Discovering Apo Reefs!

Petting the hawksbill was truly unexpected! 🙂

In contrast to our dive trip last month where we wallowed in luxury, this time we went to camping.  Rugged, spartan and remote – well, gonig to a place of beauty is never without challenge!  As early as May last year, Angel and I got our San Jose tickets.  I was in the mountains of Bukidnon for rural dev work, still mourning for my mum’s demise when he encouraged me to avail of the seat sales, we wanted Coron but ended up with San Jose after it was being sold out!  It wasn’t in my list to visit Apo as I know the usual access to the reefs is through liveaboard – which is too pricey!  The site though is too interesting to ignore.

Unmindful of sudden changes in itinerary and after nine months have lapsed, Angel made last minute arrangements for the dives as we are exploring the reefs through the Local Tourism Office of LGU Sablayan.  It would be a long trip for me and I was resolute that we must have not less than three descents – I need more value for my money spent.  So, Angel and I decided to divert for land trip to Sablayan instead of our flight to San Jose.

All in a Rush

Left Manila almost 10pm for Batangas pier with Angel and Alfred (another diver joiner)  for about two hours, from then on we took the ferry for Abra de Ilog for another more than two hours.  It was all dark and didn’t get a glimpse of the view as we went with the crossings – except for the last quarter moon rising in dawn.  Then we sped off to Sablayan in an aircon bus and arrived at the Local Tourism Office at daybreak about 6am.  We just need to rush things as we need to maximize time to make three dives in all.

A pose for my dive buddy...

So after arranging our gear and equipment needs and settled our bills with the tourism officer, Angel and I rushed again (with Alfred) to the local market to buy our food and other needs in the island, we had to do it quick so we could leave for the island  not later than 8am – we had a long list of stuff to buy!  We did it though in an hour crossing the aisles of the market, we were impressed that plastic bags were not provided for your stuff – the LGU is adopting the policy of MOB.  A responsible move of the local community for the good of the environment.

Finally, we hit the shores for our paradise island with big smiles on our faces.  The bright sunny horizons just perfect for our waters escapade!  Ah, the smell of the sea waters is so refreshing – I belong to the waters, indeed.  🙂  Somewhere in the mid of our cruise, there was some stirrings in the waters ahead of us and came jump a giant trevally! Wonderful sight to behold – I took it as a good sign of welcome for us to the reefs.  Approaching the island we passed through the submerged reefs which made the waters turquoise, beyond we watched the glorious panorama of white sand beach all around penned in by verdant mangroves and the lone slender lighthouse.  After more than two hours on the waters, we finally docked on the white sands near the front of the Ranger Station.

Dive, Great Dives

Days before this trip, my mind has been wandering about Angel’s sharks encounter while snorkeling – I was awed with the idea of seeing sharks on shallow waters!  I love macros – critters are interesting but in the end didn’t we all become divers to see the big stuff?  And let’s be honest, nothing gets the blood flowing like the larger marine species!

It felt like ages while waiting for the refill of our tanks, I’m dying to go unto the depths – my second home. And we wanted not to waste our precious time, we need the three dives – by hook or by crook! 😛   Our first descent was south of the island, and our first sighting as we observe the wall  was a big lobster perched on a crevice, its antlers waving with the current.  Then another lobster a little farther, the wall was decorated with sea fans and gorgonians in varied colors and sizes.  The site was punctuated with colorful tiny nudis as we inspected the reefs.  The highlight of it was the silver tip shark below us – about three feet!  We had a good vantage watching him as it swam coyly perhaps searching for a prey.  We wanted to get near, went down and up giving me a bad profile.  There were tropical species – wrasse, fusiliers, damsels, anthias, mandarins, anemone, and lot more.  Its biodiversity is commendable.  We spent our safety stop on a sandy area with lot of colorful corals.

This is diving, this is life!

Our late lunch at past 2pm serves as our surface interval while having the boat used for snorkeling by our travel friends.  It was already 3:3opm when we had our second descent at the north side of the island. WE descend on a slope with tropical fishes, soft & hard corals, basket sponges, anemones and few crinoids.  We spotted a turtle which we tried to follow, but sadly he was disturbed with our persistence to get near him. He tried to swim past away and hid on the crevice on the reefs.  We sighted too groupers, damsels, wrasses, butterfly fish, anthias, surgeons and snappers. I think I sighted also bluefin jacks or trevally.  We ascend after 46 mins, my air still at 1200psi.

During our surface interval, we make use of our time preparing and setting up to cook for dinner.  The late afternoon winds getting harsher almost blowing our stuff including the pitched tents.  The calm pinkish skies on the horizons beckoning the setting sun, at 5:48pm it was almost dark when we had our last and third dive at the reefs.  It was almost a night dive 🙂 , making sure we wont caught up in the dark we brought our torches.  We went out to explore southwest of the island.

Unto the blue depths...

A soon as we got to the waters, DM Albert urged us to descend immediately as there were school of napoleon wrasse nearby below us.  It was another great display of marine life, right there swimming coyly before us! There were fusiliers, snappers and groupers too.  Then there was the big hawksbill, a pleasant surprise for us!  We got the chance to get up close, playing with him. This time we move slowly going with him, reached out and unexpectedly able to pet him – touching him right there in his habitat!  We sighted again the school of Napoleon wrasse twice more in different direction.  We explored more, there were sea cucumbers which I tried to touch.  There were crinoids, I got stuck with a green feather star as I stayed close to the bed getting around.  Then as we are about to end the dive, we were treated with another display of pelagics – a school of humphead wrasse swimming coyly before us.  Indeed, it was already dark when we ascend at 6:34pm with my air still at 1500psi.

We had a sumptuous dinner later, and perhaps felt very much contented of the three great dives I went to a peaceful sleep till morning…

Paradise Continued

From deep under we went high up the island through the lighthouse the next morning, which I discovered funded by a loan from OECD.  It has a viewing deck that offers 360 degrees view of the island, unfortunately there was strong winds when we got there.  There’s mangrove forest amidst the stone cliffs which looks like miniature of limestone cliffs in Coron. It is important to the island’s ecosystem as it serves as spawning ground and nursery for marine species.  The blue waters beyond, the white cottony wisp of clouds in morning skies, green mangroves  –  all so natural and beautiful!

The strong winds didn’t encourage us to stay long above the tower, so Angel and I  get back ahead from our friends for our breakfast preparation.

Rich marine life!

We sailed off for our return trip to the mainland after our breakfast, not wanting to leave without getting into some action on our departure.  We snorkeled somewhere in a spot where corals are dead, but it didn’t disappoint us.   We were greeted by school of blue fusiliers shining brightly against the morning sunlight.  Then a turtle appeared almost  with same color of the corals, crawling on the bed perhaps looking for food.  Then a white tip shark appeared wiggling directly beneath us, we watched in awe but can’t get nearer. 😛   Then the sea turtle appeared again,  the blue fusiliers still near us.  It was beautiful, it was such pure bliss.  For the nth time I felt humbled with the exquisiteness of creation!

We cruised further passing the reefs in turquoise waters with the sunny skies above us, until we lost them and finally in the deep blue waters.  All waters again, punctuated by few fishing boats in the distance…

Not an End

I’m sure there will be another chance to be back in Apo Reefs, there are still numerous dive spots to be explored including the ship wreck I read about.  That’s a reason enough to plan for a return.  The shark ridge which I know have lot to offer is waiting to be visited.  There are few things that are lovelier the second time around, I knew Apo Reefs is one of them,  I believe… 🙂

NB.  Photos courtesy of Mr.  Alfred Hizon

 

Missing the Monsters!

Glorious Kayangan Cove!

Coron is now one of my favorite destination, discovering it in March 2008 without second thought I went back three months later to know more of the secrets of the Calamianes.  I visited it again last year with my favorite dive buddy- yes, you guess it right – to explore more of its secrets in the depths! Angel and I loved every bit of it, he swore it was his best dive experience so far and in fact it was our deepest at 114 feet!.  And I could not deny that exploring Akitsushima and Taeie Maru was exhilarating – going down and penetrating the mysterious wrecks was so challenging and enthralling!

Exploring more of the monsters was so irresistible that we planned for another Coron trip this year, I booked my tickets as early as April! Indeed, we eagerly wait for October while enjoying other dive trips.  For us, Coron waters is something special, with its limestone cliffs, crystal waters and rich marine life we wanted to experience its beauty over and over again.

I thought everything was in place, except for my leave from work but alas by end of August, my community have scheduled on the date when I will be in Coron, a spiritual retreat for us and required everyone  to come!  Remembering my trip, I was bit shaken,  I wanted to delay my response.  In my mind, I tried to justify I had my tickets already and it was scheduled long before.  I remembered I was sullen that day, hoping it will be postponed to other dates.  Actually my heart sank… Going back though, I reflected that the Lord has been so good to me, He had lavished me with wonderful trips and provided me all the resources.

In submission I prayed for grace and decided to cancel my trip and be there for the Lord – He asked just one day from me!  It was a breaking news, but I guess Angel felt relieved  because his friends will be coming with him and he is not comfortable diving together with me!  Anyhow, I would be missing the Coron wrecks this year and have to let go my CGY-MNL-CGY ticket and the amount attached to it, refunds or rebooking is not possible.  Always, there is a reason for everything and I am waiting it to unfold one day.  But again, I can look up and be thankful He emerged victorious over my much valued trip.

I’ll be in Coron again hopefully in March with or without my dive buddy – that’s a promise to myself…

Unraveling Camotes Depths!

Camotes islands was never in my list for this year to explore, while I have heard about it obscurely but never thought it to be a possible dive destination. On an impulse, Angel and I packed our gears for a weekend dive trip to Camotes.  It was exciting for us both, we just love off beaten paths – it is more interesting!  Discovering one new place with little known or vague facts and information is exhilarating!

Still tired from the trip and our rushed afternoon tour the day before, we drag ourselves from bed.  As usual, I woke up earlier than my buddy for the preliminaries – packing and ucam set up.  Our version of breakfast – a mug of coffee, 1 ½ piaya, I banana – to be light for the dive and to save!  🙂  We ordered Filipino breakfast takeout for our lunch from the next garden resort and pick up gears just in time when our transpo picked us up.  We arrived at Ocean Deep 15 minutes ahead of our appointment, I was hoping we could meet the owner but didn’t.  So, we assembled the gears and I was aghast that the dive master and the receptionist did the carrying of the paraphernalia to the boat!  Far cry from previous dive shops we got into. It was about 100 meters to the boat, Angel and I had no plans to carry our 3 tanks each, sorry… 😛

We cruised to our first site at Tulang Island for Lawis almost an hour – we planned for a maximum deep of 35 meters, since it‘s a wall it would be manageable.  We did roll-back entry and when we descend, I needed 2 more weights!  We

got into some slope and the wall – what strikes me most is that there was lot of sea fans scattered around of different colors and sizes like it’s a garden.  There were anthias, scorpionfish, camouflaging clams, hard and soft corals,

fusiliers, barrel sponge, damsels, colorful nudi, anemones, clown fish and crown of thorns!  We did see lot of this sea stars and I was apalled, I was wondering if there were initiatives by the locals to protect the marine environment from this menace.  We ascend after 46 minutes having our deepest at 33 metres.

We took refuge at the white beach of Tulang Island for our surface interval, a peaceful stretch of white sand.  The divemaster took a break and left us on our own so we took a refreshing dip at the cool crystal waters, searching for shells and stones for my souvenir. 🙂   An hour later we moved on to our next descent at The Wall which we stayed for

clownfish on an anemone

56 minutes at maximum depth of 26.7 meters. Again, it was a wall with some sandy slope decorated with a variety

healthy corals

and large expanse of corals, sponges, crinoids and variety of colorful fish juveniles.  We ascend and exited at another spot at site no. 4.

Our late lunch served as our surface interval for our last dive,  as we cruised back near the Mangodlong Rock Resort.  Without consulting my dive computer we descend for our last dive at Lucbon Shoal, in awhile it kept blinking – Error!  Our surface interval wasn’t enough L  We got down to a wide coral gardens where we had an average of 20 meters as our deepest.  Variety of hard corals – there was a wide table top coral, staghorns and other kinds of

crown of sea thorns 😦

branching species in different shades and colors.  But sadly, the crown of thorns had attacked this area and it was so frustrating to watch the corals turning grey and brown in death.  What a disaster!  In my assessment, about ¼ of the area has been devoured by the sea stars.  I found this so alarming, and I was wondering if the local government or authorities have done something to save the environs.  Even the dive operators and resorts around the islands have the responsibility to protect the marine resources, after all they’re making business from it!  We ascend after an hour as Angel was getting low on air.

We cruised back to the beach area of the resort and was grateful we got back earlier as expected.  Hey, I went ahead not wanting to see who’s gonna carry the tanks back to the diveshop 😛  After settling bills, packing gears and a brief wait of our transpo, we were back at our lodgings before it gets dark.  It was such a full day but surviving the almost unknown sites with my favorite dive buddy was pleasing enough, no complaints except for the menacing crown of thorns slowly destroying the underwater paradise in Camotes waters.

The underwater scenes in Camotes didn’t disappoint us, now and then Angel and I will continue to discover more of our country’s enchanting paradise deep down.  The exquisiteness of the marine world and seeing more places in Philippines will always be our inspiration… 🙂

Return to Mantangale!

DSCF4062
Colorful paradise! 🙂

One day, as I promised myself to revisit Mantangale – a place dear to me as it’s where I subjected myself to the rigors of diving. Not so long ago, I had my open water course at Mantangale waters so coming back to the place is some kind of paying  homage.  Since Angel was coming to CdeO over the weekend for some adventure trip with friends, we included a 3-dive sked for Camiguin if possible. Since DiveSpecial have nix, I booked with MADRI thankful that Sir Dong Uy was very encouraging for Camiguin. I have promised Ma’am Nana to blow bubbles again with them one of these days.

Angel was just in the nick of time, I asked the driver of the 7am King Long bus for a moment as Angel was just a few steps away.  We’re grateful we arrived at the resort earlier than expected, and after some welcome pleasantries we were ushered down to the diveshop where Sir Dong was waiting for us. He was thankful too that we’re early, he was seeing white caps at the front waters and was concerned it might be too choppy for the dives! While we’re having our breakfast, we discuss and agree for the sites then he gave us a quick briefing for our first descent at the house reef. Actually, it felt good to be back – sitting comfortably in peace as you watch the horizons, Camiguin in her stark splendor in view – is pure divine!  🙂

Banaug Shoal is a deep dive so it must be our first descent, I looked forward to once again enjoy the rich marine biodiversity of the site, it was pure bliss watching in awe the active fish life at the spot. From the speedboat we transferred to Sea Reyna – the beautiful, spacious, comfortable dive boat of the resort. And indeed, as soon as we reached the shoal the resident fishes decorated the environs, we went around the shoal – puffers, lionfish, snappers, anthias, damsels, angelfish, butterfly, nudis, and moray!  I was amused with big moray, he came out from his sanctuary when Sir Dong tapped his gauge on the rock. The pymy seahorse was all pink clinging to a rose seafan! We have circled the shoal at 32.2 meters as deepest.  We slowly ascend holding the bouy line, as I watched the moray eel and a lionfish swimming coyly displaying its intricate fins.  It was splendid!

We cruised for an hour to Mantigue Island which served also as our surface interval, watching in distance the white sand beach surrounding the island.  I was wondering if we could get the chance to walk around at the beach…. For our second dive, Sir Dong gave us a surprise! We will be diving in EAN (30%) with no cost! He said it will be credited if we took EAN certification course. Angel and I  was excited to try nitrox.  Our next descent was at the Marine Sanctuary – again it was a colorful display of a rich marine biodiversity – hard and soft corals, crinoids, sea fans, sea cucumbers, anemones. Colorful anthias are all over, wrasses, fusiliers, damsels, jackfish in schools, groupers, snappers, lionfish, scorpionfish, clownfish, puffer, pipefish and more. It was truly alive with fish life! I wasn’t expecting such display of marine life – it was another paradise underwater.  Angel held my hand and looked his eyes as we float weightlessly over the colorful reef.  The little mermaid in me was again rejoicing!  🙂  We ascend after 63 minutes with 29.2 meters as deepest.

DSCF4051
Blowing bubbles at Mantigue Island marine sanctuary in nitrox!

Our lunch break served as our surface interval for our last dive, we enjoyed our fish n chips wrapped in banana leaves still warm.  Sir Dong suggested we again go down at the sanctuary but on the opposite direction. We geared for the last descent but alas, the assistant mistakenly failed to bring another set of EAN so we used again ordinary compressed air. 😛 Although it was the same site but definitely it didn’t disappoint us, there was another display  of rich marine life.  There was scorpionfish, snappers, groupers and jacks – a long parade of jacks in large school. There were some nudis, lionfish, cowrie and wide spread of soft and hard corals.  We lingered just going around the slope searching for macros among the corals.  We finally surfaced after an hour with 14.9 meters as our deepest.  All were great dives!

As we cruised back to the resort, we took some nap to regain enough energy to finish off a full day.  After washing up and packing our gears we went up and chose to have an early dinner, having our left over fish n chips  from lunch plus a banana split ice cream – yummy! 🙂  We wanted to linger more in luxury and comforts of the resort, there were no other guests that day so we had the place all to ourselves.

So near yet so far!  Finally I explored part of Camiguin depths with my favorite dive buddy – indeed there is always a right time for everything.  After a brief wait at the bus stop, we boarded a King Long bus back to Cdeo. It was a long day but promising ourselves to be back again for another wonderful dive in Balingoan and Camiguin surrounding waters.

—————————-
Photo courtesy of Sir Dong Uy of MADRI

Finally, Apo Island!

Apo Island

Year ago, I went to Dumaguete for a planned dive at Apo Island but was bit perturbed when I was diverted to another sites in Dauin & Bacong – all in Negros Oriental.  I remembered calling up  Angel telling I dove in other sites though equally stunning but missed the famous Apo Island.  I promised myself to be back in Dumaguete for one reason: to dive at Apo Island hopefully soon with Angel!

After being disturbed with work schedules and activities I finally made it to leave CdO last flight on a Thursday night after a long day at work.  It was raining and flying to Cebu at night was something new to me, I usually leave early mornings. Arrived at my lodgings late already, but need to wake up early next morning for my early flight. I was glad I didn’t bump with anybody I knew at the airports!  🙂

Left early for my next flight the next morning, and we touched down Sibulan Airport as scheduled. Fortunately, I was met by our hostel’s transportation and so arrived in perfect shape at our lodgings. I still have enough time to freshen up as I wait for Angel and diveshop pick-up at 8:30am.  Promptly, the front desk called up informing that our dive transportation is waiting, went down informing them that Angel is due in few minutes from his Manila flight.

Finally, we set off for Malatapay station for the cruise to the island.  We passed along Valencia, Dauin, Bacong and finally Zamboanguita – I remembered my dives last year.   It took us about twenty minutes to cruise for our first descent at Coconut Point.   It’s only us who were booked at Scuba Ventures for the island, I learned later that other divers were scheduled at Dauin. It was a sunny morning, so the visibility was good.  The scene was more of pelagics – unicorns, trevally, jacks, groupers, wrasses & parrots. There were sweet lips, fusiliers, damsels, butterfly,

school of jacks

snappers. I think I caught sight of a ghost pipefish and trumpets!  We spotted too a pair of lizardfish, and a field of healthy colorful soft and hard corals – anemones, staghorns, lettuce and sea fans. I wanted to linger and absorb

sea turtle!

the vastness of the glorious display of marine life but we were drifting, I was in oblivion! It’s unspeakable, another evidence of a great work of the Great Creator!  We had a dose of jacks, in schools! We had the opportunity also for a close encounter with a turtle, I watch in awe as it swam gracefully.  We ascend after 53 minutes with 22.7 meters as our deepest.

Our boat anchored near the island station and resort, just right at island’s landmark, those big black granite boulders that looks like on top of each other and there’s one almost to fall off. It was a great scene – white sands, crystal waters, blue sunny skies!  We had our lunch break there, Angel and I shared our meal we bought from a

torquise waters, blue skies, white sands and granite boulders

carenderia in Dumaguete, we catch up with our stories but mostly mine, how I managed to squeeze skeds and how I fret few days back about an out of town meeting!  And when my leave was approved and the meeting was finally held in CdeO, I tried not to spill again any hint of excitement! 😛  We took off then from the boat and got a stroll around near the resort and granite boulders.

Our next descent was at Mamsa Point, again it was a drift dive.  I told our guide Sam, that we must not go beyond 23 meters.  True to its name there was lot of jacks, in schools again!  I wanted to go near but they swam away. We spotted stripe fish, a flounder, juvenile anthias, anemone fish, lizardfish, fusiliers, snappers and more.  There were soft and hard corals too, cabbage, staghorns, and table corals.  But surprisingly, I didn’t see any nudis, sea fans or gorgonians and other macros.  I was hoping to find a frogfish but wasn’t lucky.  We ascend after 54 minutes with 24.5 meters as our deepest, we went beyond our plan as we were chasing a huge school of jacks!  Somewhere in the mid of the dive I felt giddy – sure, it wasn’t narc, I was thinking clearly! 😛 I tried to control and slowed my moves so I could finish the second dive.

I tried to take a nap during the surface interval to relax a bit from my giddiness so I could make it for the last dive, I wanted to complete the plan because it would appear we were paying more for the two dives only.  So when

diving is always a joy...

Angel asked if we will do the third descent I nod solemnly (silently praying I’ll make it!) and declared we should to make most of our time.  Our last descent was at Kan-uran Point, I told our guide we must stay shallower and not long.  We drift around the reefs covered with a variety of colorful corals.  We spotted and followed a banded sea snake slithering around!  🙂  There were occasional damsels, juveniles scattering around, clown fish and anemone fish.  We ascend after 40 minutes at 15.6 meters as our deepest, it was a success I made it to finish our last dive but still I was feeling lightheaded when I got to the boat.  But it was such a marvelous experience to dive in one of most preserved marine and coastal resources in the country.

Apo Island – checked!  After a year of waiting I made it and able to share another great underwater experience with my friend and dive buddy Angel.  We had our first drift dives with no dive master but just a guide, we’re learning every descent we had.  But I guess I need to learn more on the dive computer, somewhere while underwater it kept blinking and I don’t know why!  😛

We cruised back to Malatapay and drove back to downtown Dumaguete with smiles. Finally, I met Ms. Percy when we got to Scuba Ventures. I learned that DUCOMI Pier is not available anymore for diving, it has been closed for repairs. I was aghast and felt sorry for the amazing underwater scenery at the pier, I realized it was a blessing in disguise that I dove last time there instead in Apo Island.  I remembered how I feasted in the rich biodiversity down there, now it has gone – what a misfortune!  After settling our bills, we hastily went up to freshen up and still discussing the day’s dive sightings.  More than that, we also chattered where to dine as our tradition every after dives.

After an hour later, we walked down the boulevard to search for a resto after we got to Sans Rival already closed…..