"Now more than ever do I realize that I will never be content of a sedentary life on the surface, I will always be haunted by thoughts of being drenched elsewhere"….
A natural pool tucked in Magpupungko Beach in Pilar, Siargao Island. It is a tidal pool exposed only during low tide, one of the deep crevice along the shore covered with waters during high tide but creates a jade green wide waters when the tide subside, perfect for swimming and snorkeling. It’s deepest part is about 18 feet on low tide. While swimming you can get the view and sound of the crashing waves to the shore, creating an infinity effect. Rock formations abound nearby, the largest of which is the Mapupungko Rock – a diamond shape rock sitting on top of flat rock as if suspended for some time before rolling off.
Just one of the nature’s wonders in Siargao Island!
A small islet in General Luna with white beach filled with coco trees, granite rocks and stunning view beyond. Small enough to walk around in barefoot, crystal blue waters to swim to your heart’s content. An ideal spot to relax and watch the sunset to end a wonderful day!
The pristine Bounty Beach south of Malapascua Island. Dreaming to be back here to explore again the depths of the island, for that elusive Thresher Shark at Monad Shoal!
Before my page would gather cobwebs, I am writing this account as we had finally explored the depths of main island Camiguin. We had our original schedule in May but chose over the transplantation works in the Linamon Project, catching the last Saturday of the month when my dive buddy came over. Now, I just thought it was an important moment, not only because we finally explored these coveted sites, it was the birthday trip of my favorite dive buddy!
We did the usual routines on our weekend trips – Friday dinner, packing-up gears, four hours sleep, early bus drive and sleepy ride to the site. I was grateful our DM suggested for lodgings near the sites to save time and costs, it was comfortable enough and not costly. We took the jeepney from Benoni port to Mambajao as suggested again by our DM, than taking the costly motorbike ride, then finally took the tricycle to Barangay Agoho. We were biding our time just like in our previous travels, just allowing things fell into its place as it was still early.
Lava rocks in Old Vulcan
In our first descent, from Brgy. Yumbing, our boat brought us to Old Volcano site – the spot where the fierce eruption of the Vulcan transforming the island what it is now today. Navigating through blue waters against the green mountain ranges for about 30 minutes – it was an exclusive dive for us. The rustic Camiguin always fascinated me – it was pretty sunny and just perfect for the much needed dives, it’s been twelve weeks since our last dive!
Back rolling for our first descent, the cold waters refreshed me from the “summer” heat. Agreeing to limit our depths to 35 meters, we didn’t waste time going down. Boulders and lava rocks were visible though covered now with colorful corals and crinoids. We passed by in crevices, as if some kind of large cracks now covered with soft and hard corals plus variety of fish species claiming as their abode. There were sea fans in yellow, green and violet scattered in the area, one was so wide it obscured my way. Enjoying the rich diversity and making sure my buddy in sight, I inspected closely some crevices, then in complete surprise I saw the manta ray passing quickly away, but without missing its graceful flapping as in flying! Rare and wonderful. Angel and our DM was making signs and noticed it so late.
Violet seafan – so wide!
We agreed earlier to make the first two dives and take late lunch so we could spend more time at the Sunken Cemetery, I never had a close encounter of the big Cross and so the idea was just perfect. We took those small boats for rent to the marker – funny because at first the friendly bangkero was asking if we will swim to the spot! We spent the whole stretch of our surface interval at the marker dismissing hunger – for Angel’s climb on the big cross and for the endless photos. Our boat man served as our photographer, and honestly he took good shots! 🙂
Cross marker now tangled with corals
Our next descent was intriguing, I always enjoy unknown sites because there is much to explore and there is much to tell after the discovery. Sunken Cemetery has been a dream site – so near, yet so far. It was a sandy slope with more or less stable depth, never a drop-off, I guess cemeteries are normally plain. There were variety of corals in different shapes and colors, sponges, worms, crinoids and fishes – anthias, shrimpfish, lions, angels, bannerfish, snappers and more. Indeed, we found the cross markers now tangled with corals, not only two but three – the last one was when we were about to have our safety stop! All of them almost buried with the corals on them. I was hoping to find skulls and bones, but it is impossible after two centuries of the eruption. Either the remains were deeply buried in the depths, or blown into pieces or swept away with tides and currents. The spot now has now turned into a marine paradise. Finally, the discovery after five years – of the ancient part of this island! I have to hold on with Angel to keep me steady during our safety stop perhaps I was already too famished to control my ascent. My favorite buddy always knew my need with just one look!
A stonefish resting between corals
Our late lunch at Terrasi served as our surface interval for our last dive. We quickly sailed for fifteen minutes to Black Forest, a sanctuary off the coast of White Island. The sand bar still with people, enjoying the mild afternoon sun. My first sighting as we got the depths was a handful of garden eels almost half up but as soon as I got near them, they quickly disappear. There was moray eel whose mouth and eyes closed, which I found unusual perhaps it was sleepy already. There were crinoids, worms, perennial lionfish, clownfish & anthias. We caught site too of few miniature nudis, cleaner shrimp lurking in the anemones and clams. There was stonefish too, and the friendly lowly turtle swam coyly before us – well, Angel chased it again for photos! We surfaced after 54 minutes with my air still at 1200 psi.
An afterglow after our third dive!
Lacking sleep the dives sapped my energy but the three wonderful dives made me smile as I drift off to sleep. The Island Born of Fire is truly magical and I will always love this paradise. I have more than hundred reasons to come here again and again and again.
It was as a quick decision to have weekend dives in Mantigue Island and I was grateful for my mentor who is always there to cater to my requests, it was too easy for him as they opened an outlet in Camiguin Island. As my trips to the island were always with companions – with friends, family or even with work mates, this time I went alone for my much needed dives. The desire was just too great to ignore, I want to explore more and meet again remarkable creatures in the island’s depths.
Arriving Balingoan port before 6am, there was a long queue already for the 2nd trip ferry – a scene like Holy Week when all people flock to the island. But it is still summer, so it’s not unusual that many people will cruise for the official summer destination in Northern Mindanao. My DM with instructions from my mentor was picking me up at Benoni port so there wasn’t much to arrange but be on board on the earliest ferry available.
Revisiting Mantigue Island
Decades ago, this island seemed so remote and in the late eighties DA people recoil from the mere mention of this place. We lost lives during a project visitation with no less than the head of the regional office, it was a traumatic incident not only for those who witnessed the tragedy but also for the whole Department. The story is now hidden in the past, just recently the island has been developed and now a nature park of LGU Mahinog – which is a commendable undertaking of the local government.
The colorful anemone fish in pairs never fails to attract a diver
Our first descent was a shore entry on the sanctuary going west, the shallows were covered with sea grasses until we went deeper on a sandy slope. The reef was covered with soft and hard corals, invertebrates and had an active fish life. Big snappers, anthias, herd of oriental sweetlips, clown fishes, damsels, angels and Moorish idols. The big frogfish was a real big bonus! After 56 minutes we wade back into the shallows fro our interval, having 29.3 m as my deepest.
The large frogfish was a surprise!
We wade back again for our next descent going east of the sanctuary, the site is indeed blessed with marine life – nemos, sea stars, anemones and corals even on the shallows. The reef was decorated with sea fans, crinoids, basket sponge, colored soft corals, sea cucumbers, variety of anemones, finger leather corals. I was hoping to encounter again the large school of jacks, but only few was in view and quickly went away. My DM caught sight of a turtle, we tried to follow her but shy away. We swam back into the shallows after 67 minutes having 28m as my deepest.
The lowly turtle is always a friend!
My last descent for the day was in Black Forest, so the small boat brought us to the other side of the island, at past 2pm the waters started to be choppy. It was a sandy slope alternately decorated with hard and soft corals with variety of fish species around – boxfish, puffer, anthias, angels again, snappers, sand perch, goatfish. I lingered for few minutes on wide coral area with colored fishes hovering on top – lovely sight! My dive computer gave me flashing signals, I got erratic profile and have to maintain my depth for awhile. We swam until we got back to the sanctuary and ascend after 61 minutes having 26.2m as my deepest.
Giant clams can also be found in the sanctuary
Camiguin on the Surface
One thing I love with this island is that it has still maintained its laid-back atmosphere and the locals are always friendly. It’s good to be alone as I got to discover new things, now I know that it’s not expensive to get around as tricycles can be your mode of transportation in going down town. The next morning from the diveshop in Catohugan, Mahinog I went to Mambajao for two rides which only costs P 20.00. From the church after attending mass, I walked around to look for a Vjandep outlet (for the famous pastel) near the market. I walked again under the noon sun and asked around where to get a tricycle back, I was told to turn the next corner and the terminal was just under the big old acacia tree! Far cry from previous trips where I was with groups, we need to hire transportation which was some kind of expensive or if work-related, we would request from our local counterpart.
Pure, laid-back and idyllic….
That same old charm I love in Camiguin is still there, it’s one of those local destinations that never ceased to fascinate me. And now with easy access for my dive quest, I sure will be back again. There are more sights to discover in the depths!
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