundown, our boat waiting.  Rushing to buy for needs, we left almost getting dark. The stars started to appear in the skies and some fireflies welcomed as we cruised for our night’s lodge. The boatman with trained eyes managed our boat single handedly until we reached at Tiktikan Lake almost 7pm.  Somehow I still have gotten energy to climb up to the reception area even in dark with only a small torch to illumine our way.

magkakaub cave entrance

Just as it is, everything so natural and unspoiled.  There’s no electricity, but they got used to it already, the small kerosene lamp served as our light.  The cicadas singing in the darkness, cutting the stillness of the night.  We woke up the following morning watching the placid lake before us and the sunrise breaking behind the limestone cliffs.

Sohoton in a Day

We rushed to the information center for a courtesy hi with DH, somehow I’m grateful with all the necessary arrangements he made for my trip, even how short the notice was.  So we started early taking advantage of the low tide, I wanted to revisit the hidden charms of my paradise.  I always feel that familiar rush of blood flow when entering the cove, so mysterious it felt like I’m transported into another world. We went around and got first into Hagukan Cave, swam inside, stayed for awhile and mingle with other guests.  We  then proceed to the challenging Magkakaub Cave,  walk inside, view the formations and the fruit bats up, then went rock climbing for the exit. Well, we got at the ramp ready for the plunge but alas I still have to gather much courage for the jump 😛  It’s my fourth time and yet my spirit needed some urging.  It felt so free having the big leap, the big splash and the water rush felt so good!  🙂 Navigating around the cove watching limestone cliffs covered with greens, clear waters and blue skies is like paradise to me.

the landmark for exit!

My most favorite spot here is the Jellyfish Lagoon (Tojoman Lake), I was ecstatic when DH told me it’s peak season of the jellies!  When we entered the lagoon, all others were coming out so it was comforting it won’t be too crowded.  And there I watched in awe, of my brown friends starting to float up in view. I swam around getting up close with them.  My sister can’t believe it’s stingless. All of them in varied sizes, pulsating like talking to me, and swimming right there all around me. I stayed in the waters long to my heart’s content, swimming with my jelly friends.  I still have wanted to linger more but my companions seemed tired already, so I finally went up the boat feeling sorry I have to leave.

boats ready...

After our late lunch and brief rest back at Tiktikan Lake, we cruised to La Fortuna to explore another inland lake there and hoping to get some fresh buko. We walked on a trail to the lake and have some swim there.  When we got back, we swam on the white beach while waiting for our boat.  I missed Spirit, it should have been fun playing with him in the waters.  We cruised to another spot to buy some buko, it was a white beach too and while waiting I swam again with the waves pushing me ashore.  😛  We got back to the info center, catching up DH with some visitors.  We savor the fresh buko lamaw while discussing latest updates in the park and the PO.  We hastily finished up to see the spot where the new cottage owned by SAVE Sohoton was built.  Actually, it’s a good improvement – a new economic activity of the PO.  It sat in a cove with turquoise waters and white sands, a simple cottage of indigenous materials still with works on-going.  It promises a wonderful spot for swimming, snorkeling or just lounging on the small patch of white beach.  We rushed back at the info center and finally sailed to the guest house for night’s refuge, when it began to get  dark.

Promise to be Back

The next morning, we woke up watching the placid waters from our window.  How serene and beautiful, so peaceful and divine.  I knew I never grow tired of coming to this place. I was too glad that it has maintained its unspoiled beauty, its people have well-preserved its environment. I was glad I didn’t see any litters, except few when we got to the lake which our guide defended coming from open waters brought by the tide.  Sohoton folks have done great job in preserving this paradise.

Our boat left riding on the morning waves – my favorite haven getting obscure as we got farther.  Still I promise myself to be back again, hoping its beauty will be same as I knew her.  It’s about its serenity, the vast sea, limestone cliffs, crystal waters, elusive marine life, orange skies, starry nights, singing cicadas, placid lakes and my jelly friends.   My place, my refuge, my paradise…

A Cruise for a Lifetime

M/Y Hans Christian Andersen

In less than seventy-two hours, I’ll be on a cruise to a dream paradise – aboard on a beautiful yacht surrounded with blue waters.  With three priests – which includes Father President of FSUU (my alma mater), a bishop and a vicar – and a physician, it felt like I’m on pilgrimage to the holy land.  They are all from Butuan, yes all four of them from my home town. So it felt like I’m home.  More than that, I’m with my good friend and favorite dive buddy Angel to fulfill our dream to relish the splendor of the unequaled Tubbataha underwater paradise.

It would be my first time for a luxury cruise and without doubt I would love everything on this trip, I’ll be off again with one of my greatest love – diving!  And as I told Angel, I don’t want to go without him as we dreamed this together like more than two years back.  There’s no better than a friend who’ s too keen and passionate sharing a fervent wish and dream…

I’m driving myself for much work for the past days to compensate for the time I would be away, and I’m whining – why is it that there is much to do when I want to go away? On second thought I need it to get away from feeling spoiled from such opulence.  Now, as I pour my thoughts here I pause for awhile with twinkling eyes…

Our one big dream to a paradise called Tubbataha, one grand trip and our cruise for a lifetime!

Mad about Moalboal!

There is something relaxing in the depths…

Coming back to this rural town in western Cebu has been planned before I could even return home during a dive trip back in July 2009. It felt like there’s something more to discover in this place, and definitely with only one descent in Pescador Island, the mermaid in me didn’t get enough of its splendor in its depths!  Angel and I promised ourselves to be back…

Our diver’s itch is pestering again for the sardine’s run, such that Angel and I squeezed our weekend for this much awaited return.  I was hoping again to have three dives to make most of the trip, it was fortunate we took the van for Moalboal so we got to the diveshop much earlier as expected.  DM Geom of Cebu Dive Center have set up for us one shore dive in mid-morning  and two boat dives in the afternoon. As there were no other divers it was some kind of exclusive dive for us!

Gaudy Marine Life

We went for a shore dive on our first descent at the House Reef – DM Geom was firm that I should carry my gears on my back which I don’t really like.   If Mario was there, he wont allow it!  I struggled donning my fins with the tank on my back, and need to hold on with Angel for support.  DM Geom insisted that I’m not fit to dive if I can’t do it, and he is right!

We wade on a sandy slope and went deeper on a wall, DM Geom is so keen on macros so we search on anemones, sea fans and soft corals for critters – minute shrimps, nudis, coral crabs and more.  There were pipefish in abundance scattered all over – big and small ones. Of course the fish life is as well abundant – colorful anthias, sergeants, damsels, wrasses, sweetlips, angels, lionfish, hawkfish, cardinals and banners.  We followed a juvenile barramundi who was camera shy, we found two turtles in different locations who both have remoras on their backs! We were amused with the lavender fat nudis on a colorful coral.  There were gorgonians, soft corals, crinoids – all blended in the reefs.  A good find we had was the thor shrimp near the anemones.

We went back and before we had our safety stop, we found a turtle resting on a reef with remoras on its back.  After 53 minutes with 21.6m as our deepest, we ascend with still 89 bars of air.  Our lunch break at the Little Corner served as our surface interval.

Spotted lavender nudibranch

Our second descent was the highlight of the day, this is our main reason for coming back – explore once more Pescador Island!  We are mad about the mystical sardines run – the unequalled wonderful attraction of the island.  After cruising for about fifteen minutes, we descend at the southern tip with a wall, a deep one but we need to maintain at 20m depth.  We were greeted with variety of tropical fishes – variety of anthias, variety of anemone fish, damsels, snappers, lionfish and angel fish.  We went north ward and we sighted squat lobster and nudis – one just need sharp eyes and you’ll always have colorful macros.  Scorpion fish, trumpet and pipefish – somewhere we sighted also a herd of trevally.  All these with a backdrop of soft and hard corals, crinoids, sponges merge together a colorful paradise.

Colorful depths…

DM Geom summoned us pointing upward – and there, darkened our view above us – million of sardines!  We swam away from the wall towards the run – watching in awe, I went up and down to get near giving me a bad profile. So grand, all them banded together, then two jacks appeared disturbing their line of path. We got back to the wall after the display and went shallower on a slope of reefs for our safety stop.  We found frogfish on tube coral, boxfish and more of the sardines again.  They have really gotten greater in number – they look so magical on the colorful reefs against the sunlight!    We ascend with 50 minutes bottom time, still 70 bars of my air.  At the surface, the waters gone rough already – the sea is enraged according to DM Geom!  He cancelled our last dive in the island and escaped from the raging waters, then speed near the mainland for shelter.

Ornate ghost pipefish!

Indeed when we got to Talisay spot, the were no signs of choppy surface – it was so calm, we stayed there for our interval.  We had our final descent at 4:05pm on a sandy slope with variety of corals again, gorgonians, hydroids and crinoids – there were puffers, colourful clown fish and anthias again.  Then DM Geom summoned us for the ornate ghost pipefish trying to camouflage near soft coral polyps – rare find! We found a turtle again with the remora fish on him, handful of pipefish, lionfish, scorpion fish and group of puffers.  The sight of the healthy corals with tropical fishes on it was so calming and relaxing.  We ascend after 48 minutes with 80 bars of air and 18.3 meters as our deepest.

Fully Laden Day

Catching an early fight for Mactan, two hour drive to Moaboal, three great dives in its waters are more than enough for a Saturday.  It was full but so comforting – to unwind a full week at work. It still amaze me that in a real sense, it’s an exhaustive bustle yet at the end of the day, the mermaid in me felt so contented and pleased, unmindful of being tired.  Again, it can never be put in words.

Once more, we are still planning to be back in Moalboal to dive not only once ,but more in Pescador.  Angel and I will be back again for sure.  Now, that I guess is pure madness!