Getting Lost: Just Add Water!

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Getting lost is always an experience for good reasons – surface or in the depths!

Some of the greatest travel stories come from getting lost, or losing yourself, in a new place…

Travel is about exploration, and some of the most fulfilling exploration happens when we lose ourselves — in a place, in a culture or in an experience.

A traveler is never annoyed getting lost, for many it is more enjoyable and could lead to discoveries and more surprises. One may wander a bit, but can always find the way. You know, that innate sense of direction, the traveler’s feet are with invisible compass! Admittedly, the advent of modern technology has made navigation a lot easier and worry-free.

I have my own share of stories on going astray and expectedly I was back on course, in the end I always find my way. But what about if one is in the depths? You suddenly find yourself floating deep down alone. You desperately look for some sign – bubbles, shadows, sounds or an obscured image of another diver. You lost your buddy, your DM or separated from the group – it wasn’t your fault, of course. It is challenging indeed, I have my own stories to tell.

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This elusive scorpion fish is right in front of me! The plankton season triggered the greenish hazy visibility.

Few years back, I was a newbie and had no dive computer yet, I went diving with my mentor after his invitation. I was learning with my new point & shoot camera. Although the waters was bit choppy, it was a warm and sunny day. Just perfect! But the waters was all hazy and greenish, it was plankton season then. I was following my DM but carelessly stopped to take photos when we passed-by the colorful reef. Moment later, I was all alone and the poor viz wasn’t really of help. Admittedly, a surge of fear enveloped me and my heartbeat went faster, I wasn’t prepared to be lost. I waited, in case he would try to look for me and incidentally found a rare scorpion fish sitting on the reef in front of me. It was S R T A, the scorpionfish was my inspiration to do my next move sensibly. Obviously, I made it to surface and swam back safely to the boat. I can’t forget the look of my DM’s eyes and chided me for my carelessness. He was deeply worried of my safety.

Indeed, it was heart pounding but it has taught me lessons as well!

In my memorable Tubbataha 2011 dream trip, everyone was praying for good weather and our safety pilgrimage in our paradise. Everything went well, until on the third day. There wasn’t much fuss actually, but the other skipper (there were two in our trip), went back delayed. One of our companion priest was lost – everyone was back on the boat except him. He surfaced later, unwary that everyone was deathly worried for him. Some of the ladies were crying already. Just few weeks our trip, a foreign national was missing while diving in Tubbataha.

It was not heart pounding for the one lost, but everyone in his group was affected!

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Clouding over the reef are juvenile fish – a sight to behold whilst waiting for my DM. Beyond four meters was zero visibility

Just few months back, we explored Guiuan, Eastern Samar for diving. Although it wasn’t in the diving map, the costal town has its own share of promising underwater sites. The devastation from Typhoon Yolanda was undeniably obvious – surface or underwater, but it wasn’t the reason why I was lost. We went only shallow at 14 meters, sans a dive computer after mine went flooded few months earlier. This time again, the visibility was poor after a passing storm. I lost my dive buddy first, our DM signaled he would find him and I must stay stationed on my spot. So, I waited. I looked around and entertained my eyes watching the thriving marine life over a reef. A cloud of juvenile anthias over some corals and a heard of groupers on another side, still it was hazy and beyond four meters was nothing! I had enough air and I waited further, just enjoying the waters and hazy view around me. The cloudy environment has that touch of mystery to me! I was oblivious of the time as I waited. Unknowingly, they all surfaced without me – our DM lost me as well. When I surfaced, the tension was noticeable – my companions were all watching out the surface for me. My dive buddy ran out and hugged me, obviously grateful I was back safe.

I felt sorry for the aftermath, our DM got sick and aborted our second dive. I hid my disappointment but as DM, he should be in control especially on such situations. Where is the S R T A technique? Our safety relied much on our DM who was obviously unprepared!

It wasn’t heart pounding on my part but it has taught me lessons again!

My early lessons in diving taught me that we can not eliminate risks but it is my responsibility to minimize and manage possible risks and must not undermine safety. Just like other things in life, risks are inevitable and we can’t always know we’ll be alright. Sometimes, I just need to do all I can and go with the flow and let things happen. The experience undoubtedly made me a stronger person.

Have you been lost whilst diving? Just one principle to remember – relax, think and do come out of the water alive. Your companions are anxiously waiting for you. Here’s to a safe diving as we begin another diving year this 2015!

See You in September!

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The dives for this month has been reserved for dive clean-up as I always did with my dive buddy every year.  Banking on my mentor’s advocacy efforts coordinating with LGUs and other civic societies, I was looking forward to join and be part of the clean-up team. But there was no invitation and I didn’t make it.

My dive buddy suggested for Mantangale Alibuag Dive Resort (MADRI), one of my favorites and has been my home for diving. Yes, the comforts of a home awaited us.

Home.  So simple but we all have what we need. Blue skies, blue seas and blue depths teeming with life.

Home.  Serene, uncluttered and beautiful. I was home again last September!

NB. Photo snaps credit to Angel using Lumix Ts2 with Ikelite casing.

Deep in Anini-y!

Sometimes we need to go somewhere, be it on surface or depths,  just to be alone.

Coming to this lowly quiet town in Western Visayas was one of those quirky option after getting low cost airfare to Iloilo, its been some time since I last visited this heritage city.  And being one of my favorite cities, coming again after a long lull was such pure bliss, much more for the depths! I just missed the randomness of going alone on the road.

It is far, secluded, bucolic, lowly and unexploited and in a deeper way held so much attraction to me. It is not in the diving map, diving trips in Panay is unheard of (except the expensive, touristy Boracay) at least for me. Despite challenges again, I arrived late (about 9pm) at the dive resort with my hosts eagerly waiting for me. Leaving home early to catch flight, I was more than twelve hours on the road. The desire was just too great for this surreptitious spell, my gills are utterly dry and my fins itching. The aborted dive plan in Zamboanga needs remedial compensation.

Complicated but not Hard

My DM was no less than the owner of The Divehouse, the initial plan was do an early first dive together with other two divers, but I end up alone with my DM separated from the others. I searched DM AJ’s eyes for an explanation.

“Complicated?” I echoed my answer in wonder. He smiled assuring it’s not a hard dive but somewhat complicated for the newbies, referring to other guests who were just certified recently. So we cruised going west off the town coast, catching a glimpse of the old town church partly hidden from trees. The captain dropped anchors after thirty minutes guided by GPS.

Our first descent was a site they called Mamam which was briefly described by DM AJ as with white sands, rock mounds, swim-throughs and good marine life. I jumped in to follow my DM about two minutes later. Only to find out later he was just checking if we got the right spot, but it was not so we need to abort as he signaled for up!

We made it in our second attempt, we found the shoal as we went deep at 30 meters. It was a small colony of diverse marine life: variety of tropical fish – moorish idol, damsels, midnight snappers, triggerfish, groupers, parrots, sea whips, sponge baskets, sea cucumber, variety of soft corals and more. The highlight of it was the resident school of barracudas – which I found intriguing. They didn’t quickly disappear but swam calmly away, but my DM led me to get an obstructed view behind tangles of whips and soft corals. Watching them swimming coyly among themselves as if relaxing was a wonderful sight, felt like I was in company with them in their abode! We ascend after 45 minutes with my air at 1200 psi, 33.4 meters as our deepest.

I had a long relaxing surface interval – late breakfast alone and long wait for the team with two boatful of other guests who went to Nogas Island. Cruising westward again for my last dive with DM Boy, my mind was racing for more surprises deep down expecting another rich encounter as in the first. They called the site Bao-bao, another unspoiled colony and a deep dive again. We descend through the anchor line slowly mindful of the afternoon current, and indeed it was another display of active and varied marine life. There were surgeons, butterfly, snappers, groupers, angels, banners, breams, anthias, sand perch, unicorns, sponges, soft and hard corals and more. I was amazed of the richness down the flat blue waters, somewhere down it held important dwellings of delicate and precious marine species. The highlight of which is the giant moray eel, it’s head big as coffee cup! I did spend moments just watching the eel in awe, I swear it was the biggest moray I have encountered. I went 32.5 meters as deepest after 45 minutes with 1200psi of air left.  Both dives were in enriched air at 32%.

Treasures Captured

Discovering Anini-y in the depths was a real surprise, a revelation of the richness from this sleepy town in down south of Panay. Sometimes there are events that are just meant to be despite the challenges. There are people that comes our way who become instruments and inspiration for those important moments. The delayed flight, road traffic, late arrival for the transpo, costly taxi trip to the town, costly accommodation – it paid off without doubt! What I witnessed could never be put exactly in this account, it was another priceless encounter and treasures in my heart to keep.

Nogas Island, Anini-y  Church, Siraan Hot Spring.  Just few of reasons to be back in this town’s bosom.  Most importantly, my gills and fins shall ache for its paradise beyond the surface.  Alone, away, somewhere is always a rewarding one. I don’t doubt it anymore.

Travel Notes

1. The town of Anini-y is 81 kilometers from Iloilo City about two hours by land and can be reached by bus or van from Molo terminal.
2. The only diveshop in town is The Divehouse owned and operated by Mr. Boy Saldana with his friendly DMs – AJ and Mike.
3.  Diving in nitrox is available at the Divehouse.

NB. Photo credits to http://www.divehouse.com

Diving in Pearl Island

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Pearl Island before destruction from Typhoon Yolanda. Photo credits to http://www.fotocommunity.de von Herr Martin Schaublin. Danke viel mals!

An off-beaten site, I haven’t even heard or read about the spot and we only knew we were going there when we were already on the boat for our scheduled dives.

“Where do we go today? Asking in wonder our DM, whom we just met that morning.
“To Pearl Island!” He blurted briefly with no further description about the mysterious island.

It is just one of the islets off Guiuan, Eastern Samar and coming to this town was just a detour when Biliran province was just hit by typhoon. The lone dive shop in the province cancelled our weekend dives accordingly.

The morning skies was down cast and I was crossing my fingers the waters would be considerate enough for the dives. We were fortunate, Angel found a DM on the web who accepted our last minute booking. Guiuan being hit by Yolanda (in November 2013) was still picking up pieces from the havoc and finding lodgings was also hard, but thankfully we found a home stay at Barangay Hollywood. The town is not in the diving map and definitely not yet in our list but it was more than a blessing we had what we need for that weekend getaway last July.

The waters was bit choppy and the cruise took us an hour but the aqua marine hue of the surrounding waters and the prospect of the far-off island slowly getting near was a real treat to perk us up. But seeing the place as we step on its shores was heart-rending – total wreckage was overwhelming. The three white dogs and the caretaker welcomed us warmly, enough to soothe the pain I felt watching the miserable state of the station.

The sky was still downcast and the visibility was not favorable but hoping for surprises in our descents, we geared up leisurely for our first dive – it was a shore entry but somewhat tricky as the viz was hazy. The plan was to circle the islet swimming with the current hoping to cover the whole sanctuary. There were variety of soft and hard corals with juvenile fishes, I needed to be more keen for critters. But what I saw was more wreckage – uprooted talisay tree, broken coco trees, galvanized roofings, rubbles and more. There was more debris than marine life as we went around. Inspecting closely a crevice, I found a lobster, its antlers swaying slowly outside the hole. She stood her ground as I came a bit closer beckoning Angel. It was a rare find and quite a surprise, it was my first sighting of a big lobster! We roamed around over a coral but in a twist of fate, I was separated from Angel and our DM, the obscure viz was not really a help. I surfaced about 15 minutes later than them….

For sure, there was still more to explore down but the DM beg-off for the second dive, it would be rude to demand from him as he was feeling sick.

The devastation of the town was fading physically barely noticeable in one glance but visiting the island could pierce one’s heart, the BFAR building was totally destroyed, rows of concrete beds for the pearl culture was empty and useless, coconuts and talisay trees uprooted. It is almost bare to the ground. The lash of the unforgiving typhoon was evident even underwater. Exactly the small islet was an exact show window of the Yolanda devastation.

Perhaps, there will be another chance to visit Guiuan, by that time the town is booming & blooming and the typhoon destruction will only be a faint memory.

Travel Notes

1. Pearl Island (aka Kantican Island) is an experimental station of Bureau of Fisheries & Aquatic Resources (BFAR) on pearl culture, at the same time a protected marine sanctuary. It caters as venue of seminars, training and workshops of the province. It was established and a gem during Marcos era.
2. There is no commercial diveshop at the moment but can book diving services from a local DM. Bringing own gears would be advantageous.
3. Aircon vans from Tacloban to Guiuan (and vice versa) have daily regular trips every hour, travel time is two hours.
4. There are more than 10 dive sites in Eastern Samar including Homonhon Island.

Disclosure

I savor few moments on the swing under the talisay tree (survivor after the typhoon) just before we left the island. Despite the devastation, there still a little source of simple joy for a sad soul. Angel was worried to death when he surfaced and cant find me.

Tales from Romblon

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The mystical Blue Hole in San Agustin, Tablas, Romblon

It’s been awhile since my last descent – twenty weeks to be exact, for some reasons, good reasons that is. In my own terms it was fundamental and non-negotiable. Yet my undying admiration for the depths never wane a bit. I was fighting my own demons and trying to fulfill my mission as I simply understood it. I was painstakingly waiting for my next dive trip, obviously I was like a fish out of water!

The merry month of May was just apt, and coming to Romblon was just fitting – it is off-beaten for diving and undoubtedly a good recompense for the abstinence. Angel and I were utterly intrigued with Blue Hole, actually he has been suggesting for a hop to these group of islands for some time.

Secrets No More

Indeed, this quiet capital is too good in keeping its secrets. Arriving in early dawn, there was enough time to get some sleep after a long haul – it was a plane, bus, boat rides for me starting my trip in the wee hours from CdeO. The short nap was a good way to start and we needed enough rest for the day’s events.

After a relaxing breakfast, we head for Three – Ps Holiday & Dive Resort at Barangay Lonos, only to find out later that we have to get back at the town, our dive boat was waiting at the pier just near our lodge! We left late as planned, aside from boat preparations our DM was not feeling well. But we were blessed with a good weather, sunny skies and calm blue waters graced us as we cruise for the site in San Agustin, somewhere at north western end of Tablas. Verdant hills and fields and few patches of white beach were in the horizon as we sailed on. We caught sight of two lighthouses, the last one was near in our dive site. We started to gear up as we approached and asked if we could climb up to the lighthouse. DM Peter assured we can during the surface interval, his wife Anne was too encouraging feeling proud as a local.

I was wondering if a check-out dive would be necessary for me being a deep dive, I was thinking of ear squeeze for sure, again it’s been twenty weeks. Cavern diving is too alluring and it’s not new for me and Angel, the mystery of the dark always held surprises and we found that very interesting. The penetration is always enticing! I was dying for the depths and the smell of sea waters and gears just heighten the thrill. One big step to the waters and we all descend swimming shortly near a wall until we got to the hole, a big wide dark hole but never scary. We went down lighting our torch, there were no fish life or maybe I missed them distracted by its mystery, until we got to the exit unto a sandy slope. It wasn’t long enough to fill my curiosity, which left me wondering the occurrence of the sink hole. The environs were decorated with variety of soft and hard corals, spirals, feather stars, sea ferns/grasses, nudis, anemones, juvenile fishes and more. It was all healthy until we got to a colony of crown of thorns – so many scattered over the corals. Going further, we found more colorful corals and juvenile fishes hovering over. It was all beautiful I can’t put it in words – you know it’s something that sent a flutter in your heart. Our safety stop was spent over a coral area going around until we ascend near the boat after 54 minutes, our deepest at 37.5 meters.

“You have to swim to the shore, the boat cannot get near due to the corals.” DM Peter quipped when we asked his permission for the lighthouse. Well, we did swim but I need to hold Angel’s hand, to be sure he won’t leave me behind. Our surface interval was spent exploring Punta Gorda – climbing the hill, going around the lighthouse (old one is beside the new) but felt sorry we can’t climb. The place was desolate, but the lighthouse is perfectly functioning – it is one of major lighthouse in the country. We found goats grazing in the surrounding foliage and boats on the shore, for sure there’s a community offshore. We sat on the shore seeking shed from a tree watching the horizons until our DM summoned for our return, we all swam together with his wife back to the boat. Another secret uncovered!

There is something unsettling with the hole, yet when DM Peter asked if we want to do again the Blue Hole, we both opted for another site. Our second descent was still at Punta Gorda exploring a wall, decorated with barrel sponges, knotted fan, sea fans, feather stars, sea ferns, table corals, brain corals, maze corals and anemones. DM Peter examined closely a large gorgonian and found a bargibanti pygmy – so minute I could hardly see it. I caught sight of a clam, some nudis and obscurely a white tip, which disappeared quickly. Again, the environs were colorful and appeared healthy, I guess the area is seldom visited by divers and disturbances are all too minimal. We had our safety stop on a wide coral area going around again in the shallows until we ascend after 67 minutes. Although I refused to be bothered, I noticed earlier that my precious D4 went dead and appeared flooded.

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On the wall, were barrel sponges, feather stars, sea ferns and more critters

We sailed back to town, wanting to speed the cruise. We need to explore one more secret – the old Fort San Andres and watch the sunset on the hill. Indeed, we did watch the setting sun unwinding on the tiny park near the fort. It was wonderful to cap the day with the calming sight of the golden horizon. But our day did not end there – we had dinner in an Italian deli and had foccacia, home made pasta with meat balls plus fruit shakes. It was more than enough and finished our day with a walk at the old town district. It was exhausting but had lot of discoveries in just twelve hours or so.

More Secrets

The next day, we made the few hours in Romblon productive and unraveled more secrets. Before leaving downtown, we paid church visit in Saint Joseph Church built in 1727, perhaps one of the oldest church in the country. It was evident in the town the colonial Spanish influence – the old church, old fort, old town square, old houses and the historic Spanish bridge in the old town district.

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The white sandbar at Bonbon Beach almost reaching Bangug Island

We headed south of town until Apunan Point in Agpanabat, Angel just wanted to see another lighthouse. The caretaker was all too friendly and allowed us for a climb, the 75 feet structure standing proudly with its old counterpart just few meters away. We had a breathtaking view before us – the vast ocean with sunny blue skies! We looked over a string of white beaches we passed from Barangay Palje to Lonos – Talipasak Beach, Marble Beach, San Pedro Beach, Tiamban Beach until Bonbon Beach. The last one is with a sand bar gleaming under the sun, with its end near Bangug Island. There were no crowds, these are the kind that is worthy lounging the whole day – pure and relaxing. Indeed, Romblon is more than just marbles as it has been originally known.

The breathtaking view from Punta Apunan lighthouse!
The breathtaking view from Punta Apunan lighthouse!

Notes of Inspiration

Our DM said, we were lucky there was no current when we got at Blue Hole, there were times when penetration is not possible, surge of current will push divers up not allowing entry. Our experience was never tricky, we all went fluidly and the waters cooperated with us. The God of the Seas was with us again all throughout!

Tim Scott said that there is great intimacy in diving with another human being. Getting back in the waters with my favorite dive buddy was sheer joy. Diving with someone who is a good friend and someone you trust brings shared joy, undoubtedly a reinforcement of the friendship and closeness above water. It was such a reassuring gesture of shared belief and admiration of the depths. The Blue Hole encounter is another mystical moments shared with my best dive buddy.

Travel Notes:

1. We stayed at Park Bay Mansion – P 750.00 for AC room good for two persons
2. Tricycle can be hired for town tours, we paid P 500.00 round trip as far as Apunan Point in Barangay Agpanabat
3. There are two dive resort in the island, Three – Ps is more convenient if you stay in Romblon town. Diving within the island is cheaper, but if you head for Blue Hole it will cost more due to additional cost for boat rentals going to the site which is one hour away.
4. Word of caution – if your dive computer needs battery replacement, don’t use it underwater. Never!