"Now more than ever do I realize that I will never be content of a sedentary life on the surface, I will always be haunted by thoughts of being drenched elsewhere"….
In our recent visit in Biri Island, we explored and spent significant time in the area by chance. It was suggested by our dive guide to have our first dive spot, ideally located just off the coast of town center and if not being installed as marine sanctuary before diving came to the island, it is perfect to be as house reef of Biri Scuba Resort. I believe it was not a sanctuary for nothing.
Early morning when we got there, herds of dalagang bukid was near our boat on both sides but the dive was aborted and we stationed temporarily at Managtuka Rocks while the boat went back to shore. This clump of rocks is a sanctuary of banded sea snakes, an interesting specie albeit venomous. We climbed and peek through the granite boulders, indeed we found not just one but more than five in different sizes. They were coiled in between rocks cooling off and sleeping, one was just shedding its skin. I was sure a number of them are hidden in their chambers. It was an interesting discovery!
Sea snake sleeping in its chamber
My belief is that, those are volcanic rocks thrown away hundred years ago from Mt Bulusan which is few miles away from the coast, undoubtedly it has geological significance. Climbing up was bit slippery as I was wearing my booties so I shunned the idea, I wanted the dives more than rock climbing. The shallow pools between the side rocks was more interesting, I sat there until our boat was back for the dives.
Later in the afternoon after our two dives, we hop there again as if our descents were not enough – just love the waters! We had snorkeling hoping to get a close encounter of dalagang bukid but they were gone. There were only few of other tropical fishes, and most were juveniles. The quiet afternoon waters was perfect but we swam back to our boat after my snorkel went kaput. We stayed the rest of our time near the boat for our afternoon swim.
Siargao is named after Rajah Siagu, Si-AGU not Si-Awi, Rajah Siagu is the brother of Rajah Kolambu – king of Limasawa in 1521.
Siargao is a tear-drop shaped island in the Philippine Sea situated 800 kilometers southeast of Manila in the province of Surigao del Norte. It has a land area of approximately 437 square kilometers. The east coast is relatively straight with one deep inlet, Port Pilar. The coastline is marked by a succession of reefs, small points and white, sandy beaches. The neighboring islands and islets have similar landforms.
Siargao Island contains the largest mangrove forest reserves in Mindanao, at Del Carmen (citation needed). Long stretches of wetlands indicate a potential for commercial seaweed propagation. Siargao Island is greatly influenced by the winds and currents coming uninterrupted from the Pacific Ocean, intensified by the Mindanao current running westward through the Siargao Strait. Siargao Island is situated at a coordinate of 9°52′N 126°03′E / 9.867°N 126.05°E / 9.867; 126.05. It is composed of municipalities of Burgos, Dapa, Del Carmen, General Luna, San Benito, Pilar, San Isidro, Socorro and Santa Monica.
Offshore, a classic tropical island lies protected within its surrounding coral reef with dozens of coconut palms dressed in the center circle of the island. Off to the right, well within the massive coastal reef, lies a shining white sand bar, (Pansukian, or Naked island) some 200 meters long. The tide of Siargao is diurnal with tidal curves typically present, especially on the east coast of the island.
The Island’s Pacific-facing reefs are situated on the edge of the Philippine Trench, and the extremely deep offshore waters assure the ocean swells have undiluted power when they encounter the many coral and rock reefs. Siargao has excellent surfing conditions, particularly during the southwest “habagat” monsoon from August to November, when the prevailing wind is offshore.
Coming back in mainland Siargao(pronounced as Shar-gow) this summer has been kicking me since October last year, and I have a good reason to rejoice since the main agenda was to explore the depths. Yes, diving is now easy as a dive center have just opened in the island – it was expensive, exclusive and bit complicated in early days! I had been curious what’s in store in its waters which is few miles off the coast of Pacific Ocean, where the Philippines Trench lies on its edge. Angel and I had wanted to dive in Bucas Grande four years ago but the in-house DM of Club Tara discouraged us as there wasn’t much fish life in its surrounding waters. I was blessed that a work meeting was also scheduled unexpectedly during the planned dates, again it was like shooting two birds with one stone. I have extended my stay in the islands after the meeting and Angel took the long drive from CdeO to catch up with me at General Luna.
Taming the Waves
Enjoying the waves, with MRDP workmates – Arnel, Sam, Beboy, Rosie, Christian & Sherwin
Carousing with the waves, finally getting out of the water
It was a great ride!
My lessons with local instructor – this is paddling!
I chose this colorful board – my instructor stick with me!
Inarguably, Siargao is most known as the surfing mecca in the country and it boasts of its barreling waves especially during the “habagat” season when international competition is being held every September. Although work sked was full, I took the chance with few workmates to try surfing in Cloud 9 one early morning. As beginners, we need the lessons from the local instructors – guys with burnt skin and toned bodies! Indeed we had fun with the waves and the early morning sun, my instructor stick with me perhaps my enthusiasm impressed him in a way. I would say it’s a good form of exercise – as every part of the body need to move if not to contain balance on the board! Arms & legs for the swimming, paddling and getting on the board; eyes & ears for the waves; brain for coordination and balance – I say agility and flexibility is necessary for the rigors of surfing. At first, my ride was just squatting on the board but in the end, I was able to stand up three times – with the cheers of my friends. The one-hour lesson in ocean 101 was productive enough but I know there’s much to learn in surfing. The Dreamer said, “Someday, I will tame the waves!”
Beyond the Waves
Sorry, this is not Pagudpud or Boracay!
Indeed, the island is more than just surfing and it has its own share of white beaches, turquoise waters, and picturesque islands in a perfect rural setting with friendly locals. The Magpupungko Pool adjacent to Pilar white beach was worth another visit, despite the long ride passing Del Carmen and San Benito as there were road repairs. It was yet high tide when Angel and I got there, so we leisurely spend more time in the quiet Pilar beach while waiting for the low tide. The turquoise pool, the sitting big rock with the crashing waves at the reefs is purely magical!
Daku Island beach facing GL
The next morning we went island hopping which is nearby our lodgings, we need to do it early to get away with the scorching summer heat. Naked Island (Pansukihan – off the coast of the renowned Dedon Island Resort) was our first stop, yes our heavenly rainbow graced the horizons as we sailed along! And there was no one when we got there, it was all to ourselves which was just perfect as we went around enjoying the white sand bar. I did my beach clean-up gathering all piece of trash I found at the island. We went around the whole stretch of the beach on barefoot! We cruised next to Daku island, a larger one (as its name implies) with a whole barangay as inhabitants. It has a long stretch of white beach with turquoise waters and quite surroundings, the people were friendly
White beach and turquoise waters at Daku Island
even the puppy who accompany us on our walk on the beach. We wanted to linger more but need to rush for the last stop at Guyam, an iconic tropical island with swaying coco trees, a small patch of white beach and a bunch of geological granite rocks in its shores. It is small enough for a walk around its circumference. To finish off our morning, we headed for the boardwalk for Angel’s brief visit at Cloud 9 surfing community just in time when the noon sun showed up. The blue skies, the blue waters, the rolling waves and the soft breeze was just ideal for waves ride but we were due already at the town port with our DM.
Taste of Siargao Depths
On the dot, DM Damien was already at the spot with the white speed boat all ready for the trip. We earlier agreed for Daku Island exploration, just near and considered a local dive site. I was longing for the Blue Cathedral but Palaka Dive Center recommended for a nearer spot, currently the newly opened dive center is in its process of familiarizing the islands waters. It didn’t dampen our spirits though and suspend my excitement for the cavern in Cloud 9. The afternoon mild sun was perfect as we speed off to nearby Daku, the soft sea breeze gave us a relaxing mode for the dives. DM Damien was more of a dive instructor as we did the preliminaries, not only professional but very detailed – review of hand signals, explanation of equipments, pre-dive safety check and more detailed briefing. And I had a synchronized back-roll entry with Angel, as DM Damien instructed.
Juvenile banded sea snake! Can you see it?
Obviously, I got more conscious underwater and behave like I was having my open water lessons, DM Damien was so precise before the descent. We went down together on a slope alternately decorated with corals, taking our time as we went around. We found banded sea snakes, puffer fish, nudis, moray eel and juvenile tropical fishes silently hovering over corals. We passed few specie of groupers, triggerfish, goat fish and sand perch as we move on until we ascend after 50 minutes.
A purple nudi. Sorry, the mantas quickly flip away!
Our next descent was in southwest of Daku a little past of 4pm, immersing myself with the cold afternoon waters, I keep a reasonable distance with Angel and our DM, he was clear on this matter – he is our DM, so we must not go below, above or before him. As we made a turn on a white sandy area, a juvenile manta flip away, followed by another one just few seconds later, disappearing away. A lone barracuda graced us, with few groupers, snappers, sweetlips, and anemone fishes were sighted also. There were few nudis and more of the juvenile fishes as I passed over soft and hard corals. I stayed close to Angel during our safety stop until we surfaced after 55 minutes, far from the boat. We swam coyly as we wait for our boat to pick us up enjoying the afternoon waters. Perhaps the two dives were not comparable to amazing sites we previously explored but definitely GL waters promises a diverse marine life. Siargao depths is still a mystery to me.
Swelling Reputation
The island has been known as a surfing destination for quite some time, but now it is definitely more than swells and wet weather. Discovering Siargao in the depths is a sterling pursuit to grasp her secrets in a deeper way. Dedon Island Resort is another secret only the few can savor its splendor, who knows I can go there someday. Siargao is not a place time has forgotten, not anymore. It is an island slowly unfolding its mystery and beauty, on surface and in depths. And right now, the Blue Cathedral is kicking me again – I know I will head for the islands again soon, most probably with my favorite dive buddy!
Travel Notes
~ Cottage for two pax, aircon at Jadestar Lodge P 800.00
~ Roundtrip motorbike hire from GL to Pilar Beach P 800.00
~ Boat for island hopping in GL waters (6-8 pax) P 1,500.00
~ Van hire from GL to Dapa Pier for two pax P 600.00
~ Diving at Palaka Dive Center, local site including boat, dive gears and DM
(per site/per pax) P 1,800.00
Photos during surfing at Cloud 9 is courtesy of Ms. Rosie Paasa, Info ACE Focal Person of RPCO 10
There’s no other way but to be in the dark depths…
“Sorry, our flight to Busuanga is cancelled due to sunset limitation!”
That was during our last trip to Coron 17 months ago but we were unfazed, we still went for the trip few hours later aboard the Super Ferry boat. Undoubtedly, it was a memorable trip and it is always a joy to be back in one of my favorite places up north. Obviously I love Coron, it is an enchanting town I keep coming back again and again. I was simply thrilled we were back shortly than original plans.
Taking the last evening flight from CdeO, I waited seven hours for our early morning flight, to be sure from the sunset limitation. My lack of sleep had taken its toll, I doze off as we got airborne. The summer heat greeted us as we taxied the air strip to the terminal, we were favored again with the good weather! With the roads completely paved to the town, the trip was shortened to 45 minutes – the road network is almost completed, definitely a good improvement for the local economy.
Island Pleasures
Seadive Resort has been my favorite refuge but Angel had it arranged at Corn Ecolodge, a new boutique hotel right down town, accessible to any point of interest in the town. Wanting to make most of our time, we headed to Seadive to arrange for morrow’s dive trip and to get a boat for an afternoon spot hopping. Kogyu Maru is the last shipwreck in Bacuit Bay we haven’t explored, so we were thrilled it was scheduled for the morrow, with Irako Maru and East Tangat Wreck it was a perfect combination for the next day’s descent unto the depths. And we are more fortunate we had a cheaper boat fee as three foreigners (based in Kenya) joined us the afternoon hopping, letting us decide the best proverbial sites to visit.
Active marine life in Siete Pecados Marine Sanctuary
We choose Kayangan Lake/Cove, Atuwayan Beach, Skeleton Wreck and Siete Pecados – in that order. I knew visiting these spots brings heartwarming memories when I first set foot in Busuanga five years ago with DIY friends. This homecoming is my 5th year anniversary in Calamianes group, also my 5th visit to the town. I guess I never go tired of savoring its nature wonders and pleasures. I think the same sentiment is true for the three Kenyan tourists with us.
The trek and the overwhelming view in Kayangan Lake and Cove, the quiet white beach and pristine waters in Atuwayan which was all to ourselves, the rich marine life in Skeleton Wreck as well in Siete Pecados Marine Sanctuary have filled up our afternoon we barely made it to Mt. Tapyas. Angel and I agreed earlier for the climb to get a glimpse once again of our favorite hill sunset. We rushed up, the urging of the golden panorama stirred our desire to reach the summit before the sun hid from our sight – chasing our sunset! We stood there with our big smiles watching the horizon in its golden splendor until it ebbed down in the vast ocean yonder. We lingered a little longer until it gets dark waiting for the big white cross to light up, creating a warm glow in the mountain top. We descend slowly, the moon perfectly lighting up our way down the steps.
Exploring the Dark
The dive shop was already filled with people when we got there the next morning, as usual we were joined with foreigners – a Dutch and American. Boris (the Dutch) went with us with DM Rene, just perfect as we’re not crowded. We cruised for an hour for Irako Maru, the cheery sunny weather was just perfect for good visibility. We did the giant step but the water in the area was choppy, I requested for a brief rest as I got hold of the bouy line. We slowly descend, it was all hazy and there was nothing in between until we caught sight of some solid form.
Descending through the bouy line
As a kid, one of my great fear is the dark but now have dramatically outgrown it, mystery of the darkness consumes my sub-conscious. Somehow, wrecks always captivate my senses – there is that urge to rush what’s inside. We went inside penetrating the darks searching every corner with my torch, for what? Again, I got distracted I barely noticed the marine life and failed to take any photos. I was too engrossed handling my torch as we go through compartments, rooms and corners. Practically we have explored more of the vast Irako compared last time, at 37.7m we went deeper inside the wreck. Our DM signaled for the bouyline just in time that my NDL went 2 minutes.
The light at the end of the tunnel
We cruise leisurely for our next site still within southeast side of Lusong Island while having our early lunch, as our surface interval. Kogyo Maru is a new site for us , at 158m long it’s another big ship slightly larger than Irako although slightly shallower. The water was still choppy and I need to steady myself again with the bouy line until we descend slowly. Just like the others, its body is encrusted with corals with tropical fishes hovering, many specie of soft corals hanging and tangling the steel bars. Following DM Rene, we penetrated the narrow passage one after the other, Angel behind me as last in the row. We did find thousand of bags of cement turned rock hard pillows, further we found too thousand rolls of interlink wires now fossilized. We continued to explore all possible passage until we come out of a hole and swam a bit over the wreck. We ascend back at the bouy line after 40 minutes with my air still at 110 bars.
Over the shipwreck
We cruise to Tangat Island for our last site of the day, East Tangat Wreck is believed to be either a tugboat or an anti-submarine craft listing to starboard down a sandy slope. I was grateful that the water was calm already when we got there, a respite from two previous sites being rough on surface. This small wreck still has narrow passages worthy to be penetrated as conclusion for the day’s descents. Once we lost our DM and as we waited, emerged shortly from a small hole beside the wreck, Angel and I averted our attention to the opposite side and they quickly vanished in the dark. We found soft colorful corals on its sides, spotted too nudis, sea squirts and huge flatworm. The mast was also encrusted with soft and hard corals. At 40m length, it wasn’t difficult to cover the whole stretch surveying the sides, actually we circled it three times just enjoying the marine life with calm and shallow waters. We surfaced after 48 minutes with my air still at 140 bars.
Exploring a wreck is always a joy!
It was amusing as I swam back to our boat, when the crew from other boat we passed asked (in Visayan) our DM if I am Korean, laughingly I answered back I am Filipino and speak Visayan. I can’t blame him, since most if not all clients of dive shops are foreigners. We cruised back to town with happy faces! Later we treated ourselves with a sumptuous dinner at our favorite Coron Bistro.
Incessant Passion
Sometimes there is that force inside us that drives one to go frontward , we promised ourselves in October 2011 to visit the islands after five years but we made it after seventeen months, apparently our love for Coron led us for an earlier schedule. Coming to Coron is not cheap, I spent the night at the terminal lacking sleep but it wasn’t a hindrance. I got blues both in my arms due to the choppy waters but don’t mind it at all. All for the love of the depths.
Then again, I still have reasons for another visit to Coron – many reasons to explore the eastern side of the islands. May be after five years we will. May be, who knows…
The unchanging passion to protect and preserve our environment gave the urging to take action and join the force of enthusiasts for Mother Earth. We can do many things even in our own small ways to offer our time for this endeavor, we just need to be creative. I was caught up with a work meeting and weekend summer break in Siargao (pronounced as Shar-gow) Island. So on a Saturday morning while having an island hopping in General Luna, randomly I did beach clean-up in Naked Island. No other beach bummer was there, so it was all to myself as I gather every piece of trash I could find on the sand bar – sachets, wrappers, bottle caps, plastics, lids, cigarette butts, plastic cups, etc. It was a productive morning, while enjoying the quiet white beach, mild sun and surrounding waters. I gathered up a bagful of trash when I went back to our boat, after one last round of the tiny island with my friend Angel.
Later when we had our two dives in the nearby Daku Island, we randomly picked up few trash as we did rounds in the sandy slope. Literally it’s not heavy stuff but a relevant gesture in the preservation of marine world. We can make a difference in many ways, one step at a time!
Life in the Great Beyond 
You must be logged in to post a comment.