"Now more than ever do I realize that I will never be content of a sedentary life on the surface, I will always be haunted by thoughts of being drenched elsewhere"….
After almost two decades in diving pursuit, we’re still in search of new sites around the country. So just before summer ended, we planned another dive trip aiming for something fresh and different. Coming to Bantayan Island has been shelved for a while, obviously for reason that there was no scuba diving opportunity there. The … Read more Explore New Dive Sites Around Bantayan Island
Trips during the month of December especially flying is normally shunned even on official matters, I always decline politely and just delegate someone else if there is a need. My year-end dive escapades (if there’s one) were always near my base, my dive buddy perfectly understood my ground. This year (2025) however, was an exception. … Read more Year-End Diving Adventures in Anilao
Descent to depths is always a pleasure but combine it with heights, is I would say pure indulgence and what a joy! 😊There are places close to my heart that have this perfect combination but obviously not within my reach, distant travel and careful arrangements are necessary. Truly, it’s pure bliss having this combination in … Read more Combining Heights and Depths: A Journey Through Nature
Aiming for International Women Dive Day was my original plan after having missed it in the past years but it was unfortunate the weather didn’t cooperate. The dive shop explained that visibility was not good and dives can be done the following day keeping crossed fingers and hoping it would be clearer enough for the … Read more Exploring the Depths: Birthday Dive Trip Recap
The quick get-away in Camiguin Island this summer was again another time to relax, recharge and remind myself I need to be on the road again! While I was planning for an escape to my go-to diveshop, my buddy randomly suggested for a quick dive trip wherever I want! 😊Apparently, my happy smart choice was … Read more Sustainable Diving in Camiguin: Clean-Up and Relaxation
Blue river? I was intrigued when I first heard of it, rivers may have clear waters or worse murky, but never blue. But this river is indeed blue! Couple of weeks ago, I visited this best-kept secret in Hinatuan, a coastal town in Surigao Sur. It was almost two hours from San Agustin, and as we go through the spot with those trees and vines, it felt like I’m transported into another world. It gave me a sense of being in a city somewhere in another dimension.
The blue waters seems to beacon one – to just jump into the river, but how mysterious! I watched in awe – so pure, so natural, hidden in this remote corner in Mindanao. It was heard there were groups who tried to dive its depths. Indeed, they posted on the info board a report of technical and cave specialty divers who went down to explore the depths of the river. How magnificent, but unfortunately there were no details but merely brief introduction of the expedition. 😦 It looked so creepy at the river head, the dark corner mysteriously hiding is a cave underneath!
I was still cracking my head why it is blue, when my companions were waving at me to come into the waters. Descending from the concrete steps into the shallow waters, it seemed I was overwhelmed of the wonderful sight before me. And once in the cold waters, there was that familiar urge to see what’s beyond, the rush to just dive in to the depths. Yes, lo and behold! A white pavement-like on its side down to the bed on a slope, with a depth of about 30 feet – that’s what made the water so blue! 🙂 The slope is formed like a cone with about two feet wide clearing on its bottom.
With visibility of about 50-60 feet, the waters was so clear and with those oversized sweetlips and rabbitfish swimming coyly, it was a wonderful sight! Sea species claimed its abode in the river, yet the waters is brackish – such another mystery! The waters is connected in the deep blue sea underneath, it is part of the sea camouflaging as river. I stayed longer just floating and swam nearer into that mysterious dark corner at the river head. Someday, somehow I wish I could penetrate its mysterious depths….
One day, I promise a return in this baffling, enchanted river in Hinatuan.
Travel Notes:
Hinatuan is about 1.5 hours from San Agustin and 1.5 hours from Bislig City, this coastal town in Surigao del Sur can be reached by bus from San Francisco, Agusan del Sur.
My route: Cagayan de Oro – Butuan (by aircon bus – 4 hours)
Butuan to San Agustin via Los Arcos, Bayugan (by private vehicle – 2.5 hours)
San Agustin to Hinatuan (by private vehicle – 1.5 hours)
One busy Thursday, I took the last flight for Manila to pursue a postponed trip. The random decision to be in Puerto Galera for weekend dives turned out to be a surprising discovery of its depths! Though this place wasn’t in my priority list, it was the most practical option to fill-in our schedule. I have always known PG for its beaches, crowds and parties. Personally I shunned crowded beach, it isn’t my cup of tea. And Puerto Galera is exactly like that as I’ve seen in the media.
Threatened by continous rains in the metro, I was hoping and crossing my fingers that the waters would favor us. It was almost seven weeks from my last dive, I direly needed the waters for my dried-up gills!
Sabang Feast
Arriving Sabang, which is 5.5 kilometers away from downtown PG late afternoon, we were thankful we arrived safe after a detour to Calapan City. Indeed, the district is bustling – stores, restos, bars, and people filled the area. Dive resorts and shops lined up along the shore. It was a relief when we finally got into our lodgings, at the same time too our dive operator.
The next morning promised a sunny day, we gathered up our gears and reported at the dive shop, to meet our DM for some briefing and choosing the sites. I was requesting if we could make the Hole in the Wall, I just thought the spot is unique and it was intriguing! DM Guy was helpful affirming for the Hole in the afternoon dive.
A mall wreck at monkey beach!
Our first descent was at Monkey Beach not far from the area, the visibility wasn’t really good but manageable enough as we don’t need beyond 10 meters for exploration. It was a sandy slope patched with colorful crinoids and with active fish life. We spotted garden eels, puffer, trumpetfish, scorpions, large rabbitfish and morays. Angel took fancy of the juvenile lionfish for its photos, there were nudis too scattered in the area. It was an easy dive but what delighted us most was the small wreck there lying on its port side. It was a steel boat now encrusted with hard corals and crinoids. It perked me up as we go round, and that familiar rush to swim inside – just love the mystery! 🙂 But the DM just watched me and gave no clue to penetrate. Peeking inside from window bars, I watched the active fish life inside. After 49 minutes we ascend with my 90 bars air left.
Lavender nudi!
Our DM getting the impression that we were both interested with wrecks, suggested that our next descent will be at Sabang Wrecks, Angel and I was delighted! 🙂 As foreign divers were off for some deep dive somewhere, the boat dropped us at the area for our dive. Angel and I was both thrilled exploring the wreck – not just one but three! The first wreck was a small steel boat still intact now encrusted with hard corals and crinoids, we went around watching the active fish life, there was much dwellers. The oversized bat fish were so friendly, they almost touch your hands. There were trumpetfish, and those vertical swimming shrimpfish. I was amused with the two big clown fish who went near my hands and who did bit my fingers (!) perhaps looking for food. As we got full circle around the wreck, we found at sea turtle with a remora on its back, taking refuge and sleeping. It was so friendly, it didn’t went away when we approached him Angel took photos
Friendly sea turtle 🙂
but the lights didn’t disturb him, he opened his eyes and closed it again after seeing us. And I did touch him and he allowed us to do that! The second wreck was small lying on its port side on the sand and also encrusted with corals. As we went along, a school of small sardines appeared above us. The last wreck was some wooden boat almost devoured but the engine still in tact, some remnants of its hull still there, a reminder it was once there. We had finally our safety stop on a sandy area with coral garden. We surfaced at the front of the dive shop, so we decided to swim back to the shore as the boat was nowhere in sight. I have no choice but to walk back to the diveshop with the gears on my back, which I really don’t like until now.
Shy puffer!
Our leisure pasta lunch in a deserted Italian resto served as our surface interval and rest. We were equally eager for the third dive for the Hole in the Wall, and while DM Guy briefed us I was asking many questions, especially it was known to be with strong currents. At past 2pm, we descend at Escarceo Point on a sandy slope then to a wall filled with hard and soft corals and colorful crinoids, the visibility was not really good but very manageable. There was strong current (!) and we drifted fast, I was on alert not to be far from our DM and so with Angel, although managing currents underwater is challenging I still felt jitters on it. We passed by corals, critters, sponges and colorful reef fishes and some pelagics obscurely drifting. Trying to stay close to the bed until we got to wall full of colorful corals and crinoids, our DM signaled and pointed to something. I tried to steady myself and followed the direction, and there the hole! I was looking for Angel but he was above us a little farther. DM Guy went ahead and passing the hole was like in a flash! It was very quick, I was pushed by the current to the other side and Angel was there lingering on the coral garden. The current was still strong, we head back shallower on the gardens and got away from the current, I was stung with fire corals. 😦 We explore more during our safety stop on a sandy area, finding some nudis, moray, juvenile lionfish and more critters. We ascend after 51 minutes with my air still at 100 bars.
Mysterious wreck!
We wanted to make most of our stay in Sabang, so Angel and I agreed to have one more dive the next morning, we were such thrilled as we will explore another wreck – MV Alma Jane, considered as the longest in Puerto Galera waters. So after a rushed visit to PG town for Sunday mass followed by a hurried breakfast back in Sabang, we got to the dive shop and geared up once more. The weather has favored us with bright skies promising a sunny day.
Three more foreign divers joined us, a short ten minutes brought us to the area for the descent. We grabbed the bouy line as soon as we got to the waters, slowly descending. It was hazy at first until we caught sight obscurely of the wreck like a monster – though much smaller than in Coron. There lying upright on sandy bottom at about 30 metres, MV Alma Jane encrusted with patches of hard corals. We started our round on its starboard side going front, with those giant batfish decorating. Then on the port side going rear, with oversized rabbit fish swimming coyly. There were crinoids and sighted few small nudis. Ascending few meters, DM Guy signaled for the hull, so we came in tow – DM, me and Angel. And there, that same overwhelming feeling of discovering what’s inside, the mystery is too overpowering! Floating lightly, careful not to touch anything, the tour inside was short but it felt good! 🙂 We went shallower for the shaft, still in tact and few fish linger there. We sighted lot of stonefish camouflaging seated on flat steel surface on the mast. Ascending slowly holding again the bouyline until we had our safety stop, finally we surfaced. The whole wreck itself was a lovely sight!
Giant rabbitfish adorned the wreck…
Indeed, the four dives was like a feast to me. It was a surprising discovery, the sites were marvelous and the wrecks added color to this random trip in Puerto Galera.
Promise for Return
Angel and I was impressed with the sites, we promised for a return perhaps not sooner but eyeing for Verde Island next time. The Lord was generous again with such luxury. Just last February, we were flying over Mindoro from Apo Reef, I recalled he was saying he is interested too with PG but I said vaguely we will do it sometime. I never planned for Puerto Galera but it was a wish coming true for Angel. Unplanned yet we were not disappointed, it was a remarkable experience.
Travel Notes:
Sabang is 5.5 kilometres from town proper of Puerto Galera and can be reach by jeepney.
Puerto Galera is 48 kilometers from the City of Calapan, about 1 hour & 20 minutes by van.
Sabang can be reached by boat direct from Batangas City port about 1 hour and 30 minutes.
My route for this trip was: Manila – Batangas – Calapan – Puerto Galera – Sabang.
Coming to this paradise called Tubbataha was a real privilege and I couldn’t help wonder its significance not only in Philippine waters but also in the neighbouring regions being named as the only marine World Heritage Site in UNESCO list in Southeast Asia. I thought it would be suitable to mention what’s in this world of wonders.
This 97,030 hectare park is home to at least: over 600 species of fish;, 360 species of corals – 72% of coral genera in the world; 60 spcies algae; 7 species of se grasses; 12 species sharks; 13 species of dolphin and whales; nesting hawksbill and green sea turtles; 7 species of sea birds.
The park contains roughly 10,000 hectares of coral reefs and lies at the heart of the Coral Triangle, the center of marine biodiversity in the world; Its islets represents the last intact seabird habitats in the country. Jessie Beazley and Tubbataha Reefs are sources of coral and fish larvae seeding the Sulu Sea.
Tubbataha Seabirds are found in North & South Islets: Black Noddy, Brown Booby, Brown Noddies, Lesser Frigate bird, Masked Booby,and Red Footed Booby.
Seabirds have waterproof plumage and the ability to drink seawater. They inhabit remote areas and give birth to a few young. Migratory by nature, over a hundred species regularly visit Tubbataha but only eight types are recorded to breed locally.
They provide vital fertilizer for nutrient-poor sandbars, allowing the first waves of pioneer plants to survive. Fossilized bird droppings form Phosphorite, a type of rock used for agricultural fertilizers.
Since the last century, numbers have dropped from 20 million to 400,000. The threats were animal and human predators, marine pollution and land development.
Each year it seems another animal is recorded extinct – or at the brink of extinction. One in four mammals is in danger of disappearing from the face of the earth as well as one in eight birds. But half the human population is likely not even aware of the plummeting numbers, or that we’re losing some of the species right at home.
We hope that the citizens of this country would be aware about the treasures of this park and its significance. We pray that everyone will help to strengthen the protection of Tubbataha!
One of those few things that I never grow tired of doing during summer is to be in Bucas Grande group, this secluded place is like home to me. The peaceful environment with its natural attractions has captured my heart and nagged me to savor its beauty even just once in a year.
A couple of weeks ago, I went to my paradise unexpectedly, it was unplanned although I knew I must go. So I seized the opportunity when my trip up north was postponed due to unfavorable weather. The adage was true that while the city is in typhoon, it doesn’t mean that in the distant islands it’s pouring rain, the sun was perfectly shining like summer!
My sister dropped everything back home when I invited her, although at short notice she simply gave in to my whim. Leaving Butuan almost 2pm, we arrived almost 4pm in Bad-as junction and was grateful that van for Port Hayanggabon was stationed leaving any minute. The afternoon sun gives a warm glow as we drove along the coastal towns of Placer, Bacuag, Gigaquit and Claver. We arrived at the port almost sundown, our boat waiting. Rushing to buy for needs, we left almost getting dark. The stars started to appear in the skies and some fireflies welcomed as we cruised for our night’s lodge. The boatman with trained eyes managed our boat single handedly until we reached at Tiktikan Lake almost 7pm. Somehow I still have gotten energy to climb up to the reception area even in dark with only a small torch to illumine our way.
magkakaub cave entrance
Just as it is, everything so natural and unspoiled. There’s no electricity, but they got used to it already, the small kerosene lamp served as our light. The cicadas singing in the darkness, cutting the stillness of the night. We woke up the following morning watching the placid lake before us and the sunrise breaking behind the limestone cliffs.
Sohoton in a Day
We rushed to the information center for a courtesy hi with DH, somehow I’m grateful with all the necessary arrangements he made for my trip, even how short the notice was. So we started early taking advantage of the low tide, I wanted to revisit the hidden charms of my paradise. I always feel that familiar rush of blood flow when entering the cove, so mysterious it felt like I’m transported into another world. We went around and got first into Hagukan Cave, swam inside, stayed for awhile and mingle with other guests. We then proceed to the challenging Magkakaub Cave, walk inside, view the formations and the fruit bats up, then went rock climbing for the exit. Well, we got at the ramp ready for the plunge but alas I still have to gather much courage for the jump 😛 It’s my fourth time and yet my spirit needed some urging. It felt so free having the big leap, the big splash and the water rush felt so good! 🙂 Navigating around the cove watching limestone cliffs covered with greens, clear waters and blue skies is like paradise to me.
the landmark for exit!
My most favorite spot here is the Jellyfish Lagoon (Tojoman Lake), I was ecstatic when DH told me it’s peak season of the jellies! When we entered the lagoon, all others were coming out so it was comforting it won’t be too crowded. And there I watched in awe, of my brown friends starting to float up in view. I swam around getting up close with them. My sister can’t believe it’s stingless. All of them in varied sizes, pulsating like talking to me, and swimming right there all around me. I stayed in the waters long to my heart’s content, swimming with my jelly friends. I still have wanted to linger more but my companions seemed tired already, so I finally went up the boat feeling sorry I have to leave.
boats ready...
After our late lunch and brief rest back at Tiktikan Lake, we cruised to La Fortuna to explore another inland lake there and hoping to get some fresh buko. We walked on a trail to the lake and have some swim there. When we got back, we swam on the white beach while waiting for our boat. I missed Spirit, it should have been fun playing with him in the waters. We cruised to another spot to buy some buko, it was a white beach too and while waiting I swam again with the waves pushing me ashore. 😛 We got back to the info center, catching up DH with some visitors. We savor the fresh buko lamaw while discussing latest updates in the park and the PO. We hastily finished up to see the spot where the new cottage owned by SAVE Sohoton was built. Actually, it’s a good improvement – a new economic activity of the PO. It sat in a cove with turquoise waters and white sands, a simple cottage of indigenous materials still with works on-going. It promises a wonderful spot for swimming, snorkeling or just lounging on the small patch of white beach. We rushed back at the info center and finally sailed to the guest house for night’s refuge, when it began to get dark.
Promise to be Back
The next morning, we woke up watching the placid waters from our window. How serene and beautiful, so peaceful and divine. I knew I never grow tired of coming to this place. I was too glad that it has maintained its unspoiled beauty, its people have well-preserved its environment. I was glad I didn’t see any litters, except few when we got to the lake which our guide defended coming from open waters brought by the tide. Sohoton folks have done great job in preserving this paradise.
Our boat left riding on the morning waves – my favorite haven getting obscure as we got farther. Still I promise myself to be back again, hoping its beauty will be same as I knew her. It’s about its serenity, the vast sea, limestone cliffs, crystal waters, elusive marine life, orange skies, starry nights, singing cicadas, placid lakes and my jelly friends. My place, my refuge, my paradise…
For when God possesses the dreamer, He will mold the dream and it will be right… Verdell Davis
Like a Bootcamp
During the four-day expedition with maximum of four dives in a day, life become like a series of order – time to wake up and eat, specific time for dives, surface intervals and personal time for rest. Time management is still necessary, you don’t want everybody waiting for you when the chase boat is ready leaving. Weather is unpredictable, in a matter of minutes the waters become choppy. The departure of the three speed boats from HCA is in sequence as scheduled.
For safety, all divers in each chase boat shall descend and ascend together – so when we got into the waters on a roll-back entry, with our masks ready and regulators on, DM Wally always said, “On my count – one, two, three!” Splash! And I heard that in all my thirteen dives. 😛 Other buzzwords we had are as pleasing like, “Food is ready!” from the kitchen staff and a sumptuous buffet is before us. Or when the divers got back from the waters, you could almost hear everybody asking, “What did you see?” and what followed are passionate descriptions of the sightings.
While Venusians have explored diving and many have excelled, the Martians still dominated it. It’s not for the faint-hearted as they say. So it wasn’t strange that there were only six (Memey & Pia from Manila; Natisha from Canada; Ma’am Nana, Doc Candy and me from Mindanao) of us out of 25 diver guests. I was thrilled with the thought of being one of these special and adventurous people.
Diving is never a place for an “ooops”, definitely no errors allowed so following basic rules is purely no-nonsense. Any untoward incident may lead to end the trip, without doubt a total disaster for all of us!
Eat, Dive, Sleep, Pray & Love
We eat at least five times a day, there was such abundance of food complete with dessert – like what about ice cream in the middle of the sea? 🙂 I still have to limit my food intake though. And the dives were such like a buffet – it was my first time to have four descents in a day, really wet! And sleep is almost instant after long day of dives, no such sleeping late like when back home. Rest is all about sleep during the cruise.
I believe there’s one thing common to all of us in the boat – pray – everyone was praying for a good weather every day. Because the weather in the area can be so unpredictable, the rains and the waves may come any time. Nobody would want the cruise to be aborted due to bad weather. And we were privileged to have three priests right in our group – Fr. John, Fr. Aldrin and Monsignor Nene – so we didn’t miss the Sunday mass which was being officiated by Fr. John. It was such a deep and solemn celebration. Somehow, with three diving priests with us, there was such an assurance of daily prayers for all our safety.
The excitement of getting into the waters and breathing deep down or discovering the unknown are just coating of this incessant aquatic adventures. It’s more about passion of the marine world, the life beyond the depths – just pure love for these creatures, wondering and watching in awe all these wondrous forms of life. I know I’ll never grow tired of my dive quests, the God of the sea never seems to exhaust incredible sights in his kingdom. And as a water person, I promised myself I’ll go on diving until I grow old when my gnarled fingers could still hold and operate gadgets or my wobbly legs could still kick for my fins.
We had the opportunity to sit down in dinner with one of our co-diver guest during the cruise – one of the three “father & son” team. He chattered about all the incredible sightings we had in the reefs full of passion and have felt same sentiment with him and as if to close his little speech, he declared he loves diving. Angel and I watching him, without batting an eyelash almost in unison declared solemnly, “We too!”
One Great Dream
Two brave souls dared for this great Tubbataha dream, I know now nothing is ever extreme with one’s aspirations. All I needed was an ardent spirit, determined heart and one good friend who shared same deep passion for the great marine world. It was another living proof that God is ever faithful to His promises!
We waited enough for this mission, our ultimate trip away to a paradise not everyone has the opportunity to savor its grandeur. A world away, apart from the maze of crowded cityscape to a place of tranquility. A place where there are no structures but water everywhere, aquatic nature in all its purity.
Tubbataha – where a brave and passionate diver’s dreams come true!
Life in the Great Beyond 
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