Category: Adventures

Sagada A Drench

Sagada A Drench

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It was indeed pure blessing to be back in Sagada for a weekend sojourn, I got my tickets few weeks before the anniversary of my first visit in this quaint highland town. The green fresh surroundings, cool mountain air, friendly local, stunning spots were perfect enough to renew my spirits. Like my first trip, my longing didn’t wane a bit.

Arriving at noon after two long rides from the metro, we went straight to Yoghurt House for late lunch savoring our favorites – vegetarian pasta, green salad with tuna and vegetable rice! It was a great start, filling our hunger was mandatory for our planned events in the next precious hours. As usual, we relied how things fit our whims, lackadaisical as we like it.

Quests at Altitude

Leaving to your imagination that warm glow feeling on our afternoon walk to Lake Danum hoping to catch sunset, or the early morning rush to wait and watch the sunrise at Kiltepan, or watching the scenery as we walk to and from for Sumaguing Cave and Pongas Falls. It was all pure, breathtaking and beautiful – watching in silence and absorbing all its grandeur. It simply feeds my soul.

But I must indulge how soak I was while at altitude and not in depths, it was quite an adventure. Angel suggested for Pongas Falls months back being newly opened for tourists. Ramos, our guide said the trek is just one hour – not so far, we thought. We started to descend to a community in Brgy Ankileng, watching the rice fields beyond us, walking through narrow pathways in between houses to the Barangay Center to register. It was all greens around – rice fields alternated with vegetable patches, the mountain in lush vegetation and the forest beyond. The trek wasn’t easy, from the rice paddies dikes to the canals in the mountain cliff as our pathway. You need balance and agility or else you’ll fall to the muddy trench or the bottomless cliff! But the scenery as we went through was awesome, the green terraces were just planted and there were people working in the paddies. I always admire the ferocity, ingenuity and assiduousness of the mountain people, how they have constructed canals by the mountain cliff to serve as irrigation system for their agriculture areas. Watching the falls from afar, I was humbled how this water supply becomes a source of life for them. The people preserved and respected Pongas Falls and only few had the opportunity to view its splendor. Water person as I am, the sounds of the gushing waters revived my spirits from the scorching heat. We climbed boulders and jumped on rocks as we rushed to the foot of the falls. The cool water was just irresistible, sun drenched Angel and I wade in the waters, not minding that we don’t have extra clothing with us! Kay followed later, and we all soaked up ourselves under the sun. UP the mountains, swimming on the waters all beaming, with the place all to ourselves. C’est la vie!

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Soaking in Pongas Falls pool!

Not wanting to waste our time in the afternoon, we walked our way to Sumaguing Cave and relish once more its display of wonders. Again, engulfed in the earth’s depths and darkness we viewed varied formations alternated with ducks, climbs push, pull and jumps. Agility and flexibility was all I needed. We searched every corner of the cave and we didn’t miss the challenging spots like clinging to vertical rope for support facing the rock wall to cross to the other side for another rock ramp. There was much water, pool of cold waters- and yes, we swam and soaked up ourselves, we didn’t escape two pools waiting to immerse us on its bosom. Unlike in the falls, our dip was quick and hurried, the cold murky water was uncertain to linger on. But still, we were all dripping as we ascend and ended our exploration.

Totally in Drench

Yes, it was total saturation – in fresh air, cold foggy morning and nights, warm summer sun, unspoiled scenery and quirky adventure. Our visit to Ganduyan Museum and witnessing Saturday market was also immersing in their culture and tradition. More than that, there was flood of great food to our delight – imagine Lemon Pie House, Yoghurt House and the authentic French cuisine at the dinner buffet of Log Cabin! Right – Angel, Kay and I was totally drenched with everything in Sagada. Another unforgettable trip…

Travel Notes:

  1. The long walk to Lake Danum is about ten kilometers round trip.
  2. Dinner buffet at Log Cabin is on a Saturday, reservation is necessary – first come, first serve. An authentic french cuisine in a remote highlands, by Chef Aklay. Sitting at the Dap-ay by the bonfire after a sumptous dinner is quite relaxing.
  3. Lemon Pie House is not only about lemon pie, we were fortunate to have Blueberry Pie which is not available whole-year round.
  4. Cave Connection is about three hours while Sumaguing Cave is about two hours depending your pace.
  5. Pongas Falls was just opened in July 2011, trek requires patience and endurance.
  6. Be a responsible ecotourist, it pained me when I see litters which I did when we went to Lake Danum, Pongas Falls, Kiltepan Viewpoint and Caves.

River Rafting after Sendong

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Hurdling Class IV rapids!

I was looking up viewing the mountains, green trees and  the surrounding cliff feeling the breeze on my face, when the guide’s voice rang out, “Forward, one, two!”  Thirty eight days after Storm Sendong hit Northern Mindanao, I went river rafting alone.  There is that gnawing feeling to visit once more the long, winding river that gave fame to CdeO for the river rafting. I wanted to see how it looked now after being overrun by the flash flood from Bukidnon mountains. I wanted to know her again after she suffered and survived the violent and furious storm.  Just three days after the tragedy, I got SMS from Eco-Extreme Rafting that reservations are accepted already for rafting. Though I wanted to do it in the last days of December to beat my timelines,  my mourning for the calamity overrun my schedules.

With Patricia & Karir (Czech couple)

I was joined with Czech nationals (Patricia & Karir) in a smaller boat, after the guide convinced them to join us in the advance course.  They were originally booked for beginners, but the other group guests wanted to be in one boat all seven of them.  I found it so good, we were not crowded and we had a paddler aside from the guide!

The river bend got wider

So we started at Uguiaban bridge in Talakag, that same old feeling of rush for the rapids came again.  At first sight, there’s nothing much changes in the uppermost area but going down the bend was different.  Much of the boulders were washed away downstream and thrown on the banks, there were lot of changes in the topography.  There were areas having rapids before but now gone silent as it became deep. There were rapids that have gone smaller and were not as enthralling as before. At the river banks – houses were gone, vegetation uprooted, trees including agricultural crops were washed away.  Boulders are thrown in the banks, some portions of the river gone narrow and some got wide. Landslides can be seen in the mountain sides. We passed three bridges that was totally destroyed, undoubtedly affected the community traspo needs.  The port of starting point for beginners course was destroyed, the restaurant and entertainment facilities at the end point in Mambuaya was totally gone.  It was heart rending actually, but was grateful that the river is still vibrant – the sound of its gushing waters was too reviving. I still notice few bird species hovering the area – brahminy kite (banog or the lawin), herd of balinsasayaw and a blue kingfisher.

The resto & entertainment facilities in Mambuaya once stood here

It was consoling that the river is still life-giving, an inspiration and a wonderful landmark for this beloved city. After more than a month, the green grass along the river bank have sprouted which is a sign of hope for me.  The river will flourish once more, the tragedy forgotten  as the days roll by. The adrenaline  rush was pulsating no doubt, not only for me but also for other guests.  And what a wonderful variation when in the third to last of the rapids – in the beginners run was class IV rapids! Yes, a class IV when it was only class II before.  The guide encouraged us to hurdle it and we were enthralled!  And right, we made it with no fear but much in high spirits.  In every run, my all consuming objective is not to be thrown out to the waters – the table top and Class IV rapids was a good test. Well, it gave me a good reason to aim for the extreme course in my future runs.

Such adrenaline rush!

The never ending thrill for the white waters  will keep me coming for the gripping rapids in Cagayan de Oro river.  It’s a promise!

Snorkeling at its Best

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Jellyfish Lagoon

Being a water person, diving and snorkeling most often is my agenda in trips and being around in search for interesting sites, I can name five which I recommend worthy to explore.  Although my hunt is still on-going I’m pretty sure there are still sites to discover around the country.  I have snorkeled in these spots, and I wasn’t disappointed.  Aside of the rich marine life and idyllic setting, all these spots are off beaten.  So getting there is in itself challenging making the journey more enthralling, or would I say truly enchanting.

Wreck as reefs

5. Lusong Gunboat. Located in Coron Bay in Lusong Island, this shallow wreck is one of the large concentration of WW II wrecks in the area. Lying from the surface about 10 meters, the wreck is very visible and watching the varied colorful marine life surrounding the area is wonderful.  Most wrecks are too deep for snorkel, so having one this shallow is too interesting for non-divers.

Rich fish life in marine sanctuary

4. Marine Sanctuary, Balicasag Island.  Off the captivating Panglao Island in Bohol, it’s an eco-tourism destination and maintained by Philippine Tourism Authority (PTA), it’s a marine life sanctuary. PTA and Philippine Navy jointly promote the island for underwater sports and as model for environmental and ecological preservation. It’s about 45 minutes by pumpboat from Alona Beach. It’s ideal for snorkeling, docking at fish sanctuary, feeding fish is wonderful as fish go near you up close, viewing deep down under with corals, sponges, star fishes, colorful fishes amidst deep blue waters is so breathtaking! I always believe that there’s much beauty deep down, more than what we see in the dry lands.

Blue river!

3. Enchanted River.  This blue river is situated in Hinatuan, Surigao Sur and going there is such a long trip.  But just watching the refreshing blue waters is truly enchanting.  The marine life consists of snappers, sweet lips and rabbit fish – viewing them through your goggles or mask surrounded by its blue waters can be too mesmerizing, wondering such specie thrive in a river.  They have grown in size and number and have claimed the blue waters as their home.  Feeding them is an added attraction, at 12:00 noon as if they have clocks, they all float-up for their feeds.  Wonderful sight!

Rich fish life in Shimizu!

2. Shimizu Island.  One of the captivating islets we hopped on in El Nido, its just one of those idyllic islands with pristine white beach with a backdrop of limestone cliffs. Just stepping into the shallow waters, you can already catch glimpse of large herd of tropical fish swarming the waters.  Shallow as one meter- sergeants, wrasses, damsels and other tropical species come near, so near your hand as you feed them.  I have never such encounter with fishes so tame, they are all around swimming in swarm.  So lovely!

Stingless jellyfish!

1. Tojoman Lagoon. A hidden paradise!  Nothing could be more wonderful than swimming with the stingless jellyfish not just in tens but millions of them.  Those brown jellies in varied sizes swimming and pulsating, so near you. So incredible indeed!  So friendly, one can touch. swim and play with these slimy brown creatures..  So serene, so beautiful.  The lagoon is secretly tucked in Bucas Grande islands in Surigao Norte, comparable if not at par with Jellyfish Lagoon in Palau.

The above sites are truly worthy for a visit, so give in to your adventurous spirit and have a wonderful aqua trip.  Don’t forget your mask, snorkel and sunscreen, its real hot out there!

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Rivers, Falls, Islands

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Surigao Sur golden sunrise!

Few months back, I went south in the Caraga region to experience nature’s wonders in this remote corner in Mindanao. The trip actually was like shooting several birds with one stone – while on an official meeting, I visited three amazing spots.  Although I was reminding myself that we have work to do and it must be first things first – I was thrilled, I have wanted to visit these spots long time ago!

Surigao del Sur although still rustic in setting and often times with threatened peace and order situation has amazing wonders tucked in the rural areas.  It is dotted with islands and idyllic white beaches, has great marine life, endowed with rivers, falls and lakes.  The province is actually a remarkable destination for nature lovers, most of which are unspoiled and mysterious.

Enchanted River

I have never seen a blue river before – just this one and that’s a real wonder. It’s a remote place and the trip is long, it lies in Barangay Talisay in Hinatuan, one of the coastal towns in Surigao Sur.  Getting into the spot felt like you’re transported into another world in a different dimension, it’s a surreal experience.  Although the spot is now developed to cater tourist & visitors, the river is maintained in its original form.

Blue, blue river!

The bluish water is caused by the white pavement stone formation slanting towards the bed just like a wall.  Since it is white, the blue sky reflected just like what we see on white beaches with blue waters.  It’s about 30 feet deep, the water is salty and marine life exists.  There were sweetlips, snappers and rabbitfish which actually thrive in sea water!  This river is connected underneath with the sea, in fact there is a cave on its head believed to be direct to the deeps.  A nature’s wonder indeed!

Great for snorkeling!

Although diving is not allowed, a group of certified cave divers were granted to do exploratory dive, but it was too deep before they could reach its end – it was a bottomless pit!  The cold blue water is great for swimming, and with active fish life it is also great for snorkeling.

Tinuy-an Falls

The trip to Bislig City was also long, going through rough roads and getting into the forest – mountains, lush vegetations and hectares of untilled lands will meet you as you go your way.  From the entrance, in between is a wide clearing

Tinuy-an Falls, a wonderful gift of nature!

perhaps by nature is for people to watch its great splendor, a three-tiered falls dubbed as Little Niagara due to its wide span of cascading waters.  It was too wonderful to behold from afar, like I was engulfed in such majesty!

Rafting for the falls!

It was so natural, with cool fresh air and green backdrop.  Going to the topmost is allowed and you can wade in the waters in every tier or get a body massage from the gushing waters – feels so good.  At the ground pool, by means of raft one can get nearer the falls but the water is too rough for swimming, but the sound of fierce fall of waters is too reviving.  Discovering this magnificent falls is worth the trip!

Britania Group

This group of islands has been in my list to visit, it was pure blessing since our lodgings was in San Agustin town so we had good access to the islands.  It has a total of 24 islets – all uninhabited, but only five are commonly visited by

Summer is for blue skies, turquoise waters, white sands!

tourists.  These islets belong to Barangay Britania, a coastal community which maintained two marine sanctuaries. The municipality of San Agustin is a partner for MRDP projects and a GEF site, a municipality active in preservation and protection of marine resources.

Just one of the islands in Britania group – Buslon Islet

Although we were advised by the boatman to have an early cruise for the high tide, we left for the islands past twelve noon under the hot blazing sun!  But it was all perfect – all the three islets we hopped were with white pristine beach – Hagonoy, Naked and Buslon islands.  As it was during weekdays, the islands were all to ourselves – we swam and frolic to all our hearts content.  It was pure nature fun under the sun, surrounded with cool blue waters while watching the nearby islets. So serene, so beautiful, so wonderful!

Travel Notes

How to get to San Agustin:

CdO to Butuan  – Aircon bus at P 337.00
Butuan to San Francisco, Agusan del Sur – Aircon bus at P 142.00
San Francisco to Brgy. Britania, San Agustin – Non aircon bus at P 72.00 or P 80.00 by van

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Coron: World War II Wrecks Once More

Coron: World War II Wrecks Once More

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Coron horizons….

“I am always moved by the sight of a hull lying at the bottom of the sea.  To me, it seems that a ship in that situation has entered the ‘great beyond’, into another existence, a world of shadows.”          ~Jacques Yves Coasteau~

Coming back to Calamianes this year has been kind of melodramatic, why when I was all set to go a year ago – plane tickets paid and dive plans in place – it was cancelled to give way for another priority.  My heart sank, but it was a victory being able to give up desires over something for spiritual growth.  To appease myself, I promised to return early part of this year but again deferred and boldly set it in October.  This all-consuming passion to dive once more for the monsters keeps nagging me, my gills and fins were aching for it.  I have wanted to be in Coron once a year with my favorite dive buddy for wreck diving.

Glitches, No More?

Be careful what you wish, you might end up with it.  I gave Angel with incredulous look when he smiled and reminded me I wanted to be with him for the round trip passage to Coron – perhaps. I have prearranged plane tickets all the way to Calamian and back home to save leave from work. Well, we ended up taking the boat after our flight was cancelled and me coming back to Manila with him on the boat again.  Halleluiah – but with a price!  It’s a taboo for me to talk on here about finance issues, but I have to admit it cost me much for the penalties in changing my return flight home.

Waiting, queuing, negotiating, calls, arrangements, changing tickets, rushing to pier, and getting tickets.  It was exhaustive, but we made it though.  We were thankful we had other alternative after our flight was cancelled. It was miracle, we got tourist accommodation in adjoining bunks when the boat was filled with people.  But again, be careful….

Back to Paradise

Arriving midday with the scorching heat, I sighed with deep breath as we descend from the boat with quick steps down to the port. It was two years ago, I waited long for this homecoming.  I was smitten with Coron during my first visit, I went back three months later to explore more of its splendor.  All its wonders in the surface was indeed pristine and alluring – a perfect paradise in the last frontier.  And more enticing to me was its mysterious depths.

Blue world still, even from the wreck…

The shipwrecks in Coron is the second largest concentration of diveable World War II wrecks in the Pacific, sunk in September 24, 1944 just a year after SCUBA was invented by Sir Jacques Cousteau. .  Now almost seven decades underwater, it created vast artificial reefs as haven for varied marine species and wonderful spot for divers.  In the world, there are only two other wreck diving destinations that offer a comparable historic experience: Truk Lagoon in Central Pacific and Scapa Flow, off the Orkney Islands in Scotland. But the Coron wrecks win over these sites – it is less expensive to dive here and the water is warmer.

Coron sunset from Mt. Tapyas

As the remaining afternoon would be too short for island hopping, we dismissed the idea and opted to rediscover downtown Coron.  We walked around for over an hour and had a relaxing stop at BOG Café for coffee break, the cake & pastries were great and exactly what we fancied for our cravings! Thinking of the glorious sunset, Angel and I agreed for an afternoon climb to Mt. Tapyas – just to be fit and get away with the calories from the rich cheesecake.

Mt. Tapyas Cross

Angel was teasing me not to look tired as we passed five other groups as we climbed our way, we did the 700+ steps in 25 minutes!  We waited for sundown as we watched overlooking the town, outlying islands, calm waters and the surrounding hills. Then slowly, everything in the horizon turned reddish and golden as the setting sun ebbed down in the distance over the vast ocean. Such great splendor, it was my best sunset so far!  It was dark already when we descend, the lighted cross created a wonderful glow on the mountain top. We finished off our long day dipping in Maquinit Hotsprings  –  one thing I don’t miss when I’m in Coron.  Nothing could be more perfect than soaking in warm waters while gazing the stars above us –  it felt  so heavenly.  Famished we got back downtown to try Old House Resto, we ended having dinner in candle light as there was no electricity! We both love the food at the Old House. 🙂

Descend, Descend, Descend!

Thinking of additional three wrecks to explore thrilled me, arriving later as scheduled gave as another surprise – Irako Maru is in the list for our dives!  It was a perfect sunny Sunday as we cruised for over an hour northwest for our first descend, together with other six divers – all foreigners just like in my previous dives.  It seemed that divers from all corners of the world came unceasingly for these historic wrecks.

Holes and rusted bars of wreck

We took the giant step for our entry splashing the cold waters, I can’t wait to see Irako described as the longest and deepest wreck in the area.  We hold on to the bouy line as we descend slowly, it was all hazy until we catch glimpse of some solid form.  DM Nonoy briefed us to stay only outside and may penetrate some lighted portion.  He motioned that we go ahead of the others, the silts might be stirred and we would see nothing.  Admittedly, I was distracted of the monster I barely noticed the marine life around.  This large ship can not be explored in just one dive, at 147m long covering the whole stretch was impossible!  It has been literally stripped of anything – it is now mere skeletons. It is now a bare vast metal encrusted with hard corals and brownish rust.  We swam around a bit and reluctantly got back to the bouy line when our DM motioned for it.  As we slowly ascend having the safety stop, a large school of jackfish appeared nearby.  I went to take a closer look but sadly I went back deeper, which made me to do again for the three minutes safety stop.  It was a short dive at 36 minutes with 32.2m as my deepest.

Graceful flatworm floating before us…

We cruised shortly for our next site and had our early lunch as our surface interval.  Olympia Maru aka Morazan Maru is another new site to me, it was another large ship slightly smaller than Irako.  We hold on again for the bouy line as we descend directly on its port side as it was lying on its starboard side. Some kind of a wide surface, we found holes both square and round ones.  Feeling that familiar rush to get inside and explore its dark secrets!  We floated slowly as if flying careful not to stir the silts, felt so wonderful.  I challenged myself as we got into a small square hole for smooth entry and just flow inside like the waters. Following our DM as we penetrated and searched for something lurking in the dark corners, but not forgetting to make sure Angel was just around nearby. We spotted lionfish, scorpion fish, juveniles, a puffer and camouflaging colored clams.

A peacock lionfish!

The big cargo rooms and boiler rooms allows penetration and we practically roam around passing chambers going up and own and back again. Rusted bars, big iron wheel perhaps for the boilers and we saw the hole damaged by bomb strikes which disabled the ship.  The ray of light penetrating inside gave some interesting effect inside the dark rooms. I practically ignored my dive computers flashing signals, I just need to make most of my time down but covering the whole stretch of 122m is again impossible.  We finally headed for the bouy line to stabilize our depths, alas I needed a deco stop and was penalized for 8 minutes – first time so far! But with still more than 100 bars of air I had no worries, I had a total bottom time of 58 minutes with 24.4m as my deepest.

The ship mast encrusted with corals and rust

Our last descent was at East Tangat Wreck situated southwest side of Tangat Island in the  Bay, the wreck lies listing to starboard down a sandy slope.  It is a shallow wreck  in fact it was near the shores, I catch a glimpse of its end while our dive boat moored for our surface interval.  We had rounds and passed by rusted bars and few chambers, its mast is now covered with hard corals and brown rust.  We spotted sponges, hard and soft corals, crinoids and sea grasses clinging on bars. We spotted too at least four specie of colorful nudis – lavender, blue, white with orange antlers, and another bluish

Taking shelter in the wreck

crawling on the corals. There was flatworms, graceful lionfish, clown fish, sea squirts, bat fish and spade fish.  The marine life was wonderful enough for photos but again I got distracted with the wreck. We ascend after 49 minutes with 16.8m as my deepest.  All my residual air were still more than 100 bars in my tank for all three ascents.

Patience and Obedience in One

Last year was a test of obedience in pursuing my dive trips – plainly no Tubbataha and no Coron. Now, I know why. Just two months later after my Coron fiasco, the Tubbataha dream was answered unexpectedly! Surely it pays to wait and obey, and even with some glitches we made it to Calamian.  My trip this year was filled with treasured memories, new discoveries and new learnings.  It might be awhile before I can return but deep in me there is always that desire to exhaust the remaining wrecks in Coron waters.  They say, do not go for a trip like seeing 20 countries in a 30-day tour. Now, I say do not go for safari dive trip in Coron for you will miss to savor the beauty and mystery of these awesome monsters. Exactly why I am not in a rush…

Exactly why Angel and I still have reasons to be back in Calamianes, who knows it might be sooner!

NB.  Underwater photos courtesy of Angel, using his Olympus Tough 8000 with PT 045 as casing.

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