Diving Adventures in Moalboal: A Return to Paradise

After a wonderful sojourn and matching discoveries in Sibaltan, another diving trip was put to order in June. Yes, in summer like it used to be!  For some time, I was aiming and wanted to be back in Cabilao Island but conditions were not favorable, a weekend was too short for the trip.  Our instinct just urged us and we randomly decide for our fave destination in southern Cebu.  It was almost five years since our last visit and it was like a homecoming!

Pescador Island in a distance

Just like my quirky escapes – late flight, no proper meals, early dawn bus ride – yet arrived safely in town still dark. My buddy and I realized now that Moalboal is not too far from the city, we barely had three hours on the road. After five years though, there has been lot of noticeable changes, the roads are wider paved all the way, and that old acacia tree at the junction going to Panagsama Beach is now obscured with new structures. More buses are routing to south and realistically dawn rides barely had stops along the road!  If not for the bus crew alerting us for the stop, we could have slept all along and ended somewhere else! 😊 So, we wind up at Jolibee’s-24H as our refuge while still dark, and had our early coffee there.

Just when day breaks, we hailed a trike that brought us to Ananas Guesthouse and accordingly had our much-needed nap! Just enough to freshen me up until 9am, to have my essentials for the day – my dailies and repacking of needed gears, we were expected for the 10:30am dive schedule at Savedra Dive Center.

Mystical Depths

An eye catching but very significant to divers is this slogan at the diveshop, “Some of us must live underwater.”  It brought me thinking that I can only come for a visit in an hour or so, if only that’s possible – if only…  The wall chart had our names with DM Vernel indicated Pescador Island as our first dive! We organized our gears and had my regulator for necessary check for leaks, in no time we piled up on the dive boat. We had two other divers with our DM, there are two other larger groups in our boat also heading for Pescador.  It was looming before us as we cruised towards the island, there were boats already mooring in a short distance. After the briefing, we assembled with our DM and did our giant stride entry.

See the shrimp?

We navigated south to west (yes, this route made us a full circle of the island!) with our right shoulder to the wall, wonderful critters abound – a juvenile yellow frogfish, twice we encountered stonefish – alone and a couple in another spot, a scorpionfish camouflaged between the corals, lionfish, reef fishes and few bivalves that snapped as we passed by.  Even with the devastation of typhoon Odette in December 2021, which is visible in its terrain yet still the critters thrived and have decorated the wall.  Our DM peeked on corals and crevices for micros – few nudis, coral shrimps and coral crabs were lurking on them almost invisible if not for our DMs keen eyes.  It was just so interesting searching for these tricky invertebrates, you don’t know what you find and I would always wonder that such animals exist! I wouldn’t know if don’t descend in the depths.  We went around floating weightless in silence, now and then I’d look for my buddy as it should be, to be mindful in every beat. Slowly we went up from the wall over a patch of corals, until we have our safety stop. In no time our DM deployed his SMB, I signaled Angel for our ascent.  We all assembled and boarded the boat as it got near to fetch us. I had 55 minutes with 23.8m as deepest, still with 100 bars.

Our pizza lunch was perfect as our surface interval, light but full.  We chose Veranda Kitchen & Bar overlooking the shores for some sea breeze relaxing for the next dive. 

Lunch leftover!

We promptly went back at the dive shop to prepare for the next descent checking our gears, and alas Angel’s dive computer was nowhere in sight! Our last descent as scheduled was at Ludo which was something new to us, our DM informed that the highlight of this site is the sitting Mermaid statue which sound interesting! The plan was a shore dive but, in the end, they got us unto the boat as they were going northwest and just drop us off near our site. We were separated from the large group, so it’s like an exclusive dive for me and Angel because our DM said we had low air consumption compared to others! 😊We gave up looking for the dive computer and went on.

The Mermaid

We did the entry again in giant stride, feeling the warm afternoon waters. In no time, we descend anticipating for some surprise. And there she was surrounded with some rocks, sitting quietly looking up as if waiting for someone to come and join her fantasies! We circled and lingered briefly watching her, then proceed to float silently on the sandy slope. I was glad there was no sighting of trashes, I guess the community have managed well on waste disposal and I remembered clearly in our last dive here, there were no visible trashes.  Sadly though, typhoon Odette have left damage in the coral reefs and still haven’t recovered. Visibly, it isn’t as colorful before but still we had amazing finds among the thriving corals – orange frogfish couple, nudis, anemone shrimp, banded pipefish, moray eel. The rare ghost pipefish was a real surprise too! We floated we got into a large school of scads, then finally the sardines appeared above us! I turned around, all I saw was large throng of the silvery fishes.

Sardines!

And I always find joy in the depths just floating in silence with only the sound of my breathing audible, with the sardines swimming in unison. How marvelous, nature indeed knew how to stage an amazing show! We continued floating in the midst of this trance, absorbing the beauty and wonder until slowly we ascend in the shallows. Swimming toward the channel, we remained underwater for faster navigation. It was a long swim, thankfully the current was just manageable. I kept near especially that Angel don’t have his dive computer.   Finally, we emerged up very near the shores right in the dive shop channel. I needed help walking back to the shop, and luckily, I still had the strength to carry my gears on my own!  I went 66 minutes at 19 meters as deepest, still with 70 bars of air.

Well, the tiring part again was the after dive care of the gears, in our final packing Angel’s dive computer suddenly was found in the corner which put smiles on our faces! 😊 We finally left after things settled walking back leisurely to our lodgings about kilometer away.  I watched sunsets here and even laze around at White Beach but it’s different now as we’re stationed distant from the shores.  Still, Moalboal will always be a favorite go to for my diving escape.

More sardines!

Unwritten Rule

Somehow, our after-dive tradition is to have decent dinner, to compensate for spent energy but mainly to celebrate the good dives, wonderful sightings, good weather and meeting randomly new faces who were kind to us.  To be thankful for this wonderful gift of exploring the depths, not everyone had the opportunity to do so. In my life tapestry, diving is a thread that adds vibrancy and warmth of my being.

Panagsama is now filled-up with lot of establishments not to mention restos and bars lined up along the road, in the night it became a rowdy tourist setting. We settled that evening at Blue Mango Bar after an assessment with others. The next morning, after meeting and thanking our French host we left for the city. We continued to splurge for a sumptuous lunch at Everyday Coffee and Tea in downtown Cebu.😊

We can only celebrate the good things bestowed, life is too short not to be grateful for His abundant graces!

NB. Photos courtesy of http://www.lakwatsero.com

Wonders in Moaboal

I am a firm believer as a diver, that the underwater has always surprises in store so that a certain spot can give one different sightings every dive. The underwater realm is a stash of dynamic organisms, today and tomorrow’s encounter is never the same. A decade of diving has taught me so, the wonders of marine life can never be exhausted.

Millions of Sardines!

Indeed, coming back again in any dive sites gave new encounters which can never be compared from the last. Let it be marine creatures, new acquaintance, locals, or even circumstances where one can reflect lot of good things are always in store in every situation. My dives this year were few, yet our destinations were undoubtedly our favorites and probably few of the best in the country.

It was a last minute decision to return in Moalboal last October, as usual I had the last word where to go as there was no previous plan. I needed to go away a little farther and it was a random choice to revisit South Cebu. We were so blessed that our arrangements went smooth – our home Moalboal Backpackers Lodge for the accommodation, and Savedra Dive Center for the dives.

Swarm of these juveniles…

Isla de Pescador

Our 5am bus trip from the city allowed us a very early arrival in town, giving us ample time to relax and prepare for the dives.  The town was all in motion as we got in Basdiot, weekends like any destinations are full and bustling with tourists.  The cheery weather lifted my spirits, forward looking for wonderful encounters during the day. We were welcomed warmly at the diveshop, the wall chart indicated that we belonged to Lyndon’s (DM) group on our first dive at Pescador Island!

Aboard the Seastar, we sped through the surf, the lowly island looming before us as we got nearer and in 15 minutes we dropped anchors.  Few boats already moored indicative of other divers ahead of us. Our DM briefed us of the current, so from northeast point we should drift to the northwest but first we need to cross against the current until the wall, navigating with our right shoulder against the wall. I informed Lyndon that I wore a brand new wetsuit and it might affect my bouyancy, he assured that he would bring extra weight in case it is necessary. And it was fierce indeed, I have always avoided swimming against current. It was exhaustive!

Watching from inside the Cathedral

Every inch beyond was filled with so much life – from echinoderms, hard & soft corals to swarming variety of fish – there was so much colours! I kept myself close to the wall as I searched for some critters just floating until we got to the Cathedral! It is a cavern with holes, and getting inside with keen eyes you were like staring a large monster face! We linger a little longer inside just watching the illuminated holes, trying to absorb its grandeur, how magnificent! There was a stonefish, giant clam, bivalves that snap as you got close, and a lot of linkia laevigata. There were turtles and we found a huge one sleeping on a crevice, while we left it alone, unfortunately another group of divers came and poke the poor animal. 😦  The wall has few caverns and lot of crevices that were undoubtedly shelter of various critters. We ended up at the northwest end of the island, actually half-circled Pescador. Thankfully I didn’t have trouble with my new wetsuit.  Maybe if we got to dive here in the future, we will reverse the route to get the full circle, without the current of course! 🙂

Sexy shrimps, can you see them?

We cruised back to mainland and while halfway on the waters, to our surprise a pod of bottle-nosed dolphins appeared and sailed alongside our boat! They lingered for a little while to everybody’s delight, until finally we sped our way to the shores with all our smiles. The warm sun, sea breeze and salt waters spraying on us was pure delight.

Sardines Shoal

Since I first came in Moalboal decade ago, we always aimed for the sardines and this trip was no exception. The house reef was listed for our second dive in the afternoon, and it was an exclusive dive for us! Our surface interval was more than enough for our quick bites and relaxed a bit longer before we got back at the dive shop, just a few meters away from our hostel.

The sardines was all around us!

We geared up excitedly but our DM changed the plan due to the afternoon current, instead of a shore dive we shifted for the boat. So, we sailed shortly to Panagsama Sanctuary and descend there and drifted for the shoal eastward immersing in the warm afternoon waters. We maintained our depth in the shallow reef along the Basdiot shores scouring the bottom for trashes. We gathered some plastic debris, thankful there wasn’t much when the area was filled with many settlers and establishments just few meters from the shoreline. In spite of this, there was much marine life in the area – sexy shrimps lurking on soft corals, ornate pipefish, nudis, lobster and juvenile frogfish! We drifted until we got into swarm of big eye scad, there was lot of them swerving and shifting direction as we moved along. There were other fish specie that came in schools also, and to my mind they knew and learned that being in cluster commanded force and they were less threatened.

I kept looking up until in an instant a dark patch clouded over us, the sardines shoal was upon our very eyes! Like a magic but for me, it’s purely mystical. I know I will never get tired watching again and again such incredible marine sight. 🙂 How majestic are His creation!

Nudibranch!

We kept floating mindful too of other fish in our midst, there were five barracudas that tried to invade the swarm but wasn’t able to penetrate at all. And how marvelous that they could go that shallow, barracudas are generally deep sea dwellers! We still linger floating until we reached the end of the stretch, Lyndon signaled accordingly to turn around and went against the mild afternoon current. Angel and I immersed much longer finning coyly with the massive sardines’ swarm above us, engulfed myself few more moments of wonder until our DM signaled for surface which we both agreed. We ended up at the front of the dive shop entrance channel. Angel helped me with my fins as we walked back to the shop with our gears on. I guess even with the current I still felt energized with such wonderful encounter, it was for me another relaxing experience with the phenomenal sardines. I could only wish they would remain to have Panagsama as refuge, shelter and home forever.

The sardines clouded over us!

We capped our day with a big dinner in Marina, yet many times our encounters for the day came into our chats until we retired for the night.

Moalboal will always be our favorite destination for diving, its wonders endlessly captivated my soul. That brought home how amazing the marine world is and why it’s worth protecting the rich biodiversity we have in the country or this planet, for that matter.

Travel Notes:

  1. Leaving Cebu City at 4:30am by bus, one can reach Moalboal before 8:00am still having enough time for 2 dives during the day
  2. Tricycle to Basdiot costs P150.00 for special trip, otherwise P20.00/pax for ordinary trip
  3. Be sure to book your accommodation and dives before heading to Moaboal to avoid trip hassles
  4. Sardines Shoal can still be encountered through snorkelling
  5. Pescador (which literally means fisherman) got its name being refuge of fishermen during inclement weather.

Carousing in Moalboal!

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Millions of sardines, the immensity is a phenomenon!

It was a quick decision to revisit one of my favorite destination in Cebu province, initially we were aiming for an offbeat town in Southern Leyte but unfortunately, the lone local dive shop was fully booked for that weekend. We made quick arrangements on our favorite hostel and dive shop in Moalboal but then again, all were fully booked. We ignored the hindrances though, coming to this favorite town southwest of Cebu was a joy. My last visit was yet in June 2014!

The last minute changes made me scrambling from a quiet lunch with friends, it was already past 2pm and everything else went as a whirlwind – tickets, packing, gears assemble, so on.  By 8pm, I was already on board the boat sailing for the night to Cebu.

Travelers always trust things will work out well as you arrived the destination, and it sure did. As long as you are open-minded and make most of what is available at hand. One last bahay-kubo was the lodge  for the night and our friend DM at Cebu Dive Center offered us one dive in their house reef for the coveted sardines run, it was good that one dive guide was available for that afternoon. The arrangement worked well and it gave us time to see other sites.  🙂

White Beach (Bas Daku)

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Got away from the crowd to get unobstructed view of the sunset!

For the many times I went to Moalboal, I never got the chance to visit the area and Torsten (of Moalboal Backpackers Lodge) described it as a wonderful spot to relax and watch sunset. It was low-tide when we got there, the shores was wide and long enough for the walk but unfortunately it was too crowded. So, we had the walk, sat at the beach, watch people, watch the sunset and in the end, had a dip and quick swim in its warm waters!  🙂

Aguinid Falls

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Therapeutic morning dip at the falls basin!

The town of Samboan is 60 kilometers away from the lodge and almost two hours bus ride, so we woke up early for the trip south. Indeed, the early bird catches the best view! There was no crowd, no noise just the sound of the gushing waters! Yes, the short walk and climbing the four levels was a sure test of agility and strength. I love the early trek and swim at its basin with the majestic falls behind us. It was a wet morning adventure!  🙂

Sardines Run

DM Cameron (of Cebu Dive Center) was just good-hearted to arrange with another diver for our afternoon dives, one dive was truly not enough for me but it was better than none considering the long trip. The afternoon waters was turbulent as it was moving for the high tides, it was hard to keep steady as we wade for our entry.  At 15 meters though, we had a grand show of million sardines. It clouded above us, as we swam coyly in the warm waters – so beautiful and surreal! It was amazing, a nature’s wonder that can not be explained.  For a time the swarm was in the deep in Pescador Island, but now it’s in the shallows right next the shores. Maybe, the fishes knew that they can survive well away from the predators. Yes, the spot is a protected area and fishing them is illegal! I knew I will get back in Moalboal for the sardines again and again.

The brief get-away was a carouse but never in a noisy and lively way as in a party, but it’s about enjoying nature’s gifts in it’s most simple, relaxed, spontaneous and unaffected way. The wonderful dive was just I needed during the Moalboal visit. After we bade goodbye to our host, we left for the city thankful that our traspo connections went fluidly.

It was late when we arrived downtown Cebu, rushing but still had enough time for a relaxing dinner at La Maison Rose.  C’est la vie!  🙂

NB. All photos courtesy of my favorite dive buddy.

Heights and Depths!

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Heights and depths are both nature’s display of its wondrous splendor!

Adventures for the intrepid can be as varied as far one can go, many travelers have become so audacious and ambitious as if motivated in conquering one goal after another.

After years of diving and continually aiming for off beaten sites, I realized there are still a lot of places around the country that needs to be explored.  I have learned so much from my travels and in many ways have gained new insights especially destinations that are closest to nature.  The rural scenery is almost and always a plethora of learning and new understanding of our culture, the environment and wide issues of protection and preservation.

There are few places that are close to my heart, destinations that are perhaps distant and advance arrangements are necessary, yet the urge to keep coming back was hard to resist.  Much that I love the depths, I am always fascinated by heights.  So that, a combination of both in a trip, is a real indulgence, actually a luxury. Climbing a peak or searching the depths is a real show of grandeur in all scheme of things!

Coron – Climb Mt. Tapyas and dive in Coron Bay

One of my favorite dive destination is Coron due its collection of World War II wrecks, the underwater museum have tickled my curiosity and I have tons of write-up about the mysterious wrecks. I was always blown away every time we penetrated the old ships, these silent monsters abandoned in the depths. My visits to Coron though, is not complete without climbing Mt. Tapyas to catch glimpse of my beautiful sunset. I guess sunsets are more spectacular to watch from a mountain top.  I would linger just watching, killing my time looking the horizons getting a good view of the changing hues.  Until the golden sun would finally ebbed down and the white cross would light up.

Tawi-Tawi – Climb Bud Bongao and dive in Bongao waters

This southern most cluster of islands in the country is not a touristy one, in fact some if not most would think twice before coming to Tawi-tawi.  Coming here was one of my most memorable trip, the discoveries were too precious to ignore.  We visited here during Ramadan and by 3:00 o’clock in the afternoon, the market was oozing with people and there was great array of food!  The locals were friendly and helpful, the town is naturally peaceful.

We climb Bud Bongao the day we arrived, we trek and were welcomed by the macaque monkeys with our banana offerings. Bud is the highest point of the province, the view was just unmistakably breath taking!  The three dives the next day was a great opportunity to explore the rich surrounding waters of the islands.  Well, the currents made it challenging! The heights and depths combination was just marvelous!

Southern Cebu – Trek Osmeña Peak, traverse to Kawasan Falls and dive in Moalboal

Well, this is actually a combination of three! The southern towns in Cebu have its own charms, so that in these three towns you have equally remarkable adventures.  Drive to Mantalungon in Dalaguete, trek to Osmeña Peak and be amazed with those peaks shaped like peanut kisses! Trek down the fourteen kilometers trail and traverse to Badian right in Kawasan Falls, rafting and taking a dip in its aquamarine waters is truly refreshing!  Stay in the next town of Moalboal and dive in its waters replete with diverse marine life. The awesome sardine’s run is too hard to resist, I came here again and again because of it.  Pescador Island is also a renowned site, the sightings here are too good to be true, mind blowing as they say!

Camiguin Island – Trek Mt. Hibokhibok, traverse to Ardent Hot Springs and dive in its waters

There a lot of reasons to be back here again and again, this island is also my favorite. It’s practically dense with nature wonders. Volcanoes, falls, hot and cold springs, islets, rich marine life and more!  Climb Mt. Hibok-Hibok, this active volcano is safe for trekking and it can be done in a day. The view in the peak is undoubtedly breath taking, but it was foggy when we reached the top. We were surrounded with white clouds, the trail was challenging at different levels.  It has a total of fourteen kilometers from Yumbing and traverse to Ardent, right in the hot spring pools!  A dip is undoubtedly a good relaxant after the arduous trek.

The island is perfect for diving – from marine sanctuaries, coastal reefs to sunken cemetery!  There’s a lot of choices and this island province is literally surrounded with dive sites in its coastal waters.  Mantigue Island is a must, so with sunken cemetery, Old Vulcan, white island and many more. All of the sites are practically filled with diverse marine life.

These are just few, I know there are a lot of destinations around the country with this ridge to reef combinations. New learning, precious discoveries and the realization that every place has its own share of wonders and the God of order have made everything in nature in accord with all scheme of things.

Heights and depths are both nature’s display of its wondrous splendor!

Moalboal Shoaltime!

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Definitely my madness of Moalboal is unrelenting, it seems I never get enough of its underwater show. For the nth time, I declare that the sardines’ phenomenon is grand spectacle and literally an iconic one. The mammoth shoal is my overriding reason for coming again and again to Moalboal, and I will never get tired of watching in awe while underwater. It is the only dive site in Southeast Asia that is home to a school of fish so immense, it provides a rare and iconic backdrop of shimmers, shadows and amazing shapes. I was in for a show as I float at fifteen meters watching above me. So stunning!

We went again for the 4th time to experience once its majestic display last June, and mutually agreed for another return for this same reason.  Moalboal is a must visit site in the Philippines and if you are after this majestic display of humongous school of sardines, don’t wait long for a trip to this southern town in Cebu. Experience this underwater Shoaltime!