Five Years Diving: From Blue Skies to Blue Seas

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I sank gently to the sand. I breathed sweet, effortless air.  The sand sloped down into a clear blue infinity.  The sun struck so brightly I had to squint. My arms hanging at my sides, I kicked the fins languidly and travelled down, gaining speed, watching the beach reeling past.  ~Jacques Yves Cousteau~

Sinking down gently…

I will never forget the feeling.  A sense of excitement, mystery, apprehension, awe and unbelievable reality came upon me as I got into the diving gears for the first time. The sunny blue skies and the blue waters in Balingoan is a witness as she engulfed me in the depths. That was five years ago when I came alone for my open water diver course.  Since then, it has been a journey and I’m still on the road.  Now, I want to pause and step back a while for some reflections as I reached my fifth year enjoying one of my greatest love and exploring the amazing underwater world.

As Professor Trevor Norton said, “Once you have a taste of the ocean, the intoxication lasts a lifetime.”  Indeed, I never felt such sense of equilibrium after I got into diving, it’s something deeper – it brings a sense of privilege seeing a magnificent display of nature in the raw – in an amazingly separate world – underwater.  Diving has changed me in many ways, life wasn’t the same after I became a diver.

In Two’s

Two years later after I got utterly fascinated floating in the deep blue, I took my open water diver course in 2007.  It took me that long to decide as I know I need to dive often, no doubt it is necessary and that would be too expensive, I thought.  But the desire was so great, I took the plunge.  Then another two years (2009) later when I took my advance open water course – alone again! The desire was great to acquire more skills and I found it necessary as I need to gain more confidence as I explore more of the depths.

Same rhythm, same vibrations…

Every Filipino diver’s dream without doubt is to explore Tubbataha – an underwater paradise and a marine world heritage site.  I shared such same dream with my favorite dive buddy carefully planning things, sure we did it! But again, this dream was answered exactly two years later when we committed for the plan.  And with the principle of continuing education and the concept of PADI learning system, I need to level up my certification so as not to limit my diving adventures.  Few months back, I got certified to use enriched air (EANx) two years later after my advance open water course.  Now, aiming for Rescue Diver certification with the objective to acquire the ability and skills for rescue and therefore be useful in such situation, I can only hope I got certified before the two year period would lapse!

Since diving is generally and strictly adopting the buddy system, I need a buddy whom I could be comfortable with and have aligned that same rhythm and vibrations when we go underwater, more so on the surface. I have been traveling and diving with my favorite dive buddy for more than three years now, hoping for more dives together in the days to come.

Such colorful world!

Looking back I am most thankful to two people who have been with me, two important people who inspired and gave me courage to go on and hope for the best in my diving pursuits.  My mentor, who got that enabling flair for his students in acquiring the necessary skills and confidence to make most in every dive. As a newbie, my dives was always with him – then one day, he said I must go and experience diving somewhere else – like a father telling a daughter to spread wings. I did and now exploring and learning many new things just as he said. He’s always there for my concerns and needs even until now, he’s just an SMS away – just few weeks back, he made arrangements instantly when I told him I want to dive in Mantigue Island.  And surely, my favorite dive buddy who is my companion in most of my diving trips including the Tubbataha Dive Cruise. I shared wonderful memories with him in my underwater escapades. I traveled with him often and in some ways spoiled me with all those getaways, I love it though!  I felt blessed and honored to have these two noble men who shared their time with me, cared for me and extended a hand in any way they can.

Reasons or Lessons?

I have both – they said supposedly mature adults must do things with objectivity and that sounds logical.  At first, it was quite personal – I was bitten in that one magical moment in the deep blue.  My sub-conscious kept nagging me to discover and experience such amazing underwater realm, which I could only do by strapping a tank on my back and go deep down.  I had no regrets, I’m enjoying every bit of the journey, and more importantly it gave me a new sense of balance.  On a deeper sense, I realize that this amazing marine world is in great peril as a result of man’s greed and exploitation, the whole mankind needs to save the degrading resources entrusted to us. We are just stewards, we failed and we have sinned against the Creator.  Now I know better, I have obligation to protect, preserve and enhance this last important ecosystem on earth.  It pained me to see all the atrocities of marine life done by humans who are supposedly civilized and educated as they claimed to be.

The marine world needs us!

I have much to say about lessons and my journals was filled with many accounts, indeed I have learned so much in many aspects.  There is always something in every dive trips – new friends to meet underwater, new sites to see, variety of sea creatures and new learning of characteristics and behaviors.  I learn to manage schedules and arrange trips with much flexibility without sacrificing my work obligations.  I meet people in the diving community, all of them as far as I could remember are kind, friendly and helpful – perhaps, divers belong to such breed!  I become more compassionate, undoubtedly more humbled and felt more privileged to be exploring the depths, when not all has the opportunity for such favor.

Going Places

There’s no denying the fact that traveling is part of diving, I would say I was seeing more places in the country for the last four years in quest for dive sites. It’s more than just counting  sites for my dive log but I believe diving gave one that itch in search for something new and unfamiliar or unknown.  My dive buddy and I found it exciting to uncover and unravel new sites, especially those off-beaten ones.  We learn more and bring home with us treasured lessons and cherished memories.

My deep blue world

I have favorite sites which I visited often, to name a few:  Coron in Palawan for the World War II shipwrecks, Moalboal in Southern Cebu for the sardines run and Banaug Shoal in Balingoan for its diverse marine life. And I will forever treasure my first thirteen dives in Tubbataha Reefs – it was a dream come true.  I love Apo Island, Apo Reefs, El Nido, Mantigue Island, Malapascua Island and Puerto Galera. But there are still more depths to dive right in our country, there are more to see than what I have seen.

Abounding Graces

Like a miracle unfolding, graces and blessings abound.  Indeed, finances is necessary for the trips but everything was provided, the Great Accountant was too generous. Surprisingly, arranging schedules become manageable even sometimes tough decision have to be made, prioritization becomes an art.  Undeniably, unforeseen circumstances intervene but I learned to be tough and knew that there’s  always good reasons for all events that happened along the journey.  The Lord has always lavished me with these gifts, and many times I felt spoiled with His generosity and kindness. Five years wasn’t very long but I gained so much treasures from this journey.  Cheers to the next five years!

At Work: Beyond the Surface

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Finally, the concluding phase of the transplantation project took off and the massive operations started few days back.  The stakeholders eagerly waited for the completion of the project, it has been delayed and long been overdue from its timelines. To finish it off, the one hectare nursery from the six hectares marine protected area will be transplanted with acropora corals, twenty five modules will be fully planted, approximately about 4000 pvc pipe molders will be in placed.  It’s a formidable task, as of last week they planted about 1/10 of the total target area.

Despite a long week at work, I chose to spend my weekend in Linamon for the underground work.  The desire was so great and the Lord again perfectly arranged things for the trip.  The last time I went down the area was twenty months ago when few substrates were plant-tested with acropora corals taken from the nearby area of the sanctuary.  There had been great changes after such period, I would say for the better.  The plantlets have grown and branched out greatly – the tower substrates now looked like full-grown shrub or a small tree.  The concrete substrates withstood two typhoons that hit the region during the period, which could only mean it could last long from water currents and fierce movements underwater.

On a larger scale, the socio-economic impact of this project has favorably affected the community, beginning to understand the obligation to protect the environment and the resources where they are dependent for their livelihood.  The fisherfolk association of Samburon and Magoong have unite themselves to enforce and support the ordinance for the marine protected area.

The descents didn’t just freshen my gills but in more ways renewed my hope that we still can do something to protect and enhance our degrading underwater world.  We just need to get our acts together.

Note:

Linamon is situated in Lanao del Norte, the first town after Iligan City.  The famous Tinago Falls (western bank) is under the jurisdiction of this municipality. Another Natural Resource Management (NRM) project, the Preservation and Protection of Tinago Watershed under the MRDP is also in place.

Sohoton Weekend: Brief, Clandestine, Wonderful

Sohoton Weekend: Brief, Clandestine, Wonderful

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Serene horizon…

Seize this moment now, as there might be no chance next time…

Coming to Sohoton is always a joy and even how brief and quick my hop few days back it was a great way to welcome summer and a refreshing break from work. After two months I was back, but this time with Angel after three years when he first came to Butuan and Surigao to catch glimpse of Northeast Mindanao. It was some kind of homecoming especially that he wanted to dine at Margie’s for his cravings!

On the Move

Although it meant long road trip for Angel, he decided to have his entry and exit point in Cagayan de Oro which I was grateful as I have a companion during the rides. So after three hours of sleep on Friday night and sneaking from home, our escape started too early when we catch the 330am King long bus for Butuan, and after more than five hours took another bus and at noon reached Bad-as, Placer with the rains constantly pouring on our way. Thankful that the summer sun is brightly shining while at Bad-as, we waited for more than an hour before the van left to Port Hayanggabon in Claver, with our boat already waiting. Watching the blue waters and feeling the fresh air as we drove along the coastal towns gave a spirit lift wanting to reach my haven sooner. We rode the afternoon waves cruising to the islands, and as if to welcome us the waves kept splashing on us and gave a shower of salt water on our skin. It kept us swinging as we drew near with smiles on our faces, but halfway the waters cleared and we sped off straight to Cinnamon. The POs cottage had been prepared ready to embrace us for the remaining precious hours in my little paradise.

Dusk at Port Hayanggabon

Not wanting to waste time, we rushed off with our guide Reggie to Marka A Island, a rock mountain islet in green vegetation surrounded with blue waters with small patch of beach. Angel and I wanted to freshen our gills as it’s been four weeks since our last dive. From our yellow small boat, we jumped off to the waters to swim and snorkel, indeed we were not disappointed. The sandy slope was decorated with variety of corals – most are table corals in different colors and sizes punctuated with variety of fish species. Trumpet fishes, Moorish idol, damsels, anemone fishes, pipefish. Sweetlips, fusiliers and lot more. A bluish boxfish wiggling its way from us, he hid away down the corals as it noticed us following him. We drifted with the late afternoon current as we watched the scenery below us, as we swam shallower we caught glimpse of striped fish in herd camouflaging as one big fish, then a pair of trumpets attacked them and they scattered but grouped back again, the poor herd was bullied at least twice. We swam to the small white beach as the waters getting colder joining other people there. We lingered for some time in the shallow waters with the orange horizon beyond as the day’s sun ebbed down.

Watching sunset with its crepuscular rays while on the waters…

One Night Magical

It was getting dark when we rushed back in our refuge in Cinnamon, only kerosene lamps illumined the place creating a warm glow in the dark. As usual the singing cicadas cutting the stillness of the night, coupled with the waves in the nearby shore was all the audible sounds you have in the island. Our nipa & bamboo cottage was just perfect for a good night’s rest without doubt, it was such ideal for unwinding after a long week at work. Our sumptuous dinner of fresh and organic food under the canopy of stars with fresh sea air in candlelight was just lovely! Something that is very rare in the city. And finishing it off with fresh cinnamon tea, felt like one fresh pot was not enough for me and Angel, after we tried concocting it with honey, and later with calamanci extract! We enjoyed too the company of PO staff who seemed to accommodate every wishes we had. Retiring for the night was all we need after a long day with lack of sleep, our fresh linens seemed to beckon. Imagine sleeping with open windows, cicadas singing, waves rolling with the stars above, then few fireflies inside our cottage hovering up – rare sight on summer months! This is what living in rural setting is all about – so natural, organic and unaffected – away from the complexities of city life. Unending stories until we drift off to sleep….

Water, Water Everywhere

Nothing is refreshing than waking up with gentle sea breeze blowing and sounds of rolling waves nearby, with the morning twilight in the horizons. We need to start early to make most of our time but not without getting an idyllic breakfast near the shore. Watching the horizons, while sipping our cappuccino – again in candle light. C’est la vie! The hopeless romantic in me was completely absorbed in such opulence feeling like were in a beach villa overlooking the shore.

Green waters and lush green vegetation

Our visit to the islands was not complete without seeing our jelly friends, it was our first stop for the day, we sped off to the reception center and transferred on a small banca. We paddled our way with our guide, that same placid lagoon that housed million of stingless jellyfishes. But to our dismay, it wasn’t on its peak yet, only few of the brown jellies were matured and the rest of the population was still too small. By estimates, they will be full grown by June yet – somehow they were affected by climate changes, perhaps. We got off from the banca to snorkel for awhile, playing few of the jellies that came near us but again to our dismay, the guide told us to be back on the boat. Swimming with the jellies was not allowed anymore! The swim was brief but perhaps enough for now…

It started to drizzle when we sped off to Sohoton Cove, the tide slowly subsiding. It always gave me that sense of wonder every time passing that opening for the cove. It’s intriguing that under the semi-cave shade, one could hardly get the chance to explore the entrance with the fierce currents, the deep blue waters mesmerizing. Variety of plants grew on the rock islets – iron wood, pitcher plant, agoho tree and more species that can survive on rocks rather than soil. Our first stop was the Hagukan Cave which was indeed snoring when we got there. The vacuum inside gave that sound as the water wasn’t low enough yet, the entrance still almost covered with water. Angel and I jumped off, and a guide led me to swam deep and got inside, I was gasping when I float up! We linger for a moment and swam inside feeling the cold and warm waters.

Entrance to Hagukan Cave

We sailed next to Magkakaub Cave catching two boatful of tourists, Angel all beaming suggested for the jump – which was precisely the reason for getting there. We went last from the other guests, but rock climbing in the cave seems easier now after some time of doing it again and again. But alas – I still have to gather the courage to jump which I did eventually, and even for Angel! The great splash was too liberating – I will do it again and again until I still have the strength to climb for the cave exit. J I still wanted to swim but we were such in a rush for lack of time. We sailed back for our return with the rain pouring – as if some great blessing was poured on us from heaven!

The cottage was in full motion when we got there preparing for guests on lunchtime, we just need to freshen up and pack although my heart wanted to stay longer. We went nearby with Roldan to gather some fresh cinnamon barks, the island is blessed with these trees scattered around and which they utilized as welcome drink for guests. Our fresh buko was ready, but choose to have it during our meals. I wanted to slow down as our stay nearing its end – how pathetic we barely had twenty hours in the islands! Our sumptuous lunch glued us for some time on our table – the fresh fish, the soup, the buko – everything delectable and natural to our liking.

Leaving Home

The Bucas Grande group has been a home for me and Cinnamon is exactly the spot where I can relax and be comfortable like my first home. I can snorkel and swim in the waters just few steps from the cottage or I can just laze around in the small patch of white beach or simply sit on the porch and watch the endless horizon beyond. It is an environmentalist’s dream.

We rode the waves on our small boat under the blazing noon sun, but promising myself to be back again in its bosom to explore more of the islands – like that elusive cave that traverse to another barangay or even to try diving in its turquoise waters. And just like when we come, the sea water flashing gave us some shower as if to bid bye. Our brief stay was incredibly uplifting and wonderful and I was wishing I could have stayed for another day. Surely, there are reasons to be back again in Sohoton.

Notes:

Sohoton National Park is a protected area – terrestrial or coastal. The communities within the Bucas Grande islands are organized – fisherfolk, women, youth – duly registered. These rural groups were recipients and partners in community-based resource management program for coastal communities. SAVE Sohoton, the PO which run the cottage and coop store in Cinnamon, is one of them.

Perking Up at Puerto Galera

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Rich marine life

I yawned staring blankly at the airline crew doing the safety demo before taking off, I was on a 9pm flight for Manila.  It’s  a long Friday or a long week for that matter, and all I wanted was to curl up on my bed with my fluffy pillows.  But I need to go, like a fish out of water my gills were severely dried up – it’s been nine weeks since my last dive!

Sabang Once More

After a bus and ferry boat ride, we arrived a little past 9am at Sabang hoping to catch up for Isla Verde trip, but all boats have left already.  We ended up with the two remaining dives on schedule for the day within  Sabang area.  But just watching the blue waters and sunny skies, gave a spirit lift even with lack of sleep.  Nine months ago, we feasted with the rich marine biodiversity within the nearby sites.

Invertebrates abound the area

A number of divers were book for the day, so DM Guy assigned us  to the new speedboat of the resort with DM Andrew – Angel and I was glad they still remember us, later we learned that it’s rare they have Filipino clients, almost everyday  they had foreigner divers from other parts of the globe! All other divers were indeed  of different nationalities, we were joined with  a Canadian.

Our first descent was in Sabang Point planning for a maximum depth of thirty meters, rolling back for our entry I remembered what we did in Tubbataha complete with the count from our DM.  We descend on sandy slope decorated with variety of hard corals coupled with juvenile reef fishes, floating and watching the sights in silence.  It felt so good to be back in the waters!  There were damsels, sand perch, a lurking moray, blue nudi and a slithering banded sea snake – instantly we back-out a little observing its direction.  A little dragonfish was perched on sand, it was my first time to see this critter with such wing-like pectoral fins, I believed it was disturbed by our presence.  Invertebrates abound in the area – colorful crinoids and hydroids.  More nudi species, variety of anemone fishes, wrasses, anthias, damsels and more. I watched in awe a herd of yellow-tailed fusiliers hanging in mid-water, swimming in unison with same vibration in one direction.  Then over lush corals, appeared another herd of striped eel catfish wiggling its way and further, a long crocodile houndfish inched its way near the hard corals.  We hovered around a coral area for our safety stop until we ascend having a total bottom time of 51 minutes.

Striped eel wiggled before us
Striped eel wiggled before us

DM Andrew briefed us that the next descent will be at Sabang Wrecks, I guess DM Guy was taking note that we love wrecks and so the suggestion. This time we are joined with three other foreigner divers.  A short five minutes on the speed boat to the spot, back rolling again for our entry we went down on a sandy area. Our first encounter was a snake eel, with only its head protruding, its entire body buried on the sand – amazing! Very rare, since they are commonly seen on night dives.  We passed a coral area as we proceed to the first wreck, a small boat almost rotten but a good artificial reef as there many fish species now claimed it as their abode.  Juvenile fishes swarmed the area.  On our way for the second wreck, a giant moray lurking under a coral appeared before us.  A patch of coral with crinoids on the sand housed a pair of  ghost pipefish, mimicking the green feather star!  Rare sighting, but the waters was disturbed when another came near, it went cloudy.  There was a flounder – another rare sight, so elusive with its color like the sand  but with  eyes protruding, its outline appeared like an abstract.  Angel wanting to take more photos, we finned back for the ghost pipefish at the deserted sandy area just in time when the visibility cleared up.  Indeed, one need keen eyes to see more of the wondrous marine critters.

The elusive ghost pipefish

Approaching the second wreck, shiny banded bluish spade fishes appeared in view.  Listing on its starboard side, we advance for the small wreck just observing as we passed by.  The last wreck encrusted with hard corals and rust is another artificial reef, juvenile fishes swarming.  Watching variety of fishes in one area so near me was a real treat. The black frogfish and a huge swarm of sardines in blue backdrop above us coming from nowhere was a grand display of

Rare black frogfish

beauty and wonder of the depths.  We swam back shallower and passed over the first wreck which is more of a debris, unto the sandy area for our safety stop. Yet even with the last few minutes, we still had wonderful encounter with another moray, a troop of big yellow cardinals, peacock mantis shrimp and a group of pipefish. We ascend after 48 minutes bottom time with the afternoon sun still shining brightly.

Huge swarm of sardines!

Reason to be Back

Coming to Puerto Galera was another buffet of marine encounters just like our last visit nine months ago, the two dives renewed my spirit without doubt and it was another marvelous weekend with my favorite dive buddy.  We aimed for Verde Island but Sabang didn’t disappoint us, it gave us  good reason to be back again to savor more of its diverse marine life.  Long trip and lack of sleep didn’t stop us for the dive, it might be insane for some but ironically I need it to maintain my equilibrium.  And I’m sure there will be more surprises in the depths in  future trips to this booming town!

NB.  Photos courtesy of Angel using Olympus Tough 8000 with PT 045 as casing.

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Puerto Galera Galore (cbartazo.wordpress.com)