"Now more than ever do I realize that I will never be content of a sedentary life on the surface, I will always be haunted by thoughts of being drenched elsewhere"….
In less than seventy-two hours, I’ll be on a cruise to a dream paradise – aboard on a beautiful yacht surrounded with blue waters. With three priests – which includes Father President of FSUU (my alma mater), a bishop and a vicar – and a physician, it felt like I’m on pilgrimage to the holy land. They are all from Butuan, yes all four of them from my home town. So it felt like I’m home. More than that, I’m with my good friend and favorite dive buddy Angel to fulfill our dream to relish the splendor of the unequaled Tubbataha underwater paradise.
It would be my first time for a luxury cruise and without doubt I would love everything on this trip, I’ll be off again with one of my greatest love – diving! And as I told Angel, I don’t want to go without him as we dreamed this together like more than two years back. There’s no better than a friend who’ s too keen and passionate sharing a fervent wish and dream…
I’m driving myself for much work for the past days to compensate for the time I would be away, and I’m whining – why is it that there is much to do when I want to go away? On second thought I need it to get away from feeling spoiled from such opulence. Now, as I pour my thoughts here I pause for awhile with twinkling eyes…
Our one big dream to a paradise called Tubbataha, one grand trip and our cruise for a lifetime!
Coming back to this rural town in western Cebu has been planned before I could even return home during a dive trip back in July 2009. It felt like there’s something more to discover in this place, and definitely with only one descent in Pescador Island, the mermaid in me didn’t get enough of its splendor in its depths! Angel and I promised ourselves to be back…
Our diver’s itch is pestering again for the sardine’s run, such that Angel and I squeezed our weekend for this much awaited return. I was hoping again to have three dives to make most of the trip, it was fortunate we took the van for Moalboal so we got to the diveshop much earlier as expected. DM Geom of Cebu Dive Center have set up for us one shore dive in mid-morning and two boat dives in the afternoon. As there were no other divers it was some kind of exclusive dive for us!
Gaudy Marine Life
We went for a shore dive on our first descent at the House Reef – DM Geom was firm that I should carry my gears on my back which I don’t really like. If Mario was there, he wont allow it! I struggled donning my fins with the tank on my back, and need to hold on with Angel for support. DM Geom insisted that I’m not fit to dive if I can’t do it, and he is right!
We wade on a sandy slope and went deeper on a wall, DM Geom is so keen on macros so we search on anemones, sea fans and soft corals for critters – minute shrimps, nudis, coral crabs and more. There were pipefish in abundance scattered all over – big and small ones. Of course the fish life is as well abundant – colorful anthias, sergeants, damsels, wrasses, sweetlips, angels, lionfish, hawkfish, cardinals and banners. We followed a juvenile barramundi who was camera shy, we found two turtles in different locations who both have remoras on their backs! We were amused with the lavender fat nudis on a colorful coral. There were gorgonians, soft corals, crinoids – all blended in the reefs. A good find we had was the thor shrimp near the anemones.
We went back and before we had our safety stop, we found a turtle resting on a reef with remoras on its back. After 53 minutes with 21.6m as our deepest, we ascend with still 89 bars of air. Our lunch break at the Little Corner served as our surface interval.
Spotted lavender nudibranch
Our second descent was the highlight of the day, this is our main reason for coming back – explore once more Pescador Island! We are mad about the mystical sardines run – the unequalled wonderful attraction of the island. After cruising for about fifteen minutes, we descend at the southern tip with a wall, a deep one but we need to maintain at 20m depth. We were greeted with variety of tropical fishes – variety of anthias, variety of anemone fish, damsels, snappers, lionfish and angel fish. We went north ward and we sighted squat lobster and nudis – one just need sharp eyes and you’ll always have colorful macros. Scorpion fish, trumpet and pipefish – somewhere we sighted also a herd of trevally. All these with a backdrop of soft and hard corals, crinoids, sponges merge together a colorful paradise.
Colorful depths…
DM Geom summoned us pointing upward – and there, darkened our view above us – million of sardines! We swam away from the wall towards the run – watching in awe, I went up and down to get near giving me a bad profile. So grand, all them banded together, then two jacks appeared disturbing their line of path. We got back to the wall after the display and went shallower on a slope of reefs for our safety stop. We found frogfish on tube coral, boxfish and more of the sardines again. They have really gotten greater in number – they look so magical on the colorful reefs against the sunlight! We ascend with 50 minutes bottom time, still 70 bars of my air. At the surface, the waters gone rough already – the sea is enraged according to DM Geom! He cancelled our last dive in the island and escaped from the raging waters, then speed near the mainland for shelter.
Ornate ghost pipefish!
Indeed when we got to Talisay spot, the were no signs of choppy surface – it was so calm, we stayed there for our interval. We had our final descent at 4:05pm on a sandy slope with variety of corals again, gorgonians, hydroids and crinoids – there were puffers, colourful clown fish and anthias again. Then DM Geom summoned us for the ornate ghost pipefish trying to camouflage near soft coral polyps – rare find! We found a turtle again with the remora fish on him, handful of pipefish, lionfish, scorpion fish and group of puffers. The sight of the healthy corals with tropical fishes on it was so calming and relaxing. We ascend after 48 minutes with 80 bars of air and 18.3 meters as our deepest.
Fully Laden Day
Catching an early fight for Mactan, two hour drive to Moaboal, three great dives in its waters are more than enough for a Saturday. It was full but so comforting – to unwind a full week at work. It still amaze me that in a real sense, it’s an exhaustive bustle yet at the end of the day, the mermaid in me felt so contented and pleased, unmindful of being tired. Again, it can never be put in words.
Once more, we are still planning to be back in Moalboal to dive not only once ,but more in Pescador. Angel and I will be back again for sure. Now, that I guess is pure madness!
Measuring 99,600 hectares in size, the Tubbattaha Reef National Marine Park (TRNMP) is made up of 2 atolls rising in the middle of the Sulu Sea. A Study by Conservation International has confirmed what Scientists long theorized, that it is the nursery for fish and coral larvae that populates the Sulu-Sulawesi Triangle – an area that not only covers the most important and productive fishing grounds of the Philippines but extends as far south as Malaysia and Indonesia.
So important is this submerged structure in the balance of the underwater eco- system that UNESCO declared it a world heritage site as far back as 1993. In 1998, Former Philippine President Fidel Ramos, a keen diver himself, created Task Force Tubbataha and a station equipped with radar and manned by zealous rangers was established and now guards the park 24/7.
Several factors are responsible for the almost virgin conditions of this underwater jewel. The convergence of currents constantly brings in a barrage of the nutrients and clean water a healthy reef and its inhabitants demand. Being the largest and almost lone structure in the middle of a vast expanse of ocean guarantees a healthy influx of pelagic visitors looking for a meal and other services an underwater community provides.
Being almost a hundred nautical miles from the nearest port, access is only through Live-aboard vessels and voyages to the park are determined by the weather. A small window-from late March to early June when calm seas and clear skies are the best and only times for divers to visit. The strong winds and rough swells the rest of the year deters both authorized and un-authorized incursions into the park and permits the reef to settle back into its natural state of regeneration. *
December 2008. The idea came to invade the mysterious depths of Sulu seas, when Angel and I planned and pledged ourselves for Dive Tubbataha 2010. They said it’s the holy grail for divers in the country and you can never be an accomplished one unless you explored its depths. But more than proving to ourselves and counting sites visited, we wanted desperately to experience and catch sight of the glorious beauty of this elusive paradise – an epitome of the exquisiteness of creation!
Our plans were put in order: dive as often our schedules and pockets can allow, earn course necessary to increase our capacity, acquire necessary gears, learn lessons from every dive we had, and more. Enjoying every bit of the journey towards this dream. The banner of “Dive Tubbataha 2010” brandishing Angel’s travel log since early 2009.
But things didn’t turn out as planned and visiting the reefs last year was cancelled and deferred indefinitely. It didn’t dampen our spirits though and I always believed there is always a time for everything, a perfect time. And trusting that the Lord always knows what’s best, that waiting is part of his answers to prayers. And so we wait…
December 2010. Two years exactly when Angel and I both pledged ourselves to this promise like a covenant. The message came unexpectedly, without any hint through a priest. I was diving one quiet Sunday for my last dive of the year, just six days before Christmas. Fr. John Young, SJ whom I just met, simply asked if I want to join them in their Tubba trip – I was caught off guarded – surprises always come in unlikely situations. That was my greatest gift last Christmas, indeed real gifts don’t come on packages and bows!
I have to relay the news to Angel, as always I had the last word for our dive trips – he simply threw it back to me to decide. I waited for about two weeks to listen if we’d really go. It is expensive and it would mean some preparations to be put in order in just four months – it meant stretching budget in the next months when we have other scheduled trips already.
Now, just barely seven weeks before our cruise on first week of May I can’t help being excited for the journey, though I don’t want to spill any hint of excitement! 😛 I’m writing this note to set a milestone, the wait wasn’t really long and I thank the Lord for granting this favor and for always working out things for me in countless times – in His own terms.
A passion burning incessantly in my inner core. Dear Tubbataha, here we come!
In contrast to our dive trip last month where we wallowed in luxury, this time we went to camping. Rugged, spartan and remote – well, gonig to a place of beauty is never without challenge! As early as May last year, Angel and I got our San Jose tickets. I was in the mountains of Bukidnon for rural dev work, still mourning for my mum’s demise when he encouraged me to avail of the seat sales, we wanted Coron but ended up with San Jose after it was being sold out! It wasn’t in my list to visit Apo as I know the usual access to the reefs is through liveaboard – which is too pricey! The site though is too interesting to ignore.
Unmindful of sudden changes in itinerary and after nine months have lapsed, Angel made last minute arrangements for the dives as we are exploring the reefs through the Local Tourism Office of LGU Sablayan. It would be a long trip for me and I was resolute that we must have not less than three descents – I need more value for my money spent. So, Angel and I decided to divert for land trip to Sablayan instead of our flight to San Jose.
All in a Rush
Left Manila almost 10pm for Batangas pier with Angel and Alfred (another diver joiner) for about two hours, from then on we took the ferry for Abra de Ilog for another more than two hours. It was all dark and didn’t get a glimpse of the view as we went with the crossings – except for the last quarter moon rising in dawn. Then we sped off to Sablayan in an aircon bus and arrived at the Local Tourism Office at daybreak about 6am. We just need to rush things as we need to maximize time to make three dives in all.
A pose for my dive buddy...
So after arranging our gear and equipment needs and settled our bills with the tourism officer, Angel and I rushed again (with Alfred) to the local market to buy our food and other needs in the island, we had to do it quick so we could leave for the island not later than 8am – we had a long list of stuff to buy! We did it though in an hour crossing the aisles of the market, we were impressed that plastic bags were not provided for your stuff – the LGU is adopting the policy of MOB. A responsible move of the local community for the good of the environment.
Finally, we hit the shores for our paradise island with big smiles on our faces. The bright sunny horizons just perfect for our waters escapade! Ah, the smell of the sea waters is so refreshing – I belong to the waters, indeed. 🙂 Somewhere in the mid of our cruise, there was some stirrings in the waters ahead of us and came jump a giant trevally! Wonderful sight to behold – I took it as a good sign of welcome for us to the reefs. Approaching the island we passed through the submerged reefs which made the waters turquoise, beyond we watched the glorious panorama of white sand beach all around penned in by verdant mangroves and the lone slender lighthouse. After more than two hours on the waters, we finally docked on the white sands near the front of the Ranger Station.
Dive, Great Dives
Days before this trip, my mind has been wandering about Angel’s sharks encounter while snorkeling – I was awed with the idea of seeing sharks on shallow waters! I love macros – critters are interesting but in the end didn’t we all become divers to see the big stuff? And let’s be honest, nothing gets the blood flowing like the larger marine species!
It felt like ages while waiting for the refill of our tanks, I’m dying to go unto the depths – my second home. And we wanted not to waste our precious time, we need the three dives – by hook or by crook! 😛 Our first descent was south of the island, and our first sighting as we observe the wall was a big lobster perched on a crevice, its antlers waving with the current. Then another lobster a little farther, the wall was decorated with sea fans and gorgonians in varied colors and sizes. The site was punctuated with colorful tiny nudis as we inspected the reefs. The highlight of it was the silver tip shark below us – about three feet! We had a good vantage watching him as it swam coyly perhaps searching for a prey. We wanted to get near, went down and up giving me a bad profile. There were tropical species – wrasse, fusiliers, damsels, anthias, mandarins, anemone, and lot more. Its biodiversity is commendable. We spent our safety stop on a sandy area with lot of colorful corals.
This is diving, this is life!
Our late lunch at past 2pm serves as our surface interval while having the boat used for snorkeling by our travel friends. It was already 3:3opm when we had our second descent at the north side of the island. WE descend on a slope with tropical fishes, soft & hard corals, basket sponges, anemones and few crinoids. We spotted a turtle which we tried to follow, but sadly he was disturbed with our persistence to get near him. He tried to swim past away and hid on the crevice on the reefs. We sighted too groupers, damsels, wrasses, butterfly fish, anthias, surgeons and snappers. I think I sighted also bluefin jacks or trevally. We ascend after 46 mins, my air still at 1200psi.
During our surface interval, we make use of our time preparing and setting up to cook for dinner. The late afternoon winds getting harsher almost blowing our stuff including the pitched tents. The calm pinkish skies on the horizons beckoning the setting sun, at 5:48pm it was almost dark when we had our last and third dive at the reefs. It was almost a night dive 🙂 , making sure we wont caught up in the dark we brought our torches. We went out to explore southwest of the island.
Unto the blue depths...
A soon as we got to the waters, DM Albert urged us to descend immediately as there were school of napoleon wrasse nearby below us. It was another great display of marine life, right there swimming coyly before us! There were fusiliers, snappers and groupers too. Then there was the big hawksbill, a pleasant surprise for us! We got the chance to get up close, playing with him. This time we move slowly going with him, reached out and unexpectedly able to pet him – touching him right there in his habitat! We sighted again the school of Napoleon wrasse twice more in different direction. We explored more, there were sea cucumbers which I tried to touch. There were crinoids, I got stuck with a green feather star as I stayed close to the bed getting around. Then as we are about to end the dive, we were treated with another display of pelagics – a school of humphead wrasse swimming coyly before us. Indeed, it was already dark when we ascend at 6:34pm with my air still at 1500psi.
We had a sumptuous dinner later, and perhaps felt very much contented of the three great dives I went to a peaceful sleep till morning…
Paradise Continued
From deep under we went high up the island through the lighthouse the next morning, which I discovered funded by a loan from OECD. It has a viewing deck that offers 360 degrees view of the island, unfortunately there was strong winds when we got there. There’s mangrove forest amidst the stone cliffs which looks like miniature of limestone cliffs in Coron. It is important to the island’s ecosystem as it serves as spawning ground and nursery for marine species. The blue waters beyond, the white cottony wisp of clouds in morning skies, green mangroves – all so natural and beautiful!
The strong winds didn’t encourage us to stay long above the tower, so Angel and I get back ahead from our friends for our breakfast preparation.
Rich marine life!
We sailed off for our return trip to the mainland after our breakfast, not wanting to leave without getting into some action on our departure. We snorkeled somewhere in a spot where corals are dead, but it didn’t disappoint us. We were greeted by school of blue fusiliers shining brightly against the morning sunlight. Then a turtle appeared almost with same color of the corals, crawling on the bed perhaps looking for food. Then a white tip shark appeared wiggling directly beneath us, we watched in awe but can’t get nearer. 😛 Then the sea turtle appeared again, the blue fusiliers still near us. It was beautiful, it was such pure bliss. For the nth time I felt humbled with the exquisiteness of creation!
We cruised further passing the reefs in turquoise waters with the sunny skies above us, until we lost them and finally in the deep blue waters. All waters again, punctuated by few fishing boats in the distance…
Not an End
I’m sure there will be another chance to be back in Apo Reefs, there are still numerous dive spots to be explored including the ship wreck I read about. That’s a reason enough to plan for a return. The shark ridge which I know have lot to offer is waiting to be visited. There are few things that are lovelier the second time around, I knew Apo Reefs is one of them, I believe… 🙂
Now I aim to dive every month as every diver should be. And I have few plans as I begin for another diving year, schedules and preparations were put to order. My mind thinking to mix some pleasure while on a work trip to Cebu but it turned out the conference was cancelled, and the final venue is not close to the waters. I became restless and alternately devised another trip plan. Surprisingly, Angel invited me to join him in Mactan over a weekend suggesting for a dive. I was ecstatic and grateful, it was just perfect as a start for diving pursuits with my favorite dive buddy. The next thing I did was made myself free on the weekend, bought my tickets, and work harder to put things in order before getting some leisure.
Perfect Get-Away
The week has been full at work, and on Friday I was running for meetings. But the thought of weekend lifted my spirits, and I could almost smell the sea waters. 🙂 My Saturday mornings has been reserved for early walks but I was up very much earlier as usual to catch my flight. And the usual sneak-while-everyone-still-asleep thrilled me once more! It was a crisp morning and the cold winds embraced me as we boarded the plane, the horizon promising a sunny day. The flight was smooth and just like with my previous Cebu Pacific flights we touched down Mactan International Airport earlier than schedule. The skies were downcast but hoping there would be no rains during our dives.
I watched the morning commotion on my taxi as I rode to Punta Engano, not the usual way to go straight to downtown Cebu. This weekend, we will be stationed in Mactan island and guess what? We are staying at Hilton Resorts & Spa – yes, the famous pink Hilton of Cebu! Midtown Cebu, Grand Hotel, Montebello, Crown Regency Suites, Days Hotel, Cebu Plaza, Waterfront were few of the hotels I find shelter in other occasions but never on luxurious ones like Hilton. 😛 Courtesy of Angel who got a gift certificate for two-night stay for two as one of his complimentary award for his travel blog. It was an honor to share his prize, experiencing a luxurious stay at pink Hilton is not in my list. 🙂
Everything is pink as I stepped down from the taxi, after some preliminaries at the front desk I shoot up to 22nd floor, buzzed Room 2203 and sadly woke up Angel who barely slept 3 hours. 😦 He was still in stupor as he let me in. 😛 I reached out to the terrace and watched the morning horizons overlooking the beach, calm crystal waters and green vegetations yonder. It was almost two months from our last trip and so there were catch up stories to tell, then went down to Vanilla Beach Café for a sumptuous breakfast. I watched in awe of the abundance of food, all free! But I needed a light meal for my dive, Angel wanted to try everything he fancied with! 😛 I love long breakfasts with stories but we need to rush to Maribago beach for the dives, we are expected at 10am.
For some adventure and to save transportation costs, we chose to commute to Kontiki Divers. After a wrong stop, few inquiries and 200 m walk, we reached the diveshop on time. Ms Diana was out there to welcome and introduce us to DM Julian, it was some kind of exclusive dive for us – no other divers to join us! Without delay, we went off to the shore for the diving boat – alas, it was high tide and we need to wade in the waters! We discovered that there was lot of resorts lining up the beach which includes the Maribago Blue Waters.
First Dives of the Year
Our first stop was Agus Bay, we descend on a sandy area then getting deeper to a wall with reefs. It felt good to be back in the depths, so relaxing – indeed a second home. We drifted watching the scenery, there is really something peaceful with the fishes. There were damsels, fusiliers, variety of anthias, banners, variety of angels, some butterfly, lionfish and more. There were gorgonians I passed by trying to look closely for macros. But alas, I forgot to put on my contacts! 😛 I planned to have it when I got to the hotel but simply slip from my mind. There were bubble corals, tubes, some table but no sponges. I tried to touch something that looks like sea cucumber but turn out to be a hard coral. There were few nudis and pelagics were nowhere. After 48 mins with 27.8m as deepest we surfaced near Maribago Blue Waters, the boat waiting to pick us up.
After an hour of interval, we descend at Marine Station limiting to 25m deepest according to DM Julian. It was sandy slope until we went deeper to a wall covered with reefs. There were seafans in green, yellow, brownish and lavender. Bubble corals were abundant, some crinoids and variety of hard corals. There were, damsels, moorish idol, butterfly, angels, groupers, lionfish, anthias and more. We were stunned when a large school of medium-sized bluefin trevally appeared before us! It darkened our view but was truly mesmerized with this wonderful display of creation, about tens of thousands of them. So near to us as we drifted on and passed us by. As we get shallower we went east and found the crane artificial reef which is now fully covered with corals. I found lot of fishes nearby including my favorite puffer fish. We drifted shallower until we had our safety stop, we linger more and hopped on the corals until we surfaced right on the concrete steps of Club Kontiki. We were 48 mins down and went 22.8m as our deepest. It was already past 2pm and so we ran out of time for third dive as we wanted. After a coffee break and some pleasantries with Ms Diana, we settled our bills and rushed back to the hotel – grateful it wasn’t drizzling anymore.
More of Mactan
Angel planned for a dinner at Vienna Kaffehaus to try if comparable at CdeO 😛 , so after dark we went searching for the resto. Our choice: Bauern Platter, Green Mix Salad, Kartoffel Soup plus fruit shakes and blueberry cheesecake – all yummy but his fave Pasta Pesto was not in the menu! 😛
The next morning we went to hear mass at Sto. Nino Mactan in Visayan, decided to walk back to the hotel but when we passed Mactan Shrine we went to take a look. It has an obelisk (!), a large mural of Mactan Battle, monument of Lapu-Lapu, some souvenir shops and park. And there were Korean tourists geting around in the park with matching guide. Passing Shangri-La, a bit farther we dropped by at Scubaworld Diveshop – had a brief chat with the shop manager (a diver perhaps), and bought some dive supplies – I was looking for beanie hood but not available. After a few meters, we finally got to the hotel entrance. We’re famished already and so went straight to Vanilla Beach for our sumptuous brunch. Again I was overwhelmed of the abundance when there’s so much people out there who have nothing to eat!
We wanted to make most of our stay at the resort, the remaining few hours were spent at the house reef to snorkel – waters again – ah, this is life! 🙂 The parasols along the white beach, the infinity pool and the calm waters were picture perfect. But our love for marine life pushed us further and we were not disappointed, as soon as we got near the two rock islets fishes started to appear. They have installed artificial reefs, big round concrete culverts that were almost covered with corals. There were anthias, damsels, groupers, triggers, pipefish, sergeants. Angel spotted a lionfish coyly swimming under its abode, which he pointed out to me. 🙂 There were larger groupers, triggers, goatfish under the culverts. Throngs of anthias came near us as if wanted to be fed – so beautiful! 🙂 Oh, I will never get tired of marine life…
Special Tryst
We rushed and shoot up to 22nd floor for the last time – to freshen up and finally pack up. Last few minutes in this luxurious trance. After some clearance at the front desk, we took a cab to airport leaving our pink abode behind us. Such a wonderful experience, I wouldn’t splurge my hard earned peso just to spend a night in this kind of lavishness. It was such an honor that Angel shared this luxury treat with me.
This weekend was a perfect tryst with my favorite dive buddy, I never indulge myself a leisure getaway on a January when work is just too full. But things just went perfectly and we both loved every minute of it. Mactan weekend will be a special memory for me and Angel. Shhhhh, I suspect he was sneaking on my Cebu dive plans… 🙂
Life in the Great Beyond 
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