Madness in Mantangale 🐟

Madness in Mantangale 🐟

cbartazo

Coming back in this little paradise always felt like coming home, this is my residence for diving and will always be. More than a decade ago, this was where I braved the rigors of basic scuba skills. Donning the gears and with that sweet breath of oxygen underwater for the first time in its waters, was unforgettable. The staff always welcomed me like I am a family. The homey comforts in MADRI was just perfect for our year-end (2019)dive escapade.

That weekend was perfect timing as the dive resort was not crowded, and it was relaxing as there was no need to rush to Mantangale.  Sir Dodong assured that tides would be right for dives by midday, thus our commute was just in right pace. We chanced again Russians for that day, a couple from Moscow who was still arriving to join the day’s dives.

As we waited for take-off, we had pleasantries with Sir Dodong, and had my regulator for some safety check as its mouthpiece too was due for replacement. The cheery weather was perfect with blue skies as we watched Camiguin Island over the horizon. A sight to behold, so mesmerizing! Relaxing at the dive shop with this view is such a wonderful gift of nature.

Lapinig Island

The Russians joined us finally at the shop and we rushed for the boat after we geared up. In less than ten minutes, we anchored for our first descent.  The surf was bit up drawn by the tide, our descent went smoothly unto sandy slope. The spot is haven for Christmas tree worms, they were all over massive corals in various colors. I had fun watching as they flop down instantly but few stood their grounds. There were lot of linkia laevegata scattered around, culcita, choco chip stars, fish juveniles over the corals, damsels, chromis, angels, bannerfish, moorish idol and anthias in varied colors.  We found some trashes though, mostly sachets of coffee and milk, fishing lines and nylon rope which I neatly rolled and tied up to avoid tangles.  There were craters as we roamed around and spotted an alibuag too! I noticed a hairy shrimp over the anemone cohabiting with clownfish. As we roamed, we passed coral field with lots of fishes hanging over, those mysterious crevices too, chances are critters were just lurking in the dark.  This lowly uninhabited islet looks ordinary and desolate but you never knew how diverse it could be deep down!

We ascend after 52 minutes with my deepest at 28.7 meters, with nitrox 30%.

Banaug Shoal

After a relaxing lunch, we prepared for our last descent at the house reef –always my favorite here in Mantangale.  The surf didn’t wane, it was necessary to hold the rope until the bouy.  Yes, descending to the shoal needs a line or you could end up somewhere else! Halfway, the resident midnight snapper started darting around as if to welcome us. It’s a lot bigger now! As soon as we got on top of the shoal, a large swarm of fish came around and I guess the resident creatures have gotten used to human visitors.  The rhythm of colors as they swarmed and wiggled on this shelter was a sight to behold, its perfect diverse environs is a nature’s wonder. Black corals abound, so with soft corals, whips, feather stars and more. We found nudis, giant clams, scorpion fish resting on table coral, lionfish, and moray eel! We went around, this time I went slow so that after a full circle it would be time to ascend before my NDL gets done.  Other divers were gone ahead including Sir Dodong, while our guide went up halfway and waited for us.  I have wanted to spend my last available minute before I start to ascend, so when my NDL was down to 1, signaled Angel for ascent and slowly as I could went up still looking down the mound.  I went 33.3 meters with 49 minutes as bottom time, still with 30% nitrox.

We speed off over the afternoon surf to the shores, with happy smiles as we unload to the shop. Two wonderful dives in one of our favorite sites.  Just enough to warm my diver’s heart.

After for more than a decade of diving pursuits, MADRI will always be my go-to abode. Essentially relaxed, not crowded, environment-friendly and not distant from my base.  Ma’am Nana is just a text away, always ready to accommodate my request even sometimes an exclusive dive for me if there were no other guests.  How blessed to have stumbled this happy place for my diving escapades without traveling far!  Absolutely, there will be more diving trips here in this homely corner of Balingoan, MADRI is always worth coming back!

Climate Justice Now! 🌏

Climate Justice Now! 🌏

cbartazo

This is our cry, and it’s getting louder every year. How could you imagine that scientifically, if humans won’t do something about this global crisis, our beloved home Mother Earth has only thirteen (13) years to live!  And even with such miniscule years left, can anyone do something about this emergency?  Do we have time left to save our common home?  Can there be effective ways to restore the health of the planet? Do nations in the COP2 consistent with the agreements in the convention? Do governments (local and national) have enacted laws effectively for the protection of the environment?  So many questions, with no clear answers.

On second thought, are we helpless and Mother Earth doomed to destruction?

We are not at all powerless, if we integrate our passion and our love for life, environment and for making this world a better place to live, especially for the next generation, then we can do so much for this global problem.  Our lifestyle has much to manifest if we desire to contribute and do workable solutions to help in this crisis.

CY 2019 was a crucial year, yet in many ways grateful being able to do practical ways that lessen my carbon footprints and impacts in the environment. I had an inventory of few radical changes that was done if not to engage myself in a conscious environment-friendly living.

  • Limit taking flights during travels

My trips last year were limited, I guess for very good reasons including my environment impacts. For frequent travelers this could be hard. I had only 3 round trip flights to Manila in the past year, and those trips were mandatory in nature. Compared in prior years, most of my flights were for recreation, so for my dive trips I chose the boat and bus to reach my destination. Shooting two birds with one stone – it was cheaper and less carbon impact!

  • Grow your food and grow more trees anywhere possible

Last year, with the help of my sisters we finally expanded our backyard garden for vegetables and have promised to maintain it. Although, we have veggies garden in the past, it wasn’t as extensive as it ought to be. Growing plant-based foods is not only healthy and cost saving, it lessens the impacts of commercial agriculture.  And what a joy, to watch your gardens blossom every day!  I guess it’s more therapeutic. We planted around the backyard more trees – golden showers, indian tree, and fruit trees – guayabano, guava and bauno. I was glad that our rambutan had its first fruits last year! Aside from alleviating global warming, we can enjoy eating fruits from our own backyard!

  • Think twice before buying new clothing

The fashion industry is one of the biggest contributors to global wastes and carbon emissions, so stuffing much clothes in our closet without using them is mortal sin. And so, never buy that new blouse, jeans or jacket if you think it could never be use at least 15 times! Just few days back, I went inside a second hand shop just to take a look, that distressed jeans and summer dress were not costly and still looked new but I know I do still have mine of those stuff for my need. Women must say no to fast fashion, to share in the unsatiated need of the less fortunate who can barely cloth their backs. We are talking here about need, not the wants.  Now and then, I unload my closet and hand down my unused clothing to those who need them.

  • Utilize public transport and consider not owning a personal vehicle

Public utility vehicles (PUVs) are common means of transportation in the Philippines, so this is not all too difficult.  All my life I relied on public transport – be it motorela, tricycle, jeepney, bus, rail, boat.  The comforts of cars or privately-owned vehicles were limited to hitch rides from friends, my sisters or official vehicles.  Getting my own personal car is too far from sight, for more than a decade now my driver’s license was never renewed.

  • Reduce consumption of single use plastics

I admit that I still have struggles in this area, while I wanted to eliminate them in my day to day routines there are still products I need wrapped with plastics. I have avoided fruits and veggies in plastic packaging, sort of non-sense I believe. I refuse plastic utensils when eating out, and I chose food chains where it can be requested, and always thank them for the favor. I am grateful that the local government of the city where I am based have implemented effective Jan 1, 2019 the no plastic policy for all establishments in the locality, and I admire the political will of the city administration.  Now in it’s second year of implementation, the people are now fully aware and have adopted this in their daily routines.  It is mandatory and the fines are hefty for the violators. People are now used to have their eco bag when going to market or supermarkets, or buying food at your suki carenderia needs containers now. These are visible improvements and I’m looking forward when plastics are totally banned in all communities. And let us all be trash advocates as a lifestyle – whether diving or trekking, picking up trashes is the least we could do for mother nature.

  • Be mindful in sorting trash and garbage and treat this task with importance

All over the country, trash bins were provided in public places, government offices, schools, hospitals and even the lowly Motorola here in Cagayan de Oro. We can all utilize them but let us be mindful which bin to throw our trash, stop and think – plastic bottles, cans, food wastes, paper/cartoon, plastic wrapper, and more. The bins sometimes are down to these specific labels, so please let us treat this simple chore with importance.  Especially at home, let us be consistent in waste segregation. Our garbage collection system will be in peril, the mix-up will cause delay, will destroy facilities and will cause more working hours with corresponding costs.  Let us cooperate and be responsible with our wastes.

  • Invest on environment friendly personal essentials

Slowly, I bought for myself personal needs that don’t harm the environment, bit expensive but not hazardous.  My Lush© shampoo bar and soap with matching tins were not cheap, this brand sell their products naked and I believe patronizing them will encourage more producers which will eventually lead to affordable merchandise. Now, I have reusable pads, bamboo toothbrush, tooth tabs, plant-based insect repellent and set of bamboo straws. The good thing is local businesses started to produce environment friendly products, readily available in the local market.

Here’s hoping that everyone shall be good stewards of what was entrusted to us by the Creator, each of us plays a vital role on this fight for the environment.

In one of the speeches of Greta Thurnberg with the youth currently fighting for climate emergency, she said, “It’s like the children setting off the fire alarm, then parents went out, smelled the air and affirmed the house is indeed on fire, but went back inside the house, finished dinner, watched TV and went to bed. If a house is on fire, we don’t wait for years to call the fire department!”    This Swedish girl has a lot to say and she is right, we are aware of this sad situation yet our actions were not justifiable, the reactions especially our governments took so long, much has been left undone even now!

So, what kind of Planet Earth we want to leave to the next generation?

Wonders in Moaboal

Wonders in Moaboal

cbartazo

I am a firm believer as a diver, that the underwater has always surprises in store so that a certain spot can give one different sightings every dive. The underwater realm is a stash of dynamic organisms, today and tomorrow’s encounter is never the same. A decade of diving has taught me so, the wonders of marine life can never be exhausted.

Millions of Sardines!

Indeed, coming back again in any dive sites gave new encounters which can never be compared from the last. Let it be marine creatures, new acquaintance, locals, or even circumstances where one can reflect lot of good things are always in store in every situation. My dives this year were few, yet our destinations were undoubtedly our favorites and probably few of the best in the country.

It was a last minute decision to return in Moalboal last October, as usual I had the last word where to go as there was no previous plan. I needed to go away a little farther and it was a random choice to revisit South Cebu. We were so blessed that our arrangements went smooth – our home Moalboal Backpackers Lodge for the accommodation, and Savedra Dive Center for the dives.

Swarm of these juveniles…

Isla de Pescador

Our 5am bus trip from the city allowed us a very early arrival in town, giving us ample time to relax and prepare for the dives.  The town was all in motion as we got in Basdiot, weekends like any destinations are full and bustling with tourists.  The cheery weather lifted my spirits, forward looking for wonderful encounters during the day. We were welcomed warmly at the diveshop, the wall chart indicated that we belonged to Lyndon’s (DM) group on our first dive at Pescador Island!

Aboard the Seastar, we sped through the surf, the lowly island looming before us as we got nearer and in 15 minutes we dropped anchors.  Few boats already moored indicative of other divers ahead of us. Our DM briefed us of the current, so from northeast point we should drift to the northwest but first we need to cross against the current until the wall, navigating with our right shoulder against the wall. I informed Lyndon that I wore a brand new wetsuit and it might affect my bouyancy, he assured that he would bring extra weight in case it is necessary. And it was fierce indeed, I have always avoided swimming against current. It was exhaustive!

Watching from inside the Cathedral

Every inch beyond was filled with so much life – from echinoderms, hard & soft corals to swarming variety of fish – there was so much colours! I kept myself close to the wall as I searched for some critters just floating until we got to the Cathedral! It is a cavern with holes, and getting inside with keen eyes you were like staring a large monster face! We linger a little longer inside just watching the illuminated holes, trying to absorb its grandeur, how magnificent! There was a stonefish, giant clam, bivalves that snap as you got close, and a lot of linkia laevigata. There were turtles and we found a huge one sleeping on a crevice, while we left it alone, unfortunately another group of divers came and poke the poor animal. 😦  The wall has few caverns and lot of crevices that were undoubtedly shelter of various critters. We ended up at the northwest end of the island, actually half-circled Pescador. Thankfully I didn’t have trouble with my new wetsuit.  Maybe if we got to dive here in the future, we will reverse the route to get the full circle, without the current of course! 🙂

Sexy shrimps, can you see them?

We cruised back to mainland and while halfway on the waters, to our surprise a pod of bottle-nosed dolphins appeared and sailed alongside our boat! They lingered for a little while to everybody’s delight, until finally we sped our way to the shores with all our smiles. The warm sun, sea breeze and salt waters spraying on us was pure delight.

Sardines Shoal

Since I first came in Moalboal decade ago, we always aimed for the sardines and this trip was no exception. The house reef was listed for our second dive in the afternoon, and it was an exclusive dive for us! Our surface interval was more than enough for our quick bites and relaxed a bit longer before we got back at the dive shop, just a few meters away from our hostel.

The sardines was all around us!

We geared up excitedly but our DM changed the plan due to the afternoon current, instead of a shore dive we shifted for the boat. So, we sailed shortly to Panagsama Sanctuary and descend there and drifted for the shoal eastward immersing in the warm afternoon waters. We maintained our depth in the shallow reef along the Basdiot shores scouring the bottom for trashes. We gathered some plastic debris, thankful there wasn’t much when the area was filled with many settlers and establishments just few meters from the shoreline. In spite of this, there was much marine life in the area – sexy shrimps lurking on soft corals, ornate pipefish, nudis, lobster and juvenile frogfish! We drifted until we got into swarm of big eye scad, there was lot of them swerving and shifting direction as we moved along. There were other fish specie that came in schools also, and to my mind they knew and learned that being in cluster commanded force and they were less threatened.

I kept looking up until in an instant a dark patch clouded over us, the sardines shoal was upon our very eyes! Like a magic but for me, it’s purely mystical. I know I will never get tired watching again and again such incredible marine sight. 🙂 How majestic are His creation!

Nudibranch!

We kept floating mindful too of other fish in our midst, there were five barracudas that tried to invade the swarm but wasn’t able to penetrate at all. And how marvelous that they could go that shallow, barracudas are generally deep sea dwellers! We still linger floating until we reached the end of the stretch, Lyndon signaled accordingly to turn around and went against the mild afternoon current. Angel and I immersed much longer finning coyly with the massive sardines’ swarm above us, engulfed myself few more moments of wonder until our DM signaled for surface which we both agreed. We ended up at the front of the dive shop entrance channel. Angel helped me with my fins as we walked back to the shop with our gears on. I guess even with the current I still felt energized with such wonderful encounter, it was for me another relaxing experience with the phenomenal sardines. I could only wish they would remain to have Panagsama as refuge, shelter and home forever.

The sardines clouded over us!

We capped our day with a big dinner in Marina, yet many times our encounters for the day came into our chats until we retired for the night.

Moalboal will always be our favorite destination for diving, its wonders endlessly captivated my soul. That brought home how amazing the marine world is and why it’s worth protecting the rich biodiversity we have in the country or this planet, for that matter.

Travel Notes:

  1. Leaving Cebu City at 4:30am by bus, one can reach Moalboal before 8:00am still having enough time for 2 dives during the day
  2. Tricycle to Basdiot costs P150.00 for special trip, otherwise P20.00/pax for ordinary trip
  3. Be sure to book your accommodation and dives before heading to Moaboal to avoid trip hassles
  4. Sardines Shoal can still be encountered through snorkelling
  5. Pescador (which literally means fisherman) got its name being refuge of fishermen during inclement weather.
Diving in Jigdup Shoal

Diving in Jigdup Shoal

cbartazo

Obviously, Camiguin Island is one of my favorite destinations for diving, aside from being accessible and cost saving, the sites are arguably teeming with marine life and less crowded from divers. Jigdup Shoal has been a far dream, it was not a usual “go to” site actually, to my mind I presumed it was for hard core divers.

Deep diving at the Shoal!

There is always something new in my favorite island even if I come here again and again. We never thought we could dive in the shoal, it lies in the open seas and any changes in tides, current or waves can be risky. The DM told me that couple of days back the skies were overcast and the surfs were up, so he was hinting for Mantigue Island again for our scheduled dives.

The cheery morning greeted us as we cruised for Camiguin from Balingoan – beautiful sunrise, clear skies, calm waters – exactly what we needed for the day!  I was smiling and hoping at the back of my mind for the shoal. 🙂 Indeed, when we arrived at the diveshop, the DM announced for the Jigdup Shoal trip!

The corals bloom competing each other!

We wasted no time as we cruised for the shoal, situated in front of Bohol seas. The wide, blue waters was unbelievably calm, so perfect for our dives! Again, the God of the seas favored us in that weekend sojourn. Our first descent was in Black Forest, the briefing limited us at 25 meters depth with maximum of 45 minutes. I guess our DM had repetitive dives in the past days, so keeping safe his profile. The rich diversity of marine life was not surprising, the healthy waters was decorated with hard and soft corals and teeming with fish life. Floating around in the midst of marine creatures felt like home. It was so engaging I fell into more than our limits without noticing my depth. But being back in the waters after six long months was what I needed, I was aching for peace and serenity I can only find in the waters. It was unfortunate as I went around I found a fish trap waiting for prey, I felt bad just seeing them. In no time, I hold on to Angel to steady myself for our safety stop until we surface up. I went 32.2 meters and we had 56 minutes bottom time, way beyond the given limits.

Can you see the scorpion fish?

We spent our surface interval lounging on our boat amid the blue waters. The good thing was we are all alone in the shoal, at a distance I can only saw few fishers on their small boats treading for some catch. The blue skies and blue waters was so calming.

Blue skies, blue seas. Every shades in blue…

I left myself under the sun for few minutes just watching the horizons.

Culcita Noveginae side by side with a feather star, a rare sight!

Our second descent was in The Wall, which was just nearby and was richly decorated with critters. There were nudis, feather stars, giant clams, perennial anemone fish and lots of juveniles. We were hoping for white tips or mantas but we were not lucky. We sighted a turtle gently swimming away from us, pointing it out to Angel – his favorite specie. We swam and floated in the warm afternoon waters making most of the last few minutes, until we had our safety stop in the shallows. Hopping up on the corals searching for critters, we found a black shell on the sandy bottom, lingered awhile touching until it becomes all white! We lingered more until the DM gestured for surface. At 78 minutes bottom time, it was longer as we have planned. As usual, it was surprisingly good!

This elusive cowrie can turn all white after being touched!

We cruised back to the island grateful for the dives conquering the Jigdup Shoal. Camiguin has always in store few surprises feeding my soul, and it was such pure joy!

NB.

We were hoping to avail of perks during the Camiguin Dive Festival but nil, registrants need to appear at the DOT Office located in Mambajao, our dive shop was in Tupsan few kilometers away before town proper.

Bucas Grande: My Island, My Home

Bucas Grande: My Island, My Home

cbartazo

Serenity is where home is…

There are places you wanted to come home to even how far and remote it could be. A place where one can find comfort surrounded with green and blue waters listening the crashing waves, yet secluded from great structures. Bucas Grande Islands has always been my favorite get away.

After a lull of almost two years, I was back in the islands. There was no plan actually, my summer was void with trips except my farm visits. Things just fell its place, randomly our good friend in municipal tourism gave a ring and my travel buddy just pop up to visit the islands. My mind drift off to serene waters, blue lagoons, green environs, patch of white beaches, the nocturnal crickets singing, and the crashing waves that lull me to sleep. Simple pleasures that can be savored only in these remote islands.

We arrived Port Hayanggabon in time for lunch, so had a stop in a seafood shack while waiting for our boat. Lot of new structures sprouted at the port since my last visit. We found our boat and wasted no time for the cruise amid the waves, smiling our way as the sea breeze blew on our skins cooling the hot afternoon. And headed straight to tourism center for some pleasantries with our hosts and picking up where we left off since our last meeting.  After more than ten years there has been changes to cater the growing number of tourists and crew, and in a way surprised of new structures around the area.. The old tourism center almost dilapidated gave in to a larger shack with wider receiving area, surrounding ramps, platforms and docking area. There’s a floating cottage and floating restaurant nearby – well, I was wondering about its waste disposal!

Rushing up to get most of the remaining afternoon and the low tide, we head straight to Sohoton Cove – the mystical maze of islands covered in green foliage. We entered smoothly, our boat maneuvered perfectly with no hesitation or doubt. Once inside, I still had that same feeling of wonder like getting into a different realm, into another world – a city on the waters! We did our homage in Hagukan Cave, swam the warm waters glad of the super low tide, most importantly it was all to ourselves, such perfect timing! That rock in the middle was all to ourselves to stand on, as we view above the rock formations. I skipped the Magkakaub Cave, it was bit crowded. Angel did the climb and the plunge perfectly. 🙂 It started to drizzle as we did the last round and finally headed for the exit and in few minutes we were back in the center.  Later, we hopped to Puyo Island but decided to settle for Marka A Island for a swim.  We picked up few trash from the shores as we went around, the good thing was because it was already late, it was all to ourselves again.

We had a relaxing dinner back at the center, all the crew and tourists called it a day so we were left in tranquility, savoring again the serenity of the islands. The crickets started to chirp in the dusk. The center is now lit with few colored bulbs, a new improvement I guess as they were able to generate energy supply from few solar panels installed.

Unfortunately, Cinnamon Island where we had our lodgings for the night were full of guests so we missed its relaxing mode like it used to be. The crashing waves though, muffled the laughing and singing of the people.

Time was too limited, the next day though we revisited few sites we love. Our first agenda was the Tojoman Lake in search for the sting-less jellyfish, but there was none and instead looked up as brown giant bats started flying above the trees. We paddled around and our boat guide led us to Lubogon Lagoon, we found few juveniles silently floating the waters.  Tiktikan Lake used to be operated by fishermen coop, more structures were now at the entrance, bigger shack, slides, catwalk, platform and diving board. The interior lake itself was maintained but was deserted when we got there after a short trek, more people preferred the fronts which offered diving from heights.

La Fortuna was our last stop, the small strip of white beach at the front was an attraction but more was in store for us.  We trek for ten minutes for Bubon Lagoon, we have explored this secret nook before but now went beyond watching the placid waters. We kayaked around the lagoon, the lush foliage covering karst cliffs reflecting on the waters was purely a relaxing sight. It was all to ourselves! We’re on the run, yet we snatched few minutes to swam and play at the beach as we got back in the front.  Clottie joined us without complaining, this cute curly pup goof around with us, I gave her a bath but didn’t like it! And we enjoyed Raffy’s fresh buko, enough to quench our thirst and made us full!

We had late light lunch back at the center with our hosts, had brief pleasantries and finally bid bye. It was so short.  We cruised the afternoon waves for the port, again the sea breeze blew gently on our skin as we watched the vast blue sea before us. So brief, yet it felt so refreshing!

Last Note

It’s now more than a decade since I kept coming back here and I am glad that the islands have maintained its pristine waters and still free from trash. As we get around hopping to our fave spots, my keen eyes noticed few scraps which I pointed out to our boatman, in turn he assured me that a team was assigned for such task on a daily basis. The lesson I learned from the locals was that, getting the community involved to protect and preserve their invaluable resources was an effective strategy, they understood that nobody would do it for them except themselves and its protection is their ultimate mission if not to sustain this nature’s gift for their livelihood.  The coastal communities around the islands understood well that natural resources is always worth of care and preservation for the next generation.