Category: Adventures

Sohoton Weekend: Brief, Clandestine, Wonderful

Sohoton Weekend: Brief, Clandestine, Wonderful

cbartazo
Serene horizon…

Seize this moment now, as there might be no chance next time…

Coming to Sohoton is always a joy and even how brief and quick my hop few days back it was a great way to welcome summer and a refreshing break from work. After two months I was back, but this time with Angel after three years when he first came to Butuan and Surigao to catch glimpse of Northeast Mindanao. It was some kind of homecoming especially that he wanted to dine at Margie’s for his cravings!

On the Move

Although it meant long road trip for Angel, he decided to have his entry and exit point in Cagayan de Oro which I was grateful as I have a companion during the rides. So after three hours of sleep on Friday night and sneaking from home, our escape started too early when we catch the 330am King long bus for Butuan, and after more than five hours took another bus and at noon reached Bad-as, Placer with the rains constantly pouring on our way. Thankful that the summer sun is brightly shining while at Bad-as, we waited for more than an hour before the van left to Port Hayanggabon in Claver, with our boat already waiting. Watching the blue waters and feeling the fresh air as we drove along the coastal towns gave a spirit lift wanting to reach my haven sooner. We rode the afternoon waves cruising to the islands, and as if to welcome us the waves kept splashing on us and gave a shower of salt water on our skin. It kept us swinging as we drew near with smiles on our faces, but halfway the waters cleared and we sped off straight to Cinnamon. The POs cottage had been prepared ready to embrace us for the remaining precious hours in my little paradise.

Dusk at Port Hayanggabon

Not wanting to waste time, we rushed off with our guide Reggie to Marka A Island, a rock mountain islet in green vegetation surrounded with blue waters with small patch of beach. Angel and I wanted to freshen our gills as it’s been four weeks since our last dive. From our yellow small boat, we jumped off to the waters to swim and snorkel, indeed we were not disappointed. The sandy slope was decorated with variety of corals – most are table corals in different colors and sizes punctuated with variety of fish species. Trumpet fishes, Moorish idol, damsels, anemone fishes, pipefish. Sweetlips, fusiliers and lot more. A bluish boxfish wiggling its way from us, he hid away down the corals as it noticed us following him. We drifted with the late afternoon current as we watched the scenery below us, as we swam shallower we caught glimpse of striped fish in herd camouflaging as one big fish, then a pair of trumpets attacked them and they scattered but grouped back again, the poor herd was bullied at least twice. We swam to the small white beach as the waters getting colder joining other people there. We lingered for some time in the shallow waters with the orange horizon beyond as the day’s sun ebbed down.

Watching sunset with its crepuscular rays while on the waters…

One Night Magical

It was getting dark when we rushed back in our refuge in Cinnamon, only kerosene lamps illumined the place creating a warm glow in the dark. As usual the singing cicadas cutting the stillness of the night, coupled with the waves in the nearby shore was all the audible sounds you have in the island. Our nipa & bamboo cottage was just perfect for a good night’s rest without doubt, it was such ideal for unwinding after a long week at work. Our sumptuous dinner of fresh and organic food under the canopy of stars with fresh sea air in candlelight was just lovely! Something that is very rare in the city. And finishing it off with fresh cinnamon tea, felt like one fresh pot was not enough for me and Angel, after we tried concocting it with honey, and later with calamanci extract! We enjoyed too the company of PO staff who seemed to accommodate every wishes we had. Retiring for the night was all we need after a long day with lack of sleep, our fresh linens seemed to beckon. Imagine sleeping with open windows, cicadas singing, waves rolling with the stars above, then few fireflies inside our cottage hovering up – rare sight on summer months! This is what living in rural setting is all about – so natural, organic and unaffected – away from the complexities of city life. Unending stories until we drift off to sleep….

Water, Water Everywhere

Nothing is refreshing than waking up with gentle sea breeze blowing and sounds of rolling waves nearby, with the morning twilight in the horizons. We need to start early to make most of our time but not without getting an idyllic breakfast near the shore. Watching the horizons, while sipping our cappuccino – again in candle light. C’est la vie! The hopeless romantic in me was completely absorbed in such opulence feeling like were in a beach villa overlooking the shore.

Green waters and lush green vegetation

Our visit to the islands was not complete without seeing our jelly friends, it was our first stop for the day, we sped off to the reception center and transferred on a small banca. We paddled our way with our guide, that same placid lagoon that housed million of stingless jellyfishes. But to our dismay, it wasn’t on its peak yet, only few of the brown jellies were matured and the rest of the population was still too small. By estimates, they will be full grown by June yet – somehow they were affected by climate changes, perhaps. We got off from the banca to snorkel for awhile, playing few of the jellies that came near us but again to our dismay, the guide told us to be back on the boat. Swimming with the jellies was not allowed anymore! The swim was brief but perhaps enough for now…

It started to drizzle when we sped off to Sohoton Cove, the tide slowly subsiding. It always gave me that sense of wonder every time passing that opening for the cove. It’s intriguing that under the semi-cave shade, one could hardly get the chance to explore the entrance with the fierce currents, the deep blue waters mesmerizing. Variety of plants grew on the rock islets – iron wood, pitcher plant, agoho tree and more species that can survive on rocks rather than soil. Our first stop was the Hagukan Cave which was indeed snoring when we got there. The vacuum inside gave that sound as the water wasn’t low enough yet, the entrance still almost covered with water. Angel and I jumped off, and a guide led me to swam deep and got inside, I was gasping when I float up! We linger for a moment and swam inside feeling the cold and warm waters.

Entrance to Hagukan Cave

We sailed next to Magkakaub Cave catching two boatful of tourists, Angel all beaming suggested for the jump – which was precisely the reason for getting there. We went last from the other guests, but rock climbing in the cave seems easier now after some time of doing it again and again. But alas – I still have to gather the courage to jump which I did eventually, and even for Angel! The great splash was too liberating – I will do it again and again until I still have the strength to climb for the cave exit. J I still wanted to swim but we were such in a rush for lack of time. We sailed back for our return with the rain pouring – as if some great blessing was poured on us from heaven!

The cottage was in full motion when we got there preparing for guests on lunchtime, we just need to freshen up and pack although my heart wanted to stay longer. We went nearby with Roldan to gather some fresh cinnamon barks, the island is blessed with these trees scattered around and which they utilized as welcome drink for guests. Our fresh buko was ready, but choose to have it during our meals. I wanted to slow down as our stay nearing its end – how pathetic we barely had twenty hours in the islands! Our sumptuous lunch glued us for some time on our table – the fresh fish, the soup, the buko – everything delectable and natural to our liking.

Leaving Home

The Bucas Grande group has been a home for me and Cinnamon is exactly the spot where I can relax and be comfortable like my first home. I can snorkel and swim in the waters just few steps from the cottage or I can just laze around in the small patch of white beach or simply sit on the porch and watch the endless horizon beyond. It is an environmentalist’s dream.

We rode the waves on our small boat under the blazing noon sun, but promising myself to be back again in its bosom to explore more of the islands – like that elusive cave that traverse to another barangay or even to try diving in its turquoise waters. And just like when we come, the sea water flashing gave us some shower as if to bid bye. Our brief stay was incredibly uplifting and wonderful and I was wishing I could have stayed for another day. Surely, there are reasons to be back again in Sohoton.

Notes:

Sohoton National Park is a protected area – terrestrial or coastal. The communities within the Bucas Grande islands are organized – fisherfolk, women, youth – duly registered. These rural groups were recipients and partners in community-based resource management program for coastal communities. SAVE Sohoton, the PO which run the cottage and coop store in Cinnamon, is one of them.

Sohoton in a Day

Sohoton in a Day

cbartazo

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

It always brings joy to me to be in Sohoton, I used to come during summer months when weather is bit considerate and the park full of action. Unexpectedly I was transported into this remote islands for work, I was thrilled in a way though I know the objective is not about carousing in the waters.  The past week was indeed incredible, after a wonderful Sagada weekend I went straight to Bucas Grande islands.

Setting aside one day after a bloody workshop, with my workmates we explored the islands.  Although I have wanted to visit my jelly friends in Tojoman Lake, it was nil. They were not in season yet.  Everything was in a rush but was able to fit in with our time schedule. It was without doubt a wet trip.

We explored Bolitas and Crystal Caves after descending from Tiktikan lake, got scratches after I came out from Bolitas. Only then I knew that only five people are allowed inside due to low oxygen supply inside. We sailed then to La Fortuna, a small patch of white beach under the coconut trees.  The turquoise waters was irresistible and as if the sea water wasn’t enough, we walk a bit and immersed ourselves in the lake.  We rushed off to Cinnamon for lunch, swam again in its waters and hop on a floating raft enjoying the surrounding vista.

We burped after a sumptuous lunch and not wanting to waste our time, we rushed off to Sohoton Cove making most of the low tide.  I was transported again into another world, like my first visit I’m still  mesmerized in awesome wonder.  Exploring Hagukan and Magkakaub Cave was an adventure for my mates, it required courage and endurance especially for non-swimmers. But it was worth all their effort, there wasn’t  similar wonders they visited like the cove.  The day ended up with another swimming in Marka A Island – white beach, turquoise waters, marine life. It was all to ourselves!

The sun and sea water on my skin and the sea air in my lungs gave me much pleasure.  Simple things that gave simple joy.There was that sense of well-being that made me spring back to life. The orange horizon in the dusk and the cicada singing reminded me that the day was over.  For awhile it was enough, but I will be back soon…

Sagada A Drench

Sagada A Drench

cbartazo

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

It was indeed pure blessing to be back in Sagada for a weekend sojourn, I got my tickets few weeks before the anniversary of my first visit in this quaint highland town. The green fresh surroundings, cool mountain air, friendly local, stunning spots were perfect enough to renew my spirits. Like my first trip, my longing didn’t wane a bit.

Arriving at noon after two long rides from the metro, we went straight to Yoghurt House for late lunch savoring our favorites – vegetarian pasta, green salad with tuna and vegetable rice! It was a great start, filling our hunger was mandatory for our planned events in the next precious hours. As usual, we relied how things fit our whims, lackadaisical as we like it.

Quests at Altitude

Leaving to your imagination that warm glow feeling on our afternoon walk to Lake Danum hoping to catch sunset, or the early morning rush to wait and watch the sunrise at Kiltepan, or watching the scenery as we walk to and from for Sumaguing Cave and Pongas Falls. It was all pure, breathtaking and beautiful – watching in silence and absorbing all its grandeur. It simply feeds my soul.

But I must indulge how soak I was while at altitude and not in depths, it was quite an adventure. Angel suggested for Pongas Falls months back being newly opened for tourists. Ramos, our guide said the trek is just one hour – not so far, we thought. We started to descend to a community in Brgy Ankileng, watching the rice fields beyond us, walking through narrow pathways in between houses to the Barangay Center to register. It was all greens around – rice fields alternated with vegetable patches, the mountain in lush vegetation and the forest beyond. The trek wasn’t easy, from the rice paddies dikes to the canals in the mountain cliff as our pathway. You need balance and agility or else you’ll fall to the muddy trench or the bottomless cliff! But the scenery as we went through was awesome, the green terraces were just planted and there were people working in the paddies. I always admire the ferocity, ingenuity and assiduousness of the mountain people, how they have constructed canals by the mountain cliff to serve as irrigation system for their agriculture areas. Watching the falls from afar, I was humbled how this water supply becomes a source of life for them. The people preserved and respected Pongas Falls and only few had the opportunity to view its splendor. Water person as I am, the sounds of the gushing waters revived my spirits from the scorching heat. We climbed boulders and jumped on rocks as we rushed to the foot of the falls. The cool water was just irresistible, sun drenched Angel and I wade in the waters, not minding that we don’t have extra clothing with us! Kay followed later, and we all soaked up ourselves under the sun. UP the mountains, swimming on the waters all beaming, with the place all to ourselves. C’est la vie!

P1010561
Soaking in Pongas Falls pool!

Not wanting to waste our time in the afternoon, we walked our way to Sumaguing Cave and relish once more its display of wonders. Again, engulfed in the earth’s depths and darkness we viewed varied formations alternated with ducks, climbs push, pull and jumps. Agility and flexibility was all I needed. We searched every corner of the cave and we didn’t miss the challenging spots like clinging to vertical rope for support facing the rock wall to cross to the other side for another rock ramp. There was much water, pool of cold waters- and yes, we swam and soaked up ourselves, we didn’t escape two pools waiting to immerse us on its bosom. Unlike in the falls, our dip was quick and hurried, the cold murky water was uncertain to linger on. But still, we were all dripping as we ascend and ended our exploration.

Totally in Drench

Yes, it was total saturation – in fresh air, cold foggy morning and nights, warm summer sun, unspoiled scenery and quirky adventure. Our visit to Ganduyan Museum and witnessing Saturday market was also immersing in their culture and tradition. More than that, there was flood of great food to our delight – imagine Lemon Pie House, Yoghurt House and the authentic French cuisine at the dinner buffet of Log Cabin! Right – Angel, Kay and I was totally drenched with everything in Sagada. Another unforgettable trip…

Travel Notes:

  1. The long walk to Lake Danum is about ten kilometers round trip.
  2. Dinner buffet at Log Cabin is on a Saturday, reservation is necessary – first come, first serve. An authentic french cuisine in a remote highlands, by Chef Aklay. Sitting at the Dap-ay by the bonfire after a sumptous dinner is quite relaxing.
  3. Lemon Pie House is not only about lemon pie, we were fortunate to have Blueberry Pie which is not available whole-year round.
  4. Cave Connection is about three hours while Sumaguing Cave is about two hours depending your pace.
  5. Pongas Falls was just opened in July 2011, trek requires patience and endurance.
  6. Be a responsible ecotourist, it pained me when I see litters which I did when we went to Lake Danum, Pongas Falls, Kiltepan Viewpoint and Caves.

River Rafting after Sendong

cbartazo
Hurdling Class IV rapids!

I was looking up viewing the mountains, green trees and  the surrounding cliff feeling the breeze on my face, when the guide’s voice rang out, “Forward, one, two!”  Thirty eight days after Storm Sendong hit Northern Mindanao, I went river rafting alone.  There is that gnawing feeling to visit once more the long, winding river that gave fame to CdeO for the river rafting. I wanted to see how it looked now after being overrun by the flash flood from Bukidnon mountains. I wanted to know her again after she suffered and survived the violent and furious storm.  Just three days after the tragedy, I got SMS from Eco-Extreme Rafting that reservations are accepted already for rafting. Though I wanted to do it in the last days of December to beat my timelines,  my mourning for the calamity overrun my schedules.

With Patricia & Karir (Czech couple)

I was joined with Czech nationals (Patricia & Karir) in a smaller boat, after the guide convinced them to join us in the advance course.  They were originally booked for beginners, but the other group guests wanted to be in one boat all seven of them.  I found it so good, we were not crowded and we had a paddler aside from the guide!

The river bend got wider

So we started at Uguiaban bridge in Talakag, that same old feeling of rush for the rapids came again.  At first sight, there’s nothing much changes in the uppermost area but going down the bend was different.  Much of the boulders were washed away downstream and thrown on the banks, there were lot of changes in the topography.  There were areas having rapids before but now gone silent as it became deep. There were rapids that have gone smaller and were not as enthralling as before. At the river banks – houses were gone, vegetation uprooted, trees including agricultural crops were washed away.  Boulders are thrown in the banks, some portions of the river gone narrow and some got wide. Landslides can be seen in the mountain sides. We passed three bridges that was totally destroyed, undoubtedly affected the community traspo needs.  The port of starting point for beginners course was destroyed, the restaurant and entertainment facilities at the end point in Mambuaya was totally gone.  It was heart rending actually, but was grateful that the river is still vibrant – the sound of its gushing waters was too reviving. I still notice few bird species hovering the area – brahminy kite (banog or the lawin), herd of balinsasayaw and a blue kingfisher.

The resto & entertainment facilities in Mambuaya once stood here

It was consoling that the river is still life-giving, an inspiration and a wonderful landmark for this beloved city. After more than a month, the green grass along the river bank have sprouted which is a sign of hope for me.  The river will flourish once more, the tragedy forgotten  as the days roll by. The adrenaline  rush was pulsating no doubt, not only for me but also for other guests.  And what a wonderful variation when in the third to last of the rapids – in the beginners run was class IV rapids! Yes, a class IV when it was only class II before.  The guide encouraged us to hurdle it and we were enthralled!  And right, we made it with no fear but much in high spirits.  In every run, my all consuming objective is not to be thrown out to the waters – the table top and Class IV rapids was a good test. Well, it gave me a good reason to aim for the extreme course in my future runs.

Such adrenaline rush!

The never ending thrill for the white waters  will keep me coming for the gripping rapids in Cagayan de Oro river.  It’s a promise!

Snorkeling at its Best

cbartazo
Jellyfish Lagoon

Being a water person, diving and snorkeling most often is my agenda in trips and being around in search for interesting sites, I can name five which I recommend worthy to explore.  Although my hunt is still on-going I’m pretty sure there are still sites to discover around the country.  I have snorkeled in these spots, and I wasn’t disappointed.  Aside of the rich marine life and idyllic setting, all these spots are off beaten.  So getting there is in itself challenging making the journey more enthralling, or would I say truly enchanting.

Wreck as reefs

5. Lusong Gunboat. Located in Coron Bay in Lusong Island, this shallow wreck is one of the large concentration of WW II wrecks in the area. Lying from the surface about 10 meters, the wreck is very visible and watching the varied colorful marine life surrounding the area is wonderful.  Most wrecks are too deep for snorkel, so having one this shallow is too interesting for non-divers.

Rich fish life in marine sanctuary

4. Marine Sanctuary, Balicasag Island.  Off the captivating Panglao Island in Bohol, it’s an eco-tourism destination and maintained by Philippine Tourism Authority (PTA), it’s a marine life sanctuary. PTA and Philippine Navy jointly promote the island for underwater sports and as model for environmental and ecological preservation. It’s about 45 minutes by pumpboat from Alona Beach. It’s ideal for snorkeling, docking at fish sanctuary, feeding fish is wonderful as fish go near you up close, viewing deep down under with corals, sponges, star fishes, colorful fishes amidst deep blue waters is so breathtaking! I always believe that there’s much beauty deep down, more than what we see in the dry lands.

Blue river!

3. Enchanted River.  This blue river is situated in Hinatuan, Surigao Sur and going there is such a long trip.  But just watching the refreshing blue waters is truly enchanting.  The marine life consists of snappers, sweet lips and rabbit fish – viewing them through your goggles or mask surrounded by its blue waters can be too mesmerizing, wondering such specie thrive in a river.  They have grown in size and number and have claimed the blue waters as their home.  Feeding them is an added attraction, at 12:00 noon as if they have clocks, they all float-up for their feeds.  Wonderful sight!

Rich fish life in Shimizu!

2. Shimizu Island.  One of the captivating islets we hopped on in El Nido, its just one of those idyllic islands with pristine white beach with a backdrop of limestone cliffs. Just stepping into the shallow waters, you can already catch glimpse of large herd of tropical fish swarming the waters.  Shallow as one meter- sergeants, wrasses, damsels and other tropical species come near, so near your hand as you feed them.  I have never such encounter with fishes so tame, they are all around swimming in swarm.  So lovely!

Stingless jellyfish!

1. Tojoman Lagoon. A hidden paradise!  Nothing could be more wonderful than swimming with the stingless jellyfish not just in tens but millions of them.  Those brown jellies in varied sizes swimming and pulsating, so near you. So incredible indeed!  So friendly, one can touch. swim and play with these slimy brown creatures..  So serene, so beautiful.  The lagoon is secretly tucked in Bucas Grande islands in Surigao Norte, comparable if not at par with Jellyfish Lagoon in Palau.

The above sites are truly worthy for a visit, so give in to your adventurous spirit and have a wonderful aqua trip.  Don’t forget your mask, snorkel and sunscreen, its real hot out there!

Related articles