Category: Travel

Sohoton Weekend: Brief, Clandestine, Wonderful

Sohoton Weekend: Brief, Clandestine, Wonderful

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Serene horizon…

Seize this moment now, as there might be no chance next time…

Coming to Sohoton is always a joy and even how brief and quick my hop few days back it was a great way to welcome summer and a refreshing break from work. After two months I was back, but this time with Angel after three years when he first came to Butuan and Surigao to catch glimpse of Northeast Mindanao. It was some kind of homecoming especially that he wanted to dine at Margie’s for his cravings!

On the Move

Although it meant long road trip for Angel, he decided to have his entry and exit point in Cagayan de Oro which I was grateful as I have a companion during the rides. So after three hours of sleep on Friday night and sneaking from home, our escape started too early when we catch the 330am King long bus for Butuan, and after more than five hours took another bus and at noon reached Bad-as, Placer with the rains constantly pouring on our way. Thankful that the summer sun is brightly shining while at Bad-as, we waited for more than an hour before the van left to Port Hayanggabon in Claver, with our boat already waiting. Watching the blue waters and feeling the fresh air as we drove along the coastal towns gave a spirit lift wanting to reach my haven sooner. We rode the afternoon waves cruising to the islands, and as if to welcome us the waves kept splashing on us and gave a shower of salt water on our skin. It kept us swinging as we drew near with smiles on our faces, but halfway the waters cleared and we sped off straight to Cinnamon. The POs cottage had been prepared ready to embrace us for the remaining precious hours in my little paradise.

Dusk at Port Hayanggabon

Not wanting to waste time, we rushed off with our guide Reggie to Marka A Island, a rock mountain islet in green vegetation surrounded with blue waters with small patch of beach. Angel and I wanted to freshen our gills as it’s been four weeks since our last dive. From our yellow small boat, we jumped off to the waters to swim and snorkel, indeed we were not disappointed. The sandy slope was decorated with variety of corals – most are table corals in different colors and sizes punctuated with variety of fish species. Trumpet fishes, Moorish idol, damsels, anemone fishes, pipefish. Sweetlips, fusiliers and lot more. A bluish boxfish wiggling its way from us, he hid away down the corals as it noticed us following him. We drifted with the late afternoon current as we watched the scenery below us, as we swam shallower we caught glimpse of striped fish in herd camouflaging as one big fish, then a pair of trumpets attacked them and they scattered but grouped back again, the poor herd was bullied at least twice. We swam to the small white beach as the waters getting colder joining other people there. We lingered for some time in the shallow waters with the orange horizon beyond as the day’s sun ebbed down.

Watching sunset with its crepuscular rays while on the waters…

One Night Magical

It was getting dark when we rushed back in our refuge in Cinnamon, only kerosene lamps illumined the place creating a warm glow in the dark. As usual the singing cicadas cutting the stillness of the night, coupled with the waves in the nearby shore was all the audible sounds you have in the island. Our nipa & bamboo cottage was just perfect for a good night’s rest without doubt, it was such ideal for unwinding after a long week at work. Our sumptuous dinner of fresh and organic food under the canopy of stars with fresh sea air in candlelight was just lovely! Something that is very rare in the city. And finishing it off with fresh cinnamon tea, felt like one fresh pot was not enough for me and Angel, after we tried concocting it with honey, and later with calamanci extract! We enjoyed too the company of PO staff who seemed to accommodate every wishes we had. Retiring for the night was all we need after a long day with lack of sleep, our fresh linens seemed to beckon. Imagine sleeping with open windows, cicadas singing, waves rolling with the stars above, then few fireflies inside our cottage hovering up – rare sight on summer months! This is what living in rural setting is all about – so natural, organic and unaffected – away from the complexities of city life. Unending stories until we drift off to sleep….

Water, Water Everywhere

Nothing is refreshing than waking up with gentle sea breeze blowing and sounds of rolling waves nearby, with the morning twilight in the horizons. We need to start early to make most of our time but not without getting an idyllic breakfast near the shore. Watching the horizons, while sipping our cappuccino – again in candle light. C’est la vie! The hopeless romantic in me was completely absorbed in such opulence feeling like were in a beach villa overlooking the shore.

Green waters and lush green vegetation

Our visit to the islands was not complete without seeing our jelly friends, it was our first stop for the day, we sped off to the reception center and transferred on a small banca. We paddled our way with our guide, that same placid lagoon that housed million of stingless jellyfishes. But to our dismay, it wasn’t on its peak yet, only few of the brown jellies were matured and the rest of the population was still too small. By estimates, they will be full grown by June yet – somehow they were affected by climate changes, perhaps. We got off from the banca to snorkel for awhile, playing few of the jellies that came near us but again to our dismay, the guide told us to be back on the boat. Swimming with the jellies was not allowed anymore! The swim was brief but perhaps enough for now…

It started to drizzle when we sped off to Sohoton Cove, the tide slowly subsiding. It always gave me that sense of wonder every time passing that opening for the cove. It’s intriguing that under the semi-cave shade, one could hardly get the chance to explore the entrance with the fierce currents, the deep blue waters mesmerizing. Variety of plants grew on the rock islets – iron wood, pitcher plant, agoho tree and more species that can survive on rocks rather than soil. Our first stop was the Hagukan Cave which was indeed snoring when we got there. The vacuum inside gave that sound as the water wasn’t low enough yet, the entrance still almost covered with water. Angel and I jumped off, and a guide led me to swam deep and got inside, I was gasping when I float up! We linger for a moment and swam inside feeling the cold and warm waters.

Entrance to Hagukan Cave

We sailed next to Magkakaub Cave catching two boatful of tourists, Angel all beaming suggested for the jump – which was precisely the reason for getting there. We went last from the other guests, but rock climbing in the cave seems easier now after some time of doing it again and again. But alas – I still have to gather the courage to jump which I did eventually, and even for Angel! The great splash was too liberating – I will do it again and again until I still have the strength to climb for the cave exit. J I still wanted to swim but we were such in a rush for lack of time. We sailed back for our return with the rain pouring – as if some great blessing was poured on us from heaven!

The cottage was in full motion when we got there preparing for guests on lunchtime, we just need to freshen up and pack although my heart wanted to stay longer. We went nearby with Roldan to gather some fresh cinnamon barks, the island is blessed with these trees scattered around and which they utilized as welcome drink for guests. Our fresh buko was ready, but choose to have it during our meals. I wanted to slow down as our stay nearing its end – how pathetic we barely had twenty hours in the islands! Our sumptuous lunch glued us for some time on our table – the fresh fish, the soup, the buko – everything delectable and natural to our liking.

Leaving Home

The Bucas Grande group has been a home for me and Cinnamon is exactly the spot where I can relax and be comfortable like my first home. I can snorkel and swim in the waters just few steps from the cottage or I can just laze around in the small patch of white beach or simply sit on the porch and watch the endless horizon beyond. It is an environmentalist’s dream.

We rode the waves on our small boat under the blazing noon sun, but promising myself to be back again in its bosom to explore more of the islands – like that elusive cave that traverse to another barangay or even to try diving in its turquoise waters. And just like when we come, the sea water flashing gave us some shower as if to bid bye. Our brief stay was incredibly uplifting and wonderful and I was wishing I could have stayed for another day. Surely, there are reasons to be back again in Sohoton.

Notes:

Sohoton National Park is a protected area – terrestrial or coastal. The communities within the Bucas Grande islands are organized – fisherfolk, women, youth – duly registered. These rural groups were recipients and partners in community-based resource management program for coastal communities. SAVE Sohoton, the PO which run the cottage and coop store in Cinnamon, is one of them.

Perking Up at Puerto Galera

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Rich marine life

I yawned staring blankly at the airline crew doing the safety demo before taking off, I was on a 9pm flight for Manila.  It’s  a long Friday or a long week for that matter, and all I wanted was to curl up on my bed with my fluffy pillows.  But I need to go, like a fish out of water my gills were severely dried up – it’s been nine weeks since my last dive!

Sabang Once More

After a bus and ferry boat ride, we arrived a little past 9am at Sabang hoping to catch up for Isla Verde trip, but all boats have left already.  We ended up with the two remaining dives on schedule for the day within  Sabang area.  But just watching the blue waters and sunny skies, gave a spirit lift even with lack of sleep.  Nine months ago, we feasted with the rich marine biodiversity within the nearby sites.

Invertebrates abound the area

A number of divers were book for the day, so DM Guy assigned us  to the new speedboat of the resort with DM Andrew – Angel and I was glad they still remember us, later we learned that it’s rare they have Filipino clients, almost everyday  they had foreigner divers from other parts of the globe! All other divers were indeed  of different nationalities, we were joined with  a Canadian.

Our first descent was in Sabang Point planning for a maximum depth of thirty meters, rolling back for our entry I remembered what we did in Tubbataha complete with the count from our DM.  We descend on sandy slope decorated with variety of hard corals coupled with juvenile reef fishes, floating and watching the sights in silence.  It felt so good to be back in the waters!  There were damsels, sand perch, a lurking moray, blue nudi and a slithering banded sea snake – instantly we back-out a little observing its direction.  A little dragonfish was perched on sand, it was my first time to see this critter with such wing-like pectoral fins, I believed it was disturbed by our presence.  Invertebrates abound in the area – colorful crinoids and hydroids.  More nudi species, variety of anemone fishes, wrasses, anthias, damsels and more. I watched in awe a herd of yellow-tailed fusiliers hanging in mid-water, swimming in unison with same vibration in one direction.  Then over lush corals, appeared another herd of striped eel catfish wiggling its way and further, a long crocodile houndfish inched its way near the hard corals.  We hovered around a coral area for our safety stop until we ascend having a total bottom time of 51 minutes.

Striped eel wiggled before us
Striped eel wiggled before us

DM Andrew briefed us that the next descent will be at Sabang Wrecks, I guess DM Guy was taking note that we love wrecks and so the suggestion. This time we are joined with three other foreigner divers.  A short five minutes on the speed boat to the spot, back rolling again for our entry we went down on a sandy area. Our first encounter was a snake eel, with only its head protruding, its entire body buried on the sand – amazing! Very rare, since they are commonly seen on night dives.  We passed a coral area as we proceed to the first wreck, a small boat almost rotten but a good artificial reef as there many fish species now claimed it as their abode.  Juvenile fishes swarmed the area.  On our way for the second wreck, a giant moray lurking under a coral appeared before us.  A patch of coral with crinoids on the sand housed a pair of  ghost pipefish, mimicking the green feather star!  Rare sighting, but the waters was disturbed when another came near, it went cloudy.  There was a flounder – another rare sight, so elusive with its color like the sand  but with  eyes protruding, its outline appeared like an abstract.  Angel wanting to take more photos, we finned back for the ghost pipefish at the deserted sandy area just in time when the visibility cleared up.  Indeed, one need keen eyes to see more of the wondrous marine critters.

The elusive ghost pipefish

Approaching the second wreck, shiny banded bluish spade fishes appeared in view.  Listing on its starboard side, we advance for the small wreck just observing as we passed by.  The last wreck encrusted with hard corals and rust is another artificial reef, juvenile fishes swarming.  Watching variety of fishes in one area so near me was a real treat. The black frogfish and a huge swarm of sardines in blue backdrop above us coming from nowhere was a grand display of

Rare black frogfish

beauty and wonder of the depths.  We swam back shallower and passed over the first wreck which is more of a debris, unto the sandy area for our safety stop. Yet even with the last few minutes, we still had wonderful encounter with another moray, a troop of big yellow cardinals, peacock mantis shrimp and a group of pipefish. We ascend after 48 minutes bottom time with the afternoon sun still shining brightly.

Huge swarm of sardines!

Reason to be Back

Coming to Puerto Galera was another buffet of marine encounters just like our last visit nine months ago, the two dives renewed my spirit without doubt and it was another marvelous weekend with my favorite dive buddy.  We aimed for Verde Island but Sabang didn’t disappoint us, it gave us  good reason to be back again to savor more of its diverse marine life.  Long trip and lack of sleep didn’t stop us for the dive, it might be insane for some but ironically I need it to maintain my equilibrium.  And I’m sure there will be more surprises in the depths in  future trips to this booming town!

NB.  Photos courtesy of Angel using Olympus Tough 8000 with PT 045 as casing.

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Puerto Galera Galore (cbartazo.wordpress.com)

Sohoton in a Day

Sohoton in a Day

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It always brings joy to me to be in Sohoton, I used to come during summer months when weather is bit considerate and the park full of action. Unexpectedly I was transported into this remote islands for work, I was thrilled in a way though I know the objective is not about carousing in the waters.  The past week was indeed incredible, after a wonderful Sagada weekend I went straight to Bucas Grande islands.

Setting aside one day after a bloody workshop, with my workmates we explored the islands.  Although I have wanted to visit my jelly friends in Tojoman Lake, it was nil. They were not in season yet.  Everything was in a rush but was able to fit in with our time schedule. It was without doubt a wet trip.

We explored Bolitas and Crystal Caves after descending from Tiktikan lake, got scratches after I came out from Bolitas. Only then I knew that only five people are allowed inside due to low oxygen supply inside. We sailed then to La Fortuna, a small patch of white beach under the coconut trees.  The turquoise waters was irresistible and as if the sea water wasn’t enough, we walk a bit and immersed ourselves in the lake.  We rushed off to Cinnamon for lunch, swam again in its waters and hop on a floating raft enjoying the surrounding vista.

We burped after a sumptuous lunch and not wanting to waste our time, we rushed off to Sohoton Cove making most of the low tide.  I was transported again into another world, like my first visit I’m still  mesmerized in awesome wonder.  Exploring Hagukan and Magkakaub Cave was an adventure for my mates, it required courage and endurance especially for non-swimmers. But it was worth all their effort, there wasn’t  similar wonders they visited like the cove.  The day ended up with another swimming in Marka A Island – white beach, turquoise waters, marine life. It was all to ourselves!

The sun and sea water on my skin and the sea air in my lungs gave me much pleasure.  Simple things that gave simple joy.There was that sense of well-being that made me spring back to life. The orange horizon in the dusk and the cicada singing reminded me that the day was over.  For awhile it was enough, but I will be back soon…

Moalboal Weekend: Kickoff for 2012

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Family of clown fish on anemone

Squeezing my second weekend this January, I met up with Angel in Cebu – not for the Sinulog Festival but for a dive in one of our favorite site in the south of the province.  Barely ten months ago, we were in Moalboal for the glorious sardines run.  But just a day before our trip, I learned that the sardine and threshers in Pescador Island are nowhere in sight.  It didn’t dampen our spirits though, it’s been four weeks since our last dive and we direly needed to be in the waters again.

Our friends in Moalboal welcomed us warmly, DM Geom of Cebu Dive Center and the Siggelkows of Moalboal Backpacker Lodge were so helpful and provided for our reservation needs. Torsten was in town and it’s good to see them both, the lodge is like home to us.  Arriving the dive center past 11am already, our dives were arranged all in the afternoon.  It was a blessing we catch up the van almost leaving for Moalboal when we got to the terminal.

Hardly a worm!

After a hurried lunch at the Chili Bar, we geared for our first dive.  Our guide Bebet dismissed Pescador, aside from the absence of the sardines, the waters could be choppy as it was afternoon already. The weather was perfect, the sun was not scorching and was somewhat shady.  Our first descent was at Talisay Point limiting our depth to 30 meters, unto a reef wall with overhangs and crevices. It houses variety of soft and hard corals, where macros carefully camouflaged for protection.  Coral crabs, cleaner shrimp on bubble coral, reef crab, clam digger on rubber coral.  We went inside a small cave and peek on holes for electric shell, with the torch light reflections it glowed in the dark.  The wall was decorated with anemones, maze coral, staghorns, and other branching corals.  Variety of anemone fish abound in the area, sighted also balloon corallimorph, sea fans in yellow, green and brown.  A shoal of shrimpfish decorated an overhang with whips and sea ferns.  We stayed longer on a wide coral area going around until we had our safety stop at five meters, still swimming around.  We made the ascent after 57 minutes.

Large gorgonians decorated the reef

Our boat went further west for Kasai for our next descent, and after a surface time of 55 minutes, we got back unto the waters and went down directly unto reef wall with active fish life decorated with a variety of colourful corals.  There were hawkfish, buttefly, angelfish, lionfish and nudis. I needed keen eyes for the macros – a blenny on a sandy area, worms and other invertebrates. A banded pipefish wiggled away from me to the corals.  We stayed most on a wide coral area again hopping around, a large green turtle graced us but swam fast away when other group of divers chased him around.  We found a puffer hiding in between coral branch, anthias hovering on corals were abundant, sea cucumbers, sea stars, worms, anemones, scorpion fish and many more.  We ascend after 50 minutes, the cold afternoon waters left us shivering.

Vibrant soft coral with coral crabs hiding

Although we planned for three dives, we dismissed the idea for a night dive.  Our brief escape in the town with two descents in its waters was a great way to quick start our dive pursuits for the year.  The mild sun on my skin and the sea air in my lungs revived my spirits, ready for waiting tasks back home.  There is always something different in every descent, new sightings and new learnings. It was our third visit but definitely not our last – that’s pure madness, I guess!

By then, I’m still in love with Moalboal sans the sardines run, but here’s hoping that they will be back in their home at Pescador, at the right time in the near future.

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Agutayan Dives Amid Sendong

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As a tradition I went for my concluding dive for 2011, and I have every reason to rejoice. After almost three years, I’ll be coming back to the wonderful Agutayan Island off Jasaan coast, a site I was enamored in the early days of my diving. Secondly, I’ll be diving with my dive mentor exclusive after more than two years, and most importantly my favorite dive buddy is coming over to join me for our last dive of the year.  Few days earlier, the weather forecast threatened a storm in Northern Mindanao on the dates but I was keeping my fingers crossed hoping that the conditions would still allow us.

True enough, we made it to Jasaan on a Saturday morning with bright sunny skies with no trace of overcast horizon. The previous night though was  a disaster, the flash flood from Cagayan de Oro river have wreck havoc on the communities along the river bank and lowland areas, it was a total nightmare for everyone.  My dive mentor was kind enough to arrange everything for the trip though hesitant at first, knowing for sure that visibility would be affected.

Aboard the bigger and wider Sakayan, we sped off to the island about five kilometers away from the shore.  The municipal waters which has always been blue, serene and beautiful now marred with tons of debris all floating around.  Just watching heaps of floating trash, one can judge the enormous wreckage in the city only God can tell how severe it was! I had a heavy heart watching the horizons as we continue to cruise for Agutayan.

Beneath the Mess

Approaching the white sand bar, we geared up, and prepared ourselves as if we’re unstoppable, so sure to soak our dried-up gills,  it’s been eight weeks since our last dive!  Our  indomitable spirits nagging us, you know how headstrong divers are.  Mario descend first to check conditions when we got to the Sanctuary, we noticed the current on the surface. Mario appeared after few minutes informing us that the visibility and current is manageable down – halleluiah!  🙂

We descend past 11am already, as always diving with my mentor has the same old familiar feeling – so safe and comfortable, Angel and I had DM one on one.  We tried to maneuver the surface current as we reached for the bouyline for our final descend.  But just few meters down the surface, immersed in the cold waters, I totally forgot the clutters above us. We went around the slopes and had encounters of marine life, at least six turtles graced us – the last was a huge one on his back to us digging something in the reef crevice, perhaps feeding himself with some algae. He was so surprised to notice us, he scampered away and disappeared a cloud of silt before us. There were few nudis, worms, shrimps and other invertebrates, triggerfishes which we avoided for fear of attack.  There were sponges, seafans, variety of corals and tropical fishes that abound the area.  We ascend after 43 minutes with my air still at 1200 psi.

After our leisure lunch and some short nap, Mario summoned us for our next descent.  The floating debris continued to increase while the local fishermen roaming around searching what they could salvage from the waters. Our next descent was at Artificial Reefs (AR) area, where there was variety of models of these ARs – tires, concrete, steel. In variety of forms, they were planted around the sandy area, if not for these ARs now home to a variety of marine species, there would be nothing in the spot, probably no life will exist.  The area is a home too of the planted clams, now had grown in number and size.  Tropical fishes have now claimed the ARs as their home, gaily decorating the area. After having our safety stop on a shallow reef , we ascend after 55 minutes with my residual air at 1100 psi away from the boat.

Although we planned for three dives, we called it a day after the second dive.  The debris had swarmed the waters and leaving the area  late is not advisable.  Over us, we found the locals gathered many household effects from the waters which include furniture, clothing, chairs, tv set, range and many more.

Unstoppable Indeed

We arrived back in the city as if everything was in order. But how implausible it was, that we were still diving despite the storm. I learned later that on that Saturday morning under the sun, the flood continues to ravage other districts of Cagayan de Oro, while we are diving in Agutayan waters!  How foolish… Perhaps, I have been a fool since I decided to become a diver.

Angel and I couldn’t be more grateful how things were arranged perfectly for our dives.  I felt so spoiled for such gesture of God’s kindness and faithfulness.  Our year-end dive is a subtle statement of God’s abounding grace, generosity and tenderness on our part, without prejudice to the typhoon victims.   He  surely can calm the winds and the angry seas, He is unstoppable.

NB. 
Tropical Storm Sendong hit Cagayan de Oro on December 16, 2011.
Photos by Angel using Lumix TS2 with Ikelite casing.