"Now more than ever do I realize that I will never be content of a sedentary life on the surface, I will always be haunted by thoughts of being drenched elsewhere"….
Although eels naturally thrived in freshwater, this specie inhabits marine waters and commonly sighted in Philippines. My sightings were usually juveniles in group wiggling as they swim in accord, incessantly stirring the sand. This specie feed on crustaceans, mollusks, worms and small fish. They appear to be harmless as they always shy away within close range, but all specie of eelfish are confirmed to be venomous! Beware then when you encounter them next time you dive.
Some of the greatest travel stories come from getting lost, or losing yourself, in a new place…
Travel is about exploration, and some of the most fulfilling exploration happens when we lose ourselves — in a place, in a culture or in an experience.
A traveler is never annoyed getting lost, for many it is more enjoyable and could lead to discoveries and more surprises. One may wander a bit, but can always find the way. You know, that innate sense of direction, the traveler’s feet are with invisible compass! Admittedly, the advent of modern technology has made navigation a lot easier and worry-free.
I have my own share of stories on going astray and expectedly I was back on course, in the end I always find my way. But what about if one is in the depths? You suddenly find yourself floating deep down alone. You desperately look for some sign – bubbles, shadows, sounds or an obscured image of another diver. You lost your buddy, your DM or separated from the group – it wasn’t your fault, of course. It is challenging indeed, I have my own stories to tell.
Few years back, I was a newbie and had no dive computer yet, I went diving with my mentor after his invitation. I was learning with my new point & shoot camera. Although the waters was bit choppy, it was a warm and sunny day. Just perfect! But the waters was all hazy and greenish, it was plankton season then. I was following my DM but carelessly stopped to take photos when we passed-by the colorful reef. Moment later, I was all alone and the poor viz wasn’t really of help. Admittedly, a surge of fear enveloped me and my heartbeat went faster, I wasn’t prepared to be lost. I waited, in case he would try to look for me and incidentally found a rare scorpion fish sitting on the reef in front of me. It was S R T A, the scorpionfish was my inspiration to do my next move sensibly. Obviously, I made it to surface and swam back safely to the boat. I can’t forget the look of my DM’s eyes and chided me for my carelessness. He was deeply worried of my safety.
Indeed, it was heart pounding but it has taught me lessons as well!
In my memorable Tubbataha 2011 dream trip, everyone was praying for good weather and our safety pilgrimage in our paradise. Everything went well, until on the third day. There wasn’t much fuss actually, but the other skipper (there were two in our trip), went back delayed. One of our companion priest was lost – everyone was back on the boat except him. He surfaced later, unwary that everyone was deathly worried for him. Some of the ladies were crying already. Just few weeks our trip, a foreign national was missing while diving in Tubbataha.
It was not heart pounding for the one lost, but everyone in his group was affected!
Just few months back, we explored Guiuan, Eastern Samar for diving. Although it wasn’t in the diving map, the costal town has its own share of promising underwater sites. The devastation from Typhoon Yolanda was undeniably obvious – surface or underwater, but it wasn’t the reason why I was lost. We went only shallow at 14 meters, sans a dive computer after mine went flooded few months earlier. This time again, the visibility was poor after a passing storm. I lost my dive buddy first, our DM signaled he would find him and I must stay stationed on my spot. So, I waited. I looked around and entertained my eyes watching the thriving marine life over a reef. A cloud of juvenile anthias over some corals and a heard of groupers on another side, still it was hazy and beyond four meters was nothing! I had enough air and I waited further, just enjoying the waters and hazy view around me. The cloudy environment has that touch of mystery to me! I was oblivious of the time as I waited. Unknowingly, they all surfaced without me – our DM lost me as well. When I surfaced, the tension was noticeable – my companions were all watching out the surface for me. My dive buddy ran out and hugged me, obviously grateful I was back safe.
I felt sorry for the aftermath, our DM got sick and aborted our second dive. I hid my disappointment but as DM, he should be in control especially on such situations. Where is the S R T A technique? Our safety relied much on our DM who was obviously unprepared!
It wasn’t heart pounding on my part but it has taught me lessons again!
My early lessons in diving taught me that we can not eliminate risks but it is my responsibility to minimize and manage possible risks and must not undermine safety. Just like other things in life, risks are inevitable and we can’t always know we’ll be alright. Sometimes, I just need to do all I can and go with the flow and let things happen. The experience undoubtedly made me a stronger person.
Have you been lost whilst diving? Just one principle to remember – relax, think and do come out of the water alive. Your companions are anxiously waiting for you. Here’s to a safe diving as we begin another diving year this 2015!
The dives for this month has been reserved for dive clean-up as I always did with my dive buddy every year. Banking on my mentor’s advocacy efforts coordinating with LGUs and other civic societies, I was looking forward to join and be part of the clean-up team. But there was no invitation and I didn’t make it.
My dive buddy suggested for Mantangale Alibuag Dive Resort (MADRI), one of my favorites and has been my home for diving. Yes, the comforts of a home awaited us.
Home. So simple but we all have what we need. Blue skies, blue seas and blue depths teeming with life.
Home. Serene, uncluttered and beautiful. I was home again last September!
NB. Photo snaps credit to Angel using Lumix Ts2 with Ikelite casing.
Sometimes we need to go somewhere, be it on surface or depths, just to be alone.
Coming to this lowly quiet town in Western Visayas was one of those quirky option after getting low cost airfare to Iloilo, its been some time since I last visited this heritage city. And being one of my favorite cities, coming again after a long lull was such pure bliss, much more for the depths! I just missed the randomness of going alone on the road.
It is far, secluded, bucolic, lowly and unexploited and in a deeper way held so much attraction to me. It is not in the diving map, diving trips in Panay is unheard of (except the expensive, touristy Boracay) at least for me. Despite challenges again, I arrived late (about 9pm) at the dive resort with my hosts eagerly waiting for me. Leaving home early to catch flight, I was more than twelve hours on the road. The desire was just too great for this surreptitious spell, my gills are utterly dry and my fins itching. The aborted dive plan in Zamboanga needs remedial compensation.
Complicated but not Hard
My DM was no less than the owner of The Divehouse, the initial plan was do an early first dive together with other two divers, but I end up alone with my DM separated from the others. I searched DM AJ’s eyes for an explanation.
“Complicated?” I echoed my answer in wonder. He smiled assuring it’s not a hard dive but somewhat complicated for the newbies, referring to other guests who were just certified recently. So we cruised going west off the town coast, catching a glimpse of the old town church partly hidden from trees. The captain dropped anchors after thirty minutes guided by GPS.
Our first descent was a site they called Mamam which was briefly described by DM AJ as with white sands, rock mounds, swim-throughs and good marine life. I jumped in to follow my DM about two minutes later. Only to find out later he was just checking if we got the right spot, but it was not so we need to abort as he signaled for up!
We made it in our second attempt, we found the shoal as we went deep at 30 meters. It was a small colony of diverse marine life: variety of tropical fish – moorish idol, damsels, midnight snappers, triggerfish, groupers, parrots, sea whips, sponge baskets, sea cucumber, variety of soft corals and more. The highlight of it was the resident school of barracudas – which I found intriguing. They didn’t quickly disappear but swam calmly away, but my DM led me to get an obstructed view behind tangles of whips and soft corals. Watching them swimming coyly among themselves as if relaxing was a wonderful sight, felt like I was in company with them in their abode! We ascend after 45 minutes with my air at 1200 psi, 33.4 meters as our deepest.
I had a long relaxing surface interval – late breakfast alone and long wait for the team with two boatful of other guests who went to Nogas Island. Cruising westward again for my last dive with DM Boy, my mind was racing for more surprises deep down expecting another rich encounter as in the first. They called the site Bao-bao, another unspoiled colony and a deep dive again. We descend through the anchor line slowly mindful of the afternoon current, and indeed it was another display of active and varied marine life. There were surgeons, butterfly, snappers, groupers, angels, banners, breams, anthias, sand perch, unicorns, sponges, soft and hard corals and more. I was amazed of the richness down the flat blue waters, somewhere down it held important dwellings of delicate and precious marine species. The highlight of which is the giant moray eel, it’s head big as coffee cup! I did spend moments just watching the eel in awe, I swear it was the biggest moray I have encountered. I went 32.5 meters as deepest after 45 minutes with 1200psi of air left. Both dives were in enriched air at 32%.
Treasures Captured
Discovering Anini-y in the depths was a real surprise, a revelation of the richness from this sleepy town in down south of Panay. Sometimes there are events that are just meant to be despite the challenges. There are people that comes our way who become instruments and inspiration for those important moments. The delayed flight, road traffic, late arrival for the transpo, costly taxi trip to the town, costly accommodation – it paid off without doubt! What I witnessed could never be put exactly in this account, it was another priceless encounter and treasures in my heart to keep.
Nogas Island, Anini-y Church, Siraan Hot Spring. Just few of reasons to be back in this town’s bosom. Most importantly, my gills and fins shall ache for its paradise beyond the surface. Alone, away, somewhere is always a rewarding one. I don’t doubt it anymore.
Travel Notes
1. The town of Anini-y is 81 kilometers from Iloilo City about two hours by land and can be reached by bus or van from Molo terminal.
2. The only diveshop in town is The Divehouse owned and operated by Mr. Boy Saldana with his friendly DMs – AJ and Mike.
3. Diving in nitrox is available at the Divehouse.
NB. Photo credits to http://www.divehouse.com
An off-beaten site, I haven’t even heard or read about the spot and we only knew we were going there when we were already on the boat for our scheduled dives.
“Where do we go today? Asking in wonder our DM, whom we just met that morning.
“To Pearl Island!” He blurted briefly with no further description about the mysterious island.
It is just one of the islets off Guiuan, Eastern Samar and coming to this town was just a detour when Biliran province was just hit by typhoon. The lone dive shop in the province cancelled our weekend dives accordingly.
The morning skies was down cast and I was crossing my fingers the waters would be considerate enough for the dives. We were fortunate, Angel found a DM on the web who accepted our last minute booking. Guiuan being hit by Yolanda (in November 2013) was still picking up pieces from the havoc and finding lodgings was also hard, but thankfully we found a home stay at Barangay Hollywood. The town is not in the diving map and definitely not yet in our list but it was more than a blessing we had what we need for that weekend getaway last July.
The waters was bit choppy and the cruise took us an hour but the aqua marine hue of the surrounding waters and the prospect of the far-off island slowly getting near was a real treat to perk us up. But seeing the place as we step on its shores was heart-rending – total wreckage was overwhelming. The three white dogs and the caretaker welcomed us warmly, enough to soothe the pain I felt watching the miserable state of the station.
The sky was still downcast and the visibility was not favorable but hoping for surprises in our descents, we geared up leisurely for our first dive – it was a shore entry but somewhat tricky as the viz was hazy. The plan was to circle the islet swimming with the current hoping to cover the whole sanctuary. There were variety of soft and hard corals with juvenile fishes, I needed to be more keen for critters. But what I saw was more wreckage – uprooted talisay tree, broken coco trees, galvanized roofings, rubbles and more. There was more debris than marine life as we went around. Inspecting closely a crevice, I found a lobster, its antlers swaying slowly outside the hole. She stood her ground as I came a bit closer beckoning Angel. It was a rare find and quite a surprise, it was my first sighting of a big lobster! We roamed around over a coral but in a twist of fate, I was separated from Angel and our DM, the obscure viz was not really a help. I surfaced about 15 minutes later than them….
For sure, there was still more to explore down but the DM beg-off for the second dive, it would be rude to demand from him as he was feeling sick.
The devastation of the town was fading physically barely noticeable in one glance but visiting the island could pierce one’s heart, the BFAR building was totally destroyed, rows of concrete beds for the pearl culture was empty and useless, coconuts and talisay trees uprooted. It is almost bare to the ground. The lash of the unforgiving typhoon was evident even underwater. Exactly the small islet was an exact show window of the Yolanda devastation.
Perhaps, there will be another chance to visit Guiuan, by that time the town is booming & blooming and the typhoon destruction will only be a faint memory.
Travel Notes
1. Pearl Island (aka Kantican Island) is an experimental station of Bureau of Fisheries & Aquatic Resources (BFAR) on pearl culture, at the same time a protected marine sanctuary. It caters as venue of seminars, training and workshops of the province. It was established and a gem during Marcos era.
2. There is no commercial diveshop at the moment but can book diving services from a local DM. Bringing own gears would be advantageous.
3. Aircon vans from Tacloban to Guiuan (and vice versa) have daily regular trips every hour, travel time is two hours.
4. There are more than 10 dive sites in Eastern Samar including Homonhon Island.
Disclosure
I savor few moments on the swing under the talisay tree (survivor after the typhoon) just before we left the island. Despite the devastation, there still a little source of simple joy for a sad soul. Angel was worried to death when he surfaced and cant find me.
Life in the Great Beyond 
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