Deeper in Albay (Part I)

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We were floating over a wide expanse of corals!

After discovering over a year ago that Legazpi has diving opportunities, I was back to explore Albay Gulf. It is not really known for scuba diving, I just thought it isn’t much exploited and it would be less crowded and I would have enough time taking it slow, down in the depths. Craning my neck looking for Mt. Mayon as my plane prepared for arrival, she was hidden by clouds even as we touched down. Seeing her countenance everyday was another inspiration for my three-day get away. I was noting mentally my to do’s for the day as I headed for my new house at Mayon Backpackers, located perfectly in the downtown area bit far from the dive shop. But going around the city all by myself was just as interesting as discovering one new place, surface or in the depths.

Morning Delights

My diveshop was too kind to arrange for my pick-up and being early had given me enough time to take it slow as I wait for my companions. Indeed, it wasn’t congested there were only two of us as their guests, I was joined to a 67 year old Japanese who just earned his certification few months back. Taking it slow as I wish!

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Bubble corals were also abundant!

We cruised shortly to our first descent, DM Almar briefly introduce the site which they called as Itom na Buya (Black Bouy) which I presumed originally marked with black bouys. Mr. Jin Masuda of Pacific Blue have mentioned that restoration of the bay is on-going but it was surprising that the area was colorful and was filled with variety of corals including wide sea fans in different hues. Although the fishes were juveniles but it wasn’t totally devoid of marine life and it looks healthy. There were bubble corals, branching corals, rubber corals, whips, ferns, and feather stars. There were occasional juvenile nudis, and we found a shrimp lurking on the coral. We ascend after 47 minutes with air at 80 bars, my deepest was 25 meters.

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There were lot of sea fans

Our second descent was in Pasig Out (there must be Pasig In!), a sandy slope which is not really far from dive shop shores. Our first sighting was a tombstone of diver who lost his life in accident while diving many years ago. It still standing there now covered with fossilized parasites. For sure, diving in Albay wasn’t something new and maybe the diver or the accident has been forgotten buried from lapse of time . Corals also abound in the area – bubbles, rubber, staghorns, spirals, seafans, whips, squirts and even crown of thorns. Although there was an area of coral rubbles the reviving and flourishing marine life is imminent. Juvenile fishes are contently hovering over corals! At noon, the waters went choppy already, not wanting to stay on the surface longer I carry my tank on my own.  We ascend after 40 minutes with air still at 100 bars, my deepest at 22 meters.

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Juveniles wiggling among the corals, marine life is obviously thriving in the area!

The view was perfectly glorious, my ascents and descents were decorated with the view of Mt. Mayon, watching her from the waters in a different angle was a unique experience! It was a great morning for our descents and my afternoon was more interesting. I had a long interval for my third dive which deserves another write-up. Taking it slow, you know! 🙂

Snorkeling 101: Whalesharks in Donsol!

Whale shark is one of my favorite specie, humongous but never harmful it is aptly called as the gentle giants. The chance of an encounter is too rare as they are deep dwellers unless you visit specific identified sites as their stations. Most importantly, the season of their occurrence must be considered. Donsol in Sorsogon is one, and it took me almost four years to push my plan, the desire was too great to ignore.

Snorkeling for me is so calming, floating on the waters and watching down the marine life vividly with my mask without holding my breath. No rushing, as I float up vertically or horizontally. Generally, I found snorkeling to be relaxing, no known pressure – just enjoy the water, the marine life, and the view!

Jump, Fin, Look Down!

After a day of wonderful dives in Legazpi, I was still in high spirits for another water adventure the next day. Angel joined me in this tryst again, the drive was smooth but we arrived past 7am already at the Tourism Center. It was fortunate, Pacific Blue referred me to a Butanding Interaction Officer (BIO) and I believe he was a good find.

It was already past 10am, when our boat left for the search and I wondered what took us long. We were joined with four foreign nationals – three gals and a guy – we were a bunch! 😛 I guess the Tourism Office joined us with good swimmers, as we signed up as diver & swimmer, so the long wait! We head for the open sea and indeed, there were many boats already when we got there. All boats roaming the area, some people floating on the waters. I was thinking if the whalesharks would ever appear with all those turbulence!

We keep roaming for over an hour and everybody got bored already, until our spotter signaled and our BIO motioned to prepare. The instruction was if he shouts Rock n Roll!, we must all jump to the water with the boat still moving! Fine, but my concern was, what if I get to the machine propeller as I swim! We all lined up sitting side-by-side at the bow preparing for the jump and adventure. Well, we had four jumps during the three-hour search!

The first sighting was ecstatic – at first I swam so fast when the BIO told us to look down, there it was – a humongous fish moving in grace. Directly over it about five meters, I swam and followed her until it disappeared. It was amazing! Everybody was thrilled.

The second one was real big, about 10 meters. Swam directly over her in whole stretch, it was another fining vigorously fast. It wasn’t long when it outdone my race, but I watch it again with pure admiration. The BIO called her “Kulot” due to its curly dorsal fin.

Next was a smaller one, at first I had her side view and saw her opening her wide mouth! Then swam with it again viewing it in full stretch.

The last butanding sighting was another big one, it appeared just fifteen minutes before the boat left the area. It swam fast when we caught glimpse of her, then swam quickly in opposite direction to see her in full, swimming with grace

Indeed, snorkeling with the butandings requires agility and endurance and some sort of reckless abandon. When I did my jumps, I forgot about safety and finned with all my strength to swim fast not knowing the exact direction! Finding the butanding and watching its splendor, I wanted to stop and just gaze in amazement and absorb its beauty. Just like what we did in Tubbataha. But it wasn’t like that, I need to fin more to accompany and synchronize its moves, so as not to lose the butanding quickly. The momentum evokes energy and strength for the rigors in swimming with the gentle giants. It was worth it, it was really worth it!

Notes:
It was in March 1998 that Donsol became world-class tourist destination and now known as the “Whale Shark Capital of the World”. Interaction with the whale sharks is regulated by the local Department of Tourism (DOT) office. WWF guidelines are generally observed to protect the sharks. Rules include limiting the number of swimmers per boat to six, no scuba divers and staying further than three meters from the sharks.

Swimming with whale sharks, locally known as “Butanding”, was featured as the Best Animal Encounter in Asia by Time Magazine in 2004. Whale sharks can be seen between November and June, with presence peaking between February and May.

NB. Sorry my uw cam was totally useless, swimming too fast I can’t get a chance for a snap! The above whale sharks were  sighted in Talisayan, Misamis Oriental during our dive lessons in May 2007, courtesy of MADRI.

Bucas Grande A Drench!

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Talisay was my refuge in my homecoming

Three years. Since I last came in this group of islands I called my second home.  Not really long, but I have promised to be back again.  I have missed its tranquility and stillness. There are so many issues at the back of my mind that needs to be soothed by pure serenity, as if to disconnect. I randomly decided to be home once more.

Coming here is always a wet pursuit but I love the waters, its turquoise and emerald  surroundings always gave me a warm welcome! Again, the hop was just brief but it was some kind of a retreat.

Jellyfish Lagoon

This is my favorite spot and I always come here to visit my jelly friends.  Last time there was none,  it was fortunate they were around, although it was not yet in full season, but its good to see them again. Swimming, floating, pulsating on the emerald waters. 🙂  I can’t help being with them, but you need to be careful not to disturb them. Just float and swim without flinging one’s limbs – the proper way to interact with this invertebrate.  So soft, so gentle – I simply love them!  I scampered up the boat when Brandon (my boatman) begged me to come up when he noticed other guests are coming. Swimming with the jellyfish is not allowed anymore!

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I can’t imagine how our boat maneuvered getting inside Sohoton!

Caving in Sohoton

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Hagukan Cave can only be viewed by swimming down and holding breath for at least 10 seconds!

The two caves inside the cove are worth coming again but you must need to be comfortable in the waters.  It was new moon when I got there, so the waters movement was quite slow and even if it was low tide, the waters are still up but the good thing is,  current was almost non-existent.  🙂  If you have entered Hagukan before, you knew about the rock in the middle of the lagoon, where you could stand to rest from swimming.  Well, it was too deep to stand on, it was floating and swimming all the way!

Magkakakaub Cave is another challenging – rock climbing and that big splash to the Water! I came in here more than five times, in those instances I can walk  inside without soaking my body but this time I was swimming inside. It was amazing how it could change with the moon’s movement!

Beaches

Time was too short but I still managed to hop in Marka A Island, it was swimming and lazing in its small patch of white beach under the noon sun, in the end I took refuge under a cavern from the scorching heat while watching the horizon.  Lastly, I went to Cinnamon Island (my home in my last visit) for my sumptuous lunch with Raffy and Director Bulabong (of DILG). I enjoyed the seafoods, the buko and the home-made biko! Dining al fresco watching the blue horizons was just perfect.  🙂

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The water front of Cinnamon Island!

Nothing much has changed since I knew Bucas Grande in terms of Structures.  Well, there are new Lodging Cottages and Huts, but still of indigenous materials.  The park and its waters have maintained its cleanliness, mainly because the community manage it and everyone takes part in its preservation and protection! 🙂

Home It Is

The community always welcome me even how short the notice was – DA always arrange everything with no fuss. My boat has been waiting several hours before I arrive at Port Hayanggabon. Roldan, Raffy, Renan, Jun-jun, Brandon, Chelyn were just few who would be willing to sit for some leisure talk and dine with me even if they have other chores to do.  Most importantly, I can laze around to all my heart’s content. The wide horizons, the orange sky, the cicadas, the roaring waves and the dark nights. Just immersing myself with simple things that give pure joy.

It was another drenching visit in my home, which was purely cathartic to me.  And I will be back again, it’s a promise.

Travel Notes

1. Vans going to Port Hayanggabon, Claver is available at Bad-as, Placer. Multi-cab/jeep also can be found at Surigao City bus terminal.
2. Last trip boat (public utility) from Port Hayanggabon to Socorro town is 4pm.
3. Consider the Moon cycle when visiting the islands, tide and current movements should not be taken for granted.
4. Lodgings with generator have electricity  6:00pm to 12:00 midnight only.
5. Cellphone signal which is not necessary actually, is almost non-existent!
6. When you visit Bucas Grande, please patronize the community-managed lodgings in Cinnamon Island, SIFAI, Green Cove and Titktikan Lagoon. Always arrange your visit to the island through the local tourism unit.

 

Life in the Islands!

P1050172There is only stillness and serenity.

Orange skies, sound of cicadas and the placid waters reflecting sky hues are simple signs that another day has ended.  I can sit all alone watching the horizons until darkness engulf the scenery.  Then a sparkling light in the distance from fishers going their way or the occasional fireflies in summer nights.

Home. There is only stillness and serenity…