"Now more than ever do I realize that I will never be content of a sedentary life on the surface, I will always be haunted by thoughts of being drenched elsewhere"….
Blue spotted stingray are bottom dwellers frequently on sandy area
The bluespotted stingray (Neotrygon kuhlii) or Kuhl’s stingray, is a species of stingray of the Dasyatidae family. It is light green with blue spots. Its disk width hovers around 42 centimeters (17 in). It is popular in aquaria but usually not distinguished from the bluespotted ribbontail ray. The ribbontail is rounder with brighter blue and more vivid spots, but the bluespotted stingray is larger.[1] The stingray’s maximum age estimate is from one to eighteen years of age. The bluespotted stingray preys on many fish and small mollusks, but is also preyed on by the killer whale and hammer head shark.[2] The bluespotted stingray is also generally found in Indonesia to Japan, and south to Northern Australia. The bluespotted stingray is also targeted by many parasites such as tapeworms, flatworms, and flukes.
Our second and third dive in Bacuit Bay last June was graced by these interesting species and what a joy, it was my first up-close encounter with them. One was camouflaging on the white sands. Our DM poked it and it just hopped few steps from us, obviously not disturbed by our presence. Its disk gracefully flapped and landed peacefully on the sands again. The myth was that they can whip with their powerful tails with poison. But it appeared friendly and calmly resting, though not playful.
I relaized that Entalula Island and Twin Rocks are identified sanctuaries of stingrays, perhaps if I got the chance to dive again at El Nido in the future, I could chance upon a herd of them lining up with their pups. Then I could swim with them side by side while they flap gracefully. Just like Stingray City in the Grand Cayman!
“We will be back after five years.” – it was a promise to ourselves…
My first visit to El Nido three years back was with two reasons – to nurse my broken spirit after my mum’s demise and to fill the gap of our aborted Tubbataha 2010 plan. Discovering and diving in this quaint town was more than good enough, I came home with my light tan and twinkling eyes, that trip with my favorite dive buddy gave comfort somehow. And as if to console our selves as we left, he promised we will be back in five years and I was thinking if I would still be around after such time. Gladly, we were back not after five years but shortly, my buddy just gave in to my whims for a return this June, exactly three years from the first visit and what a joy! I was anticipating for a relaxing long weekend in this quiet town with sights like karst cliffs, mountains, greeneries, underwater life, beach and sunsets.
Simple Wishes
The trip was challenged again – confusing changes of my airline tickets, the rains and my buddy’s late arrival in PP but we made it though. Last evening flight from CdeO, overnight in Cebu, flight to Puerto, five hours wait, six hours bus ride, then I finally hit my bed almost midnight in El Nido. It was like more than 24 hours on the road! Indeed, I was wishing for an unhurried pace during the get-away.
We woke up the next morning with heavy downpour, the rains pounding the roof creating ground pools. Eager for our day’s dives I was hoping it would stop but refused to be bothered, I always considered rains as blessings. The downcast skies and showers did not prevent us in reporting to Palawan Divers at 8am as agreed. Accordingly the day’s dives were cancelled by management for safety reasons, inarguably it was logical and we trusted their judgment.
Wish granted! So our day one was all about relaxing and food galore, yes literally we hopped in three restos for all our day meals. So as a start we had breakfast at The Art Café (tuna pesto, bruschetta, fruit shakes), lingered for sometime in their breezy second floor terrace, leisurely playing sungka while having our meals. For lunch, we chose The Alternative Resto and tried mixed veggies soup and fish steak with mashed potatoes. The place is at the waterfront overlooking Bacuit Bay and so we had a good view of the overcast horizons, it was an opportunity to sit by the seascape with such gloomy mode, and it was surprising that the surrounding waters was so calm. No sign whatsoever of disturbance. We got chance to walk around town on our way home, many changes were evident – lot of lodges, inns or hotels sprouted and so with restos, cafés, spas, bistros even new dive shops now lining the street. The down town is getting a bit crowded compared three years ago, though the bucolic atmosphere is still there. Funny was, we were in our wetsuits getting around – talking of properly dressed! Our afternoon nap compensated for the previous day long trip, and we had few hours to rest and unwind until evening.
Blue skies, blue waters and serenity….
The gorgeous sunset that I wanted to view again by the bay was nowhere, downcast skies was all the way to the evening. But it didn’t stop us to walk the dark path to have our dinner at Bacuit Grill. Hadefe Cottages is in Brgy Masagana at the far end of the shoreline quiet accessible to the resto. Angel and I both loved the place, it has lovely view of sunset and night lights lining the coast in the evening. Most importantly, the food is great – we both loved the creamy shrimp spaghetti! I was imagining I was in St. Tropez (again) sitting there watching the night lights under a canopy of stars. But there were no stars this time, and the rain started to pour again after we ordered our food – and yes, we had shrimp spaghetti again with veggies salad! Bacuit Grill I think is iconic in El Nido, it was filled with diners especially evenings foreigners or local tourists alike.
Sometimes a simple wish is granted inscrutably, the poor weather turned the day as purely relaxing – easygoing and comfortably indulging us with good rest and good food.
Bacuit Depths Once More
The next morning promised bright skies despite the light morning rain, we found already other divers when we got at the dive shop and again all were foreigners – all four of them: a couple doing intro diving, one doing confine dives for OW course and one with high-tech cam doing some documentary who was joined to us with DM Doy. It was a bunch and it felt good to be back. I was glad to see DM Yoshi again and reminded him of our dives with them three years ago – amazing three long dives one sunny day which he described as crazy!
Exploring once more Bacuit in the depths
We cruised about 10 minutes to Cadlao Island – the largest island in Bacuit Bay and dropped off Ms. Abby with the OW student at Paradise Beach. We got back to the nearby Natnat Beach for our first descent unto a sandy slope decorated alternately with soft corals, crinoids and tropical fishes. Mysteriously the viz was not bad despite the previous day rains. There were rabbit fishes, sergeants, clownfish, trumpetfish, trigger fish and a herd of striped eel fish. I tried to follow a giant bat fish that came near but was so elusive. There were several specie of nudis and found some bristle worms too. We ascend after 56 mins with my air still at 100 bars.
Giant bat fish!
The sun was generous enough and brightened the skies for our dives. We proceed to Entalula Island as our next site and had our surface interval there. Our next descent was at the western side, DM Doy briefed us to go south bound halfway then swam back in same route for the boat. Rolling back for our entry we descend to a drop-off and drifted with the mild current. Tropical fishes hovered over soft and hard corals, there were damsels, puffer, triggers, trumpets and variety of anemone fishes. Then a blue spotted ribbontail ray resting on under sand crevice surprised us, but quickly hid from view disturbed by our quick movements. Our first time to spot such colorful ray, its radiant numerous blue spots and its flattened long tail with blue lines looked interesting. We found also a gray stingray resting on sand, quickly hopped nearby after our DM gently poked him. The stingrays for me were great find, absolutely. Our return to the boat meant swimming against the current which become stronger, such conditions made me cringe – swims against current are tiring! We hovered over a coral area for our safety stop, where a curious remora swam near us perhaps inspecting for a possible abode! We ascend after 50 minutes with my air at 100 bars.
Christmas tree bristle worm!
Our surface interval was spent on a patch of white beach of West Entalula for our late lunch, obviously everyone was starving, it was past 1pm already! It was a perfect setting – turquoise waters, white beach, karst and blue sunny skies. We lingered a little while until we all piled up on the boat for our next site. The DMs were aiming for Pinaglugaban Rock but as we cruised, the waters went choppy so they decided last minute for Twin Rocks which is located at the north side of Miniloc Island. It was better I thought as it would be something new to explore than the Pinaglugaban. The water was
An alligator flat head – rare find! But sorry, the blue ribbon tail and blue spotted stingray quickly hid away
indeed calm and the afternoon waters welcomed us as we back rolled for our entry. We ascend unto a reef slope with variety of tropical fishes, decorated with table corals, whips and sponges. We found two blue dotted stingray both resting on sands, it was surprising that they were not threatened of our presence, as they keep their grounds. There were yellow scadfish, sweetlips, anemone fish, pipefish and puffers. We passed by a school of transparent barracudas – another great find! At first I thought they were different specie of jacks. One more great find was a crocodile flathead, as bottom dweller it was camouflaging on the sands, I thought it was a stonefish. We ascend after 52 minutes with my air at 90 bars.
Something new – different specie of nudi
Well, we finished off the day with pasta dinner in Bacuit Grill – I guess Angel just love the place and their great food. Again, it was pouring hard while we dine but the aura of the bistro was cheerful – it was filled with tourists again. As if everyone was oblivious of the dark night and rains….
Luxury Redefined
The next morning greeted us with bright skies which what we just wanted, one more day to relax and discover the twin beaches of Nacpan and Calitang! No rushing, we wanted our last day in our unhurried pace so we left the town by mid-morning taking Tolit’s motorcab. The first-half of the roads were paved and the rest were bumpy and pot-holed, there were ongoing road works leading to next town of New Ibajay. Just like back home, I think these on-going road works are all over the country. Watching the bukid sceneries is pure joy to me, the mountains, the fields – so serene and pure. The rice fields which I believe are rain-fed in different states – few were left from last harvest, some started to plow, few had seedlings sprouted already, few are ready to plant and some have started to plant already. And I am always amused of herons gathering near the carabao in the middle of the field, some even would hop on the carabao picking its back – two contrasting colors yet in harmony – white heron on black carabao’s back! We arrived Nacpan beach after an hour, the long stretch of long beach was almost deserted and the clear blue waters decorated with waves – like beckoning us! Such luxury when all those beaches out there are crowded and filled with man-made structures.
Nacpan and Calitang Beach
The mild sun was a blessing though the sky wasn’t blue enough for the photos, the subdued sky over the horizon created an unobtrusive milieu. Angel and I found a new friend, a local dog just came over us while we’re taking refuge under the coconut trees, she lingered with us and even joined us as we tried to walk the long beach but have to get back when it started to drizzle. I remembered the pup that joined us in Daku Island.
A pink boat in the beach!
We started to walk the westward stretch, you can never miss the colossal resthouse on the beach which appeared ominous and hollow – a sharp contrast from the simple and ordinary abodes of the locals! We climbed the hill for a vantage of the two beaches – taking the higher grounds is the best way to get a good view of this extraordinary works of nature. We spotted few tourists taking photos on our way to the hill top, bit arduous and filled with tall grasses, I was wary of bee and insect stings. It was somewhat slippery due to rains. We got it to the top with the breathtaking view – extraordinaire indeed! The 360 degrees view of this little paradise was indeed soul-filling.
The scorching heat got us, we hastily got down with our guide Tolit, passing again the wide cogon grass area and almost run for the beach. We needed a quick swim, the heat and my itches were getting over me. It was all to ourselves as we swam, enjoying the turquoise waters like kids. Another luxury…
The hilltop for the grand view of this secret paradise
We were starving already, so we walked back again to the other end straight to Catian Beach. A quiet place with few beach huts under the coco trees, we had our late lunch while waiting for the fresh buko which Angel wanted. The buko was costly but undoubtedly good. 😛 One more luxury – dining at the beach front with the sounds of the crashing waves. The skies have cleared but still not blue enough for my photos. Anyway, after a relaxing lunch we had another swim at the front. The clear waters and the crashing big waves was irresistible. We swam and swam like kids and played with the big waves! I haven’t done it for a long time, I can’t remember when was the last.
To swim in this beautiful beach is an act of worship!
We finally left at 3pm passing again all the greeneries and fields, and got back to town in 45 minutes. Surprisingly shorter than going there, I think Tolits drove faster going home. We have enough time for some good rest before our long bus trip back to Puerto Princesa. For the second time, coming to El Nido is an affair for relaxing and for new discoveries. And again I am always grateful of Angel’s company during these exclusive trips.
Perhaps I will never get a chance to experience El Nido staying in Miniloc Island Resort, Lagen Island Resort or the latest addition and most luxurious, Pangulasian Island Resort but many would miss or often neglect the ordinary and simple things as opulent because it is not expensive and ostentatious. For me, the greatness of God always reveals itself in simple things, not rearranged by human hands.
I may not be back to this quaint town again but I’m taking all these beautiful memories to heart. Yes, it’s another affair to remember.
Travel Notes:
1. There are lot of dive shops now in El Nido but I prefer Palawan Divers, we paid P 3,600.00 per head for three boat dives, including DM, BCD & reg, lunch and marine conservation fee. Enriched air would cost P 300.00/tank, certification is necessary.
2. Aside from vans, El Nido can be reached also by Roro aircon bus at P 425.00/pax; reservation is needed to get a sure seat especially if you have a flight to catch in Puerto Princesa.
3. Skin care essentials – sunscreen, tapis or hat. If you head for Nacpan, don’t forget insect repellent to protect from sand flies. I’m still suffering from bites allergies after four weeks!
Morning horizons in Biri! The bluish outline of Mt. Bulusan afar.
Coming to this quiet, remote island in Northern Samar off the coast of San Bernardino Strait was whimsical at first, having discovered a diving shop that just operated in the locality. With a manifold of dive destinations visited across the islands, we are now in search of secret and unknown sites, again it would be more interesting to uncover new spots. Most likely there would be more stories and amazing discoveries, in most cases unchartered waters mostly reveal unspoiled underwater life.
Initially it was randomly targeted to visit Biri in CY 2012 but erratic schedules and other pursuits deferred the trip until summer of 2013, so May would be ideal according to Angel since Samar is a typhoon path being front in Pacific Ocean waters. Indeed, we were blessed with good weather during the four-day trip.
Spending a Wednesday night at the airport, taking an early morning flight to Catarman, taking a jeepney to Lavezares, and after haggling with the dispatcher took the one-hour cruise to Biri. You will not miss the white big statue of Jesus and St. Peter on the water as you sailed out of Lavezares. Shortly, the waters went choppy but as we went between a strait, mysteriously it went flat. The patches of white beaches, the coco trees, blue waters and the clear, sunny skies were so welcoming. Nearing the town as it loomed before us brought smiles in our lips. It was just a little past of 10:00am when we finally arrived in our lodgings at Biri Scuba Resort.
Into the Rocks
Exploring the town was the most logical thing as we have more than enough time for the day and the sunny weather was just perfect. Dismissing meals we left for the Rock Formations through a hired motorbike under the scorching heat. Our guide cum transpo driver advised us to take advantage of the low tide so we need to leave sooner. We started off at the farthest end at Magasang, passing the area over a cemented foot path I haven’t seen any agri production lot except for the scattered coconut trees covering even the hills. Riding on motorbike over the wide green horizons, the winds just made the heat bearable – I can hear Angel behind me humming a song. 🙂
Rock formation at sea side
The Biri Rock Formation is declared protected area under RA 7586, preservation of the area is mandatory and thankfully the LGU laid out the necessary regulations. So we need to stop at the parking area and walk all the way to explore the formations to the sea coast. We walked, climb, descend, wade water pools and hike further as we viewed Magasang, Magsapad and Makadlao Rocks. Unique formations which left one wondering how astonishing works of nature are, and I always end up going back to the Lord of Creation. Soaking up under the sun actually is a violation on my part but summer is all about sun! I remembered my friend in Lubbek, Belgium who mentioned that using an umbrella during summer is definitely crazy, stares and sneers surely got you!
Blue waters and blue skies!
Going to Bel-at needs our transpo so we got back to Magasang where we have left off the motorbike, our guide told us that the half-way bridge to the formation is a new structure, barely six months old. It has a shed or hut on its end ideal for picnic. I was wondering why it was not a whole stretch to the formation – budget issues perhaps! Magasang area has been planted with mangroves which according to our guide is about ten years past, many wasn’t full grown and stood like seedlings on the waters. The wooden walk-way to Bel-at is much longer winding along the mangroves ending up at a wide clearing leading to a tidal pool. We found large group of people on a picnic, some swimming on the pool. Further we explored going to Caranas, we found few tidal pools on the way. Going to the sea side, the waves keep splashing the rocks, definitely there were no patch of beaches in the area. It was disappointing that the area wasn’t spared of trashes, so bad we didn’t bring our net bag we could have done some clean-up.
Unto the Depths
Mound filled with soft and hard corals
The next morning gave us a wonderful sight in the horizons, early mornings create clear skies free from clouds, which gave us a blue outline of Mt. Bulusan and far yonder, the majestic Mt. Mayon! Our dive guide suggested for an early trip to get away with the current, there was no definite site to explore depending on water situation. It was an exclusive dive for us, judging from the dive guide prattle, very few came to Biri to dive. We aimed for the Managtuka Sanctuary as our first site, just off the coast of the town. We sighted two large herd of dalagang bukid just few meters from our boat, surely the area has active fish life. We entered the waters but it was unfortunate that my regulator had leakage, we aborted our descent. We explored instead the Managtuka Rocks while the boat got back to the shores for another set of gear.
Three nudis in one spot!
Exploring the sanctuary was dismissed due to currents as it was late already, so we sailed off to the other side of the island fronting the Pacific hoping the waters would be manageable. The water was flat and blue perfect for a dive, we agreed to have the first descent in Cogon – a surfing area of the island during habagat season, obviously the site is only dive-fitting during summer months. We descent to a slope filled with hard and soft corals, sea weeds is dominant making the area looked like green forage lot. There wasn’t much fish life although juveniles hovered over corals and the perennial nemos over sea anemones. We sighted three nudis on same spot, giant clam and more of the sea weeds. The area looked like green hills all over, a different kind of terrain. We ascend after 56 minutes with my air still at 140 bars.
Fresh sea weeds, anyone?
We sailed and anchored at Magasang for our surface interval, being in the Pacific side is an advantage as we got the view of the formation in a different angle on a wider scale, which I understood can only be done in summer months. Only few encounters of fishers on their banca, obviously the nearby water was all to ourselves to explore. Watching the nearby formations, coco trees dotting the hills and blue waters under sunny skies, was perfect – good enough while waiting for our next descent.
Giant clam amidst vibrant corals
Back rolling in our small boat was pitiful but being exposed to such similar conditions before was no trouble at all, we descend on slope once more decorated with soft and hard corals. We swam further passing those mounds again, in search of reef sharks our dive guide brought us to a short tunnel. Further inspecting crevices and sandy hollows under rocks but there was none, going through the holes is quite interesting for me! The sea weeds are still all over, alternately with soft and hard corals. We ascend at Masapad formations after an hour with my air still at 90 bars. Our boat captain searching for us not expecting to cover such distance.
My buddy’s tank was falling off!
Different locations with different discoveries, perhaps not ostentatious but definitely Biri’s unspoiled depths did not disappoint us, beyond the rocks is a wide marine garden with healthy corals and plants. The surrounding waters has rich marine life, we encountered a boy previous afternoon carrying with him a string of tropical fish – rabbit fish, sergeants, fusilier, sweet lips and moray eel from spear fishing! Well, I could have wanted to see them in their habitat swimming coyly before me.
Travel Notes
1. There are only three commercial lodgings in the island: Glenda’s Hotel, Villa Amor Hotel and Biri Scuba Resort; electricity in the town is only 12:00 noon to 12:00 midnight.
2. Boat fare from Lavezares to Biri Island is P 50.00/pax but you need to wait for the boat to be full; if you are in a hurry, boat hire will cost P 300.00
3. Environmental User’s Fee is P 50.00/pax; local fixed rates of habal-habal is prescribed by Local Tourism Office but if you need to hire for your own transpo needs to the rock formations – P 700.00 for 2 pax including tour guide
4. Diving in the island is best during summer (March to May) and sans the full moon – the tides and currents can be erratic and time adjustments is necessary to dive in certain sites. Only Biri Scuba Resort offers diving in the island. There are more than 20 diving sites including those off San Bernardino Strait.
5. If you need to get a good view of all the rock formations, rent a boat and explore by the waters for them all lined up in the pacific side – Magasang, Magsapad, Makadlao, Puhunan, Bel-at and Caranas.
Life in the Great Beyond 
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